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ijyt posted:It's more of this kind of thing, a look I think he is trying to avoid.
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Jul 3, 2012 10:44
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Just bought two black lava thingies from Maelstorm Games and instead of paying for shipping I tossed in Commissar Yarrick and got free shipping! Always wanted him! 
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Jul 3, 2012 10:50
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Maelstrom is great for a lot of things! Well, unless you're in the southern hemisphere.  When they had that sale going, a mate of mine managed to snag three Vendettas for the price of one. No lie!
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Jul 3, 2012 12:30
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ijyt posted:It's more of this kind of thing, a look I think he is trying to avoid. I know what a dreadknight looks like, I didn't mean that, perhapse I should be more clear. I have only seen the model in person once, in a display case, so I am not familiar with the model's overall mass and esthetic enough to look at a small part of the overall conversion to give my final opinion. I get the baby thing, and it was a comical observation when the kit first came out. That said, the model brought back memories of toys I played with as a kid (exo-squad) and some cool movie moments and brought it all to 40k. Pierzak posted:Not grimdark enough. Chop off arms and legs to use for conversion. Imagine the head being chopped off the guy and the baby had hydrolic control over the man's body and used it to wield a large bastard sword. Now imagine the baby using his rig to battle a fully grown veteran Viking in full war garb, while they are both screaming. That's what the dreadknight is to me. 
WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jul 3, 2012 |
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Jul 3, 2012 13:14
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will blow your mind.
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Sculpting masters, what is the best way to make a ragged cloak/cape? It will be fairly large and flowing out of some shoulderpads and looped over an outstretched arm. I have green and grey stuff at my disposal, and some thin wire if an armature is best used, but not sure where to start. Is rolling out a thin sheet of putty first then draping it on the model better, or maybe making it in strips and then blending the strips together (so not working with such a large portion at once)?
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Jul 3, 2012 14:49
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http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/06/how-to-sculpt-greenstuff-cloaks-and.html This is a decent article.
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Jul 3, 2012 15:05
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Thanks for the tutorial WOM, it's exactly what I needed right now.
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Jul 3, 2012 15:27
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I know what a dreadknight looks like, I didn't mean that, perhapse I should be more clear. I kind of clocked on to what you meant about 5 minutes after I posted, my bad. In other news, does anyone know where (in the UK) I can buy recessed bases the same size of the HE ones? I want to make some swamp bars with water effects but the idea of drilling, cutting, sanding and waterproofing 100+ bases is as little daunting.
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Jul 3, 2012 16:06
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I'm starting to like the idea more and more of casting my own terrain for columns, brick walls and the like. I'm looking over Hirst Arts and it doesn't seem too hard to do. Does anyone here do the same? I thought I saw one casting tutorial done by a goon here.
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Jul 3, 2012 17:05
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Either is good, really, but it might require more room if you want (most of) his body intact. And more than that, isn't the pilot supposed to be controlling the suit by articulating his own body? So he'd need room in there for all his movements if he's not just gonna stand at attention the whole time.
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Jul 3, 2012 17:58
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crime fighting hog posted:I'm starting to like the idea more and more of casting my own terrain for columns, brick walls and the like. I'm looking over Hirst Arts and it doesn't seem too hard to do. Does anyone here do the same? I thought I saw one casting tutorial done by a goon here. Funny you should say this as it's exactly what I have been doing recently. I have borrowed a bunch of molds from a friend, and have been casting up a lot of blocks. Monday I bought two differently sized Ionic style cake columns, and made a mould of each of them using ultrasil, a hard wearing silicone bought here in Australia. After it cured over night I used Hydrostone TB casting plaster to make up some columns. I had more luck with the taller one than the shorter. Might be due to the mix ratio I used, but the fluting on the smaller column came out cracked and flawed. Not so bad though as I just used a small hammer to crack and chip the exterior, as well as break it in half. It, along with another wall I cast up and some Hirst arts blocks, is now being used to make a scenic Terrorgheist base. Pro's of Hirst Arts blocks - Quick to make, molds last for bloody ages if taken care of, and by combining different types you can make some really cool terrain. Con's - Some of the blocks get repetitive very quickly, which can make your scenery look a bit weird by blocks being repeated over and over on the one model. You'll also need to fill in a lot of gaps after gluing it together, to make it look like small individual blocks have been used rather than repeated block molds. Also, it's quite easy to get casting flaws of air bubbles and the like messing up your block. A vibrating table is essential for good casts, but if you like overkill like I do, only a pressure chamber will suffice. I am currently going through my collection of various pieces of Rackham metal terrain to get different doors, columns and the like. Also making my own pieces as I go along to cast up. I can say this though, once you're set up to make your own molds and terrain, it's hard to look back. If you live in the US, I have heard awesome things about casting plaster called "Enterprise" or something like that. Apparently it's bloody awesome stuff to use, and the guys here in Australia are notably jealous of it. I'll see about taking some photo's of my base in progress if you like. I am looking to begin staining the plaster with colour, building from light to dark, to get a more ethereal "broken empire at night in a swamp" kind of feel. Hoping it works.
