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Factory Factory posted:It's really the load temperature you have to worry about. Plus, if you run a ton of background tasks or keep lots of tabs open, "idle" might not be as idle as you think. Perhaps, but I just redid the thermal paste and I'm seeing stuff a good 4-5C less at idle, and Intel Burn Test doesn't get above 60C (although I didn't really let it run that long. I'm sure that's more I screwed it up when I first did it.
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Jun 21, 2012 21:43
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I see that the Asus P8P67 Pro is recommended in the OP. How does the Asus P8P67 compare? http://www.frys.com/product/6552833#detailed I ask because a local store has a P8P67 (open box) on sale for 30% off. Are open box items generally discouraged?
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Jun 23, 2012 01:51
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My parts list is a tad out of date, you would want to be looking at the P8Z77 line right now. Plus, open box items are basically "Someone gave it back and said it didn't work. Buy it, you might get lucky." But to answer the question, the P8P67 has the same 12+2 phase VRM setup as the P8P67 Pro, so it's just as good in terms of overclocking. Fewer features, though.
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Jun 23, 2012 02:53
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I would probably avoid an open box motherboard. No telling what hosed up reason it was returned for. Fry's electronics, for instance, has no problem selling boards with bent CPU socket pins as long as it will POST once. But you save 5%!
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Jun 23, 2012 05:03
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Fan on a heatsink? loving yawn. Spin the whole heatsink, without thermal compound and without actual contact with the chip. It's as quiet as the motor used to spin the 'sink, doesn't collect dust, and a device the size of a stock heatsink cools as well as an extra-large heatpipe tower with 30 times the radiating surface area. And it costs $10 to build. Assuming the patent licensing cost isn't ridiculous, here's your next big thing in cooling.
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Jun 30, 2012 08:43
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That is really awesome
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Jun 30, 2012 15:11
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Animal posted:That is really awesome It's been really awesome for awhile now, though, really curious when it'll be brought to market. It's the thorium reactor of CPU cooling. 
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Jun 30, 2012 15:29
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Factory Factory posted:Assuming the patent licensing cost isn't ridiculous, here's your next big thing in cooling. I remember seeing that sometime last year here. It's really cool seeing how they've had some success going further with it.
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Jun 30, 2012 16:20
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So it's summertime, at it looks as though the thermal performance of my overclock, which I set up last summer, has gotten quite a bit worse - Last year I was under 72C during IBT in ambient temperatures up to 95F, now anything 85f for ambient temperatures is pushing me up to 78C on my hottest cores. My case is relatively dust free. I'm thinking maybe I should try reseating my heatsink and re-applying paste. I guess these things can dry out over a year? Other than that I'm out of ideas. In the meantime I've dropped my clockspeeds back to stock and undervolted the poo poo out of my 2500K.
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Jul 1, 2012 17:17
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VorpalFish posted:So it's summertime, at it looks as though the thermal performance of my overclock, which I set up last summer, has gotten quite a bit worse - Last year I was under 72C during IBT in ambient temperatures up to 95F, now anything 85f for ambient temperatures is pushing me up to 78C on my hottest cores. My case is relatively dust free.
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Jul 1, 2012 18:06
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grumperfish posted:TIM usually won't dry out that quickly. Did you increase the voltage at some point in the last year? You may want to reseat just to verify though. Nah, voltage hasn't been touched, been running offset of -0.045 for a core voltage of 1.24 in the BIOS. I guess I'll just reapply paste when I get a new video card (I'm dumb and buy things I don't need, 670, here I come)!
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Jul 1, 2012 19:07
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I'm not sure what is causing it, but my PC just shut off on me twice. I took the opportunity to turn down the voltage offset (something I've been meaning to do) to reduce core temperatures, but I also checked my CPU heat with hwinfo64. I was not amused by the results. While my core temps are no where near max, they seem pretty high for a 4.0 ghz OC on an i5 3570k. The vcore is ranging from 1.160 to 1.192 but my temps are ranging from mid 50s C to 60 C ish. They were never running that high before, and I doubt it's due to summer weather cuz it's still fairly cool here (high 60s F to low 70s F). This is after a .015 drop in voltage offset too. Note that I'm running Prime95 while taking these readings, but am comparing them to when I saw running Prime95 in the past. Any ideas how I can bring the temp down? Or should I just not worry about it?
