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New latch time... what model/year? You can get brand new XJ latches for like 35 bucks each from a site I found a while ago. It'll probably act up from now on if you do manage to get it unjammed.
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Jul 6, 2012 20:46
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So uh, I wasn't expecting this to happen today, but, ya it did! 2012 Unlimited Sport with Customer Preferred package 23s which includes the following 17" Wheel 255/75R17 tires Power convenience group power heated mirros Power windows/locks Remote Keyless entry Security Alarm Leather wrapper steering wheel Chrome/Leather Shift knob Tinted Windows And the absolute most awesome thing is the Connectivity Group Bluetooth stereo and all the controls for it on the steering wheel. Trac-Lok LSRD Infinity sound system with sub Now, I owen a 97 or 98 Jeep, whichever year was the first with the round head lights again. It was the first car I ever bought and I loved the thing. This is like a completely different vehicle! Nevermind the fact my old one was the crap 4cyl auto, the engine in this thing is awesome! Rides smoother than I expected and is just all around awesome. So, are there any must do first mods? I'd like a 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" lift, but will probably wait a bit before doing that. What else?
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Jul 6, 2012 22:45
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mattfl posted:
Anyone who has a soft top has this.
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Jul 6, 2012 22:58
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commissargribb posted:Anyone who has a soft top has this. Lol, true, very true.
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Jul 6, 2012 23:00
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mattfl posted:So, are there any must do first mods? I'd like a 1 1/2 - 2 1/2" lift, but will probably wait a bit before doing that. What else? Grab your rear-view mirror and rotate it 180 degrees upside down so the "dimmer" tab is on top. You'd be amazed how much better you can see out the back AND the front.
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Jul 6, 2012 23:11
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ethanol posted:If I drop the track bar, I have to drop the pitman the same length, right? If I buy an adjustable track bar, do I still have to drop the pitman arm? Not really. Swapping pitman arms is usually something you only need to do in the 5"+ lift range. As long as your drag link and track bar are relatively parallel (at the mounts) you should be fine. Several aftermarket track bar mfg's include a dropped frame-side bracket anyway. jhcain posted:The only thing I've thought of is that the track bar is wrong (bought another one, compared, nope. Looks fine) or that perhaps the track bar mount on the frame is bent? Given that you've replaced just about everything else, a bent bracket would be my only guess (either frame or axle-side or both). I'm not sure how much clearance there is normally, but it probably wouldn't take much to kick it out of tolerance.
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Jul 6, 2012 23:43
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So here's a question: what are the various merits of ZJs (particularly the "second gen" ones) vs XJs? I pretty much know the various pros/cons of XJs but are any ZJs any good? Most important: are ZJs something to stay away from, on average? I know most of the reason they're so common is because they rode that best-selling 2WD SUV train for a while, but are there good 4WD models to be found out there that are worth getting?
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Jul 7, 2012 00:27
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gently caress. I forgot to put the bolt back in the crank nose before pulling the harmonic balancer. Managed to punch out each and every one of the threads in the nose.  Guess I'll see if the machine shop can Helicoil it when they're honing the block. I'd rather have a 258 crank, but I'll be damned if I've been able to find one.
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Jul 7, 2012 03:31
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OneOverZero posted:gently caress. I forgot to put the bolt back in the crank nose before pulling the harmonic balancer. Managed to punch out each and every one of the threads in the nose. Wow that blows. Are you sure you didn't only wreck the first one or two? I think I might know someone who has one.
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Jul 7, 2012 03:46
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Nah, I blew through every last one because I was too busy blasting blues rock to pay attention. It does look like I could use a Helicol or Timecert without too much difficulty, though I'd probably still take it to work or a machine shop to ensure it's chucked properly. Should've just swapped in this 296k junkyard engine without putzing with it; the one in my truck has gone at least 2000mi on zero oil pressure and a collapsed lifter, so clock's ticking. That said, if there's a 258 crank available, I'm up for it.
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Jul 7, 2012 04:17
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mattfl posted:So uh, I wasn't expecting this to happen today, but, ya it did! Are you going off-road? Front bumper and a winch, you may want a leveling kit if the nose dips too much from the weight. Ace rock sliders. Also, give me your wheels (I wish I would've gotten the 17s instead of the 16s). If the hood jumps in the wind, Daystar makes hood latches for like $25 that'll cure it. Seconding the rearview mirror. Makes a world of difference. Also, remove your sideview mirrors and drill a small hole at the very bottom of the piece that attaches to the door. The mirror base is mostly hollow and will fill up with like half a loving gallon of water every time it rains and it will never evaporate. It'll fly out of there and in through your window days/weeks later and every time you wash the drat thing.
