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Ambrose Burnside posted:Bought the Cheapest Discount Drill Press possible and despite the box saying 5-speed, I'm not seeing any speed control... and why does the pulley-box on top open up so easily? Huh? There's a diagram showing me how to manually pull the belts and read just them to change the speed? The motor is probably a bit loose that you can tilt it so as to loosen the belt on the spindle, and then gravity hangs it vertical again and tensions the belt some. Otherwise, if the wheels don't have super deep channels, you can probably just work the belt off towards the smaller wheel, and then a similar process in reverse for putting it back on.
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Jul 10, 2012 20:11
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So it does! It's got a thumbscrew for locking down the motor housing, I assumed it was for vibrations or somesuch. Thangoo :3 e: and yeah I guess I'm spoiled, the only drill-press I'd spent time with before this one had a speed knob and a laser sight and everything!! Real swanky-like, name-brand even.
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Jul 10, 2012 20:17
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Just make sure you always put the belt on matching levels of the spindle, so it's rotating on the same plane. No using level 3 on one spindle and level 2 on the other. Even if the tension weirdness doesn't gently caress it up, it'll wear your belt down super fast.
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Jul 10, 2012 20:20
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Yeah, I figured as much. I think it's actually mounted wrong right now but I haven't used it beyond the ritual First Plugging-In and Turning-On To Watch It Go e: Yeah, the belt turned out to be way, way too tight because it was mounted improperly. Spent a long while tugging and prying at it before I forged up a curved wedge to feed under the belt to lift it out of the spool channel so I could shift it over. Fixing problems is neat!! Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 20:28
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We're getting a new (used) lathe and mill for the hackerspace. Sadly it's a combo unit. but it's 750lbs, so... I think it's got potential. Pictures to follow sunday!
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Jul 10, 2012 21:59
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Ugh didn't see the new page, nevermind.
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Jul 11, 2012 06:32
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Cutting fairly thick-walled (~1/8" maybe, a lil thicker, maybe closer to 1/4"?) aluminium pipe: can I do it on the table saw? I need to make a bunch of repetitive straight cuts and I'm dreading doing it with the hacksaw, especially because I've got a really terrible eye for freehand straight cuts. I can anneal it beforehand if need be. What blade should I use- I'm thinkin something real cheap and carbidey with fine teeth. I've been lookin at metal bandsaws, but they be pricey fer me right now, so gotta make due.
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Jul 11, 2012 21:19
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You can get non-ferrous circular blades that will fit on a miter saw or a table saw. The teeth are angled slightly differently than a wood blade so that poo poo doesn't go wild. While you probably could use a wood blade, i'd recommend getting the metal cutting blade. I have one, and use it somewhat regularly, and it's been worth every penny. With one of those, you could probably make a simple sled that would hold your pipe in line and ride in the slots on the saw while you make your cuts.
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Jul 11, 2012 21:29
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That's a good idea, because it's round, it'll skitter all over the place otherwise. Actually, if I built a sled/runner-thingy to hold the pipe stable, wouldn't the pipe be cut an inch or whatever off the actual table? I don't know if that actually matters, table saws just spook me is all so I don't wanna tempt fate with 'em (the blade looks awful scary-like!!). Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 23:48
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e: haha holy poo poo, never leave a window open for like 4 hours  Disregard.
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Jul 12, 2012 00:11
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's a good idea, because it's round, it'll skitter all over the place otherwise. That's fine, you just set the blade a little higher. Crosscut sleds are the poo poo, and if you own a table saw, you should build one regardless of whether you think you'll need it. There's nothing magic about them, it just makes it so that the workpiece is stationary on the surface and the blade moves through, as opposed to the blade being stationary on surface and the work piece moving through. In general, using a cross cut sled is far safer than "normal" table saw operation, and can help to reduce an ungodly amount of kickback, as well as allowing for very precise and repeatable work, and also lets you cut things way smaller than you could ever do on a table saw without. You can google "table saw cross cut sled" for lots of ideas, or just follow this excellent video which will have your sled up and running and very well calibrated in no time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE9f4bp_wm8 You can, of course, scale it to your needs. In this case, if you really only want it for cutting the pipe, I'd make one maybe only 6" deep, but make sure your runners are longer than that so that it doesn't rack in the channels.
