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There's a red E30 hood next to my brother's place that's been marked 'FREE'. Half of the paint is badly oxidized. Is it worth picking up to flip, or should I let it sit?
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Jul 12, 2012 20:59
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Is there a reason NOT to? 
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Jul 12, 2012 21:12
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Drove my 325i for the first time in three months yesterday. It fired up immediately with zero lifter noise and drove like new. Zero stains on the carpet it is parked on. Not bad for 195k miles. Just need to get my drat sunroof back together so I can drive it. Should have the parts in a couple more weeks.
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Jul 12, 2012 21:38
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Binge, have you had your car in to the shop yet? If so, what did they say? I'm taking mine in this evening after work and they're going to look at it in the morning. My CEL has come on at this point, but the car is acting the same it has since the problem started. No I have not yet. It's hard for me to leave it for a day, and I'm going to tackle the whole thing by myself. I'm going to buy the DrVanos unit, and replace it myself. If the garage does it, they're just going to fix the seals, and I want an entire new unit. I'm just waiting for it not to be 90 degrees everyday before I begin, which will probably bring me into early fall, since I also need to buy lots of tools as well.
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Jul 12, 2012 23:00
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So we've got a 7 series in for an exhaustive laundry list of minor and stupid problems, looking up some schematics and I came across this gem. Oh. Well then. Glad we've got that diagram.
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Jul 12, 2012 23:15
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SlapActionJackson posted:Assuming the cable broke, you're probably going to need to smash out the kidney grilles and fish around for the latch. You don't need to go through all that destruction. Depending on model and year you should be able to do something like this. http://www.kneb.net/bmw/E30/BMW%20E30%20M3%20Repair%20Manual/51_Body_Equipment/5123120.htm A large common screw driver in the access port will get your hood open until you fix the cable
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Jul 12, 2012 23:18
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Its an E36 M3. Got it open, but the cable is stretched to the point of uselessness. I think it may even be broken at the latch. I'm not closing my hood til I get it replaced. What a clusterfuck.
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Jul 13, 2012 00:11
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juche mane posted:Is there a way to clear airbag codes via OBDII? I've got a USB and my buddy has Carsoft software which seems to maybe have an option to clear codes but I'm not sure of there's an SRS tool or interface specifically for it. I need to do this as well after doing my window regulator a few weeks ago. There is a BMW Scanner 1.4 that people are pimping over on E46 Fanatics. It's Win XP only or you need an emulator. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=893444 http://www.xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-bmw-scanner-bmw-diagnostic-bmw-scan-tool.html Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 00:32
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That's a cheap chinese clone with hacked software, which isn't a big deal except for the fact it won't work on an e36.
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Jul 13, 2012 01:11
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I bought a peake SRS tool, but that was only because BMW wanted 120 just to read the SRS codes. If your inspections aren't that rigorous, you could probably just pull the bulb from the cluster. I did that with the ASC/ABS on my e36. I'd probably still want to fix whatever is wrong with the airbags though. On the topic of codes, which is considered cylinder bank 1 on the M52? I've got P0133 + P1178 recurring on my e36, and it appears to be "O2 slow response sensor 1 bank 1". I assume sensor 1 is the pre-cat. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 01:14
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Before I built an ADS interface, I had to get an SRS code reset and the first indy BMW shop I called said sure come on down and we'll do it for free. It's worth a shot.
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Jul 13, 2012 01:21
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Crustashio posted:which is considered cylinder bank 1 on the M52?
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Jul 13, 2012 02:56
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bolind posted:On the E8x cars (and probably also E60 and E90 and friends), is it somehow possible to splice into the audio feed? I have an audio signal from, say, a third-party GPS, which will every so often come in play. Any way to get that in over the radio? The headunit in question is the bottom-of-the-barrel one. I'm guessing you want the audio from the GPS played over the speakers? That's not really possible, unless: 1) The GPS has a specific audio output plug, and 2) Your head unit has an Auxiliary input. However, you'd have to have only the Aux input playing then. You can't just splice audio cables together and have sounds from two different sources play through one input. I don't think you'll find a gentle solution without native support for it from both devices, like via Bluetooth or a factory setup.
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Jul 13, 2012 09:02
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DrPain posted:So we've got a 7 series in for an exhaustive laundry list of minor and stupid problems, looking up some schematics and I came across this gem. I picture a puzzled man walking around a parking lot intently comparing that diagram to every car he sees and shaking his head in disappointment.
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Jul 13, 2012 12:12
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Since this is also Mini chat, what is the general take on them? Also, what would a real world MPG estimate be?
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Jul 13, 2012 15:42
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Handle extremely well for a FWD. Very difficult to work on until you know a lot and then they're pretty easy. BMW parts cost but not a BMW.