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Jul 7, 2012 22:47
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VH4Ever posted:So here's a question: what are the various merits of ZJs (particularly the "second gen" ones) vs XJs? I pretty much know the various pros/cons of XJs but are any ZJs any good? Most important: are ZJs something to stay away from, on average? I know most of the reason they're so common is because they rode that best-selling 2WD SUV train for a while, but are there good 4WD models to be found out there that are worth getting? The 42RE (behind the 4.0) has a bad rep for unreliability, the overwhelming majority of which is caused by people using the wrong goddamned fluid. Use friction modifiers and it'll last 50k, use the proper stuff and it'll go 250k. 44RE (5.2L) and 46RE (5.9L) are stouter. Bear in mind that ZJs have more interior electronics to look out for. The Laredo SE was pretty well-equipped (essentially a Limited interior albeit with cloth seats), and my only problem has been the overhead console (resets to 19.7MPG AVG with every key cycle). I'd say it's every bit as solid as an XJ, mechanically, so long as you're prepared to find one that has been maintained properly.
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Jul 7, 2012 23:20
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Godholio posted:Are you going off-road? Front bumper and a winch, you may want a leveling kit if the nose dips too much from the weight. Ace rock sliders. Also, give me your wheels (I wish I would've gotten the 17s instead of the 16s). If the hood jumps in the wind, Daystar makes hood latches for like $25 that'll cure it. So I spent $10 and did this today  It's the bed liner in a can stuff. I think it looks awesome and will hold me over until I can get a proper set of wheels/tires. Did the review mirror and yeah it makes a huge difference. Will do the mirrors tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Jul 8, 2012 00:55
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 Drove to New Hampshire today to do a saber detail for a wedding. Now I want to go drive through the White Mountains again. mattfl posted:
Seriously if you can, skip the canned bed liner and get the roll on stuff. It's not expensive and you can get it at walmart. I have the spray stuff on the inside of mine and it scrapes and chips. If I were to do it over again I would use the roll on stuff. OneOverZero posted:
 I'll have an entire 258 available soonish.Godholio posted:Are you going off-road? Front bumper and a winch, you may want a leveling kit if the nose dips too much from the weight. Ace rock sliders. Also, give me your wheels (I wish I would've gotten the 17s instead of the 16s). If the hood jumps in the wind, Daystar makes hood latches for like $25 that'll cure it. Are JKs really made so terribly that you need a leveling kit to fix the suspension after installing a winch and a new front bumper and the factory hood latches dont hold the hood shut? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 05:04
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Needing a leveling kit for an aftermarket bumper and a winch is not that surprising, winches generally weigh 50-100 pounds and an aftermarket bumper can easily add another 100 if it's a heavy duty armored one. All hanging well past the suspension, it tends to cause a bit of sag. The hood latch thing is kinda stupid though. edit: my bumpers are ~5 feet long, at 15.6lb/ft for 2x6 1/4 wall steel box tube, that's 80 pounds just for the bumper, nevermind the 1/4" thick mounting tabs or 4x7x1" thick D-ring tabs (~8lbs each.) Bumper weight adds up fast if you want it to be rock proof. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 05:16
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kastein posted:All hanging well past the suspension, it tends to cause a bit of sag. When I think of sag, I think of that V8 hanging off the crane pulling down the front end of your MJ. kastein posted:
Dude, I'm pretty sure your bumper could stop a .308 ball round.
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Jul 8, 2012 05:23
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mattfl posted:
Those look awesome, and that's what I wanted to do to them. For the sideview mirrors...most states require you to have at least the driver's side in place, so if you remove the doors you need to relocate them. Quadratec (and other sites) sell relocation brackets for the factory mirrors...takes about 5-10 minutes to move each. I moved my driver's side only. If you move the passenger side mirror, then put the doors back on, the door will block like half (or more) of the mirror. I only care about it when I have the doors/top on, so I just left that mirror in place. If I have the doors off I have a better field of view over my shoulder (I always look). Every generation Wrangler has had hood lift issues. YJ/TJ/JK...I've never driven a CJ. The main latches move...it's how they work. The JK Daystars are just a little shorter in length, and don't stretch as much. They hold the hood down much tighter...takes a little more effort to latch them. Edit: And there are several JK bumpers out there that weigh 150 lbs or more. Add a winch on there, and you basically have a mid-sized GBS poster standing on your bumper. You don't think it'll sag?
