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ExecuDork posted:Welp, I didn't succeed in getting under my car this weekend. I did manage to accomplish a trivial task, replacing the air filter. The local parts store charged me just over $40 for that folded piece of paper. I just checked Rockauto, they sell the same one for less than $5. What are you currently using now? That would be a great way to determine what to use. I stick to synthetic, except my old F350, it burned oil, so I just stuck cheap poo poo in it.
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Jul 2, 2012 02:21
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As the 330I in not-black and not salvaged is apparently a rare beast, I'm considering a 540i more and more. The mileage only vaguely concerns me, and I love a good v8 rumble. I have a couple questions: Were heated seats equipped on all of them? It doesn't show as an option on KBB Do they feel big to park? My 328i feels nice and nimble to park, and I like that, as I park in the city.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:27
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Deceptor101 posted:As the 330I in not-black and not salvaged is apparently a rare beast, I'm considering a 540i more and more. The mileage only vaguely concerns me, and I love a good v8 rumble. I have a couple questions: I find the extra foot makes my e34 a pain in the rear end to parallel park. I know it's not really a *big* car by todays standards, but I can get my e36 into super tight spaces with confidence. The long hood and long trunk on the e34 make me only trust really big spaces. Combined with the gas mileage and lack of A/C, I think I'm gonna try to sell it.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:40
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Deceptor101 posted:As the 330I in not-black and not salvaged is apparently a rare beast, I'm considering a 540i more and more. The mileage only vaguely concerns me, and I love a good v8 rumble. I have a couple questions: Having just bought a 540i (and coming from a smaller E36), I think I can answer your questions. Heated seats were an option, I believe with the cold weather package. My car doesn't have them. A ratty 528i I had looked at did have them. It doesn't feel huge to park (easier than the rental Impala I had for two weeks) but it isn't as easy as my E36 was. It's a decently sized car.
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Jul 3, 2012 13:03
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I took my Mini Cooper to an automated carwash on the way home tonight and the scrubbers pulled the driver's side windshield wiper all the way up to a vertical position and I heard a pop. It can now freely move when I pull it around and it won't turn on when I turn on the wipers. Is this something I can fix myself or will I need to take it in for service?
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Jul 5, 2012 04:24
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I'm hoping to pick up a 2002 this weekend. The seller has sent me some pictures of the car and it all seems to look good with the exception of this image. I believe it's the passenger side frame rail, and there's a couple of spots which I'm questioning the originality of. Specifically the dark triangular section as the rail curves down from the engine bay to underneath the car, and the way that there's an obvious shadow cast from the 'lip' of the rail against what I presume is the firewall (I'd have expected that to sit flush with no gap). Haven't had the opportunity to look at the underneath of an 02 up close, so I'm hoping anyone more knowledgeable than myself could give me their opinion on whether this looks fine or is possible cause for concern. 
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Jul 5, 2012 17:20
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BoyMeetsWorld posted:I took my Mini Cooper to an automated carwash on the way home tonight and the scrubbers pulled the driver's side windshield wiper all the way up to a vertical position and I heard a pop. It can now freely move when I pull it around and it won't turn on when I turn on the wipers. If the problem is limited to the wiper arm (likely) it's probably little more than a piece of trim to pop off and a bolt underneath to remove to get the whole arm off. Pick up another at the dealership (or online if you have the time and want to save some cash) and install it in no time. It's likely to be a 5 minute job once the part is in hand. I've never changed one on a Mini, but most are just this simple (with a few exceptions, of course).
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Jul 5, 2012 17:25
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Motronic posted:If the problem is limited to the wiper arm (likely) it's probably little more than a piece of trim to pop off and a bolt underneath to remove to get the whole arm off. Pick up another at the dealership (or online if you have the time and want to save some cash) and install it in no time. Thanks for the advice! I may swing by Mini after work. Since it's on the driver's side I don't want to get stuck in the rain without it.
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Jul 5, 2012 18:48
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Stupid question for a friend; I can't really make a conclusion from my research - what would you say is the most reliable and/or lowest cost to own 3 series? I'm guessing E30, but I've never owned a BMW and have only driven E36s.