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Jul 12, 2012 00:31
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That's... very useful, thanks. With one of those I could probably do a lot of the work I was assuming I'd need a metal bandsaw for. e: Now that I'm looking at blades online- I'm only seeing abrasive blades for cutting ferrous metals, or otherwise a huge sea of steel blades with varying numbers of teeth but not much more information. Any reason I can't use a ferrous cutoff wheel on non-ferrous metals, or just go with the steel saw with the finest teeth? I'll probably grab a cheap fine-toothed chappie tomorrow for the time being because I'm kinda strapped for time with what I'm doing, I can get a proper blade later down the road.
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Jul 12, 2012 00:35
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I'd recommend against a cutoff wheel in a table saw. I don't have any specific reasons why, except that poo poo's gonna be flying straight up and off the wheel, and it's not meant for that, etc. It just sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, and table saws are bad enough as is. If you decide to do it anyhow, I guess post a trip report, but really, please don't, unless someone can authoritatively recommend otherwise. The big difference between a regular circular blade (wood) and a metal circular blade (non-ferrous) is the angle and count of the teeth. In a wood blade, the teeth are angled forward, to grab the wood and bite in. In the metal blade, the teeth are actually angled back a little bit. Can you cut something soft like aluminum with a wood blade? Prooooobably, although I'd recommend extra-increased caution and perhaps a few test cuts, and expect it to not necessarily go as planned. With the right blade, I'd just say go for it. Also, for what it's worth, the cut you'll get with a proper metal circa blade is, imho, superior to the cut you'll get with a cutoff wheel. I think I've seen them at Lowe's/Home Depot, but if you have amazon prime, a few of these are eligible: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...+circular+10%22 and as such could be there by tomorrow for an extra $4. e: Heck, if you don't have prime, sign up for it, you get the first month free, pay your $4 to get it in your hands by tomorrow, and then cancel the prime membership in a couple weeks. Or don't, once you realize how awesome it is, like I did. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 00:42
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I'm not an American  And yeah I really wouldn't go with a cutoff wheel as my first choice, it was the only blade actually intended for metal-cutting that I could find at local brick-and-mortar places. It sucks when they blow up in your angle grinder, now just scale up the size a couple times and the energy the flying shards carry a couple more times... My dad suggested I just get a small-toothed blade and turn the blade around for the time being. Is that hideously stupid advice that will get me killed?
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Jul 12, 2012 00:53
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I've heard of that before. Whether it's hideously stupid or not, I can't say, but I have heard of that. Just wear a face shield in case you pop any teeth off. I also can't imagine how it would even work with the way modern blades are designed, it may be an antiquated bit of advice from when blades were just a stamped steel profile. e: Anyhow, long story short, aluminum is pretty forgiving and I bet that with just a crosscut sled, you could get away without any changes to your current table saw configuration. Probably. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 00:56
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Alright, I'll probably make quick experimental cuts with the wheel set both ways on some scrap aluminium flat while I'm decked out in masks n goggles to see what happens. Thanks for the advice though, that crosscut sled idea's brilliant for what I need to do.
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Jul 12, 2012 01:03
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If cutting with the blade normal-wise works out, I wouldn't even try putting it on backward, you're just likely to knock teeth off doing that, and I'd save it for a last resort.  Good luck! Post a trip report for future generations to learn from your horribly gruesome, permanently disfiguring mistakes.
