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kylej posted:Nice import. Thanks Im living in Japan right now unfortunately I cant take it back with me to the states.
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Jul 1, 2012 03:11
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Kolta posted:Better get cross bars for that roof rack. My dealer should be getting them shipped in within a few days. Imperador do Brasil posted:Why didn't you sell your Si privately? I know several people including myself who'd have snapped it up, if you lived in PA. I live in Harrisburg, I had quite a few "offers" to buy it over the past week or so but most flaked. Also, I got a smokin trade-in deal for it, so as sad as I was to trade it in, I was happy to get what I got for it at the dealership. Look for it to pop up on Craigslist soon. They said they would try advertising there first.
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Jul 1, 2012 04:16
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urakawa posted:Thanks Im living in Japan right now unfortunately I cant take it back with me to the states. How much did you pay? you could probably sell it to a Canadian and throw it on a boat for a decent profit.
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Jul 1, 2012 09:46
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Powershift posted:How much did you pay? you could probably sell it to a Canadian and throw it on a boat for a decent profit. Paid under 5 grand all in. I do plan to take care of it while I'm here so we'll see how it turns out. I'm pretty excited for the DCCD  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHZSgXXC2x8
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Jul 1, 2012 14:16
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Amandyke posted:Not sure what you mean. It'd be no different if it was a cable clutch and the cable broke... You'd just have to shift without the clutch. I was wondering because back when I got my clutch replaced, I'm pretty sure they forgot to bleed the clutch. Felt like brakes that hadn't been bled, except I could still shift. It was just about a 10-15 pound push at the very end of travel after absolutely no resistance the rest of the way. I'm surprised that it came back out, that's how little resistance there was up to that point.
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Jul 1, 2012 22:27
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urakawa posted:Paid under 5 grand all in. I do plan to take care of it while I'm here so we'll see how it turns out. I'm pretty excited for the DCCD ...I wonder if I could convert it to LHD with my Outback Sport parts? 
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Jul 1, 2012 22:31
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It would be easier to convert your OBS to v3 sti.
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Jul 1, 2012 22:46
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One of my friends has 2004 Forester and he's been having trouble with it over-heating randomly, so I figured I'd ask you guys for any ideas. He recently moved from Flagstaff (Mountains) to Phoenix (big city), and it would over-heat on his drives down from Flagstaff, but it seems to happen randomly around town in Phoenix. He says it corresponds with acceleration, like he'll accelerate and the temp will rise and stop when he takes his foot off the gas. His radiator is nice and clean so its not leaking coolant, he has new hoses, his fans run fine, and his thermometer seems fine as well. Turning on the AC/Heat doesn't seem to have any affect on the rising temps. Might not be a big deal since its only happened once since he moved down, but I figured I'd ask around for him.
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Jul 2, 2012 05:16
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Iron Lung posted:One of my friends has 2004 Forester and he's been having trouble with it over-heating randomly, so I figured I'd ask you guys for any ideas. He recently moved from Flagstaff (Mountains) to Phoenix (big city), and it would over-heat on his drives down from Flagstaff, but it seems to happen randomly around town in Phoenix. He says it corresponds with acceleration, like he'll accelerate and the temp will rise and stop when he takes his foot off the gas. Headgasket leak?
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Jul 2, 2012 05:37
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Faerunner posted:Headgasket leak? He actually said he'd read about that, hoping thats not the issue so he wont have to do a re-build. If he takes it to a Subaru shop will they be able to tell that easily, or will they have to rip everything apart?
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Jul 2, 2012 06:36
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Is it consuming coolant or dripping anywhere? With a headgasket leak or bad radiator cap it will puke out coolant under load. If not I would start by replacing the thermostat (and use the OEM one).
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Jul 2, 2012 06:48
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The left front brake on my GF8 (single-pot caliper) started binding up really badly, to the point of doing an impression of a very badly warped disc. Suspecting it was just old and shitted up and having priced reconditioned calipers, I picked up a set of used 2-pot calipers from a GC8 Turbo 2000 (aka WRX) with ghetto drilled and slotted discs. Having put it on, the juddering is gone, but the same wheel is still binding, just less.  Points to Subaru for using banjo bolts like a bike though, as opposed to the screw-in lines I had to struggle with on the BMW. Makes juggling an iron caliper while attaching the line so much easier. I'm suspecting it was a case of an ageing caliper plus the lovely, pointless, idiotic hill-holder (why, oh why, Subaru?) failing to release, especially as with the original calipers it would get worse if you flung the car around a tight corner with some brake on. Has anyone done the hill-holder delete on a "Classic"? I've found a Subaru part number (627002101) on the interwebs for a t-piece that's supposed to eliminate the holder valve entirely, as apparently it can come on even if the actuating cable is disconnected. Would be useful to know if that's the correct number, also if anyone knows what size/dimensions t-piece I need, I suspect I can save about £20 buying an identical "t" from anyone other than Subaru.