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Jul 5, 2012 22:06
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blk posted:Stupid question for a friend; I can't really make a conclusion from my research - what would you say is the most reliable and/or lowest cost to own 3 series? I'm guessing E30, but I've never owned a BMW and have only driven E36s. Having owned an E30, E46 and E90 at one time or another, and having a sibling with an E36, I would say the E30 felt the most "solid" and seemed to have less computer/electronic gizmos that could break. That said, finding a good one for cheap is becoming really hard. E36s seem to be the least well put together, but that is just my personnel opinion. I'd say E46 is probably in the sweet spot right now, being overall pretty reliable and having a large number of available to choose from, and with parts being fairly easy to find.
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Jul 5, 2012 22:18
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If you were to ignore purchase price and availibility of good condition, it would easily be e30 > e36 > e46. These days though, you can get a mint late model e36 for the same price as a mint e30. Throw in another few thousand and you've got an e46. Everyone whines about e36s, but I really think they are solid as hell. My only complaints would be weak window regulators in the coupes, and minor interior niggles. I would buy one again in a heartbeat - I've owned e30/e36/e46 and the e36 really has become my favourite BMW. Just the right mix of features and driving dynamics. Cooling systems are pretty much poo poo on e36/e46 equally. BoyMeetsWorld posted:Thanks for the advice! I may swing by Mini after work. Since it's on the driver's side I don't want to get stuck in the rain without it. If you're going to use a carwash, stick to touchless in the future. The brush washes could have any number of contaminants to gently caress up your paint, and as you discovered they are bad on wiper arms. I still remember working for Avis and our brush wash would literally rip the wiper arms off every single grand am, without exception.
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Jul 5, 2012 22:54
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The M20B25 is such a great engine.
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Jul 6, 2012 15:35
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Thanks for the comments on 5 series. I'm going even more nuts now and considering a 540iT and doing a 6-speed swap. The mechanicals will be dead easy, I just need to figure out the computer stuffs. Anyone on here done that swap? I found some stuff on bimmerforums, but in the case of this, the more info the better.
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Jul 7, 2012 23:53
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Deceptor101 posted:Thanks for the comments on 5 series. I'm going even more nuts now and considering a 540iT and doing a 6-speed swap. The mechanicals will be dead easy, I just need to figure out the computer stuffs. Anyone on here done that swap? I found some stuff on bimmerforums, but in the case of this, the more info the better.
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Jul 8, 2012 00:18
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Lowclock posted:You still haven't mentioned what generation 540 in any of your posts. On an e34 that swap is pretty much changing the park switch for a clutch switch that's already wired and everything, and disconnect like one wire from the harness. On anything after that, good luck. Unless you have the gear and could reprogram whatever modules yourself or know someone who can (not THAT unreasonable), I wouldn't even really consider it. AFAIK there was never an e34 540it, so I would assume he's talking e39. E39 6spd swaps really aren't cheap or easy to do, I would suggest googling it to see what people have had to do.
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Jul 8, 2012 00:56
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Crustashio posted:AFAIK there was never an e34 540it, so I would assume he's talking e39. E39 6spd swaps really aren't cheap or easy to do, I would suggest googling it to see what people have had to do. 
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 00:59
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518i. Hahaha.
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Jul 8, 2012 01:42
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Lowclock posted:You still haven't mentioned what generation 540 in any of your posts. On an e34 that swap is pretty much changing the park switch for a clutch switch that's already wired and everything, and disconnect like one wire from the harness. On anything after that, good luck. Unless you have the gear and could reprogram whatever modules yourself or know someone who can (not THAT unreasonable), I wouldn't even really consider it. Sorry, I totally spaced on that detail. E39, US market too. I've done a bit of googling and while it's not a SUPER common swap, it is done semi-frequently. I'd keep my salvaged E46 328i around until I was done with the swap. Looks like I can grab one for 8-10k, and then parts will run me about $1500-$2000 depending on how lucky I get with a donor car. Then I won't have to worry about the clutch either (because it would be new  ). It seems like If I swapped the cluster and the computer, that would do it, but reprogramming them would also work. Yes the computer parts would be hard, but not that hard. Also it sounds like even if you do only the most basic, you lose cruise and DSC, but otherwise the car will run.
Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 03:06
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Oh, I thought you wanted to not be all hosed up when it's done. Nevermind. Put the old valvebody solenoids in a bag of ATF tied to the crossmemeber, tape the shifter in park under the console, jump the ignition switch to the other side of the starter disable relay and go ramp some poo poo while you get to check out all those warning lights you usually would never get to see!
