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uptown posted:
I  newfies so, so muchLook at them giant paws 
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Jul 13, 2012 23:19
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coyo7e posted:I sent an email to a breeder, inquiring about her upcoming litters and the like with my usual spiel, and she replied, among other things, that "all of our dogs are sold with 1-year health gaurantees." Like the other guys said, it depends, but puppy mills and bybs offer the same thing as well usually, and are actually pretty notorious for it. Just a quick google brings up https://www.littlepuppiesonline.com an obvious puppy mill that sells teacup dogs. In their About Us section, they mention quote:All of our puppies are vet checked, up to date on vaccinations, and come with one year replacement warranty. Lots of places do it, so it's not really a sign of quality. You don't want just vet checks, vaccinations, health guarantees, or warranties, you'll want a breeder that actually genetically tests their breeding stock for issues common in the breed. For example, reputable Golden Retriever breeders really try to screen for cancer in any of the dogs they breed and any of the offspring they produce, because cancer is a huge cause of death in goldens. One breeder I knew was so proud of producing cancer-free goldens that as soon as cancer started showing up in her line, she was so devastated that she quit breeding altogether. Most reputable breeders are willing to take back any of their dogs at any time regardless of what happens, health or money wise, so "1 year guarantees" are redundant at that point. Plus many genetic health issues that occur in dogs won't manifest for several years. I mean, it's not a deal breaker by any means, but be sure to take it into account when looking at what else the breeder does in terms of preserving and maintaining the physical health of the dogs they're breeding. If they offer that in ADDITION to health testing, no probs. But if that's ALL they offer in terms of acknowledging the healthiness of the dogs they're breeding, I'd consider it a huge red flag and look elsewhere.
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Jul 14, 2012 00:45
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I would consider anything under a two-three year health guarantee a huge red flag, personally. Most heritable genetic disorders don't even show up until the dog is past maturity at 2-3yrs old, and most dogs are still physically puppies at one year. The best breeders offer lifetime health guarantees, and if I'm paying the $$ for a purebred pup, you can bet your rear end I'd only pay for a lifetime guarantee. Every time I see a 1-year guarantee I tend to consider that a less-than reputable breeder.
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Jul 14, 2012 00:53
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Captain Foxy posted:I would consider anything under a two-three year health guarantee a huge red flag, personally. Most heritable genetic disorders don't even show up until the dog is past maturity at 2-3yrs old, and most dogs are still physically puppies at one year. The best breeders offer lifetime health guarantees, and if I'm paying the $$ for a purebred pup, you can bet your rear end I'd only pay for a lifetime guarantee. Pi is from a breeder who I've been happy with. No guarantees were given when I bought Pi except for the little that's provided by law. Pi's breeder has always helped me out if I've needed advice (in the beginning more than now, obviously) and when Pi's hereditary health issues started to pop up when he was about two or three years old, she contacted me on her own to tell me she was sorry, asked if she could help in any way and to offer me another pup should I want one. I didn't, but I appreciated the gesture. Even with the benefit of hindsight, Pi's issues were difficult or impossible to predict when she was planning the litter so I can't really blame her.
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Jul 14, 2012 06:00
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Riiseli posted:But I would limit nighttime water access, if I got an amusement drinker. If my dog gets a bowl of water in the crate, she tips it over and plays in it. Even heavy bowls. Steps on the front with all her retard strength and flings the water. She used to do this with bowls outside of the crate too when she was done drinking out of them. 
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Jul 14, 2012 06:08
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Topoisomerase posted:If my dog gets a bowl of water in the crate, she tips it over and plays in it. Even heavy bowls. Steps on the front with all her retard strength and flings the water. She used to do this with bowls outside of the crate too when she was done drinking out of them.
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Jul 14, 2012 06:53
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Rixatrix posted:I consider any guarantee to be a bit suspicious. A good breeder will know you cannot give guarantees of any kind - they can only do their best, and something still might pop up. Figuring out a good breeder is very much a word of mouth thing since you cannot know in advance how the breeder will react five years on when the dog is having trouble. Moses came from a breeder I like. His guarantee: "HEY NOW YA'LL KNOW IF YA'LL EVER DON'T WANT HIM OR HE DON'T TURN OUT RIGHT JUST BRING HIM BACK HERE AND I'LL TAKE HIM BACK AND GIVE YOU WHAT YOU PAID FOR HIM OR ANOTHER PUP IF YOU FEEL LIKE WAITIN ON ONE" So if his hips poo poo themselves and I'm really mad about it, there is always a trailer for me to dump him out in front of. I can totally get my $150 back too!  A good breeder is knowledgeable and honest about what health problems the lines they work with are at risk for. I'm more wary of someone who ~totally guarantees~ against everything ever than someone who is up front about the gritty details of what they're breeding and any potential issues with it. Good breeders should health test, but a dog that scores well on health tests does not necessarily = perfect puppies.