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Jul 2, 2012 23:56
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50 to 60 C is not worrying temperature. Considering it's summer, it's more likely a brownout caused by all the A/C going. If it keeps happening, reset to stock and troubleshoot, though.
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Jul 2, 2012 23:59
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I recently retired my old C2D E5400 internals and upgraded to a fancy new set of guts (mostly due to the fact every internal fan had failed on the old setup). From what I've read here and the parts picking list, I put together this setup: Case (old/survivor) Antec Sonata III P/S Antec Earthwatts 650 Platinum MB Asus P8Z77-V CPU 3570K Coolermaster 212 Evo 4x4GB Corsair XMS DDR3 1600 - the one piece I feel I messed up on, as it is SPD 1.5v, but at 1333, and 1.65 at 1600. None the less it runs perfectly stable if I use the "XMP" profile but at 1.50v EVGA GTX670 "FTW" Intel 520 120GB SSD Hopefully that's enough background info on what and why. I've got it up and running/installed, and it's nice and stable, however controlling the voltages and temperatures has been a challenge. I did all of my installs and such on "stock" settings for the Asus, which seems to overclock on its own by default even if I don't do anything. This is OK, except when I went to run a burnin I very quickly hit temps around 88-95-93-90 on the cores. I checked HWINFO64 and saw that my vcore was around 1.42! This was doing nothing but hitting F5 to load optimized defaults on the 1205 BIOS for this mobo with this hardware. I didn't like this at all, so I went through these threads and tried to learn how to better set this up. The results seem decent, but I'm still a tad concerned on temperatures based on what I've read. Either there's just a decent amount of variance, or I messed up somewhere. At "idle" (background procs + posting this), I'm seeing temperatures somewhere between 32-36C on all 4 cores. I see a lot of people mentioning idle temps with roughly this mobo/cpu/cooler setup closer to high 20C range. I have configured a manual Vcore of 1.225v, LLC "high 50%", PLL 1.600, set CPU fan profile to "Turbo", BCLK 100.0, Turbo multiplier to 43x, DRAM voltage of 1.50v. I ran Prime95 against it overnight with no errors/warnings, and I see full load temps hovering +/- 2 of 77-83-81-80 if I give IBT on "maximum" stress. The highest VID I've seen is 1.266. Again, these temps are a bit higher than most people are advertising with this setup, and they're also claiming to typically be able to get 45x and run closer to 1.28v while maintaining temps slightly lower than these. If I go up to 1.25v and 44x I can get the system stable, but under full load the temps quickly jump to just over 90C on core 1 (always seems to run the hottest, core 0 is solidly 5C cooler almost always). Worth mentioning is that I am no dummy when it comes to applying thermal paste, but I did just use the paste that came with the 212 Evo. Is it likely that my problem is thermal material, or do I just not have a problem at all and I'm worrying too much?
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Jul 6, 2012 16:35
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Do any of the SNB-E cpus overclock well? I'm a bit torn over going with SNB-E or IVB for my next build. It will definitely be a high end build and overclocked of course. I'm also 100% inclined to pop off the IVB IHS after about a week of heavy testing.
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Jul 6, 2012 23:15
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Shaocaholica posted:Do any of the SNB-E cpus overclock well? I'm a bit torn over going with SNB-E or IVB for my next build. It will definitely be a high end build and overclocked of course. I'm also 100% inclined to pop off the IVB IHS after about a week of heavy testing. Yeah, and they overclock without having to get the eXtreme SKUs as well if I recall correctly. FF will know more, I remember that it came out and was kinda neat, and that you could actually put together a fairly price competitive system with a salty overclock thanks to the non-adherence to multiplier only overclocking that we get with the 4-cores. Specifics, not sure.