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Jul 8, 2012 12:48
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That's a pretty no-fun attitude. What I'm saying is the car will drive fine while I work out the two known electrical issues. I was looking to see if anyone had done the swap so I could get more info from a forums I trust to be more sensible than bimmerforums. If you don't have any, that's fine. I think having a 6-speed v8 wagon sounds awesome, and am willing to consider it as an option, even if it has to be a bit more custom.
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Jul 8, 2012 18:37
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I say go for it if you have the spare cash, time and another car or two. When I bought mine last month I had to choose between a 6-speed 540i sedan and an automatic 540i wagon. It was a hard decision but I got the 6-speed and don't regret it. If I had the money and time I would have bought both and combined them into one glorious manual sportwagon. Both were at the same place and even the same price. Also post pictures if you do it. Lots and lots of pictures.
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Jul 8, 2012 18:56
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Came out to the lot after work today to find a puddle of coolant. Welp. Looks like I'm in for the famous E36 80k mile cooling system overhaul! Who's done this themselves, and what kits do you recommend?
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Jul 8, 2012 21:08
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Well, you should never buy URO brand replacement hoses...ask me how I know :-|
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Jul 8, 2012 21:43
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I am trying to recall. The 93 525i is vanos correct? There is a decent looking sedan near me that is for sale with a 5 speed. I know it will be a little slow, but god drat, a 5er with a 5 speed and a 6 cylinder sounds fun as well.
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Jul 8, 2012 22:25
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I am trying to recall. The 93 525i is vanos correct? There is a decent looking sedan near me that is for sale with a 5 speed. I know it will be a little slow, but god drat, a 5er with a 5 speed and a 6 cylinder sounds fun as well. Take it for a drive - you'd probably be surprised at how quick it is. The vanos motors are only down 20hp on the m30. Won't be nearly as torquey, but the mileage will be a hell of a lot better than the big six. Despite having plenty of torque I had to sell the e34 I just bought because the gas mileage was atrocious and I'd rather have a cramped backseat than have to pay the gas cost. On a slightly different topic, are there any e36 (325/328/m3) autocrossers in here? I'm curious what class you run and how competitive it actually is. I'm trying to unload my ZHP for two reasons - no one runs DS around here at all, and it really feels a bit heavy for autoX/track use. I'm mostly looking at m3s, but I'm also curious if the non-Ms can be competitive. I have a 328is commuter car and pretty much love everything about how it drives, but it is way too rusty to use as a summer/track car.
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Jul 9, 2012 00:00
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Crustashio posted:On a slightly different topic, are there any e36 (325/328/m3) autocrossers in here? I'm curious what class you run and how competitive it actually is. I'm trying to unload my ZHP for two reasons - no one runs DS around here at all, and it really feels a bit heavy for autoX/track use. I'm mostly looking at m3s, but I'm also curious if the non-Ms can be competitive. I have a 328is commuter car and pretty much love everything about how it drives, but it is way too rusty to use as a summer/track car. "Competitive" is a slippery term. There's a 2010 Porsche 911 (can't remember the exact trim, but 500 horsepower and AWD) that basically takes FTD every time, but today he placed second after PAX adjustment behind a 240SX in one of the street-prepared classes. It's not uncommon for a mod-class Civic (engine swap, plus lots of other changes), a street-prepared Neon, or a some-weird-class-I-can-never-remember WRX STi to go home with after-PAX times better than the Porsche. That's mostly (entirely) down to the drivers of those cars, rather than the cars themselves. For myself, I'm happy to beat other non-M3 BMWs in PAX-times, and thrilled if I beat one in particular (a Frankensteinian mash-up of e30 and e36 bits wrapped up inside an e30 body); I have yet to beat him in raw times and it's unlikely I will be able to do so without spending some serious money on non-street-legal tires and maybe some other bits, as well as finding the "suck" dial and turning it way down. There was also a 1997 328is, also completely stock, driven by the former course-designer for our club. I heard he took a few years off, but is back at autocross again. I don't know how seriously he's treating it, yet, today he had an enormous slide through the end of the 6-cone slalom, and lots of smoke and fury and wheelspin and back-end-stepping-out all over the course. Fun, but not a way to get good times. Incidentally, one of my fun runs beat my best actual-time by 3/10ths, which I attribute to just saying "gently caress it!" and letting the car step out every time it wanted to - i.e., whenever I pushed the loud pedal extra hard.