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Jul 14, 2012 15:16
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What shots should the breeder do before I take home a puppy at around 8-10 weeks?
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Jul 14, 2012 21:12
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tonic316 posted:What shots should the breeder do before I take home a puppy at around 8-10 weeks? I'd expect it to have a first distemper/parvo vaccination at that age along with at least one pyrantel oral deworming by that point. I would want a vet to do it though, not the breeder, so that you'd know it was properly handled and given and would have an official medical record that the puppy had been given a physical exam and the vaccination. It is possible for the breeder to buy that vaccination in a feed store and give it themself, but you would have no idea if the vaccine was properly handled or injected in the right spot, which would make it a waste of money. If the breeder hasn't done anything yet and the puppy is ready to go, just make a vet appointment for a day or so after you bring the puppy home and get it all done then.
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Jul 14, 2012 22:41
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Enelrahc posted:I'd expect it to have a first distemper/parvo vaccination at that age along with at least one pyrantel oral deworming by that point. I would want a vet to do it though, not the breeder, so that you'd know it was properly handled and given and would have an official medical record that the puppy had been given a physical exam and the vaccination. It is possible for the breeder to buy that vaccination in a feed store and give it themself, but you would have no idea if the vaccine was properly handled or injected in the right spot, which would make it a waste of money. If the breeder hasn't done anything yet and the puppy is ready to go, just make a vet appointment for a day or so after you bring the puppy home and get it all done then. So its not uncommon to get a puppy at 8 weeks with no shots done?
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Jul 14, 2012 23:29
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tonic316 posted:So its not uncommon to get a puppy at 8 weeks with no shots done? Well it somewhat depends on the vaccination labeling and the risk of the individual puppy. As far as not uncommon? Well people are cheap, which is not uncommon. I would expect a responsible breeder to have taken their puppies to a veterinarian before selling to a new owner for wellness checkups and starting of the vaccinations at 8 weeks of age. I'd assume that someone selling 8 week old puppies with no vaccinations has also never taken those puppies for a wellness visit, so I'd attach a buyer beware disclaimer as to the health status of the puppy. If the puppy appears healthy and the breeder is otherwise reputable (as outlined in the OP), then take the puppy ASAP to the vet for wellness visit and the first vaccinations and dewormings.
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Jul 15, 2012 00:19
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Enelrahc posted:Well it somewhat depends on the vaccination labeling and the risk of the individual puppy. As far as not uncommon? Well people are cheap, which is not uncommon. I plan on signing up for Banfield Pet Hospitals monthly wellness plan. Its with Petsmart. Has anyone ever used them?
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Jul 15, 2012 06:53
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tonic316 posted:I plan on signing up for Banfield Pet Hospitals monthly wellness plan. Its with Petsmart. Has anyone ever used them? Is that the $2,000 lifetime plan or whatever? Just find a local vet you like. Bones if it's AAHA certified
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Jul 15, 2012 09:48
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Incredulous Red posted:Is that the $2,000 lifetime plan or whatever? It's $35.95 a month. $431.40 annually which includes a spay or neuter surgery. And with that you get 3 Fecal exams and 4 dewormings. All your puppy vaccines, comprehensive physical exam, diagnostic testing.
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Jul 15, 2012 15:28
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tonic316 posted:It's $35.95 a month. $431.40 annually which includes a spay or neuter surgery. And with that you get 3 Fecal exams and 4 dewormings. All your puppy vaccines, comprehensive physical exam, diagnostic testing. My boss has it. I personally think it goes a little overboard on the yearly physical exams. He has to put his dog under every year for a teeth cleaning & X-ray whereas I've had one of my dogs for four years and he's never had to have a teeth cleaning or X-ray done. Putting dogs under anesthesia is a huge risk IMO and I can't justify doing it yearly like they do. It's an okay plan I guess? I just think they charge more and then do lots of non required tests that could potentially hurt your dog in the long run. Also I've noticed banfield vets vary wildly as far as quality and care are concerned. I've met some decent banfield vets and I've met some BAAAAD vets. I'd figure out if you like your vet first before signing any insurance plan. Banfield is really a cheaper option for vet work and cheaper obviously doesn't equal better. Plus on a kinda unrelated note, it makes me uncomfortable that they put the vet clinic in the back of stores because I've seen people with parvo puppies drag their making GBS threads puppy through the store to get to the clinic, then other people bring their unvaccinated puppies in the store to go shopping or to the vet. It seems like a contamination nightmare. I dunno. I avoid banfield because I just don't think they're good quality vets on the whole, regardless of insurance or not.