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Jul 3, 2012 18:44
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Idiot question: can you prime and paint the plaster just like other stuff? That's great advice DP, I'll look into it when I get some time after my current commissions.
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Jul 3, 2012 19:14
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crime fighting hog posted:Idiot question: can you prime and paint the plaster just like other stuff? Absolutely. In fact I am going to experiment and see whether using oil paints thinned with spirits will be good in 'staining' the raw plaster instead of priming it first and then painting it. Plaster is porous, so I am hoping my experiment works.
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Jul 3, 2012 19:39
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The Dark Project posted:Absolutely. In fact I am going to experiment and see whether using oil paints thinned with spirits will be good in 'staining' the raw plaster instead of priming it first and then painting it. Plaster is porous, so I am hoping my experiment works. I would seal the plaster with a coat of varnish before using oil paints on it. I don't know if the oils will weaken/damage the plaster. Edit: Do a test before sitting down and trying it on everything in one evening.
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Jul 3, 2012 19:47
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Hirts Arts has a guide for using shoe polish of all things. I never would have thought of that.
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Jul 3, 2012 19:47
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crime fighting hog posted:Idiot question: can you prime and paint the plaster just like other stuff? Yes you can prime and paint plaster just like pewter, but make sure your plaster is dry. Make very sure of this as it can take longer than you think, and putting wet primer on not yet dry plaster can and likely will wreck your piece. Also do the things in these links and it will all work out much better. Wet water: http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/advanced.html#wet Vibrating table: http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/advanced.html#vibrate (Check out yard sales/charity shops for the massager and you can save $20-$25).
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Jul 3, 2012 19:48
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Muscle Tracer posted:And more than that, isn't the pilot supposed to be controlling the suit by articulating his own body? So he'd need room in there for all his movements if he's not just gonna stand at attention the whole time. Space Marines (and by extension Grey Knights) have multiple interfaces and jacks along their bodies that allow them to plug into their armors so that moves just as natural as their own bodies; when they think to move their arms, the armor moves along with it. By comparison, a normal human in power or terminator armor would need an "undersuit" that would help them move. Basically, the look I was going for involved the pilot ditching the Terminator armor all together in favor of a bigger, more bad-rear end suit of armor. So, basically they would be plugged in, with mostly mental control supplemented by hand controls, like a pair of control sticks or something. Having said that, I am taking into account of total body mass without the terminator armor. I'll snap a shot of it later today, now that I have the leg assembly together.
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Jul 3, 2012 20:11
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Sounds cool. I love the look of the terminator helmet, but without seeing more it's almost automatic to assume he's wearing more of the armor under it. Though a dude in briefs wearing a terminator helment in a confined space is a nice mental image. For some reason it reminds me of the rhino scene from Ace Ventura Pet Detective 2, When Nature Calls. Great, after youtubing it all I want is, "Kind'a hot in these rhinos!" to be a tasteful 40k catchphrase.
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Jul 3, 2012 20:39
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Got some work done on the stormtalon. Magnetizing it was a bitch The base is done though. 
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Jul 3, 2012 22:43
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Though a dude in briefs wearing a terminator helment in a confined space is a nice mental image. For some reason it reminds me of the rhino scene from Ace Ventura Pet Detective 2, When Nature Calls. Well it's either wear the helmet or go out without it. Now I know that helmetless is a style in 40k, but I loving hate it with a passion, so helmet it is! Anyways, here's some photos of the thing with legs.  As you can see, I extended the crotch area down a bit. One, it helps the suit feel more like massive armor instead of a frame; two, it gives more "interior" space to the pilot. Having looked at it from the critical standpoints that you guys have presented however, I'll admit that the space inside would be very tight.  Here's a side-by-side with a Cadian soldier (a warrior acolyte for my purposes). As you can see, the shoulder width and height place it within acceptable means, so long as the pilot has his legs together. Now, in the lore a space marine is many times larger than an Imperial guardsman, but in the models they are the same basic height. Still a bit of work to go, clearly, but I'm thinking it works.