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Jul 2, 2012 09:08
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Iron Lung posted:He actually said he'd read about that, hoping thats not the issue so he wont have to do a re-build. If he takes it to a Subaru shop will they be able to tell that easily, or will they have to rip everything apart? He can get a compression test done and it doesn't need to be done at the stealership.
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Jul 2, 2012 13:20
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So I haven't owned my new Impreza for more than 48 hours and miraculously there is a huge scratch in my beautiful rim. Never scratched or curbed a rim in my life, I'm wondering if it was there before I even left the dealership.
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Jul 2, 2012 13:22
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You own a Subaru. Now is not the time to worry about paint imperfections.
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Jul 2, 2012 13:47
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kylej posted:You own a Subaru. Now is not the time to worry about paint imperfections. Yeah, worry about head gaskets, transmissions, rust, exploding turbos, flapping bodywork, fuel bills, etc. Once you've done that you can worry about paint imperfections. 
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Jul 2, 2012 13:52
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Saga posted:The left front brake on my GF8 (single-pot caliper) started binding up really badly, to the point of doing an impression of a very badly warped disc. Suspecting it was just old and shitted up and having priced reconditioned calipers, I picked up a set of used 2-pot calipers from a GC8 Turbo 2000 (aka WRX) with ghetto drilled and slotted discs. Did you take a look at the brake hose? Sometimes they fail internally. The master cylinder has the force to push the fluid through the hose, but returning is a different story.
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Jul 2, 2012 13:59
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Saga posted:Yeah, worry about head gaskets, transmissions, rust, exploding turbos, flapping bodywork, fuel bills, etc. Once you've done that you can worry about paint imperfections. I have dealt with all of these things and I wouldn't have it any other way. Subaru 4 lyfe 
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Jul 2, 2012 14:05
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Sockington posted:Did you take a look at the brake hose? Sometimes they fail internally. The master cylinder has the force to push the fluid through the hose, but returning is a different story. Not internally. It's just the short length of soft hose between the bracket on the knuckle and the caliper right? Will have a look at it.
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Jul 2, 2012 15:45
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 Got myself a 09 WRX today. Off to the DMV tomorrow!
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Jul 2, 2012 23:48
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Saga posted:Yeah, worry about head gaskets, transmissions, rust, exploding turbos, flapping bodywork, fuel bills, etc. Once you've done that you can worry about paint imperfections. Don't forget tires! Lots and lots of tires!
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Jul 3, 2012 00:53
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Got myself a 09 WRX today. Off to the tuner tomorrow! Fixed that for you.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:42
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I am reading on NASIOC that some people have replaced 3 of 4 rod bearings through the oil pan on EJ205s in 02s. That you just cant access #1 because of webbing in the block. Confirm/Deny? Yes I am precisely aware of the quality of this repair, thank you.
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Jul 3, 2012 04:40
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no way in hell. well, maybe if you had a really fine tooth ratchet and didn't torque the bolts back to spec.
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Jul 3, 2012 04:48
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I want to know who those people are so I never buy a 2L WRX from them.
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Jul 3, 2012 04:52
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jamal posted:no way in hell.  And yea I dont expect it to last mroe than 5000 miles or so but given the hardness of most cranks, and the lightness of the knock I think it'll be ok for a very short while. In the mean time I can make some decisions about what to do. Right now craigslist is lookin like a huge loss as is. I put fresh filter/15w-40/lucas in there as soon as I could get to the nearest walmart and then babied it the 30 miles home and parked it. Used a box and a trashbag as an oil catch pan. Gotta love the ease of WRX oil changes.