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Jul 12, 2012 01:04
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Your other choice is to buy a pipe cutter like such; Which will cut your pipe with no fuss, but obviously it depends on how much you think you'll use it in your lifetime as to whether you can justify the investment. You can see one in action in this one of Tubalcain's videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRqLKNXlno4 You can skip to 5:00 if you're impatient, but I love listening to the guy. Kim Jong ill fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 05:17
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That's also not a bad idea, I've got smaller pipe-cutters but I don't like 'em because of the burr they leave- but I don't have a reamer to fix it with. Hrrrmmm. Don't pipe-cutters tend to wander in their 'orbit', though? At least in my limited experience, although that could just be lovely tools. Having nice clean even sides is kind of really important for what I'm trying to do- well not 'really' important, I don't have tolerances or anything, i just have to end up with even-looking rounds. Also the pipe sidewall is approaching 1/4" or something ridiculous, which could be a problem- most of the cutting wheels don't seem to have large enough wheels to clear that. ...oh. $350. Well. *sidles out real graceful-like*
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Jul 12, 2012 17:33
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If you don't want the burr on a tube cut with a pipe cutter, put a dowel or smaller tube inside it that fits as snug as you can get it. Problem solved.
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Jul 12, 2012 21:14
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I'm waiting to find out if I've been accepted to a 5½ year Tool & Die apprenticeship with Schaeffler Group. 
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Jul 12, 2012 22:39
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Brekelefuw posted:If you don't want the burr on a tube cut with a pipe cutter, put a dowel or smaller tube inside it that fits as snug as you can get it. Problem solved. I actually wanna get a pound or two of Wood's metal, for small pipe-bending/working. I don't really do anything with small-diameter pipe, to be honest, but I could be...
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Jul 13, 2012 00:09
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I actually wanna get a pound or two of Wood's metal, for small pipe-bending/working. I don't really do anything with small-diameter pipe, to be honest, but I could be... Gunsmithing supply places have cheap low-melt casting metal.
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Jul 13, 2012 00:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I actually wanna get a pound or two of Wood's metal, for small pipe-bending/working. I don't really do anything with small-diameter pipe, to be honest, but I could be... I have been trying to get some wood's metal (cerrobend to be exact) for a year now, but no one ships to Canada, and no place in Canada wills sell me less than 50lb at $50/lb
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Jul 13, 2012 01:32
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Brekelefuw posted:I have been trying to get some wood's metal (cerrobend to be exact) for a year now, but no one ships to Canada, and no place in Canada wills sell me less than 50lb at $50/lb Ugh, really? Rotometals won't do Canada? I've just been assuming... That's bullshit, why? Is it the cadmium in it, or is it just weirdness on the seller's part/s?
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Jul 13, 2012 03:07
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The Proc posted:I'm waiting to find out if I've been accepted to a 5½ year Tool & Die apprenticeship with Schaeffler Group. So basically you're waiting to find out if your life is going to be butter from now on? Good luck man!
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Jul 13, 2012 05:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Ugh, really? Rotometals won't do Canada? I've just been assuming... For some reason, a lot of American companies/Sellers think that shipping to Canada is some difficult process that involves more than writing my name and address on a package and paying the shipping.