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Jul 3, 2012 22:47
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Approximately a billion times better than a regular Dreadknight. Also keep the helmet. I don't think it looks like there is a guy in there, more like a scaled up Dreadnought. It still owns, however.
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Jul 3, 2012 23:05
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I like the flying contraption there, Crime Fighting Hog. Making face experiments: Not pleased with smiling lumpy no teeth old man here:   Super Sculpey Firm experiment - not great success (But now I'm very curious about the fabled JAG Fimo mixture). Half the time I was working he looked the spitting image of Kevin Bacon for serious you guys.   The next phase in face-tech. Make the nose and lips first, the rest after that. We'll see how it goes.  
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Jul 4, 2012 00:17
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Miles O'Brian posted:I don't think it looks like there is a guy in there, more like a scaled up Dreadnought. It still owns, however. If it looks like a dead dude inside there instead, I'm not going to complain. Maybe a Dreadknight operator is chosen because he's missing limbs and poo poo, but still has his head and wits about him? Whatever works. If anyone asks and gets really, really upset by it, I'll just throw a brick at them, since they clearly deserve it. 
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Jul 4, 2012 01:13
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Sole.Sushi posted:If it looks like a dead dude inside there instead, I'm not going to complain. Maybe a Dreadknight operator is chosen because he's missing limbs and poo poo, but still has his head and wits about him? Whatever works. If anyone asks and gets really, really upset by it, I'll just throw a brick at them, since they clearly deserve it.
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Jul 4, 2012 03:14
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Infinite Karma posted:Is the "hood and head" part from a Dreadnought? It looks that way to me, too. Then again, being a giant alternate Dreadnought piece of technology would be awesome, I don't know why it really matters if the guy inside is a brain in a jar or a whole Space Marine, you obviously can't see either way on the model, so it is whatever you say it is. The "hood" is indeed a Dreadnought part (specifically from the Venerable Dreadnought kit), but the head is the stock head from the Dreadknight Kit.
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Jul 4, 2012 06:03
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(crosspost from 40K thread) If you're in the UK and near an Aldi, you can get their Dettol substitute (I've only tried the lavender version so far), it seems to be working pretty good at stripping paint & primer off my 1992-era Space Marines with metal bodies and styrene arms. I'm a little worried about wearing off the fine details of the styrene bits (the feathers of the eagles on the bolter guns, etc.) so I started at 1:1 dilution with water but it seems to be okay so far. I think I'll use an old electric toothbrush head in the future, manually brushing the thick paint gets pretty tedious.
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Jul 4, 2012 13:05
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Nice one krushgroove, was about to blow a load on Dettol.
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Jul 4, 2012 14:31
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Yeah I have no idea how much Dettol costs, I've never bought it before, but I'm always in Aldi and it's just £1 so I figured I'd give it a shot!
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Jul 4, 2012 16:04
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Gave oil paint on plaster a try and it works quite well. You need to dilute it a lot if you just want a hint of colour, as the oil paint is quite strong otherwise. No damage to the plaster itself from the metholated spirits, but I might need to use a hair-dryer to speed up the process of drying a bit. But I am liking the effect on the white plaster. A light green gives a very sepulchral tone, but isn't overpowering. I am hoping that layering with different colours comes together well and gives a different dimension to it. Photo's of the base will be incoming as soon as I get over this drat flu.
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Jul 4, 2012 16:49
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krushgroove posted:Yeah I have no idea how much Dettol costs, I've never bought it before, but I'm always in Aldi and it's just £1 so I figured I'd give it a shot! It's about £4 for 750ml or £3 for 500ml. So quite a saving either way. If you have any, throw in some black primed plastics and tell us brits how it goes.
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Jul 4, 2012 17:45
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 Painted up my PanOceania purchases. It is hard to paint realistic proportions coming from Warhammer/Warmahordes. The guy with the blue legs, Croc Man, has Thermal Optic camo, so he gets the Predator treatment. I experimented with wet blending on the swords, so thanks for the ideas. The bases are MicroArt Studio's Ruined Factory.    
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Jul 4, 2012 18:12
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Sneaky Homunculus posted:
And the wet-blended swords don't look bad but are a pretty subtle gradient. The light portion looks kickass, but I'd try and get a shade darker on the darker green portion. Still seeing Infinity stuff makes me want to start the game that much more...
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Jul 4, 2012 19:14
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I finished casting some new 6mm terrain. First try at tiled roof, and I think it turned out ok, given the small scale.    Now I have to get on with the 15mm buildings, they just take so much more time as there is so much more space to fill with details.