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Jul 3, 2012 14:16
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Lord Gaga posted:And yea I dont expect it to last mroe than 5000 miles or so but given the hardness of most cranks, and the lightness of the knock I think it'll be ok for a very short while. In the mean time I can make some decisions about what to do. Right now craigslist is lookin like a huge loss as is. I put fresh filter/15w-40/lucas in there as soon as I could get to the nearest walmart and then babied it the 30 miles home and parked it. Used a box and a trashbag as an oil catch pan. Gotta love the ease of WRX oil changes. It's actually not entirely about getting new bearings into the engine when you're trying to repair rod knock. The shaved off bearing material needs to be completely purged from the engine, especially the oil cooler, as any remnants in the motor will work their way into your new bearing surfaces and cause more problems. I've got no doubt that those people were able to replace those bearings. But they've got no business driving a performance vehicle if that's the sort of repair they perform. I'd expect to hear that from some ricer kid driving around in his b16 swapped civic. Sure he swapped the bearings, but what he doesn't tell you is how spectacularly it failed 3 months down the road.
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Jul 3, 2012 15:25
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I adequately understand surface failure mechanisms including induced stress concentrations, the effect of surface finish on fatigue life, effect of polishing on tolerances, etc.
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Jul 4, 2012 03:03
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Occasionally my son will post pictures from work. Here is one of a new car getting it's first oil change.
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Jul 4, 2012 14:45
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That's nothin'. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/June-2-2012.php It is cool how much higher the OCIs are for the new engines though. Maybe Subaru finally fixed whatever issue forced the OCI to be low, between their specification of 0w20 and the completely new motor.
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Jul 4, 2012 15:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo I know this isn't Subaru related but since we're on the topic of oil changes...
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Jul 4, 2012 16:07
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Kolta posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo Haha, you have no idea. Check out my Subaru oil fun...
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Jul 4, 2012 17:17
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Sockington posted:Haha, you have no idea. Check out my Subaru oil fun... Wow dude 
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Jul 5, 2012 01:54
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Kolta posted:Wow dude I tried to take the edge off at the time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PgkfsGEZAY
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Jul 5, 2012 02:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I tried to take the edge off at the time.  Nice one.
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Jul 5, 2012 04:09
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Motherfucker! Remember my concern about the rear caliper brackets? Well, I went to do the FRONT brakes today. The car failed inspection due to the front pads starting to separate from their back plate. So I ordered a set of stoptechs and centric rotors from tirerack on Sunday. I got the stuff today and went to do the brakes. I treated all the bolts real good and let them sit for about an hour before I started. First caliper bolt was a little tough, but it snapped free. The lower caliber bolt on the passenger side. Starting to twist, oh this doesn't feel good SNAP!. Sigh, so I resign myself to getting a new caliper bracket if I can't easily extract the bolt. I do the drivers side and it comes apart with little drama. I go back to the passenger side and start backing off the rotor, expecting the bracket to come with it. Hmm, no, it's not budging. Oh, look, I can rotate the bracket on the stuck bolt. Goddamnit, that means it's not stuck on the caliper bracket, but the bolt loving sized in the non-threaded hole in the knuckle. I heat it. I pound on it. Over and over for about an hour and a half. Nothing. If I can just get the goddamn bolt out of that loving hole, I can finish up this brake job in about 20 minutes. I cannot believe it is seized so badly in that hole that I can't punch it out with a good hammer blow or have it pop out by pounding on the bracket. I guess I'm going to go to Lowes tomorrow and get the most badass drill bit I can and drill the fucker out.
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Jul 6, 2012 03:31
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So I am thinking about buying a 2001 Subaru Legacy B4 RSK - It's got the tiptronic gearbox. Tell me about this car, gentlemen. Tell me amazing things. Tell me terrible things.
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Jul 6, 2012 14:39
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Oh hey look what I bought This'll go well with my black one! It's a 2002 2.5TS with 123,000 KM, exact same year/make mine is. Only thing is the short block had rod-knock so they scrapped it, but it comes with two NEW(!!!) heads, straight from factory with only 2,000 KM on it. 5 speed manual, full title, everything is there except an exhaust and short block. I'm thinking of either flipping it or turning it into a stage-rally car.. Oh yeah I got it all for $450.
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Jul 7, 2012 02:32
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450 is a steal good job. I'd go with the stage-rally idea 100%.
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Jul 7, 2012 02:41
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Since I'm buying a new Subaru tomorrow morning, I may have a completely rebuilt 2.5TS shortblock from Outfront Motorsports sitting in my garage. Maybe we could work something out.
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Jul 7, 2012 02:45
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