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Anyone have experience with the Hyundai Veloster? Opinions on daily driving them? I like the styling and the turbo model is compelling.
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Jul 11, 2012 17:44
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I have some questions about my rights as a consumer when getting work done on my truck. I dropped my truck off on sunday for the mechanic to look at the clutch (this is not my normal mechanic, I am stranded about 200 miles from home). I was able to start my truck but could not shift out of neutral ( I could shift the gear shift into place for another gear but could not disengage the clutch). the repair shop initially estimated that it would take 1 day to replace the clutch and cost 750 dollars ( this estimate was over the phone I have not been to the shop yet). the car has been in the shop for 4 days now and they tell me that they had to replace the slave cylinder. my concern is that I did not sign off on the additional work. They told me the car be ready in the morning and when I called to confirm they told me they had already pulledthe transmission back out. A quick googling seems to indicate that this could raise the price up to as much as 1500 dollars., which is worth almost as much is the truck itself. I'm upset because if I had known it would cost this much I would have considered just junk in the car. they did not consult with me aboutthe additional reparis and have not provided an estimate for how much it will end up costing with the additional repairs. this seems unethical, and im wondering what my options are. I am in New York State, if that matters.
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Jul 11, 2012 18:28
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Sten Freak posted:Anyone have experience with the Hyundai Veloster? Opinions on daily driving them? Every review I've read has said it's slower than it looks and the name implies. The turbo has the same suspension/steering as the base model, which is also probably a bad thing.
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Jul 11, 2012 18:52
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Chef Bromden posted:I have some questions about my rights as a consumer Here in AI we can tell you that this mechanic is doing something that is, unfortunately, fairly common lovely mechanic shady underhanded practice and we hate these kinds of assholes. What we can't do, though, is give you much in the way of legal advice, which is what you may be looking for. (Or maybe there's a MECHANICAL LAWYER goon reading this thread, but I don't recall seeing one posting in the last few years...) My advice is to call them up immediately, and calmly explain exactly what you told us: that you understood the original estimate to be $750, which you were willing to pay, but you are not willing to pay more and did not approve additional work. See if they can work something out with you. If not, then seek legal advice.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:27
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Leperflesh posted:Here in AI we can tell you that this mechanic is doing something that is, unfortunately, fairly common lovely mechanic shady underhanded practice and we hate these kinds of assholes. Thanks, I figured it was a long shot. when I called they said that they had just completed the work. Unfortunately the new york state bar exam does not cover consumer rights, so my lawyer friends are unfamiliar with the law.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:45
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They should have realized the clutch wasn't disengaging in the first place before just blindly replacing the clutch. I can't stand lovely shops who can't diagnose a clutch issue. If it's not shifting when the engine is running, that means the engine is still turning the transmission. The clutch is probably working fine, so it's either a failed master/slave of the pressure plate is hosed. But any competent mechanic should be able to figure out what it is before changing out the clutch, and then going "oh gently caress, it's still broken." That's just pathetic.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:51
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Chef Bromden posted:Thanks, I figured it was a long shot. when I called they said that they had just completed the work. Unfortunately the new york state bar exam does not cover consumer rights, so my lawyer friends are unfamiliar with the law. I think this is the thread you want.
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Jul 11, 2012 20:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Vacuum leak? I seem to recall my GMC doing this when we swapped carbs and didn't realize there was a hole for a plug in the back of the baseplate that we had left open. Even with TBI?
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Jul 11, 2012 21:17
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http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3121077971.html In an effort to cram my garage full of stuff I dont really need.... I saw this car. How much of a bitch is it to pull the motor out of these? I remember my 3rd gen was a bitch and half to do anything with, and I assume this is just as nasty.
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Jul 11, 2012 22:16
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I have a '99 Miata that has had the clutch engagement point move closer to the floor. I thought I was crazy until today when I realized that the clutch slave cylinder was going when I couldn't get it into reverse in the parking garage, and had trouble getting it into first the whole drive home. What do I toss in there to make it to the weekend? I want DOT 3 brake fluid to fill the clutch slave cylinder, right?
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Jul 12, 2012 00:32
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I don't think the clutch system cares what type of brake fluid it is, just that it's brake fluid. Types really only matter for brakes that get ridiculously hot, whereas if you're boiling your clutch fluid you've probably sent the clutch to a painful death. Pick a fluid and flush it through completely once you change cylinders. Not like there's much of the old left in it right now anyway, that's why your clutch doesn't want to work!