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Jul 6, 2012 23:56
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Having trouble finding examples of 3770K OCs with direct die cooling with an H100. Seems like that would be a popular setup. No?
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Jul 7, 2012 01:05
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Shaocaholica posted:Do any of the SNB-E cpus overclock well? I'm a bit torn over going with SNB-E or IVB for my next build. It will definitely be a high end build and overclocked of course. I'm also 100% inclined to pop off the IVB IHS after about a week of heavy testing. Leaving the "should you buy SNB-E at all" discussion for the system building thread, they overclock well but not as well as SNB. With SNB, the K SKUs that overclock are the highest-binned chips. SNB-E i7s are fairly low bins of Xeons. The K and X SNB-E CPUs can be treated exactly like SNB/IVB, in terms of what settings you tweak. They have freely-adjustable multipliers. The 38xx quad-core doesn't have an unlocked multiplier, but you can get a quick and easy 4.4 (I think) GHz out of it by setting the BCLK strap to 125%. I think that you might have a few bins on top of that for the multiplier, or you might not. But it'll get that far no problem, which is nice for a not-unlocked part. In terms of frequency, the not-as-good binning of the SNB-E parts means that you're looking at about the same frequencies as IVB parts, i.e. a bit lower than SNB, on average. However, you'll be limited by frequency wall/voltage rather than voltage/heat, so if you invest in ludicrous cooling and get lucky on the chip, you can still get a chip that could hit 5 GHz, if that number is important to your electronic dong. Shaocaholica posted:Having trouble finding examples of 3770K OCs with direct die cooling with an H100. Seems like that would be a popular setup. No? 
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Jul 7, 2012 01:13
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What? This was all the rage back in the Athlon1 days!
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Jul 7, 2012 01:23
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Crushing a CPU to death is one of life's rare pleasures. RMA? In your dreams  I'm all for people voiding their warranties in a real permanent kinda way for reapplying TIM properly, but it is pretty  to bolt today's 2-3 pound heatsinks directly onto a CPU composed of a billion or more I remember a 2003-2004 era overclocking topic that showed someone who had made a very lovely, flat indentation on the corner of their at that point kinda long in the tooth Thunderbird CPU (probably misrecalling the exact details but the image was priceless and has stuck with me - that was when AMD's 32-bit Barton CPUs were getting EOL'd in favor of the first Athlon x64 CPUs, but I seem to remember it being a Thunderbird-era processor nonetheless). It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. We don't want to go back to that time, though. The one reasonable test I've seen showed pretty much no difference with the IHS off or on, probably because the IHS is somewhat integral to how modern processors disperse and heat sinks wick up heat. Thing's not just there to look pretty, and protecting the processor from incidental damage with a misapplied heat sink is bonus points. I remember there being a bunch of silly internet chest-thumping back when they were first introduced, too. Oh, the dumb poo poo we'll argue over. And don't get me started on lapping... 
Agreed fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 7, 2012 |
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Jul 7, 2012 01:36
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H100 water block is not a 2-3lb heatsink. And no, I'm not the type of rear end in a top hat that tries to RMA something thats deliberately voided. e: found this thread claiming 9C drop going to direct die on water http://www.overclock.net/t/1269943/flat-waterblock-for-direct-to-die-cooling-on-ivy-bridge#post_17499510 Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 7, 2012 |
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Jul 7, 2012 01:37
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Shaocaholica posted:H100 water block is not a 2-3lb heatsink. And no, I'm not the type of rear end in a top hat that tries to RMA something thats deliberately voided. I guess the default prejudice is to think that for anyone who asks? Don't think either of us were directing any negative commentary at you specifically, though if you're actually thinking about doing it, weeeell, all yours to try, amigo. I'd guess that would be the safest way to do something fundamentally unsafe. Nice clock he's got on the chip, certainly, though I'd be concerned about running it that hot and at that voltage regardless of temperature. Seems like a good candidate for a cooked chip sooner or later. But that's overclock.net for you, I guess. If you go for it, let us know how it goes!
