|
Most likely blue for the bone area's as it's the most reflective, darker greyish for the remaining fur with a tinge of blue, and likely maroon or dark purple for the wings. No clue about the rotten leg bits. Problem I have is imagining how some colours would be displayed in a bluish moonlight. That and how light or dark I need to make the miniature to get it to fit. I really need to steal my brother's camera and buy a macro lens and then set up a light booth. Thanks for the comment though, appreciated.
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2012 10:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 00:38 |
|
|
Lethemonster posted:A dark wash in the recesses might help out. The colours are nice but there's been a loss of definition between parts and a loss of shadows. Following up on this, there's an issue you're going to run into. Well two issues. One is, no matter what you paint, the actual lighting environment is going to be fluorescent game store overhead lighting. So imitating strong overhead lighting is usually the only form of strong lighting effect which isn't equivalent to pissing into the wind. The other is that moonlight in reality is different than moonlight in perception. In reality, moonlight is washed out yellow, because it's all bounce light from the yellow sun, and effectively is, during a full moon, like shining a flashlight on something from far away. In perception, it's night time, and you tend to perceive blue tones, at least in part because there is a dearth of the strong, pervasive bounce light from the yellow sun we're adapted to consider 'white' during the day. The reality is we're slightly predisposed to favor the color yellow and ignore it, making neutral tones in the dark appear more blue--they aren't actually blue, and the moon's 'cool' appearance is more a product of association with the colder night and the less intense light, in general. When you look at the moon during the night, your eyes start to close their aperture, so when you look back to the dark, all you see is the highest reflective edges. When you're in cover--like trees or something, and not looking directly at the moon, after adjustment, you end up seeing a less distinct version of daylight with less contrast between the deepest shadows and brightest areas. Ironically, from what I've been taught in life drawing, darker lighting environments make shadows less intense, because your eye's ability to differentiate the different levels of lighting isn't overwhelmed by brighter foreground highlights. It's like how if you see a picture of yourself taking a flash photo in a mirror, it looks like a dark monster holding a star in its teeth--but when you turn the flash off, you see that it's just a guy in a christmas sweater. Moon lighting is a matter of, either, subtler contrast overall, and gentler highlighting (sort of like what the skeleton-in-the-dark tutorial is doing, though I feel like that's also confusing the issue by taking a subject that is bright white and standing in the dark--a pain in the rear end to represent visually for all kinds of reasons, not the least because there are two things in conflict; the ease with which you see pure white things at night, and the difficulty with which you see things at night, in general--that's an artistic consideration, not a technical one), or making pitch black stark shadows under any area where the weak overhead source would be obstructed, and keeping your highest level of highlight very weak--using almost no light yellow or white. Also, you want the pale yellow light to predominate over the underlying color--let the moonlight wash out the color of the clothing/flesh/whatever, because in the dark color differentiation is harder. This would help you simulate the idea of the figure being somehow in the dark, because your eyes will be in an environment where there is bright light--rather than dark. The alternative, which might be fun, is to selectively use glow in the dark paint, and play in the dark, or else uv reflective paint, and play under blacklights. In any case, it's a pain to fight the predominant lighting environment where you'll see these things represented. Even the best lighting effect painters make stuff that looks like they spilled red paint everywhere by accident under normal table conditions. It holds up best staged in a light box. And if that's all it has to do, then revert to the low contrast approach.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2012 17:40
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:Following up on this, there's an issue you're going to run into. Well two issues. Thanks for coming back to the Forums: this is incredibly sound and in-depth advice, and talked me right out of a whole "Models at Dawn" idea I had in my head.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2012 20:03
|
|
|
CowOnCrack posted:A big concern of course is what the cheapest option is to get Melta/Flamer bits. I see Flamer bitz on battlewagonbitz for $1.99 each, and GW's web page has 5 meltaguns for $8. Are there any better deals out there? If you know any players who collect the plastic Imperial Guardsmen they should have spare flamers from their sprues all over the place they'll probably give away. Trim away the lasgun barrel and power cell, replace with a a flamer nozzle, done. Meltagun bits may be more problematic since everyone uses their meltaguns (or did during 5th, at least) and you're less likely to find unwanted spares.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2012 22:29
|
|
|
stomp stomp stomp  
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
It's big, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 03:31
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:Awesome info on how light works That is excellent knowledge to know. Now I know it, I am less confident with what I was planning to do. I might now just go for a more moody look to my guys, than attempt to go full on moonlight for them. I am just getting back into the hobby, so I don't think I am at that stage just yet to be attempting something so bold. My initial idea was to paint them from a specific light source direction, and work the shadows out from there, but that is a lot of work for a huge army. Instead I might just go a little darker in some of the tones I use, and leave the moonlight idea until I have a better sense of what I am doing. Idea is to have pieces which showcase a mighty empire of old, fallen to ruin, and the undead which now reside there. And it's a little swampy. If I can manage both those things well enough, I will be happy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 03:44
|
|
|
So, I shut up and used Simple Green (several times!) but these Fire Warriors I got on Ebay still have paint (and primer) on them.   Could I reprime these and get on with painting or do I need to drown these guys on and off for another week in Simple Green? Secondary issue; the paint on the arms in the third picture seems particularly disagreeable. Why would that be? The glue? The shoulders were similarly difficult but workable.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 06:13
|
|
|
If you're in the US, go to Dollar Tree and pick up a quart of LA's Totally Awesome and give that a try.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 06:30
|
|
|
And just like that, Bavius was off on a grand adventure to paint the biggest hunk of resin in his life. A Caestus Assault Ram, tough and ugly and full of casting defects and warping. As he sets off to the garage to prime the interior that almost no one will ever see, he wonders just what hell he hath wrought.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 06:39
|
|
|
ImperialGuard posted:So, I shut up and used Simple Green (several times!) but these Fire Warriors I got on Ebay still have paint (and primer) on them. What the poo poo, when I stripped my Fire Warriors the primer just wouldn't budge.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 10:26
|
|
|
Is Ushabti Bone as greenish as the flyer makes it look? If so, can anyone suggest a decent replacement for the old GW Bleached Bone?
