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This is a dumb question but anyway: are there attachable waist level finders for any 35mm cameras? Maybe even for old Canon bodies? I really want to shoot at waist level but can't get into MF in the long run
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# ? Jul 6, 2012 23:54 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:24 |
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You can get WLFs for the original Nikon F, but they aren't very common. http://www.cameraquest.com/nfinder.htm
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 00:03 |
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Also Pentax LX, though those are pretty pricey. The light meter isn't part of the viewfinder so you can always use it, regardless of which of the 8 different viewfinders you have on it. http://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-lx.html I remember a childhood friend of mine, son of a professional photographer, showing me one of his father's cameras when we were about 13 years old. You could remove the pentaprism and show the screen exposed, which was basically a piece of ground glass about as big as a 35mm frame and had the image in-focus. This feature was explained to me as a way to use your camera while holding it on a stick directly above your head, for example when shooting from a crowd. I seem to remember it was a Hasselblad of some kind, and I'm 99% sure it was 35mm. Might have been a Pentax LX, I suppose, my googling for Hasselblad 35mm isn't turning up anything like it.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 00:33 |
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nemoulette posted:This is a dumb question but anyway: are there attachable waist level finders for any 35mm cameras? Maybe even for old Canon bodies? I really want to shoot at waist level but can't get into MF in the long run You could get a Yashica T4 Super D with the Super Scope, but those are expensive now because of the T-Rich Tax.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 00:38 |
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Pop the finder off a beater F3, tape down backside edge of ground glass, profit?
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 01:22 |
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The lighting thread seems to be ignoring my question so I'm posting this here as well, maybe someone has an answer for me. So it seems like people are recommending two manual hot shoe flashes in the Dorkroom in general: the Vivatar 285hv and (I think) Yongnuo YN-560. I'm looking to get a couple of these to start practicing some studio lighting. What are the differences between these two and which (if either) would you guys recommend? Of course I'll also need stands, umbrellas/softboxes, clamps, and all that stuff. Does anyone have any brand recommendations for the various non-strobe equipment I need to get?
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 03:38 |
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I just got a Yongnuo YN-560II and I've really enjoyed it.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 04:48 |
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Thanks dudes, seems like getting into MF is the most feasible option after all.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 08:10 |
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Mr. Despair posted:I just got a Yongnuo YN-560II and I've really enjoyed it. I got one of these on Ambihelical Hexnut's recommendation and it's been great. I got the Yongnuo wireless trigger too and they work perfectly.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 16:42 |
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Why get something like a Yongnuo instead of a Nikon or Canon flash? I see the word "manual", but how does that translate in real world situations? I don't know anything about the world of lighting, but I've been considering getting one of the Canon Speedlites. Edit: sorry. I'll be reading the lighting thread as well Dudebro fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 7, 2012 |
# ? Jul 7, 2012 17:35 |
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Dudebro posted:Why get something like a Yongnuo instead of a Nikon or Canon flash? I see the word "manual", but how does that translate in real world situations? I don't know anything about the world of lighting, but I've been considering getting one of the Canon Speedlites. It's largely cost reasons. If you're only shooting M then there's no need for some of the advanced features of name brand speedlites. I however use ettl quite a bit so for me I prefer having a flash that talks nicely to my camera!
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 17:44 |
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Dudebro posted:Why get something like a Yongnuo instead of a Nikon or Canon flash? I see the word "manual", but how does that translate in real world situations? I don't know anything about the world of lighting, but I've been considering getting one of the Canon Speedlites. Manual flash is very easy to get used to. I have shot a ton of events on DSLRs with old Nikon SB-26s in manual mode. I just toss an omnibounce on, point it at the ceiling, set the flash on 1/4 (to start), and adjust the aperture for distance. Just chimp frequently and you quickly get a feel for how much light you need at what distances.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 18:21 |
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Dudebro posted:Why get something like a Yongnuo instead of a Nikon or Canon flash? It can meet most peoples needs at a quarter of the cost with no compromise in the final image. e: I had a SB-900 for a while but I realized I was using it in manual almost 100% of the time which was a waste of all the features I wasn't using but still paid for plus the brand premium. I sold it a year ago and got a YN560II. Much happier now. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jul 7, 2012 |
# ? Jul 7, 2012 18:53 |
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Dudebro posted:Why get something like a Yongnuo instead of a Nikon or Canon flash? I see the word "manual", but how does that translate in real world situations? I don't know anything about the world of lighting, but I've been considering getting one of the Canon Speedlites. For what I'm using it for I can just set it once and forget it, so the cost savings were awesome. Heck, normally when I'm shooting the camera can't meter right anyways, so why not shoot the rest in manual.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 19:13 |
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Well, I'm almost always using my camera in manual. I would only switch to auto if a time sensitive situation arises. So the advantages of a first party flash only really come out if you use usually your camera in auto mode?
