|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:So CEL again on my lovely 1998 Civic LX automatic. 170k'ish miles. It used to drive across the country, for the past 3 years it only sees stop and go city driving and less than 5k miles a year. It has been much much hotter here than usual. With the caveat that I live above the rust line, I would say that if you have been having hard shifts for a long time and haven't done anything about it, and now it possibly got overheated and got a lot worse, the most cost-effective option is buy some Lucas Transmission Fix, dump it in, and just beat the transmission to death for however long it takes to find a new car (I'm assuming that wherever you are, having a shop do a complete transmission rebuild or replacement in a '98 Civic makes as little sense as it would here. If you are in Texas or something and the car is otherwise perfect, maybe not.) Often if an auto tranny has been abused it's cheaper and less hassle to just let it die than try to fix it before it finishes dying. edit: worth taking it to a shop if you can get a free estimate but it will likely be $1400+ and/or they will tell you not to bother. plus if you take it to a lazy/shady shop they might just do a lovely pressure flush without dropping the pan or filter and it will die even faster than it would otherwise. If someone offers to "flush and fill" for <$100 don't bother. If someone local can recommend you a reputable place to do a full flush and service (dropping the pan, new filter) it might be worth doing with the caveat that it still might just kill the tranny even faster than a bottle of Lucas plus more benign neglect. 1st Edition ADandD fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jul 5, 2012 |
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 23:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:36 |
|
|
some texas redneck posted:INFORMATION! Thanks for the information STR, I sincerely appreciate the feedback. I had the car towed and left at a japanese auto specialist. They confirmed blown head gasket. gently caress. 3-5 Business days and an estimate of 1400 + tax. I'm calling a local honda dealership to get an estimate on their prices. edit; honda estimate 1500 * tax. FUUUCK I HATE BEING BROKE AND BAD AT CARS I'm moving to Los Angeles for school at the start of Sept, end of August. The 03 civic was originally bought for $8,500 @ 58k miles. Giant sound system in the back. Blue book says I could sell it for ~$3,300 now at ~99k miles. Is it worth dropping the ~$1500 into the car? It would suck not being able to drive but on the other hand, if I live close to school it shouldn't be a big deal. While I know LA is a car town, it also had stupid traffic. How much could I sell the civic for if I mention the broken head gasket? It's a pretty nice car other than that. Great sound system, minor aesthetic scratches and good gas mileage. I'd take a picture but it's in the shop. BRB MAKIN BACON fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jul 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 23:54
|
|
|
So besides changing the oil and transmission fluid regularly, replacing worn components and making sure the engine doesn't overheat, most engines should make 500k plus miles in a lifetime right? My Accord is at 205K right now, The car has to last 3 years more of school before I can even think of replacing her.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 00:06
|
|
|
BRB MAKIN BACON posted:Thanks for the information STR, I sincerely appreciate the feedback. I had the car towed and left at a japanese auto specialist. They confirmed blown head gasket. gently caress. 3-5 Business days and an estimate of 1400 + tax. I'm calling a local honda dealership to get an estimate on their prices. You won't get a whole lot for it with the blown head gasket - probably a lot less than you would get for it in running condition, unless you find a gearhead that also likes sound systems (most people won't give 2 shits about the stereo). Personally, I'd go ahead and get it fixed, though call around for prices. Make sure they're replacing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner - they're due around 100k/7 years anyway. The timing belt has to come off to pull the head, and the water pump is right there. At that price, they're hopefully including that in the quote. Around here, I see Civics going for far over KBB value all the time, even if they're beat to poo poo, as long as they're still moving under their own power. A quick search for private owner 2003 Civics on my local Craigslist revealed this:  The "ugly but reliable" one has 230k, no a/c, no radio, hail damage, generally beat to hell, and it's a base model DX (manual windows/locks/etc). The $7000 one is an EX with over 120k. Trust me, it's worth more than $3300. b0nes posted:So besides changing the oil and transmission fluid regularly, replacing worn components and making sure the engine doesn't overheat, most engines should make 500k plus miles in a lifetime right? Depending on year and engine, your Accord needs a timing belt/water pump replacement every 60k-105k miles, unless it's a 2003+ 4 cylinder (which uses a timing chain). The V6 still uses a timing belt, even on current models - I believe all of the Accord V6's are due every 90-105k. I believe they switched to 90k (from 60k) in 1990, then 105k in... 98? It's an expensive job, but if the timing belt breaks, you're looking at pulling the head and replacing several valves.. if you're lucky. 500k is very optimistic for a gasoline engine (but not unheard of), but you should be able to get another 100k-200k out of it with regular maintenance. If it's a 98-03 V6 Accord, I would advise dumping it though; the automatic they used in the 98-03 (possibly 04 as well) V6 was complete garbage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 00:28
|
|
|
You are my favorite type of texan mr redneck.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 00:36
|
|
|
BRB MAKIN BACON posted:Thanks for the information STR, I sincerely appreciate the feedback. I had the car towed and left at a japanese auto specialist. They confirmed blown head gasket. gently caress. 3-5 Business days and an estimate of 1400 + tax. I'm calling a local honda dealership to get an estimate on their prices. 1400+ seems... High for a headgasket job... Find a new mechanic!