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Jul 7, 2012 01:52
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Are those load temps too high? Whats a normal load temp for a 3770 using stock cooling at stock speeds?
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Jul 7, 2012 02:01
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Hey so I manually overclocked my CPU to 4.4GHz with a Vcore of 1.340 and a Medium (25%) LLC. I'd like to switch to Offset, so I'm wondering if there's easy way to translate this into an Offset OC setting, or do I need to start over and undergo trial and error from the beginning? I read that I can take the observed Vcore and subtract the observed VID to get my offset. Going off of this, the max Vcore under 100% load at 4.4Ghz was 1.288 and the min was 1.256. My max VID under load was 1.3761 and the min was 1.3661. I tried inputting offsets of -0.085 (core max-ID max), -0.090 (incrementing by 0.05, and -0.110 (core min-ID min), but I got BSODs immediately, so I'm pretty sure that I'm doing something wrong. So, again, is there an easy way to translate my manual settings into an offset, or do I just need to start from square one and do some trial and error? BathroomTile fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 8, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 00:22
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Offset is based on the stock settings. You are undervolting your processor. Start over. Set your frequencies to stock, offset +0.000 and see what the voltage ends up. Kick up the offset until you're at the voltage you previously identified as necessary for stability, then put your clocks back. Tweak as necessary if it's not stable.
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Jul 8, 2012 00:32
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Factory Factory posted:Offset is based on the stock settings. You are undervolting your processor. Start over. Set your frequencies to stock, offset +0.000 and see what the voltage ends up. Kick up the offset until you're at the voltage you previously identified as necessary for stability, then put your clocks back. Tweak as necessary if it's not stable. Jesus, well that makes sense as to why I'm getting immediate BSODs. Thanks for the note, Factory, I appreciate it. Edit: I reached a stable 4.4GHz again with an offset of +0.005.
BathroomTile fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jul 9, 2012 |
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Jul 8, 2012 00:43
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Did I tl;dr myself, or just no real suggestions? Ordered a couple of new case fans as my rear 120mm isn't blowing very well, so maybe putting in a front and a new rear will help my temps also. If that doesn't, I guess I'll pull the cpu cooler and re-apply the thermal compound and see if it does anything. If my temps are actually normal, please stop my insanity.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:03
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si posted:Did I tl;dr myself, or just no real suggestions? Ordered a couple of new case fans as my rear 120mm isn't blowing very well, so maybe putting in a front and a new rear will help my temps also. If that doesn't, I guess I'll pull the cpu cooler and re-apply the thermal compound and see if it does anything.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:48
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grumperfish posted:"77-83-81-80" is alright during maximum IBT, and your chip doesn't seem to want to take higher clocks/voltage with your cooler, so it looks like you've found your limit. You can try the additional case fans and see if it gives you more room, but you're probably up against a wall there. Good deal, so it is actually normal for chips of the same line to run at radically different temps at the same voltages then. That was the part that was throwing me, as I would generally have expected them all to run about the same heat at a given voltage.
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Jul 9, 2012 16:08
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The first core always runs cooler, since it's next to a huge piece of the die that's seeing no utilization (the integrated graphics), and that acts as a big heatsink.