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 10:42
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:Is Ushabti Bone as greenish as the flyer makes it look? If so, can anyone suggest a decent replacement for the old GW Bleached Bone?
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 10:54
|
|
|
http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/putties.html I did a thing that may or may not be useful. It's a precursor to a post about an experiment with my materials that I've been doing. It has some pretty sculpts in it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 12:15
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:Is Ushabti Bone as greenish as the flyer makes it look? If so, can anyone suggest a decent replacement for the old GW Bleached Bone? This thing recommends VMC Buff. I haven't tried that myself, but VMC Pale Sand is pretty close.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 12:29
|
|
|
Thank you both for the paint suggestions, and thanks for the link.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 12:31
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:Is Ushabti Bone as greenish as the flyer makes it look? If so, can anyone suggest a decent replacement for the old GW Bleached Bone? I ruffled through my paints and did a swatch of some near colours on a piece of primed paper. I also tried to take a photo but its so bright here atm that I can't get anything to come out properly.  P3 Menoth white base is the closest, but bleached bone has a more yellow cast to it. It's only slight though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:02
|
|
|
ijyt posted:What the poo poo, when I stripped my Fire Warriors the primer just wouldn't budge. I'm having the same problem as you guys though mine are an assortment of 40k and fantasy. I tried simple green concentrated apc for 3 weeks and while a few came off alright with a heavy scrubbing most were nowhere near clean enough. I tried Super Clean, purple degreaser after a recommendation ITT and after over a week while it certainly seemed like it was working better, they still have a ton of work left on them. I'm willing to try another product that won't melt plastic. I've been using a toothbrush and an electric toothbrush. I'm not sure which one works better. I'll see if I can get a super firm brush; it feels like I'm polishing them sometimes instead of tearing the paint off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:25
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:I ruffled through my paints and did a swatch of some near colours on a piece of primed paper. I also tried to take a photo but its so bright here atm that I can't get anything to come out properly. Wow, thanks for doing that! The Menoth white looks close enough.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:28
|
|
|
I tried a brass bristle brush on the metal Chaos Terminators I got last week, the paint came right off, down to the metal. This is with the Dettol disinfectant clone 'All in 1' from Aldi (which is in the States now). I wouldn't try the brass brush on plastic, but I cut down an old toothbrush so it's about half height, and hopefully a lot stiffer on the paint. I've learned that leaning over the kitchen sink to do the brushing, etc...is extremely bad for your back. Use a work table, kids! I also haven't been able to try my electric toothbrush yet, and I'm trying to hold off using a needle to get right down into the crevices, since I'm not sure there's any need to get EVERY tiny scrap of paint off, at least way down deep.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:36
|
|
|
Menoth White Base is one of my favorite paints. It covers really well for such a light color. Menoth White Highlight, as well documented by my post history, might be my favorite paint ever.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:37
|
|
|
Are there any other P3 paints you'd recommend, particularly ones that plug holes in the old GW range (all i currently have)? Everywhere in the UK wants silly shipping for a single pot, so i might as well get a few at once. I'm after quite a muted blue/grey or darkish blue to paint some Silurid with in particular., but welcome any suggestions.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 13:50
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:I wouldn't try the brass brush on plastic, but I cut down an old toothbrush so it's about half height, and hopefully a lot stiffer on the paint. I swear, there was a time in my life when I was this creative. Thanks for the suggestion.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:01
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:Are there any other P3 paints you'd recommend, particularly ones that plug holes in the old GW range (all i currently have)? Everywhere in the UK wants silly shipping for a single pot, so i might as well get a few at once. I'm after quite a muted blue/grey or darkish blue to paint some Silurid with in particular., but welcome any suggestions. Frostbite is amazing, its an extremely light blue. Very good for aquilas and chapter symbols. I like sulphuric yellow as well i dont think you can find a gw match.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:06
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:Frostbite is amazing, its an extremely light blue. Very good for aquilas and chapter symbols. I rarely use yellows but that Frostbite might be a useful colour. Does anyone know what the dark blue/grey that Bachtere used on his Mid-Nor is?