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Jul 8, 2012 06:02
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commissargribb posted:
So very true. I only use cans for touch-ups, the roll-on stuff is more durable, and covers WAAAAY more square footage so it's much more cost effective. Plus, you'll avoid the hazard of asphyxiating yourself while coating the inside of you tub.
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Jul 8, 2012 08:35
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Godholio posted:
^this absolutely. Though honestly after replaced my lovely tiny door mounted mirrors with cowling mounted ones I could see the passenger side one with the hard doors but not with the soft doors since the window is a little smaller. And like you said when you're driving open air in the back is really reduces those rear passenger side blind spots. I would still use a mirror there if you were towing something too but I suppose you could throw doors on for that. Godholio posted:
OH! HOOD LIFTS. I thought you were talking about latches. Yeah, my jeep doesnt even have hood lifts. I just have my arms. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 12:20
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I'm pretty sure the rear main seal on my 99 XJ is starting to go out. I'm noticing more oil leaking than normal, and looking at the engine I can see fresh oil staining the end nearest the transmission, mostly on the driver side under the intake & exhaust headers. For folks that have done their RMS, does this sound like what you saw too? How much will I hate life if I change the seal myself? There are a couple good youtube videos walking through the process, and it looks like the worst part is dropping the oil pan and dealing with the mess (2 part seal means no need to separate the trans at least). If I do the seal, should I replace anything else while I have the pan down like the oil pump? I have 170k on my XJ but haven't noticed any problems with the pump.
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Jul 8, 2012 18:17
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commissargribb posted:
I love how cheap everything can be for the wrangler, a rock goes through my headlight on my Mustang and it costs $300+ for the plastic transparent assembly that holds the $30 light bulb. Jeep was $12 for the whole thing. $200 for a new windshield, last time I replaced the mustangs windshield it was like $600 if I remember correctly.
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Jul 8, 2012 21:42
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You know what's even better? Comanches... my windshield costs $170 if I have someone else do it, and it's around 40 bucks for the glass itself, plus 30 or so for urethane and primer if I do it myself. rear axle? $100 engine? $100 transmission? $free auto, $150-200 manual transfer case? $50-100 front axle? $100 shocks? $23 stock control arms? $free stock ujoints? $6 each driveshaft, $25 each frontend new springs, front? $160 new springs, rear? $300 shipped kastein fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 21:46
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Crane posted:They are talking about latches, when you drive the wind will "lift" your hood a fraction, the wiggle can be distracting so you buy a latch that is a little tighter. oh weird. I've literally never encountered this ever. Even when I forget to latch the hood on the sides.
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Jul 8, 2012 22:21
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This is what happens when you let your sister drive your Jeep for 4 months: That brake 'pad' is worn all the way down to the backing plate and is starting to gouge nice grooves in the outer edge of the rotor.  At least new rotors are cheap as hell.
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Jul 8, 2012 23:28
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mod sassinator posted:This is what happens when you let your sister drive your Jeep for 4 months: Mine did the same thing to my XJ. In addition to off roading and tearing the poo poo out of my exhaust.
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Jul 8, 2012 23:30
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commissargribb posted:Anyone who has a soft top has this. I dont ever lock my jeep mod sassinator posted:This is what happens when you let your sister drive your Jeep for 4 months: My dad sits on the board for Bendix. I dont even know what breaks cost 
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Jul 8, 2012 23:35
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JEEVES420 posted:I dont ever lock my jeep Well it depends on what exactly. As an example breaking an axleshaft costs me 30 dollars.
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Jul 8, 2012 23:40
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I never lock my jeep either, I don't keep valuables in it and leave stuff in plain sight so people don't get curious. If I lock the plastic glovebox or console then someone's just gonna take a screwdriver to it to see if anythings worth stealing. Plus if the doors are locked I don't want someone taking a knife to the ragtop to snoop around. Only time I've locked it is when I bought a TV and was hauling it home, but I had my tinted window hardtop on then. Anyways I always have the little mini-safe that fits in the spare tire void for if I wanna leave my wallet when I'm swimming.