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 01:13
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:1400+ seems... High for a headgasket job... Find a new mechanic! I searched around my direct vicinity. I was given the following estimates: 2000 (Honda dealership) 1700 1600 1400 (Japanese specialist) 1400 (Japanese specialist) But I fully agree it seems high, at least according to my preliminary research of googling civic replacement head gaskets. It seems like the process should be much closer to the 1100 range. But the only place I haven't called near me is the Benz dealership. Would they be willing to work on my Honda? That doesn't seem likely, but I'm not sure. And again, I really want to thank this forum for their help. I am undereducated on the auto game and all this information is hugely beneficial. I'm a recent college graduate looking to enter graduate school. I have been working for 7 months at an ok but not great job. The difference in a few hundred dollars is literally life changing money at this stage in my life. I sincerely appreciate the wisdom and advice of the goons who have responded to me and my troubles.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 01:45
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Codes P0700 and P0730 While I don't know on your car specifically, this sound a whole lot like a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) issue, which is a WHOLE LOT cheaper and easier than a transmission. Maybe some who is more familiar with Civics of that vintage will chime in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 02:16
|
|
|
BRB MAKIN BACON posted:I searched around my direct vicinity. Uhh, the only way it should be OVER $600 is if the head is warped all to gently caress and needs to be disassembled and machined by a machine shop... Repost your Year/Version (LX DX 2dr 4rd A/C etc.) info so I can poke and make sure there's not somewhing WEIRD that I'm unaware of... (Unlikely, as I seem to be the resident Honda savant.) Hell I did a head-gasket/timing-belt/waterpump job recently that included head surfacing (just took the rocker arms out, not fully disassembled.) and it only came to like $900 INCLUDING genuine Honda parts all around...
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 02:27
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Codes P0700 and P0730 Going through the flowchart, if their are no other codes (p0700 doesn't count, it's just a generic code for a trans fault) it looks like the tranny is probably toast. What Motronic said could make sense about being a possible VSS because the PCM computes what the gear ratio should be based on input/output speeds. But, I'm assuming that maybe on your trim level/body style ABS was standard and it compares the VSS output to the wheel speed sensors to determine if the VSS is functioning properly. (Hence troubleshoot any other codes first, such as a VSS code). Basically the flowchart is telling you to check the hydraulic pressures to the clutch packs, if those are the problems then try replacing the solenoid valve assembly's first, and then recheck, if that doesn't fix it then replace the tranny. Bocklebee fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jul 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 02:39
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:Uhh, the only way it should be OVER $600 is if the head is warped all to gently caress and needs to be disassembled and machined by a machine shop... 2 door DX 2003 Honda Civic (I think it's a DX... not 100% sure). The price included replacing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner but as I understand it those pieces aren't that expensive to replace anyway. The store owner specifically mentioned having to send away to a machine shop. However I was unable to snag any photos between last night and when the shop stated these decisions. That was silly on my part not to take some photos. As far as I could tell (which tbh means basically nothing because I know next to nothing about cars) there didn't appear to be any visible warping. Would I be able to determine if there was warping that required warping just from popping the hood?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 04:23
|
|
|
BRB MAKIN BACON posted:2 door DX 2003 Honda Civic (I think it's a DX... not 100% sure). The price included replacing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner but as I understand it those pieces aren't that expensive to replace anyway. The store owner specifically mentioned having to send away to a machine shop. However I was unable to snag any photos between last night and when the shop stated these decisions. That was silly on my part not to take some photos. As far as I could tell (which tbh means basically nothing because I know next to nothing about cars) there didn't appear to be any visible warping. Would I be able to determine if there was warping that required warping just from popping the hood? The only way to be certain would be to pull the head off and check the block/head deck surfaces with a straightedge and trying to stick feeler gauges underneath. A visual inspection, even with the engine disassembled, can't rule out the kind of tolerances you're working with; just a few thousandths twist end to end is enough to screw things up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 04:37
|
|
|