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:12
|
|
|
Skorne red, cryx bane highlight are also colors I use a ton.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:33
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:I rarely use yellows but that Frostbite might be a useful colour. I only have a few but I'll swatch those next to some GW paints this afternoon. Any GW paints you want to replace in particular? Also if you're ordering from the UK Gifts for Geeks are a cool store. P3 sell boxes of 6 paints together based around each group in the game. http://giftsforgeeks.org.uk/shop/tabletop-wargames|privateer-press|p3-paints/ Their store is a few miles from me at uni and run by really nice guys. There is also a little doggy that runs round the shop being super cute so I'm kindof biased. He's not supposed to go on the shop floor but I give him chin scratchies. :3 This box set has the reds in (everyone raves about P3 red paints) and the menoth white colours. http://giftsforgeeks.org.uk/shop/tabletop-wargames|privateer-press|p3-paints/product/908254539/protectorate-of-menoth-paint-set/ Their coal black is also very popular - it has a slight blue/grey tinge to it making it easier to shade and highlight than straight black. Necrotite green is also excellent but isn't an everyday usage type colour. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Jul 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
SatelliteCore posted:I swear, there was a time in my life when I was this creative. Thanks for the suggestion. :3 dawww... I just can't throw anything away, and you can never have too many old toothbrushes. Actually I want to get one to cut the bristles, narrow the head and also shave the head down so it's easier to scrub between a model's legs - it's a total pain to get in there. And while I'm at it the head could be shaved to a point to make it kind of like a pan scraper that some dish scrubbers have - that would save time swapping to a toothpick or carving tool. The paint often won't come off with the bristles, but touch it with a fingernail or a tool and it flakes right off.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 14:58
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:I only have a few but I'll swatch those next to some GW paints this afternoon. Any GW paints you want to replace in particular? Possibly the mid/dark blues, like Regal Blue, or the mid/dark greens like Woodland/Emerald Green, Dark Angels Green etc. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:09
|
|
|
Lungboy posted:Are there any other P3 paints you'd recommend, particularly ones that plug holes in the old GW range (all i currently have)? Everywhere in the UK wants silly shipping for a single pot, so i might as well get a few at once. I'm after quite a muted blue/grey or darkish blue to paint some Silurid with in particular., but welcome any suggestions. Coal Black and Menoth White Highlight are must haves. I use Meridius blue a fuckload, too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:17
|
|
|
Meredius blue is amazing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:18
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Meredius blue is amazing. Tell me about it. I can't by p3 paints in any local shops and my dog chewed my pot of it and I needed it to finish painting my friend's army and I almost loving cried. Hawk Turquoise just doesn't cut it. I really cannot recommend coal black enough if you are painting black. You will get a really clean crisp looking black with this paint for your black highlights, then a super thing edge highlight of fortress grey or whatever its equivalent is now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:23
|
|
|
Arcane Blue if you want to paint power weapons using cheat mode.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:27
|
|
|
Big Willy Style posted:Tell me about it. I can't by p3 paints in any local shops and my dog chewed my pot of it and I needed it to finish painting my friend's army and I almost loving cried. Hawk Turquoise just doesn't cut it. I have been painting lemartes and i always have trouble with black. Anyways i did a 50 50 mix of black and regal blue as the base, adding fortress grey to the mix for the highlights. Worked a treat.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:32
|
|
|
How does Exile Blue compare to Necron Abyss? I really want a darker blue than Necron as they discontinued Marine Dark Blue which was awesome, and replaced it with Midnight which was wank and then Necron which is barely darker than Regal. No idea what the current base is like.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:37
|
|
|
SatelliteCore posted:I'm having the same problem as you guys though mine are an assortment of 40k and fantasy. I tried simple green concentrated apc for 3 weeks and while a few came off alright with a heavy scrubbing most were nowhere near clean enough. I tried Super Clean, purple degreaser after a recommendation ITT and after over a week while it certainly seemed like it was working better, they still have a ton of work left on them. A few fine fellows in this thread mentioned that primer spray can bind/seep/stain in to the plastic, so we might have simply done a really good spray job.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 16:38
|
|
|
Lung, the new Caliban green looks like it might get pretty close to DA Green after a glaze or two of Waywatcher Green. It'll be less glossy as well. I hated the random glossiness of the old GW line.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 16:40
|
|
|
Glossiness shouldn't have been an issue because you should be varnishing, mister.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 16:48
|
|
|
Maybe I'm weird, but I hate glossiness while I'm painting. Not as much as I hate paints that seem to go 'off' and settle while they're on the palette though. gently caress you Camouflage Green, you strange waxy poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 16:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 00:38 |
|
|
Its an issue with a lot of paints. Some miniature paints have varnish additives to make them stronger, but also creates shininess. Im starting (begrudgingly) to matte varnish after the model is about half painted, and so far its really helping. Its a lot easier to see your layers and blends when there isnt a shiny coat on top of them. Id only do the matte during painting thing on characters though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 17:10
|
|