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Jul 13, 2012 11:29
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=?8qGHWZm0C-o http://youtu.be/8qGHWZm0C-o Somebody posted this at me on another forum to make me wistful. It worked. On that note, I've been thinking about how to make a wire/bar-twister, because it's something I've been trying to do a lot and it's very difficult to do, say, a multi-strand wire-twist with just a drill and a vice that isn't unuseably uneven because of slight differences in tension or whatever, and I'm considering doing A Wholesaling Thing Because I Need Money so I'd eventually need a way of consistently twisting easily and w/ heavier stock than I can manually, and ideally Without Fire Involved. I was thinkin like a big worm drive unit, with a big hand-crank fitted into the worm and a vice-jaw-chuck thing on the axis of the worm gear. Not super-complicated, it'd just all need to be sturdily mounted in some sort of housing to withstand the torque it'd have to handle. Can I just -buy- matched worm/worm-drive sets from some strange supplier of gearparts that are sturdy enough to deal with twisting, say, a 1/4" bar or something? I hope I don't have to get it machined. Because that will be expensive. I don't care about the particulars of the gears, I don't want to have to care, I just want em to work with one another, be mountable somehow, and be beefy enough to not warp in use or fail or whatever. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 18:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=?8qGHWZm0C-o This place http://www.huco.com/products.asp?cat=261 has a lot of gears in stock but you'd have to contact them about pricing. I'd think putting a mount together for them would be the biggest hurdle, you're going to need shafts and bearings to keep them in place, everything's going to have to line up, etc. I'd try to find some kind of high reduction gearbox that you could buy assembled and then figure out how to mate that to a metalworking lathe. If you find one with a busted motor you could rip the electricals out, put your output from the gearbox into the chuck shaft and slap a big handwheel on the other end. Then you'll have an extremely sturdy base that can handle plenty of torque and big secure clamps on both ends of the workpiece.
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Jul 13, 2012 21:38
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Could you buy a heavy duty winch, and then modify the cable spindle so that the axle has some sort of chuck on it, or a tube that fits the outer diameter of your metal stock like a large socket wrench head. The other end would be attached to a vise or clamp at the other end of your work-space. The winch wouldn't need any cable or anything since you are only using the large cable spindle wheel and axle to spin the metal.
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Jul 13, 2012 23:55
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Brekelefuw posted:Could you buy a heavy duty winch, and then modify the cable spindle so that the axle has some sort of chuck on it, or a tube that fits the outer diameter of your metal stock like a large socket wrench head. The other end would be attached to a vise or clamp at the other end of your work-space. I was thinking of doing this, because Princess Auto has a pre-assembled 2000-pound-rated worm-drive winch for under $100, I'm just not confident in being able to actually modify the axle without it being a shitshow because my methods are Rude n Crude. I'd probably try butt-welding a tiny vice to the axle and just end up decapitating myself when something fails and the wire snaps under great tension. Then again, building the thing from scratch would probably be even more difficult/prone to failure, sooooo. e: if the axle of the winch had a keyway I bet I could find or rig up some hideous coupler to mechanically pop onto the end of the axle, onto which I could weld or mount whatever. Although I suspect that`s a thing that already exists in some capacity. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jul 14, 2012 |
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Jul 14, 2012 00:39
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Ambrose, did you ever get your pipe cutting problem solved? I chopped up a veritable shitload of aluminum stock - bar, and square and round tube - with a cheap Ryobi 10" miter saw and an 80-tooth carbide wood blade. A little beeswax every now and then to lubricate the blade, good clamping to prevent the stock from flying away, and I ended up with dozens of perfect cuts. Just another option to think about, if the stuff you're cutting is small enough in diameter to run through a chop saw anyway.
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Jul 15, 2012 16:26
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Acid Reflux posted:Ambrose, did you ever get your pipe cutting problem solved? I chopped up a veritable shitload of aluminum stock - bar, and square and round tube - with a cheap Ryobi 10" miter saw and an 80-tooth carbide wood blade. A little beeswax every now and then to lubricate the blade, good clamping to prevent the stock from flying away, and I ended up with dozens of perfect cuts. Just another option to think about, if the stuff you're cutting is small enough in diameter to run through a chop saw anyway. I ended up just hacksawing it (it was for a prototype so no big deal), because I was nervous about cutting round pipe without a sled/system of some sort. When I do production I'll most definitely rig up something. That said, I -did- split some 1" aluminium flats down the middle with a cheap carbide blade that was on hand and it went just fine, albeit incredibly noisy because something was out of alignment and the cut pieces were binding at the back end of the blade. Shouldn't be a problem for cutting the pipe up because the segments aren't long enough to cross the entire blade, and I'm sure I could fix whatever's wrong if I really cared enough.