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Jul 9, 2012 17:37
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So what sort of temps are acceptable running IBT on a 3570k? From what I'd read earlier in this thread, it looks like 72C is as high as you want to take a 3570k, but now I'm hearing it's cool if IBT pushes things a bit above that? What sort of temps are acceptable while running IBT then? Here's a tl;dr explination of why I'm asking that which probably doesn't matter: Going from this pic earlier in the thread, I was getting a little confused.  Probably because I was previously going from AI Suite (I've got an Asus P8Z77-M) and I'm guessing the temp shown there is the temp HWINFO shows for the Nuvoton sensor (down where I should be looking at VCORE) which reads a good 10-15 degrees below what the Core temps and the CPU Package/CPU IA Cores are showing. So I think a combo of trying IBT for the first time and knowing how to read HWINFO for the first time as well made me freak out a little when those temps were bumping 80C and I pretty much just shut down IBT instantly. Then those kind of temps made me reapply my thermal paste, thinking that I'd hosed something up, and then get frown a lot and get all pouty when I still got the same results... so I repeated that process like 5 times and am p much super embarrassed about it now.  
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Jul 9, 2012 22:38
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nrr posted:So what sort of temps are acceptable running IBT on a 3570k? From what I'd read earlier in this thread, it looks like 72C is as high as you want to take a 3570k, but now I'm hearing it's cool if IBT pushes things a bit above that? What sort of temps are acceptable while running IBT then?
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Jul 9, 2012 23:23
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Around what clock speed would I need to OC a 2500k to in order to basically match a 4.5ghz 3570k in performance? 4.8-4.9ghz?
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Jul 12, 2012 04:34
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On average, Ivy Bridge performs 5% better per clock (ranging from 1% to 12%) vs. Sandy Bridge, according to [H] testing. You'd need about 4.7 GHz, to the nearest .1 GHz.
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Jul 12, 2012 04:49
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You're so handy to have around! Much appreciated.
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Jul 12, 2012 04:53
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grumperfish posted:I'm not Intel, so I can't be blamed if your poo poo blows up, but I always cut temps some slack when running maximum IBT, as it's an artificial load that you'll never really see in standard usage scenarios. I let my (C2/SB) chips get closer to 80C during max IBT runs as long as prime95 smallFFT runs stay at 72C or below. Below 72C is better for Prime95 as it's a good idea to account for occasional higher ambient temperatures to avoid baking chips due to a freak heatwave or broken A/C unit. Yeah, that sounds fair enough. Ok, well I may as well sort this out once and for all, I'm getting 32-38C on my hottest core while idling with an ambient temp of 25C. 3570k, ASUS p8z77-m, Hyper Cooler 212+. Did I gently caress up the thermal paste application again, or are those sort of temps somewhat normal? Last time around I used the pea method from the vid in the OP, although it's possible it may have shifted a little as I was trying to screw the brackets in. Those things never want to sit still. 
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Jul 12, 2012 08:02
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nrr posted:Yeah, that sounds fair enough. Ok, well I may as well sort this out once and for all, I'm getting 32-38C on my hottest core while idling with an ambient temp of 25C. 3570k, ASUS p8z77-m, Hyper Cooler 212+. Did I gently caress up the thermal paste application again, or are those sort of temps somewhat normal?
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Jul 12, 2012 16:33
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So I just got an Asrock Z77 Extreme4 motherboard, paired with a Core i5 3750k with a Coolermaster 212 Evo installed. Is there any reason not to use the overclocking software that Asrock included instead of doing things through the BIOS, in terms of stability or whatnot? The last time I had a PC where overclocking was worthwhile was back in the days of Mobile Bartons.
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Jul 12, 2012 18:39
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It's more likely to crash the system than doing it through the BIOS, but that's it. Go for it. Connect Four
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Jul 12, 2012 20:11
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| # ? May 10, 2024 05:47 |
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Beautiful Ninja posted:So I just got an Asrock Z77 Extreme4 motherboard, paired with a Core i5 3750k with a Coolermaster 212 Evo installed. Is there any reason not to use the overclocking software that Asrock included instead of doing things through the BIOS, in terms of stability or whatnot? The last time I had a PC where overclocking was worthwhile was back in the days of Mobile Bartons. I have the exact same setup. Just go into the bios, set the multiplier to 4.3, voltage offset to +0.05 or +0.10 (don't remember where mine is), you'll be good.
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Jul 12, 2012 20:17
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