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Jul 13, 2012 16:29
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revmoo posted:Handle extremely well for a FWD. Very difficult to work on until you know a lot and then they're pretty easy. BMW parts cost but not a BMW. They have a pretty good enthusiast community. I had an '03 and the stereo amp went out, which is like a $1,400 part from the dealer. Got a used one from some dude on Minimania.com for $200 shipped and it worked until we sold it. (Any more and I couldn't justify replacing it vs. going aftermarket)
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Jul 13, 2012 16:37
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Pilsner posted:I'm guessing you want the audio from the GPS played over the speakers? That's not really possible, unless: 1) The GPS has a specific audio output plug, and 2) Your head unit has an Auxiliary input. However, you'd have to have only the Aux input playing then. You can't just splice audio cables together and have sounds from two different sources play through one input. Exactly. I have a aux input, and yeah, I guess I could use that and then I'd only be listening to the GPS. Getting signal out from the GPS is "easy" once I've torn it to pieces (which I intend to do.) I was merely hoping that there was some sort of standard for interrupting or splicing into the audio - much like when traffic radio/RDS comes on.
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Jul 13, 2012 17:07
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How about real world MPG for a standard Cooper vs the S? I've seen anything from 30mpg - 42mpg highway which is what it would be primarily since my wife commutes.
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Jul 13, 2012 18:52
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revmoo posted:Handle extremely well for a FWD. Very difficult to work on until you know a lot and then they're pretty easy. BMW parts cost but not a BMW. A lot of maintenance stories I've heard on those cars seem to start with "step 1: remove front bumper". Definitely never got the vibe they're easy to work on.
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Jul 13, 2012 18:55
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Crustashio posted:A lot of maintenance stories I've heard on those cars seem to start with "step 1: remove front bumper". Definitely never got the vibe they're easy to work on. In the three years we had one (non-S, '03) I didn't have to take the front bumper off once, and I can't think of anything that would require it except maybe replacing the radiator or something. Granted I didn't do much to the car other than standard maintenance but I can assure you that between replacing the serpentine belt, spark plugs, oil/oil filter, brakes, headlight/foglight/driving light bulbs, etc... I never once had to remove it. Could it have been the second generation or something?
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Jul 13, 2012 19:37
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Binge posted:No I have not yet. It's hard for me to leave it for a day, and I'm going to tackle the whole thing by myself. I'm going to buy the DrVanos unit, and replace it myself. If the garage does it, they're just going to fix the seals, and I want an entire new unit. I'm just waiting for it not to be 90 degrees everyday before I begin, which will probably bring me into early fall, since I also need to buy lots of tools as well.
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Jul 13, 2012 19:51
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DrPain posted:So we've got a 7 series in for an exhaustive laundry list of minor and stupid problems, looking up some schematics and I came across this gem. You can join in my Range Rover thread about vehicles about stupid rear end issues with rock solid drive trains. I awaiting your adventures.
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Jul 13, 2012 23:13
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So, Im thinking about buying this guy.. 89 325is, auto  , 230k. Its got a whole host of problems, mostly due to 230k miles of neglect. But it runs and passes smog, and other than being FILTHY i think it may not be too bad. Oh, and zero rust, its a california car.So what Im hoping someone can tell me is whats wrong with the seats. The drivers side has something broken, it leans badly to the left. Will fixing this require welding? Ive read that the 'tabs' can break and require welding, but Im not sure if thats my problem until I can take it apart. Anyone ever fixed these seats before? The other thing concerning me was the guy telling me the thermostat is bad, which is why it reads hot. He swears its just the thermostat. It seemed to run alright, though. As long as it makes it home.. If I go through with buying this thing, would there be interest in a thread? Plans are massive cleaning, fixing broken crap, swearing, asking dumb questions, mild performance junk, and possibly over ambitious 5 speed swap.
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Jul 14, 2012 19:36
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hedgegnome posted:So, Im thinking about buying this guy.. Is it for sale for $200? Unless the price is just absolutely amazing, find another car...
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Jul 14, 2012 19:53
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Seat lean is probably due to the ratchet mechanism that holds the seat back up missing some teeth (at least I think it works this way on the e30). Probably need to cannibalize another seat to fix it. Honestly though, why buy a 230k automatic e30? It's going to be tragically slow. E30s are great cars to learn on/work on, but I'd at least hold out for a 5spd. To me the only worthwhile 5spd swap candidate would be one in immaculate shape.
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Jul 14, 2012 20:06
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Crustashio posted:Honestly though, why buy a 230k automatic e30? It's going to be tragically slow. E30s are great cars to learn on/work on, but I'd at least hold out for a 5spd. To me the only worthwhile 5spd swap candidate would be one in immaculate shape. Well, im trying to sell my volvo with no luck. This guy wants to trade his for mine. The deal works out to being his car and 900 bucks for my car, so 1500 for the bmw. Im afraid its going to be even more of a basket case than I want to deal with, though.
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Jul 14, 2012 21:56
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So, I got a newbie question. e36 m3. One of my front sway bar end links busted-out and bent. Part should be here on Tuesday and I'm putting in new suspension today (which has been an adventure in its own). I should be OK to go without those for a few days, right? Should I take off the front sway bar too, or just leave it be? Basically, my understanding is that it should be OK, it's just not going to be tip-top performance shape without the sway bar/endlinks, right?
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Jul 14, 2012 22:41
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Minimaul posted:So, I got a newbie question. Will anything hit the bar (ie control arm) when the suspension compresses/rebounds? If not you'll be fine.