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 21:13 |
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Dudebro posted:So the advantages of a first party flash only really come out if you use usually your camera in auto mode? More or less. Do you want to be in control of flash output power or do you want the camera to do that for you? Even some of the cheaper 3rd party flashes still have automatic features at a fraction of the cost of first party. At the same power output and aim, you're not going to see the difference between a good 3rd and 1st party flash. There's no loss of quality in flash color or light uniformity or the number of flashes per charge. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jul 7, 2012 |
# ? Jul 7, 2012 21:16 |
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Dudebro posted:Well, I'm almost always using my camera in manual. I would only switch to auto if a time sensitive situation arises. Not really. When I use ETTL my camera is manual but my flash is auto so it gives me freedom to move around easier as I don't have to readjust my camera settings according to the distance from the subject if I move.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 21:33 |
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Would it be possible to use my Olympus FL-36 (designed for 4/3 DSLR's) on a Nikon D60 in manual mode, without risking damage to the camera or flash?
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 21:58 |
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nemoulette posted:This is a dumb question but anyway: are there attachable waist level finders for any 35mm cameras? Maybe even for old Canon bodies? I really want to shoot at waist level but can't get into MF in the long run Apparently they were available for the Icarex 35 at some point, but good luck finding one. I've always wanted a WLF in 35mm too.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 22:04 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:Apparently they were available for the Icarex 35 at some point, but good luck finding one. I've always wanted a WLF in 35mm too. Some Exaktas had them as well. Or get a Yashica T4 which is a point and shoot with a WLF.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 22:08 |
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Does the Yashica really have a WLF though? After a quick google image search it just looking like a regular point and shoot brilliant viewfinder with a mirror.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 22:42 |
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Augmented Dickey posted:Does the Yashica really have a WLF though? After a quick google image search it just looking like a regular point and shoot brilliant viewfinder with a mirror. Not TTL, no, but still a waist level finder of sorts. Kind of like a TLR.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 22:55 |
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Don't forget the Pentax LX. Sure as hell can't afford the 500 dollars to buy it though. At that point, I'd buy an Mamiya RZ or something... I guess the smaller viewfinder might make it less fun than MF, but then again, I'm filthy pentamirror rebel scum, and it might actually be really nice to use in person regardless. Edit: Photos pulled from Flickr from someone who has nice things to make my post seem less dull. Pentax LX FF-1 Waist-Level Finder - Top w/ magnifier by androonguyen, on Flickr Pentax LX w/ Pentax LX FF-1 Waist-Level Finder Closed by androonguyen, on Flickr Trambopaline fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Jul 9, 2012 |
# ? Jul 9, 2012 11:47 |
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nemoulette posted:This is a dumb question but anyway: are there attachable waist level finders for any 35mm cameras? Maybe even for old Canon bodies? I really want to shoot at waist level but can't get into MF in the long run For waist level shooting, the Canon Angle Finder C is a fantastic accessory that I am constantly using when I need to shoot from a lower vantage point. It is compatible with all of your Canon DSLRs.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 19:39 |
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Wow, apparently my homeowners insurance is going to offer to either replace my stolen old Leica gear with brand new stuff from B&H, or give a payout based on depreciated values. Still waiting for the replacement list, but from what they told me on the phone, I'm guessing that means I'll end up with a new M7 to replace my 50 year old M2. I almost feel guilty accepting it.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 20:55 |
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FasterThanLight posted:Wow, apparently my homeowners insurance is going to offer to either replace my stolen old Leica gear with brand new stuff from B&H, or give a payout based on depreciated values. Still waiting for the replacement list, but from what they told me on the phone, I'm guessing that means I'll end up with a new M7 to replace my 50 year old M2. I almost feel guilty accepting it. Make sure your premiums don't skyrocket because of the claim. Not sure exactly how those sorts of things work, but if you get $3000 worth of gear but your next year of premiums cost you an additional $5000, it's worth just eating the loss.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 21:03 |
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Shmoogy posted:Make sure your premiums don't skyrocket because of the claim. Not sure exactly how those sorts of things work, but if you get $3000 worth of gear but your next year of premiums cost you an additional $5000, it's worth just eating the loss. If insurance worked like this, nobody would have insurance.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 21:07 |
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FasterThanLight posted:Wow, apparently my homeowners insurance is going to offer to either replace my stolen old Leica gear with brand new stuff from B&H, or give a payout based on depreciated values. Still waiting for the replacement list, but from what they told me on the phone, I'm guessing that means I'll end up with a new M7 to replace my 50 year old M2. I almost feel guilty accepting it. I suggest you get the "other" M7, the Mamiya 7. The lenses'll blow your Leica stuff out of the water, it's a rangefinder so it's a similar idea, and oh god I want one so bad please live vicariously for me
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 21:29 |
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Legdiian posted:If insurance worked like this, nobody would have insurance. Paul MaudDib posted:I suggest you get the "other" M7, the Mamiya 7. The lenses'll blow your Leica stuff out of the water, it's a rangefinder so it's a similar idea, and oh god I want one so bad please live vicariously for me
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 22:15 |
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edit: answered in OP
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 22:24 |
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signalnoise posted:I have a lens that is too long to steady with my hands. What should I look for in a good tripod? Any names to watch out for? Tripod thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3390180 I like my Giottos.
