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juche mane posted:Came out to the lot after work today to find a puddle of coolant. Welp. Looks like I'm in for the famous E36 80k mile cooling system overhaul! Highly, highly recommend this kit, it's just outstanding for the price: http://www.bimmerzone.com/BMW_Parts_Cooling_Package/PKG-E36-COOLING-ALUM.html This kit sidesteps most of the issues with the factory cooling system and should be good for 100k miles or more. I have done the process on three separate E36s and can answer just about any question you have. I highly recommend purchasing spare radiator clips (BMW P/N 17111723341) from the dealer or online shop. You will need a skinny 32mm wrench, also known as a headset wrench available at any local bikeshop or online. The process is very straightforward and is well documented in DIYs online. Stardotstar fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 9, 2012 22:12
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I have a problem with my car and I am having trouble trying to find any info using google. I have an 04 325xi, and have the same issue it appears. I have been lead to believe its the VANOS seals. I called my dealership today about it, and they want to check it out before they'll tell me if it's covered under warranty. When I read the symptoms part of this VANOS Replacement, it was exactly what my car is doing.
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Jul 10, 2012 00:29
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ExecuDork posted:I ran my 1996 328is, bone stock, in autocross today. Final results haven't been posted, but I was happy with my times and had lots of fun. I'm in class F-stock. Better tires would make the biggest difference, though an LSD and some general clean-up (under the hood, and suspension) would be helpful, too. Hah, I'm definitely not looking to beat 911s and such. I just want something to maybe run in STX/STU/DSP/CSP where there are actually some cars to compete against. Sometimes I'm literally the only D-stock entry. Our club also doesn't do PAX so I ended up just trying to better a DSP 325is to make myself feel better. I've actually had my 328is out and it seemed pretty fun, but it really does need the LSD. I've been lusting after m3s but I'm not sure if it's worth it around here. 12-15k for a good example, then running it in slaloms and a 1.6km roadcourse that is almost all about handling. A nice 328i looks to be about 5-6k which leaves a ton of room for overhaul and modification. I priced out decent coilovers + an LSD for my ZHP and I could probably BUY the 328 for that. I've already got a feeler out to one in montreal, but it's probably sold by now:  Stupid wheels, but green e36 sedans are awesome.
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Jul 10, 2012 01:01
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Binge posted:I have an 04 325xi, and have the same issue it appears. I have been lead to believe its the VANOS seals. I called my dealership today about it, and they want to check it out before they'll tell me if it's covered under warranty. You mention warranty...do you have an extended warranty? Or is this something that anyone can call a dealership about and they might cover it more like a service bulletin or a recall? I guess I'll call the closest dealership tomorrow and see what they have to say. Crustachio: That is an awesome looking car, shame about the wheels but I agree that color suits it quite nicely.
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Jul 10, 2012 01:37
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VANOS seals aren't covered under any sort of recall/warranty (that I know of), and dealer replacement really isn't the ideal option - they use the same seals that caused the problem in the first place. The best options are to either rebuild the unit yourself (http://www.beisansystems.com/) or get a refurb unit with the aftermarket seals, and install it yourself (http://www.drvanos.com/). E46 vanos is fairly DIY friendly, no re-timing necessary like the e36. Or if you aren't willing to DIY it, a shop could probably install either kit for a fraction of dealer labour cost. Of course, get someone to diagnose it before you spend the money.
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Jul 10, 2012 02:06
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Stardotstar posted:Highly, highly recommend this kit, it's just outstanding for the price: Thanks much! It's out of stock but drat, I can see why. That's a great price and more new parts than any of the other kits I've come across.
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Jul 10, 2012 02:11
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Crustashio posted:VANOS seals aren't covered under any sort of recall/warranty (that I know of), and dealer replacement really isn't the ideal option - they use the same seals that caused the problem in the first place. The best options are to either rebuild the unit yourself (http://www.beisansystems.com/) or get a refurb unit with the aftermarket seals, and install it yourself (http://www.drvanos.com/). Oh I would never let the dealer do such a thing. I called today for the hell of it to see if the warranty I purchased through them when I bought the car (almost a year ago) happened to cover it. They didn't know and had to call me back. When they did, they said the warranty company needs the problem verified before they'll tell me. Which sounds hopeful. Obviously they aren't just taking my word for it, and they wouldn't go through the trouble if it wasn't a possibility. At the very least, they're giving me a loaner car for the day. The last time I got a 2011 328xi. Is it wrong that I feel awkward or something, that they're gonna do all this work, not charge me (since this is just the diagnosis, I'm assuming), and I get to drive around all day in an 8+ year newer model car. I found a BMW repair/race prep garage, that I would bring it to. I read through their entire DIY guide, and it scares the hell out of me. I've never done work like that on a car, and I don't think that's something I should dive into for my first real car fixer up. edit - Would the complete kit from DrVanos be easier to do than the Beisan guide? Seems like the hardest part was taking the VANOS itself apart, and the DrVanos is just a whole new one you slap on? Binge fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jul 10, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 02:58
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Crustashio posted:
IDK, I kinda dig those wheels. That car is clean as gently caress.