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Jul 12, 2012 00:34
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The only thing to be sure of is that you don't mix DOT 5 with anything. This is probably not an issue, since you probably have DOT 3/4 in there. DOT 5 does NOT play well with others.
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Jul 12, 2012 01:01
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To clarify, putting in DOT 5 without flushing the poo poo out of your system will cause all the rubber seals to go bad, and you'll dump brake fluid all over the place next time you clutch in. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are all compatible though.
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Jul 12, 2012 01:10
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 I was looking at the amp the PO installed and by god, it looks like the wires are already there for a powered subwoofer, right? I don't want anything super 'bumpin' but it might be nice to have something. Those two thick black wires have about 2.5' of wire before the end. Maybe the PO cut out his sub?
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Jul 12, 2012 01:14
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thanks, but it doesn't look like it's going to be an issue. they ended up not adding any extra labor and only charging me for the slave cylinder.
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Jul 12, 2012 01:41
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Not really a stupid question, but more of the dumbest reason yet to put nitrogen in your tires. A friend of mine mentioned he had his tired filled with nitrogen after they were slashed a couple of times because, "the guy at the tire shop said putting nitro in your tires (maybe he meant nitrous or something) will give the dude slashing your tires a chemical burn". I didn't have the heart to tell him that was bullshit. 
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Jul 12, 2012 01:57
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Actually my winter tires are nitrogen filled and have been rock solid in terms of keeping the same pressure.
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Jul 12, 2012 02:11
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nwin posted:I need to get some new tires for my wife's CR-V. Is tire rack still the best place to go through? I have found that local ma&pop shops can give really good deals and service. Unfortunately there are poo poo ones that ruin it for all of them but ask people you know locally if they know of a place. In my anecdote they seem to be much more interested in their name than the upsell. Chef Bromden posted:thanks, but it doesn't look like it's going to be an issue. they ended up not adding any extra labor and only charging me for the slave cylinder. That's good, but in the future get repair quotes in writing. It may not be iron clad depending on where you are but it's a hell of a lot better than "they said" should you want to go the small claims route. (ianal) Most states have pretty clear laws and rules about repair work but as a customer you need to know how to not get ripped off. Common things are the need for authorization for extra costs above X% of quote and a right to see replaced parts or invoices. Cursory search: http://www.ohiolegalservices.org/public/legal_problem/consumer-rights/automobile/automobile/autorepairsWEB.pdf http://www.atg.wa.gov/ConsumerIssues/Cars/AutoRepair.aspx E: Anyone looking to get shop repairs should look up their states guide like those if they have one online.
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Jul 12, 2012 02:42
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Has anyone ever "Purchased" a vehicle off the manufacturer's website? I'm looking at getting a car in semi limited stock, something dealers make no incentives on. I'm thinking about making the purchase in 6-10 months from now. Is it worth it to spec it out how I want it and then take delivery at a local dealership? I guess I'm just not the most clear on how it actually works. Edit: No financing or anything like that either. Trying to think of all the particulars, I'm leaning towards an FR-S/BRZ, so something that is not moving below MSRP.Car is not solid either, so I am just kinda feeling out options.
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Jul 12, 2012 02:51
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Is getting someone to install a car radio for me even worth it, or is it something I could feasibly do myself?
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Jul 12, 2012 03:52
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iamathousandapples posted:Is getting someone to install a car radio for me even worth it, or is it something I could feasibly do myself? depends on the car.
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Jul 12, 2012 03:57
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TheFonz posted:Has anyone ever "Purchased" a vehicle off the manufacturer's website? I'm looking at getting a car in semi limited stock, something dealers make no incentives on. I'm thinking about making the purchase in 6-10 months from now. Is it worth it to spec it out how I want it and then take delivery at a local dealership? I believe the way "ordering" on the manufacturer's website works is they just send you over to the dealer to finalize everything and get the price, etc. You still deal with the dealership exclusively. However, most dealerships have dedicated online sales guys that seem to be easier to deal with than the sales guys on the floor.
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Jul 12, 2012 04:09
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Millstone posted:depends on the car. 2005 Dodge Neon
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Jul 12, 2012 04:17
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iamathousandapples posted:2005 Dodge Neon Pay to get it done. A lot of places do it for little or free depending on what you buy. The mark up is insane on car audio.
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Jul 12, 2012 04:22
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iamathousandapples posted:2005 Dodge Neon Seems like it has a straightforward switched 12V signal so you can grab a wiring harness, mounting kit and have at it.