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Jul 9, 2012 00:14
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JEEVES420 posted:I dont ever lock my jeep Crane posted:I never lock my jeep either, I don't keep valuables in it and leave stuff in plain sight so people don't get curious. If I lock the plastic glovebox or console then someone's just gonna take a screwdriver to it to see if anythings worth stealing. Plus if the doors are locked I don't want someone taking a knife to the ragtop to snoop around. Only time I've locked it is when I bought a TV and was hauling it home, but I had my tinted window hardtop on then. I dont even know where my keys are to my soft doors or if I ever received them when I bought them online. When I'm parked doorless I usually loop a bicycle chain through the doors since they're probably the most expensive thing on the jeep. My center console is a 30mm ammo can at the moment but I'd like to eventually rig it up to take a padlock. 
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Jul 9, 2012 02:50
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That ammo can is great.
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Jul 9, 2012 09:04
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Georgia Peach posted:That ammo can is great. Thanks. I keep putting off modifying it so it's more useful. I want to take a cutting wheel and trim the edges of the cover a little and then replace the rear latch with a simple steel hinge or otherwise make it so it doesnt come off. Add drain holes, thicker mounting bolts so I can be sure it wont get torn out etc. Plus of course I want to make the front accept a padlock. I can fit a fairly good sized laptop inside when it's empty but it's generally 50% full of repair stuff.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:54
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Ok so I was taking off my doors and like a dummy I disconnected the strap then walked away for a second and my door swung and hit my Jeep and put a nice dent in it. Does anyone have any idea how much this would cost to fix? I wont be able to get it in until next next weekend and I'm curious. Its not bad but its on the part that's about 2 inches above my antenna. I could pop it out with a hammer but that piece is welded to the part my antenna is on, so I cant get in behind it. Even if I take off the part the wipers go through I can't get to it because there is a wall. 
Guru Yaekob fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 16:14
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Call a PDR guy. Or move that trail rated badge up a couple of inches to cover it.
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Jul 9, 2012 16:45
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That should be about the cheapest dent you could get.
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Jul 9, 2012 16:54
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So I was dropping off my DD to get an exhaust leak fixed when I saw this parked at the garage.   A Willys Overland CJ3B BEST PART:  PTO hook/wrecker mechanism? Not 100% sure what this is. Guru Yaekob posted:Ok so I was taking off my doors and like a dummy I disconnected the strap then walked away for a second and my door swung and hit my Jeep and put a nice dent in it. Does anyone have any idea how much this would cost to fix? I wont be able to get it in until next next weekend and I'm curious. Its not bad but its on the part that's about 2 inches above my antenna. I could pop it out with a hammer but that piece is welded to the part my antenna is on, so I cant get in behind it. Even if I take off the part the wipers go through I can't get to it because there is a wall. Can you still open the hood? looks good from here. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 16:59
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commissargribb posted:Can you still open the hood? I can spot it from across a parking lot. It just stares at me, yeah I can open the hood, that piece has nothing to do with the hood at all.
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Jul 9, 2012 17:58
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Hey, I went to a place and did some stuff:      
Braincloud fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 18:25
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someone in mass (or the surrounding area) who wants a really good base for a restoration project PLEASE buy this before he scraps it. I'd put it in the CL thread, but not many people outside the jeep community would want this. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=36364 super clean 89 shortbed MJ chassis and bed. It's worth more than that for just the bed. If I had cash, plans for another MJ (I only have plans for two) and the ability to park a third unplated vehicle in my yard I would have already jumped on this. if someone picks it up and hacks it up or does nothing with it or can't decide what the hell to do with it I cut you 
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Jul 9, 2012 20:05
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kastein posted:someone in mass (or the surrounding area) who wants a really good base for a restoration project PLEASE buy this before he scraps it. This is why I need a house.
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Jul 9, 2012 20:14
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Slow is Fast posted:This is why I need a house. yes. yes it is. if you supply a set of license plates you are welcome to store it at my place. just no unplated vehicles... sketchyplated MJs welcome. Hell, park it next to the blue one and when I start converting it to the V8 setup I'll stuff the old drivetrain right in it.
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Jul 9, 2012 20:40
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