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Jul 10, 2012 03:18
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Binge posted:Oh I would never let the dealer do such a thing. I called today for the hell of it to see if the warranty I purchased through them when I bought the car (almost a year ago) happened to cover it. They didn't know and had to call me back. When they did, they said the warranty company needs the problem verified before they'll tell me. Which sounds hopeful. Obviously they aren't just taking my word for it, and they wouldn't go through the trouble if it wasn't a possibility. At the very least, they're giving me a loaner car for the day. The last time I got a 2011 328xi. Is it wrong that I feel awkward or something, that they're gonna do all this work, not charge me (since this is just the diagnosis, I'm assuming), and I get to drive around all day in an 8+ year newer model car. Are you sure you won't be charged for diagnostics? I've seen a lot of warranties where diagnostic fees aren't covered if the repair itself isn't covered.
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Jul 10, 2012 12:07
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Binge posted:edit - Would the complete kit from DrVanos be easier to do than the Beisan guide? Seems like the hardest part was taking the VANOS itself apart, and the DrVanos is just a whole new one you slap on? I recently did the Beisan seals and rattle fixes on my E36/S52 and the actual VANOS disassembly/repair is trivial - if you have all the right tools, which I ended up buying from the vendors suggested on the Beisan instruction pages. If I didn't have big ideas that I'd be fixing other VANOS cars, I'd probably have not bought all the tools required for the Beisan method and just called DrVanos - they have nicely integrated tools-rental options.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:27
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Chinatown posted:IDK, I kinda dig those wheels. That car is clean as gently caress. Agreed, they aren't terrible.
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Jul 10, 2012 22:27
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DrVanos is a whole vanos you bolt on and comes with proper gasket and everything. I did that route since I didn't have a vice and all that and was feeling a bit lazy. If you go that route the process is quite simple and just unbolting down to the valve cover and vanos and there are no real trouble spots if you take your time. It can be a bit messy as a bunch of oil spills from the vanos. And if you're like me the VCG has become solid and brittle and has fused to your plastic valve cover which will then fracture and waste 3 days of your time (on a car with <60k). Someone probably already said to but I will say anyway you should do plugs and VCG while you do vanos job if they haven't been done in a while.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:01
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Is the thermostat sensor in that vicinity as well? I need to replace that, and if it's close by I may as well get it over with. The BMW garage I talked to said they'd fix the VANOS for 70/hr +60 parts. I think at this point, after watching a lot of youtube videos on it, I want to do it myself, and replace the VCG/plugs/Thermostat/VANOS. It would be like a whole new car again and I'd probably learn a boatload about my engine in the process. Next, I just need to figure out whats rattling on my rear end, and the vehicle will be in perfect shape. Well other than needing new tires, and brakes coming up soon, oh god it doesn't end. But it's so worth it.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:16
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Binge posted:The BMW garage I talked to said they'd fix the VANOS for 70/hr +60 parts. I think at this point, after watching a lot of youtube videos on it, I want to do it myself, and replace the VCG/plugs/Thermostat/VANOS. It would be like a whole new car again and I'd probably learn a boatload about my engine in the process. Keep in mind that the DrVanos/Beisan fixes don't just repair the seals and rattling - they improve on the core design by spec'ing more durable seal materials and a custom bearing ring. So if the shop just used OEM parts, the problem could return while you still have the car. Any DIY action that fixes stuff AND improves an underlying design is irresistible for me! I definitely learned a boatload about my engine - whole thing was pretty fun. Make sure to replace your valve cover gaskets while in there.
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Jul 10, 2012 23:38
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Anyone have experience with dash clusters that are mostly not working? My 1600 cab has a e30 m3 dash in it (my dad did that swap). The speedometer works fine, aside from needing to be re-calibrated due to the smaller wheels. The tach isn't accurate and it kind of shakes. The temp gauge appears mostly accurate, but it also shakes until the engine warms up. The oil temp is totally off (may not even be connected for all I know) and the fuel gauge stays at full for a looooong time then begins to dive quickly towards empty once you've used about half a tank. I'm hoping it's just the connections to the PCB and not the board itself. Any common problems that you guys are familiar with? Another question I have is regarding the cooling. The s14 runs pretty hot, which from what I've read isn't totally out of the ordinary for that kind of swap. It's got an electric fan going to a auto/manual toggle switch (set to always on). The water pump is a machined down version of the e30 pump and I believe the radiator is out of the donor m3. As soon as I hit a stop light, the engine starts to heat up. I've read that going to a mix of 50-50 water and coolant or even 85 water 15 coolant can really help the engine run cooler. Any truth to this? I'm not sure what's in there now. My dad seemed to think it was more coolant than water but couldn't be sure. Are there any other baseline things I should be checking/thinking about?