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Jul 14, 2012 22:50
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Thanks. Looks like it could... I'll take it out just to be safe. I can move the bar by hand. So under load it will probably shift. Got a set of Bilstein shocks and doing the suspension on this has been nothing but a son of a bitch. Tried the other weekend took me four hours to get one bolt off, just to find out the upper spring perches didn't match the new struts with the Vorschlag camber plates. Put it back together ordered parts and now this. Ugh. I haven't even gotten to the rear of the car. I'm afraid what will happen when I do. Ha. Oh well. It's a good learning experience.
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Jul 14, 2012 23:00
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Minimaul posted:Oh well. It's a good learning experience. I am glad the resident relationship expert is diving into the BMW world. Guess what? I sacked up and severed the crazy ex. She didn't support my hobbies or me. Wanted me to move into a place that was way higher than what I wanted to spend on rent, and said that if I lost my job, I could sell my vehicles. Bitch  In BMW news, I found out that my right front rim has a slight bend in it. gently caress. So its either 1. Spend 500 on a new rim. 2. Buy a set of Style 166 M5 rims for 1000.
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Jul 14, 2012 23:54
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Minimaul posted:Thanks. Looks like it could... I'll take it out just to be safe. I can move the bar by hand. So under load it will probably shift. Honestly, the rear is a LOT easier with very little to go wrong. Unbolt the shock, stand on the trailing arm, pull the spring out. I could probably do a rear suspension swap on an e36 in about 30 mins per side, and most of that is removing the drat 6x9s and trunk insulation. The front is a massive pain in the rear end even with a good spring compresser and a helper.
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Jul 14, 2012 23:58
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^^ - Just got done with the fronts. Four hours to do them by myself. A few little hick-ups here and there but I managed it. Going to take it for a test drive before I start on the rears. Hopefully I can get the rears done tonight and there's no surprises. BrokenKnucklez posted:I am glad the resident relationship expert is diving into the BMW world. Glad to hear you're taking care of #1. Gotta do what ya gotta do. I've been lurking in here for awhile. I've had my m3 for about 2 years now. Absolutely love the car, but some times it can be a real rear end in a top hat. heh. One of my Kosei's are bent too. Haven't been able to fix yet cause I haven't been working for the past 3-4 months. But I just got a new, better paying job and I start in a week so I'll be able fix things up a lot easier now that I can afford parts.
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Jul 15, 2012 01:01
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Old 'n Busted New Hottness  It only took 7 weeks and $5,400! (Which I didn't pay a penny of) . They also color-matched it perfectly despite the difference in the photos. They also painted over a few bad scratches I had on my trunk. 
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Jul 15, 2012 03:29
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^^ looks drat good. Well, I finally finished. Rears didn't take very long and the hardest part about it was the trunk liner. I'm still cussing about the trunk liner. That poo poo pissed me off. Getting the front sway bar and end links on there shouldn't be too bad when I do it later this coming week.
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Jul 15, 2012 03:42
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I always thought an e30 would be easier to work on than an e34, but it always sounds like that's not true.
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Jul 15, 2012 03:51
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I found that my E39 was pretty easy to wrench on, even with the massive V8 in the way. Hell, I admit it, the E60, for having electronics every where, is pretty easy to work on. But every one here knows I am a 5'er fan. I still think its a pretty drat good blend of comfort and sport. With a little work, they are capable cars. I really want to find another 5'er to wrench on. The only problem is the only E34's in my area is .. A 90 535i that is a complete basket case... and an Auto. A 94 530i that well.. Its a 3.0 V8. Not all that fun if you ask me. And its an Auto. A 93 525i that is high on miles, but its a stick.
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Jul 15, 2012 04:18
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Wow, I was just cleaning my 2003 E46 and I noticed the bixenon headlights are manufactured by AL... I had always been told that all E46s from the 2002 facelift onwards had crappy ZKW xenons and their easily-scorched plastic reflector bowls. This is a pleasant surprise. I take it, then, that the ZKWs are only on the 2004 and later models?
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Jul 15, 2012 06:02
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bolind posted:On the E8x cars (and probably also E60 and E90 and friends), is it somehow possible to splice into the audio feed? I have an audio signal from, say, a third-party GPS, which will every so often come in play. Any way to get that in over the radio? The headunit in question is the bottom-of-the-barrel one. I installed this: http://modmynav.com/package.html in my 135. You can choose aftermarket audio and video sources through your idrive controls with it.
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Jul 15, 2012 11:31
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I found that my E39 was pretty easy to wrench on, even with the massive V8 in the way. Hell, I admit it, the E60, for having electronics every where, is pretty easy to work on. Even the more modern 'simple' BMWs are not too terribly daunting under the hood. The new 5s are getting a bit crazy, like the 7s have been for a long time, but most of the N/A inline 6s are surprisingly simple. My E82's engine bay is a bit crowded because it has a relatively huge engine for such a small car, but there's nothing in there that screams "futuristic black box DONT TOUCH" like recent stuff from Mercedes, Audi, etc. You want simple though? Get an E21 or a 2002! I think there is more unoccupied volume than engine in those bays.
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Jul 15, 2012 15:35
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