EssOEss posted:Have you tried twisting it? Look at the new bulb - does not have any obvious attachments or does it look push-in? It could just be a really well stuck bulb, if nobody has touched it for years.  There is no obvious way to separate the bulb from the socket. The manual says to just pull it but it won't budge. Can I just get the socket replaced? Because the grey part separates from the wire no problem.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 05:55
|
|
|
b0nes posted:
Can you push in those two metal-looking tabs toward the bottom edge of the socket?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 06:18
|
|
|
Those bulbs 100% just pull straight out. They also rust in there pretty hard. Worst thing that happens is you smash the bulb pulling it out - wear gloves/glasses, and then use pliers to get the rest out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 06:25
|
|
|
Memento1979 posted:Those bulbs 100% just pull straight out. They also rust in there pretty hard. Worst thing that happens is you smash the bulb pulling it out - wear gloves/glasses, and then use pliers to get the rest out. This is the truth. It may seem like it's going to break off, but they pop right out once you overcome the initial friction and/or rust. Put on a good substantial glove (leather/Mechanix/chainmail), protect your eyes, and yank that sucker. If they didn't seat in there solidly, everybody would be driving around with no brake lights the first time they hit a speed bump. You can probably get a new socket at the Honda dealer if you're just not feeling it, but the owner's manual isn't lying to you. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Jul 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 07:00
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:The only way to be certain would be to pull the head off and check the block/head deck surfaces with a straightedge and trying to stick feeler gauges underneath. A visual inspection, even with the engine disassembled, can't rule out the kind of tolerances you're working with; just a few thousandths twist end to end is enough to screw things up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0hjSaYCRnA I dunno if I can do that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 07:18
|
|
|
We've got a 2004 Chevy Express G1500 4.3l work van that won't set the evap or catalytic monitors on a drive cycle and isn't throwing any trouble codes either. The other 3 monitors will set, and we need just one of these to set for smog ck. The drive cycle conditions have been met, but the monitors simply will not set for some stupid reason that escapes us. Thought it might be the summer desert ambient temperature preventing it from setting, so we took it on an early morning drive before it got real hot outside and still nothing. Replaced & reprogrammed the ECU and still no codes and the same two monitors refuse to set. Posted on ask-a-tech too, but I figure AI can take a crack at it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 17:21
|
|
|
Here is a dumb question. I have seen it done, but it seems like there would be some metal incompatibilities. What are the chances of taking a standard car engine and converting it to a marine engine? I know you would need to make the manifolds water cooled, but how would the O2 sensor handle that? I know the lower unit would provide the water needed for cooling but I assume you would need a metal impeller for the actually engine water pump? Because I have 2 things. 1. An empty boat hull with a good trailer and lower unit. 2. Access to a cheap engine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 20:09
|
|
|
May or may not help but as far as I know the Volvo B-series redblocks were the same long block as the Volvo Penta boat engines. It's definitely doable.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 20:16
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Here is a dumb question. I think just take good notes from Jeremy Clarkson's attempts and you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
1998 Ford Taurus SHO -Is it possible for an alternator to randomly seize up and then un-seize? I had not driven my car for the last two days, and today it was really slow to crank, almost as if the battery was low. When running it made a horrific sound and the charging light came on, then smoke, lots of smoke. I shut it off for a few minutes and could see it was coming from the acc. belt area. After 5 minutes with the car off, I figured I would limp it home since I was just around the corner, and when it restarted it was perfectly fine. Magical self fixing problem? Maybe? Hopefully? Have you seen where an alternator is on a v8 SHO or duratec... 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 01:37
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:I have seen it done, but it seems like there would be some metal incompatibilities. What are the chances of taking a standard car engine and converting it to a marine engine? I know you would need to make the manifolds water cooled, I've never seen a car/truck motor converted to a marine motor in any way other than waterproofing and some other minor stuff. NEVER cooling system changes. Plenty of companies do this work. My local fire company has an LSx crate motor marinised by Pleasurecraft powering our water rescue air boat. It has a radiator and coolant, just like it was supposed to at the factory. Not sure why outboard water cooling would be a worthwhile endeavor for a converted car motor when you could just keep the regular cooling loop, modify the ECU to not be a bitch about being no attached to much of anything, and waterproof the electrics.  (from when I picked it up in Orange, TX a couple years ago)  (this is a close up I have of a similar one)  (another one I just found of ours looking behind the pilot's seat) Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 01:45