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Jul 4, 2012 21:03
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ijyt posted:It's about £4 for 750ml or £3 for 500ml. So quite a saving either way. Wow, yeah - the Aldi stuff is called 'All-in-1' and comes in a 1 liter bottle for a quid. Not sure what the Lidl variant is called but I'd wager it probably does the same thing. Trip report on the early 90's Space Marines is good, the styrene survived the 2:1 dilution so I've tossed in some all-metal Chaos Terminators and added more of the disinfectant, probably a 4:1 ratio now of All-in-1 to water. All I used was a toothbrush, a modeling tool (wax scraper type thing) on the heavy stuff in the creases, and a cocktail stick on what I thought the metal tool might scratch. Soaked for 24 hours, brushed the heavy stuff off, then let soak for another day and took the rest off. I suppose you could get away with just 1 day of soaking and an electric toothbrush, but it's boring work and I wanted to watch TV. The Space Marines were primed in white, couldn't tell you the brand at all, I'll find out what color primer the Termies were painted with once tomorrow (just bought these online). These are very cool! But please don't make me look at 6mm stuff, I've spent enough on 40k stuff and painting equipment... But I will be getting into casting at some point, I want to make corpses and helmets/skulls to adorn my Dark Eldar and Chaos forces.
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Jul 4, 2012 21:38
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krushgroove posted:These are very cool! But please don't make me look at 6mm stuff, I've spent enough on 40k stuff and painting equipment... But I will be getting into casting at some point, I want to make corpses and helmets/skulls to adorn my Dark Eldar and Chaos forces. Thanks! But to be an rear end in a top hat to you, I will point out that 6mm is not only fast and simple to paint. You should also consider that an army take up almost no space, so it is very easy to store and carry around as a second army if you play mostly 28mm. And it's cheap as hell! 30-40 bucks will get you enough miniatures for an army in most rule systems. 6mm. You know you want it. I like 28mm and 15mm as well, but each scale has it's advantage, and the advantage of 6mm is that I have an entire army in a single cookie tin box
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Jul 4, 2012 21:47
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I got annoyed by the horrible design of GW's current scenery and terrain pieces and wrote a couple of blog posts. One is alot of swearing about skulls and the other is an overview of awesome alternatives and comparative pricing if anyone is interested. http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/
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Jul 4, 2012 22:24
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The last Malifaux models I painted. Trying to work up motivation to paint some more. I think I zoomed in too much in hindsight.   (I think they should be 1000 pixels wide or less. Please don't kill me if I hosed it up. Edit: figured out how to thumb nail them.) Cyclomatic fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jul 4, 2012 |
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Jul 4, 2012 22:28
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lilljonas posted:Thanks! Augh, stop it, even though I want to field regiments of infantry. Lethemonster posted:I got annoyed by the horrible design of GW's current scenery and terrain pieces and wrote a couple of blog posts. One is alot of swearing about skulls and the other is an overview of awesome alternatives and comparative pricing if anyone is interested. Yeah I like the goth-sci-fi look in small doses, luckily I just have one friend that's happy to buy proper GW terrain, while I prefer to build my own stuff, which I try to cross-purpose for Infinity - which means not many skulls, etc. I'll have to check out those Terraclips things - if they make modern/sci-fi stuff I'll almost certainly buy some. If you want some constructive criticism, though, if you Control-F 'real like' on your post, it should be 'real life' (sorry, I have a knack for finding typos). Also some links to the different companies would be helpful and make readers skip going to Google.
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Jul 4, 2012 23:02
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I'm really happy with how the colours on my Dire Wolves came out: So happy I'm thinking about trying the same thing on these Knights:  I'm not quite sure how to do it though. I'm thinking a similar leathery skin tone on the vampire heads + horse skin, then doing a dark -> light blue pattern on the horse armour. That leaves me a bit lost for what colour to do the vampire's armour in! Greenish? I don't know! I reckon doing the entire models blue will look a bit daft, but I tried mixing in silver and black in my graveguard and didn't really like how it turned out. Maybe this colour scheme won't really work on mainly armoured models? Lethemonster posted:I got annoyed by the horrible design of GW's current scenery and terrain pieces and wrote a couple of blog posts. One is alot of swearing about skulls and the other is an overview of awesome alternatives and comparative pricing if anyone is interested. The scenery you mention here is awesome! Do you know if there are any better photos of the pirate table online? The pictures on their website aren't that great: 
The Supreme Court fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Jul 5, 2012 |
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Jul 5, 2012 11:25
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 01:46 |
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Recreating this: With this:  After Big Ben has punched the poo poo out of the Mad Dog.
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Jul 5, 2012 12:59
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