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Jul 11, 2012 04:47
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littlewing posted:the engine starts to heat up What does this mean in actual numbers? If it's within operating specs and stays that way there's nothing wrong with that and it's quite expected. If it's cruising into the 230s you have a serious problem that no coolant/water mix is going to take care of on its own (radiator too small, airflow insufficient, water flow insufficient in that general order of likelihood).
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Jul 11, 2012 15:10
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Motronic posted:What does this mean in actual numbers? If it's within operating specs and stays that way there's nothing wrong with that and it's quite expected. If it's cruising into the 230s you have a serious problem that no coolant/water mix is going to take care of on its own (radiator too small, airflow insufficient, water flow insufficient in that general order of likelihood). What would I need to do to get an actual number?
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Jul 11, 2012 18:25
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littlewing posted:What would I need to do to get an actual number? An actual temp gauge with numbers. Sucks but that's the only way to do it.
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Jul 11, 2012 18:59
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littlewing posted:What would I need to do to get an actual number? Any decent OBDII reader capable of live data will do it. So will a scangauge or an ultragauge.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:37
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Will it be able to pull that info from pre-OBD2 stuff? I know on my E30 dash, the temperature gauge would be all funky until I pulled it out and tightened the ground on the back of the temp gauge and gas gauge.
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Jul 11, 2012 20:06
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BrokenKnucklez posted:An actual temp gauge with numbers. Sucks but that's the only way to do it.
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Jul 11, 2012 20:21
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Wow, I was completely thinking of something else....
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Jul 11, 2012 20:27
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Lightbulb Out posted:Will it be able to pull that info from pre-OBD2 stuff? I know on my E30 dash, the temperature gauge would be all funky until I pulled it out and tightened the ground on the back of the temp gauge and gas gauge. Oh, thats right, you aren't OBDII. DIS or a separate manual gauge are probably the right answers, but an IR thermometer just might suffice for a quick idea of what's going on.
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Jul 11, 2012 20:44
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As with others on the internet, I've been getting (for a while, I've just ignored them) a CEL light, with the OBDII readings being P1188 and P1189. I had one of the O2 sensors replaced about a year ago, and replaced the MAF (which needed to be done as the car was having trouble idling) about 9 months ago. I wouldn't care too much about this since the car runs flawlessly, except I'm due for an emissions test. This is on a 1999 M3 with ~148k mi on it. From looking around, it's sounding like the most likely component is the CCV, which was also my mechanic's guess. So, my question: We're going to clear the codes with the car warm tomorrow morning so I can drive up to the emissions place and see if I can pass my test before the light comes back on. Assuming this works (when we've reset the codes before it usually takes a few hours to a day for it to come back on), am I hurting the car by waiting another few months to replace the CCV?
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Jul 11, 2012 23:06
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Kenshin posted:As with others on the internet, I've been getting (for a while, I've just ignored them) a CEL light, with the OBDII readings being P1188 and P1189. I had one of the O2 sensors replaced about a year ago, and replaced the MAF (which needed to be done as the car was having trouble idling) about 9 months ago. I wouldn't care too much about this since the car runs flawlessly, except I'm due for an emissions test.
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Jul 11, 2012 23:51
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Krakkles posted:Depending on where you are, this probably won't work. There's a flag they check in the ECU that tells them how long it's been since the codes were cleared, and it's considered a failure if it's not long enough (which is something like "a few hours to a day"). The car has to go through a certain number of run cycles until all of the sensors return 'ready', which is what fails you (the not ready part).
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Jul 11, 2012 23:56
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Is there a way to clear airbag codes via OBDII? I've got a USB and my buddy has Carsoft software which seems to maybe have an option to clear codes but I'm not sure of there's an SRS tool or interface specifically for it. I've gotta get inspected by the end of the month and I don't imagine I'll pass with that light. Stupid me pulled my seats to clean red wine puke but left the keys in the ignition
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Jul 11, 2012 23:56
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If you have a 20 pin diag port under the hood you have to use that, not the connector under the dash. Carsoft can do this (and sucks).
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Jul 12, 2012 00:07
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Krakkles posted:Depending on where you are, this probably won't work. There's a flag they check in the ECU that tells them how long it's been since the codes were cleared, and it's considered a failure if it's not long enough (which is something like "a few hours to a day").