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've never seen a car/truck motor converted to a marine motor in any way other than waterproofing and some other minor stuff. NEVER cooling system changes. To add to this, Atkins Rotary makes a single rotor Wankel that can be used for boats: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=14
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:To add to this, Atkins Rotary makes a single rotor Wankel that can be used for boats: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=14 And we had one of those on the hovercraft this boat replaced. It was awesome.  It was a bit scary with 4 people on it, as it was pretty much out of power.....and having reserve power on a craft like that is how you get yourself out of trouble. You really were left with few good options. It was just too difficult to train operators the the point that you could trust them a hairy situation (especially when you're working as the rescue swimmer). It also didn't put out a lot of power and/or stalled when cold, so we'd start it and let it high idle while we towed it the mile or so to our launch. And many other annoying 10 year old custom built hovercraft kind of problems......or at least I'd imagine those would be typical custom build hovercraft problems if I had experience on more than one other hovercraft that was basically the same hull and motor. Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 02:33
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I've never seen a car/truck motor converted to a marine motor in any way other than waterproofing and some other minor stuff. NEVER cooling system changes. Oh, hey. Glad to see you're back motronic... It hasn't been the same without you... You should go slap those pics into the Aquatic Insanity thread. That truly is a beautiful machine!
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 02:33
|
|
|
Bocklebee posted:Going through the flowchart, if their are no other codes (p0700 doesn't count, it's just a generic code for a trans fault) it looks like the tranny is probably toast. What Motronic said could make sense about being a possible VSS because the PCM computes what the gear ratio should be based on input/output speeds. But, I'm assuming that maybe on your trim level/body style ABS was standard and it compares the VSS output to the wheel speed sensors to determine if the VSS is functioning properly. (Hence troubleshoot any other codes first, such as a VSS code). A 98 Civic doesn't have ABS as standard on any trim level. It's definitely an option on the EX, and possibly the LX, but the ABS system is completely separate from everything else. I don't think you could order it on any other trim levels in 98. I'd check the solenoids and make sure the screens aren't clogged, and that they're working properly, but beyond that, it may be on its last legs. BRB MAKIN BACON posted:2 door DX 2003 Honda Civic (I think it's a DX... not 100% sure). The price included replacing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner but as I understand it those pieces aren't that expensive to replace anyway. The store owner specifically mentioned having to send away to a machine shop. The DX is the base model - manual windows, manual locks, etc. LX adds power windows/locks/mirrors, EX adds a sunroof and a more powerful engine. Of course, prices vary depending what part of the country you're in. Hourly labor around here ranges anywhere from $75-$125 (higher at dealers) depending on the shop.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 03:19
|
|
|
I have a couple of stupid questions about my recently purchased 1990 diesel hilux, reposted from the 4x4 thread; 1: The engine seemed to take ages to come up to operating temp, in fact, after 50kms of highway the temp gauge was only about 1/3rd of the way across. 2: The handbrake on dummy light stays on even after I release the handbrake, sometimes have to jiggle it/gently caress around to get it to go off. (Checked this one out online and apparently can be casued by low brake fluid? The brakes are lovely right now, planning to do new pads and fluid come Sunday) 3: My left indicator only comes on when the steering wheel is tilted to about 140 degrees over to the left, also the high beams don't stay switched on, could the indicator switch/column bit be hosed? Or a grounding issue somewhere?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 03:38
|
|
|
Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:1: The engine seemed to take ages to come up to operating temp, in fact, after 50kms of highway the temp gauge was only about 1/3rd of the way across. The typical, cheap and easy answer to this one is: change the thermostat. It's probably stuck open. Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:2: The handbrake on dummy light stays on even after I release the handbrake, sometimes have to jiggle it/gently caress around to get it to go off. (Checked this one out online and apparently can be casued by low brake fluid? The brakes are lovely right now, planning to do new pads and fluid come Sunday) It's a combo light on most things: parking brake on (a switch/plunger on the handle) and a fluid level sensor in the cap. The former is no big deal. The latter is bad. Regardless of the light, I'd go over your brakes and make sure everything is in order first. If the light still comes on then it's time to track it down. But making sure your brakes are safe is job #1 here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 03:49