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Jul 9, 2012 01:30
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I have a problem with my car and I am having trouble trying to find any info using google. The car is a 2004 330Ci with Auto transmission. The car starts up and idles ok. When driving, it seems like it has trouble shifting, and when I get to around 1800-2200 RPM it kind of acts like its losing power instead of shifting to the next gear. If I depress the throttle as if I was going to accelerate to make a pass, the engine seems to bog down. If I just ease the throttle, it will go up and I had no problem driving it on the highway home. Also, I don't know if this is me just noticing it or if this is a problem, but the MPG needle seems to peg out at the 12 or under side a lot now. The car has about 80k miles. I've owned it for about a year and a half. I had the inspection 2 done at 75k and aside from oil, I have not had any service done. I do not have service history before I bought the car. Any help? Planning on calling a shop a couple blocks from me tomorrow to see what they say, but if you guys have any info that'd be neat.
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Jul 9, 2012 03:34
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Do you get any CEL?
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Jul 9, 2012 04:01
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juche mane posted:Do you get any CEL?
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Jul 9, 2012 04:23
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How do you all you guys feel about CPO BMWs? Worth it?
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Jul 9, 2012 04:58
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Tab8715 posted:How do you all you guys feel about CPO BMWs? Worth it? Between the complete replacement of both turbos, reprogram, and the vanos solenoid within the first 3 weeks of my purchase, the $50 out of pocket for what would have been over 5k of parts and labor seems to have paid off.
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Jul 9, 2012 06:55
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how was a cpo $50?
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Jul 9, 2012 06:56
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His deductible or whatever was $50, not the CPO warranty.
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Jul 9, 2012 07:27
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Well it's pretty ingenuine to say that $50 is all you're paying when the difference is $3k in your purchase price of a CPO vs non CPO. On the flip side to a completely anecdotal evidence. I bought a n54 with 30k miles and now has 70k miles on it and was given the option to CPO it. I chose no and put the money in a separate account in case of problems. So far the water pump died and that's it. Will something else happen in the last 30k miles that the CPO would have covered? Who knows. Also be sure to read the CPO terms cause it doesn't cover a lot of things you think it might. Nitr0 fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 07:52
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Nitr0 posted:Well it's pretty ingenuine to say that $50 is all you're paying when the difference is $3k in your purchase price of a CPO vs non CPO. As far as the problem I posted a few posts above, I had to run the car this morning. When I first turned it on I let it idle for a couple minutes. Not long after it started, there was a bit of a shudder that caused vibration in the car. After that, it seemed to idle like it always has. On the short drive, I noticed no problems but only got up to about 50mph and not over 2500-2800rpm. On my way home, when I started the car, there was another, shorter, shudder at idle and again had no problems on the drive. I'm doubtful this is a problem that's just going to go away, but if I can troubleshoot and fix it myself I'd much rather do that than take it to a shop.
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Jul 9, 2012 16:50
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Nitr0 posted:Well it's pretty ingenuine to say that $50 is all you're paying when the difference is $3k in your purchase price of a CPO vs non CPO. So maybe I should restate: I got new turbos, I didn't have to deal with any bullshit, I got to play around with an f30 demo for a few days and in the end I gave them $50, so it seems to be worth it.
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Jul 9, 2012 18:35
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Any warranty that you end up using is worth it. The ones that expire unused are the bad ones, heh.
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Jul 9, 2012 18:44
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Oh man, Enthusiast Auto has an E34 540i manual-transmission M-sport coming in. LINK Their prices are normally double the market price, but they get such desirable poo poo sometimes that I check their website often. They also have a gorgeous E28 M5 there but it's listed as sale pending. 
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Jul 9, 2012 20:11
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This friday, Im going to look at a 89 325is. 230,000 miles, looks nice, automatic. They guy wants to possibly do an even trade for my 95 volvo 850 turbo. Im looking to get about 2300 for the volvo, so depending on how good the bmw is, i think it may be a good deal. The transmission is a negative though, I want a manual. Ill be looking into swap options, but for now, how bad is the automatic?
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Jul 9, 2012 20:34
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CornHolio posted:Oh man, Enthusiast Auto has an E34 540i manual-transmission M-sport coming in. LINK They had a silver one awhile ago, it was listed for something like 12k, a bit much if you ask me. About the only thing they ever seem close to reasonably priced on are the e36 m3s.
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Jul 9, 2012 20:59
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