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Jul 12, 2012 00:13
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Krakkles posted:Depending on where you are, this probably won't work. There's a flag they check in the ECU that tells them how long it's been since the codes were cleared, and it's considered a failure if it's not long enough (which is something like "a few hours to a day"). It's not a flag. Ther are very specific emissions readiness monitors. State inspections that use these require so many to be in a "ready" state (and none of them in a fail state) for you to pass. It depends on the state as well as the year of the vehicle. Google "OBD2 Drive Cycle" and whatever is relevant to your state to figure out how many of them need to be in a ready state to pass. If you can have one or more not ready and pass you can play games with clearing codes and driving just enough of the drive cycle (and having the right amount of fuel in the tank if your evap is failing) to have x number of them ready with no failures. But that would be wrong, so I'm sure you wouldn't do that.
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Jul 12, 2012 02:20
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The other possibility of course is that once he clears them it won't come back--I forgot to mention that two weeks ago the (damaged/crushed) air filter for my Dinan CAI was replaced. Could it be that it's been like that because there wasn't enough air getting in through the engine? Seeing as all that air flows right through the MAF... well, this is all useless speculation I suppose. I'll see what happens tomorrow.
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Jul 12, 2012 02:39
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Is this an alarming amount of rust on the driver's side of an S52? I've daily-driven my E36 in Chicago for more than 10 years and it's got some additional, developing rust on the underside. What's that stuff called that you can paint over rust to retard its spread..?
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Jul 12, 2012 04:15
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Motronic posted:Oh, thats right, you aren't OBDII. DIS or a separate manual gauge are probably the right answers, but an IR thermometer just might suffice for a quick idea of what's going on. Sounds like a good starting point, thanks guys!
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Jul 12, 2012 04:28
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On the E8x cars (and probably also E60 and E90 and friends), is it somehow possible to splice into the audio feed? I have an audio signal from, say, a third-party GPS, which will every so often come in play. Any way to get that in over the radio? The headunit in question is the bottom-of-the-barrel one.
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Jul 12, 2012 13:14
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I'm planning on ordering a DICE Mediabridge for my new E39. Right now all I have is radio and the stock tape deck, as the CD changer isn't working (though it's connected and gets power... seems they tend to be a bit flakey). I'm interested in it mainly for the Bluetooth and USB capabilities. If I just plan on sticking an 8GB memory stick into it and using that and the bluetooth, there isn't any wiring I have to install to the front, right? It's all just plugged into the changer harness in the trunk?
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Jul 12, 2012 16:05
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Welp, me hood doesn't open anymore. I'm hoping I don't have to tear apart the entire kick panel and dash and remove the fende-ahahaha who am I kidding?  Off to the DIYs I go!
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Jul 12, 2012 17:28
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Hooray, there is creaking and a significant increase in thumping coming from my E46's driver's side rear suspension, and the subframe recall wasn't completed when I bought the car last year. Time to send it to a professional to handle welding I am definitely not confident in doing myself  littlewing posted:As soon as I hit a stop light, the engine starts to heat up. I've read that going to a mix of 50-50 water and coolant or even 85 water 15 coolant can really help the engine run cooler. Any truth to this? I'm not sure what's in there now. My dad seemed to think it was more coolant than water but couldn't be sure. Are there any other baseline things I should be checking/thinking about?
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Jul 12, 2012 17:41
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pr0craztinazn posted:
I've got the one linked below, which appears to be rated for 1280cfm based off the reference data. I was slightly nervous seeing that they say "From our low profile fan line this fan is ideal for oil cooler applications also popular in the motorcycle and ATV industry." I know of a couple fan options that people with 02's have been running on s14 or m20 swaps. The fan I've got is an 11-inch. Most 02's try to run 12 or 14-inch fans with higher ratings. One of the 14-inch fans that's popular does 2000cfm. I think space might be a factor for me, but I'm certainly open to replacing the fan with something a little more proven. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30100365 I asked my Dad about the coolant and he seemed to think it was more coolant than water, so I'm planning on having it drained and replaced. What I've read on 2002 specific sites seems to suggest a 85% water 15% coolant mix on swapped engines/modded m10's. Since I don't know what the mix ratio is, when it was put in or changed last, might as well get a known mix in. Do you have thoughts on that 85/15 ratio? I'll probably have the radiator flushed at the same time to try and remove any blockages.
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Jul 12, 2012 18:34
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juche mane posted:Welp, me hood doesn't open anymore. I'm hoping I don't have to tear apart the entire kick panel and dash and remove the fende-ahahaha who am I kidding? Assuming the cable broke, you're probably going to need to smash out the kidney grilles and fish around for the latch.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:41
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Binge posted:I have an 04 325xi, and have the same issue it appears. I have been lead to believe its the VANOS seals. I called my dealership today about it, and they want to check it out before they'll tell me if it's covered under warranty.
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Jul 12, 2012 20:16
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