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Jul 16, 2012 23:35
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I wanna put this together for cutting pipe. Will be way, way simpler than building a full 'proper' crosscut sled, but should be fine for cutting just pipe. I was thinkin of using a length of 4x4 for the body of the sled, cutting a big gently caress-off V-shaped gouge in it for bracing the pipe, and attaching the runners (the 'sled' would come up close to the blade but not actually pass it). I'd still be using the fence to set the depth of the cuts, as I'd just push the pipe down the gouge in the sled until it hit the fence, cut, repeat.
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Jul 20, 2012 16:28
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I wanna put this together for cutting pipe. Will be way, way simpler than building a full 'proper' crosscut sled, but should be fine for cutting just pipe. Did you think of using angle iron?
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Jul 20, 2012 16:39
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SmokeyXIII posted:Did you think of using angle iron? If you make it out of wood, you can make it zero-clearance on the blade by just lopping some off once its in place. I'd consider just using a 2x4 on its face, and not having the V be deep enough to completely consume the pipe. Then, if you wanted to clamp the pipe down, you'd have a much easier time doing so. Or even just holding it in place with your hands would be easier. Or, if you wanted, you could do exactly as you described, and make the sled go completely across the blade, so it'll support the workpiece (with zero clearance on the blade) on both sides of the blade, which can be very nice as your cut off piece won't go hopping around. Also, if you use the fence for setting the length, be SURE to use a spacer block so that the pipe doesn't sit tightly between the blade and the fence. If you decide not to do that, please post a video of the amazing kickback and your subsequent trip to the ER. My wife is doing her ER residency and I'm sure would find the removal of an aluminum pipe from someone's abdomen quite fascinating. Alternately, make the sled cross the blade as described, and just clamp a stop where the fence would be. Much safer, and still just as easy. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 17:18
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The only reason I wanted to use a deep gouge was because I'll have to cut from 1" to ~3" OD piping, and if it were too small it wouldn't work with larger pipe sizes. The design's simple enough that making two sleds wouldn't be difficult at all, though... I will ruminate on these things.
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Jul 20, 2012 18:27
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What do you guys think of self-teaching some basic welding? I live kind of out in the boonies and don't want to spend a bunch of money on commuting in for classes at a community college or whatever. I'm a pretty fast learner and love learning by just trying things out. I don't need anything fancy, I just want to be able to weld up the occasional bracket or stand or what have you. What are my odds of actually being able to do this without dying/going blind/losing limbs, and if they're good enough, what sort of welding should I pick for the highest usefulness and ease of learning?
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Jul 22, 2012 23:01
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Bad Munki posted:What do you guys think of self-teaching some basic welding? I live kind of out in the boonies and don't want to spend a bunch of money on commuting in for classes at a community college or whatever. I'm a pretty fast learner and love learning by just trying things out. I don't need anything fancy, I just want to be able to weld up the occasional bracket or stand or what have you. go for it! learn stick first (smaw, shielded metal arc welding) its the most common, and most versatile form of welding. Post pics when you have problems and we can trouble shoot for you.
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Jul 22, 2012 23:07
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Cool, now I just gotta find a welder. Oh, Craigslist  I NEED A STICK WELDER posted:HI I NEED A WELDER the reason i need a welder is because I need to weld stuff I want a stick welder 220v that works and i want to see it work i would prefer a lincoln,miller,or hobbart i dont want a wire feed just a stick if you have any ideas about what you would trade for please ask or something like that thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On a more serious note, is this maybe worth considering? http://ashtabula.craigslist.org/tls/3116401823.html Or would I be better off spending a little more on, say, this? http://erie.craigslist.org/tls/3139674627.html Alternately, I don't mind buying new, if it's worthwhile. If so, feel free to steer me in the right direction.
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Jul 22, 2012 23:19
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