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Jul 12, 2012 05:56
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Millstone posted:Seems like it has a straightforward switched 12V signal so you can grab a wiring harness, mounting kit and have at it. It's also a semi-standard opening, so sticking a single-DIN unit in there should be easy. I don't know if that's a 1.5 DIN or double DIN opening, but the rounded corners might make things interesting if he/she were to go for a double DIN stereo. Either way. Crutchfield will list everything they need.
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Jul 12, 2012 06:14
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I am about at the end of my rope with my car lately, so I thought I would ask here for some combined brain power. Several months ago I bought a 1986 Toyota Mr2 from a guy on craigslist. It had an oil leak but I figured I could fix it. 2 weeks of newbie work and I was able to. Cam and crank shaft seals. I stupidly forgot to put a camshaft bolt washer on a cam gear, which fell off one time I was driving it. Purchase a new cam gear, belt and bolts and repair it. It drives great, but then I lost RPMs one time while driving and it died and wouldn't start. Turns out I may have killed the igniter when testing it with a Vat-40 at school; unplugging the cord from the ignition coil grounded through the igniter, shortening it's life to then. Replace the igniter and the car starts fine. But here we are. The car starts, will run for about 5 seconds and sputter to a halt. Opening the throttle kills it faster. Attaching a pressure gauge shows the proper ~30psi, but drops to ~12psi just before dying. The fuel coming from the pressure relief valve is milky brown disgusting. I thought it would be the fuel filter, so I replaced it. Which was full of disgusting rust fuel. Upon replacing the filter, the fuel coming from the relief valve is clear as water, but the same problem is still happening. I now suspect the fuel pump. Upon bridging FP - B+ on the service connector as stated in the service manual and turning the key to the ON position, I do not get any fuel pressure reading or hear the fuel pump going in the fuel tank. Even with a stethoscope against the fuel pump. The odd thing is that it will start every time with 30 PSI, idle for 5 seconds and die like clockwork. It has to be getting fuel pressure from somewhere. Right? I have looked around the mess of Vacuum hoses and everything is connected as far as I know. The MAF tested properly with a multimeter. Any help would be appreciated.
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Jul 12, 2012 06:41
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Your gas tank is clearly rusting out. You need to address that in addition to any other issues you have... your new fuel filter is just going to clog up in short order like the other one did. There may be a filter or sock over the fuel pick-up in the tank, and that could be clogged up too. I'd suggest dropping the tank and disposing of the gas in it. Clean it out and then seal it. Check the fuel pick-up and flush out the fuel lines up to the filter. Replace the fuel filter again.
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Jul 12, 2012 06:59
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Does the stock antenna on a 1993 Del Sol use a standard type of connector, or would you need an adapter to hook it to an aftermarket head unit? Searching on "Honda Antenna Adapter" leads me to believe that anything pre-2005 uses a standard connector, but I just wanted to be sure before I start taking things apart. The stereo is already installed (by the previous owner) and working, so I don't need any help with the wiring harness or anything like that. The problem is that the radio reception is terrible. I'm just doing some mental troubleshooting at the moment and was thinking maybe the previous owner needed an adapter and just said screw it and left it unhooked.
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Jul 12, 2012 07:05
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ChubbyEmoBabe posted:That's good, but in the future get repair quotes in writing. It may not be iron clad depending on where you are but it's a hell of a lot better than "they said" should you want to go the small claims route. (ianal) Thanks, that stuff looks good, I'll have to check it out in detail later. I would have gotten the quote in writing, but I had no way to get the shop. I know some of the rules but I was out of my comfort zone, with my car at a strange mechanic that I hadn't even met face to face. It would be like sending your kid to a nanny with out interviewing the nanny first. I didn't want my car to get diddled. Also, AAA takes things very seriously, I called to inquire about resources for Auto/consumer rights laws and they were ready to open up an investigation and start cracking skulls.I don't know how much they can do, but they have to have a lot of pull.
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Jul 12, 2012 07:24
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Thanks guys, once I get it I'll see how much it'll cost to install then go from there
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Jul 12, 2012 07:42
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SkunkDuster posted:Does the stock antenna on a 1993 Del Sol use a standard type of connector, or would you need an adapter to hook it to an aftermarket head unit? Searching on "Honda Antenna Adapter" leads me to believe that anything pre-2005 uses a standard connector, but I just wanted to be sure before I start taking things apart. No adapter needed on any Honda I've owned (ranging from 1988 to 2001).