|
|
|
SouthLAnd posted:1998 Ford Taurus SHO Highly unlikely. Sounds like your alternator is kicking the bucket. Fix it before your dead on the road. To Motornic- Yeah I kinda figured it would be a bitch an half to get the water introduced into the system. But I plan on just using a carbed engine anyways. Though I don't think it would be all that hard to throw on the GM TBI system. The TBI system seems to be huge in the hot rod community. The system is pretty simple like a carb, but has the reliability of a carb. Edit: If I was to do this, I would be in fresh water only... and I am using the term fresh loosely. Any one ever seen the water in Iowa? BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jul 7, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 06:00
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Highly unlikely. The car is a 98 and I've been milking it for all it's been worth. I'm at the point where I don't want to put any big money into a car that gets 16 miles to the gallon and has 235hp and a 4-speed auto. Time for a Fiesta I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 07:55
|
|
|
Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:2: The handbrake on dummy light stays on even after I release the handbrake, sometimes have to jiggle it/gently caress around to get it to go off. (Checked this one out online and apparently can be casued by low brake fluid? The brakes are lovely right now, planning to do new pads and fluid come Sunday) The handbrake light is probably just the switch in the housing for the handbrake not disconnecting properly. I don't think a 1990 hilux has a sensor in the brake master cylinder to tell you it's low. Having said that, checking all of your brakes for wear, including fluid and lines, is never a bad idea. The indicator thing is almost certainly a problem with the combination switch. I think if you're handy with some solder, cracking it open and finding where it's not connecting properly shouldn't be too hard, but for that matter getting one from a wrecking yard is probably also a decent, low-cost alternative. They don't generally wear out, and the only time I've ever replaced them is when the whole steering column was all hosed up from a thief trying to get it started with a screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 09:05
|
|
|
SouthLAnd posted:The car is a 98 and I've been milking it for all it's been worth. I'm at the point where I don't want to put any big money into a car that gets 16 miles to the gallon and has 235hp and a 4-speed auto. Time for a Fiesta I guess. An alternator should be pretty cheap. I'd expect it to use the same one as practically every other Ford motor from the late 80s to mid 2000s.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 22:50
|
|
|
Really stupid question here: Is a 2012 Subaru Impreza Sport Premium too nice a car to park in an alley overnight year round? I guess in particular the alloy wheels getting stolen. I know the dealer offers wheel locks but they probably won't deter a thief with the right tools.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 03:31
|
|
|
It depends on the alley?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 04:54
|
|
|
wide stance posted:Really stupid question here: If you can't afford parking, how are you affording that car?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 13:19
|
|
|
O2 sensor mystery solved, apparently my car is a CA emmisions vehicle. What the hell difference would there be on O2 sensors? Of course its twice as expensive as the normal one. Thanks, CA, you panty wastes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 13:30
|
|
|
Uthor posted:It depends on the alley? It's an alley behind a bunch of apartment buildings in an urban area. 1st Edition ADandD posted:If you can't afford parking, how are you affording that car? It's the only parking available (besides street), and I do pay for it actually. e: 1st Edition ADandD posted:You might want to ask in one of the insurance threads and find out if your insurance company is likely to gently caress you over if anything does happen.... Yes, but I don't want to go through the cost and headache and if it means buying another car then I'll do it... wide stance fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jul 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 14:38
|
|
|
I was recently talking to the wife and she mentioned a news article on barcoded/ registered stop signs and how the stop signs that don't have those are usually illegal due to housing developers just wanting to do things their way. I looked this up and got nothing to this effect. To be clear I am in TX, but this isn't to get out of a ticket.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 14:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:36 |
|
|
wide stance posted:It's an alley behind a bunch of apartment buildings in an urban area. You might want to ask in one of the insurance threads and find out if your insurance company is likely to gently caress you over if anything does happen....
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2012 15:33
|
|