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# ? Jul 10, 2012 22:27 |
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I'm planning on backpacking Europe in a couple weeks and I want to have a nice camera + 1 lens to take with me. I have an old Rebel XT and I could buy the Tamron 17-50, which would be my cheapest option. I've also been looking at the mirrorless cameras, and I could get the a m4/3 camera + 17mm Olympus lens, or the Sony NEX-5N, but I can't find anything but the kit lens that would make for a nice walk around. Other options include buying a nicer, used Canon body + Tamron 17-50. I'm also open to P&S options. I'd like to spend as little as money as possible, with an upper limit of $800. Any ideas goons?
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 00:07 |
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Canon 40D + Tamron 17-50 + a nice ballhead and plate. The m4/3 option doesn't sound bad either, 35mm is a very usable focal length.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 00:17 |
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Completely serious (albeit unlikely) suggestion: Pentax ME Super + 50mm + as much film as you can fit in your pockets. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jul 11, 2012 |
# ? Jul 11, 2012 00:31 |
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Martytoof posted:Completely serious (albeit unlikely) suggestion: Pentax ME Super + 50mm + as much film as you can fit in your pockets. Seconding this suggestion. Even if you buy something else spend 50 bucks and get yourself an ME Super, lens, and 5 packs of film to bring with you.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 00:45 |
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It seems like a long shot, but does such a thing exist as a way to charge a camera battery (that normally plugs into a wall outlet) through a USB port? I can find plenty of options for going the other way. I know a USB outlet is going to put out a small fraction of even the trickle charge that a battery charger normally draws, but something that would let me keep my batteries topped up using this thing (or something like it) on a week-long canoe trip I'm planning would be very handy. EDIT: Regarding trips and the ME Super. Yes, that's a pretty good idea, but personally I'd be more comfortable with a DSLR. But bring a ME Super and a handfull of film anyways, it's always good to have a backup.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 05:41 |
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ExecuDork posted:It seems like a long shot, but does such a thing exist as a way to charge a camera battery (that normally plugs into a wall outlet) through a USB port? I can find plenty of options for going the other way. If you're feeling really creative, you could try to build a DC charger out of an AC charger. It's dangerous and a bad idea, but on the other hand, MacGyver was a fun show. This cable should supply the necessary power. Bob Socko fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jul 11, 2012 |
# ? Jul 11, 2012 06:46 |
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Bob Socko posted:I don't think it will work. USB ports output a very small amount of DC power (5 volts, .5 amps), whereas wall outlets put out a much larger amount of AC power (110-120 volts, 15-20 amps). Even if you converted the USB output to AC power through a voltage converter, it's not going to have anywhere near as much power as the charger is expecting. I would not expect the charger to function, or if it does, it won't work in any meaningful way. The same would be true for pretty much anything you plugged in, so that's probably why no one has built such an adapter. Well, the charger is not going to pull any 15 amps from your 120v outlet. I just grabbed my 7d charger and it uses 0.21 amps at 120v. But yeah, even that is about 5x what USB can supply.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 06:56 |
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Well, the charger is not going to pull any 15 amps from your 120v outlet. I just grabbed my 7d charger and it uses 0.21 amps at 120v. But yeah, even that is about 5x what USB can supply.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 09:11 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:24 |
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ExecuDork posted:It seems like a long shot, but does such a thing exist as a way to charge a camera battery (that normally plugs into a wall outlet) through a USB port? I can find plenty of options for going the other way. For a week's travel, I'd just buy a handful of third-party batteries. Three spare batteries should cover a week of shooting (depending on your throughput) and take up about as much space as a charger. Probably cheaper than a fancy-pants charger, too. Alternatively, buy a battery grip that takes AA batteries and use a USB AA-battery charger. In theory it will work - in practise you'd probably spend more time fartign around and trying to get a full set of charged batteries than you will shooting.
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# ? Jul 11, 2012 11:16 |