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Jul 12, 2012 12:23
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Weinertron posted:I have a '99 Miata that has had the clutch engagement point move closer to the floor. I thought I was crazy until today when I realized that the clutch slave cylinder was going when I couldn't get it into reverse in the parking garage, and had trouble getting it into first the whole drive home. '99 Miata problems: So I tossed some DOT 3 brake fluid into my clutch master cylinder reservoir to buy time until this weekend to replace what I'm pretty sure is the source of the leak, the slave cylinder. However, now whatever is leaking is leaking like crazy where it was a slow leak before. My commute in this morning was pretty bad, I have to pump the clutch a couple times to get pressure in the system before the clutch will disengage. I'll be looking at lunch for the source of the leak, but could a master cylinder leak this fast or is it likely I broke a hard or soft line somewhere in the clutch hydraulics? Also, am I destroying other things by letting a little DOT 3 brake fluid leak out somewhere in my engine bay? Edit: I just realized that it was pretty much empty yesterday evening when my clutch stopped working, and I needed to bleed out the air in the lines after adding new fluid... and I didn't. Time to grab a coworker and do it during lunch. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 15:07
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I'm having a problem with my 2007 Civic SI sedan. I'm getting a strange squeaking/grinding sound from the rear left wheel. It's not the brake pads or the rotors, as those have been replaced recently and the noises have remain unchanged before and after. If I'm driving at 40 MPH, for example, and I begin to slowly brake, I hear a fast paced high pitch squeak. As I come closer to stopping, at about 15 MPH, the noise turns into a lower pitched grinding sound that gets louder as I come to a stop. The frequency of the sound decreases as I slow, so it's as though it's in a certain spot on the wheel/rotor/etc. I thought it was a rough or damaged spot on the rotor, until I replaced the rotor and didn't notice a difference in the sound. There is no noise if the brakes aren't being applied, which leads me away from the issue being related to the wheel bearings, as I assume that type of problem would be noisy all the time, regardless of braking. Also, the noise is clearly coming from the tire well, not from the middle rear, where the differential is. The last oddity of this issue is that it doesn't occur for the first couple of minutes of driving. I have a 32 mile commute that is almost entirely highway driving save for two stop lights at the start, and three stop lights at the end. I don't hear the noise until after I get off the highway, and by then I've barely used the brakes. I have about 3000 miles left on my Honda Care warranty, but I'm concerned if I go to them they'll screw me over because I changed my own brake pads and rotors. Thoughts?
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Jul 12, 2012 15:46
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I recently snapped up a 1990 4 runner and among other minor repairable problems, the speedo has been a nagging thorn in my side. When it says I'm doing 50, my GPS says 42, a 16% discrepancy. The tires and speedo gear are the correct size, much to my dismay. My current theory is the differential gear ratio has been adjusted at some point for whatever stupid reason, and that's not something I'd like to gently caress around with. Bigger gears turn slower, so I would need to find a speedo gear that is 16% bigger to effectively fix the problem, right? 20 or 21 teeth by my count.
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Jul 12, 2012 16:43
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After searching for a while, I came up with these anti-seize and gasket sealant compounds for using on my NB Miata spark plug threads and valve cover gaskets, respectively:  It seems like they should work based on the label and descriptions, but I really have no idea since the instructions usually just say "use gasket sealant here" and "apply anti-seize there" without bothering to specify anything. So, would these work or should I look for something else?
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Jul 12, 2012 17:03
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mobby_6kl posted:After searching for a while, I came up with these anti-seize and gasket sealant compounds for using on my NB Miata spark plug threads and valve cover gaskets, respectively: Those would work just great.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:06
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I have a 1999 Chevrolet 3/4th ton silver ado that is having brake issues. YesterdAy, the brakes worked fine driving across town but as I braked to turn into my driveway, they crapped out and went to the floor. After replacing the master cylinder twice and bleeding the lines four times, the brakes are still spongy and soft while driving but are harder with the engine off. You still have to pump the brakes to have any But after bleeding the lines we are not finding any air. A bit stumped here. Any advice is appreciated, as always.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:11
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mobby_6kl posted:After searching for a while, I came up with these anti-seize and gasket sealant compounds for using on my NB Miata spark plug threads and valve cover gaskets, respectively: Just so you know, most modern spark plugs from reputable brands come with anti-sieze metal plated threads, so the compound isn't strictly speaking necessary.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:50
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Fucknag posted:Just so you know, most modern spark plugs from reputable brands come with anti-sieze metal plated threads, so the compound isn't strictly speaking necessary. Do you have a good list of which brands/part numbers are already coated?
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Jul 12, 2012 17:52
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