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Jul 15, 2012 16:22
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So I just met a puppy today that I'm considering adopting. He's a five month old rat terrier/ Chinese crested mix (they know this for sure). I'm a cat person so I'm a little confused if his demeanor is positive or could turn out to be a bundle of neurosis later on. First he submissive peed when he met me, but then he basically submissive wiggled into my lap and stayed there. wiggle wiggle wiggle. It took him a while to relax (about 20 mins) but he was friendly and cuddly the whole time, he never hid or tried to spend all his time with the rescue folks. My six year old son startled him on several occasions but he always seemed curious and interested in what was going on, although he'd go back into a submissive pose (peeeeee) but he didn't retreat. Eventually when I took the rescue lady on a short tour to show her the back yard, my son and the pup followed. The pup was submissive and cautious but seemed very determined to follow us and investigate. It seemed like a good sign that while his sister gave no fucks about anything, he seemed very intent on us and curious about us. So much so that when my son went in to put on shoes he watched the door for him to return. What does this mean? Does this sounds like a good beginner dog? We would be novice dog owners. No matter what dog I get I'll be doing puppy obedience and crate training him, but I want to make sure I'm not starting off with a difficult dog.
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Jul 15, 2012 17:16
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A dog that pees that much is probably more insecure and anxious than "submissive". He might be going through a second fear period and you may have to work to make him more confident in his surroundings (training and dog sports are great for this) and as he grows he'll probably pee less. The thing is that he may also start acting much differently. Rat terriers are feisty and active little dogs. Be prepared for barking and leaping and chewing and general pain in the rear end-ness. If you do regular training and keep him physically worn out with plenty of exercise and puzzle toys he will probably be a perfectly manageable little beast though. It depends on how much you are willing to put in and what your lifestyle is like.
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Jul 15, 2012 18:27
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Instant Jellyfish posted:good stuff. Yeah, I think you are telling me what I was thinking. I was somewhat wary of the whole "rat terrier" thing. I asked what his energy level was going to be (they have the mom) and the rescue lady seems to think they'll be moderate and that a couple of walks and running around my (large) yard would be enough. I'm uncertain of that. When you say "Be prepared for barking and leaping and chewing and general pain in the rear end-ness." Do you mean because he's a puppy or because of breed traits.
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Jul 15, 2012 18:45
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Yeah, I think you are telling me what I was thinking. I was somewhat wary of the whole "rat terrier" thing. I asked what his energy level was going to be (they have the mom) and the rescue lady seems to think they'll be moderate and that a couple of walks and running around my (large) yard would be enough. I'm uncertain of that. Both will contribute to that. Rat terriers are terriers; they want to bark and jump and nip and kill things. Exercise levels can vary wildly and a parent's level =/= the offspring's. My JRT's litter is all different in how much exercise they need. You could get lucky and have him basically be a terrier looking crested, but with the possible anxiety he's showing I'd guess he'll require quite a lot of work. What were you thinking/requiring explicitly for this dog, in terms of exercise schedule etc? And are you willing and able to deal with potential dog aggression? It's common amongst terriers (though iirc slightly less so in rats).
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Jul 15, 2012 18:53
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Yeah, I think you are telling me what I was thinking. I was somewhat wary of the whole "rat terrier" thing. I asked what his energy level was going to be (they have the mom) and the rescue lady seems to think they'll be moderate and that a couple of walks and running around my (large) yard would be enough. I'm uncertain of that. Both  Puppies are little hellions in general but every rat terrier I've met have been barky, spring-loaded little spitfires. "Moderate" energy is very subjective too. A moderately active terrier is still a lot to handle for a lot of people. How long of walks were you planning on? Were you planning on just setting him in the yard and hoping he would exercise himself or would you/your kid be out with him playing? Is it possible to take the pup for a trial run for a while? I know the rescue I got my dog from does a 2 week trial period as a rule in addition to accepting dogs back at any point if anything happens and you can't keep it.
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Jul 15, 2012 19:01
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So my dog Lola has been home with us for a few weeks and she's fantastic. But she doesn't play. We can't get her to play. She's always up for being pet and she's very food motivated so when she's learning she's very excited. She's great on a leash when we go for walks but otherwise she's very very lazy. I have some toys, a ball, a squeaky toy, a rope. She cares very little about any of them. When we're out in the yard she just wants to come back inside. When I went to the vet she said that it's likely that my dog didn't have any toys when she was a puppy and didn't get to play so she may not know how to. So how do I teach her? 
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Jul 15, 2012 19:25
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Fraction posted:What were you thinking/requiring explicitly for this dog, in terms of exercise schedule etc? And are you willing and able to deal with potential dog aggression? It's common amongst terriers (though iirc slightly less so in rats). To answer this and Instant Jellyfish at the same time. Any dog we get I was planning to do morning and evening walks at least from the end of our cul du sac to the road (.4 miles) and back and then out in the yard to play with the kid/me. As far as dog aggression, I would try to socialize through puppy obedience and then later maybe agility or fly ball class. But since whatever dog we get would be an only dog in a house with two cats...It's not dog aggression I'm worried about. I've been in the market for a mutty mutt but it seems ever since "kitten season" started there haven't been as many dogs that meet my criteria. Just for FYI here is my wish list: young dog to 3 years old. So not a puppy. not a pitbull (nothing against them, just not for us) not a large dog good with kids and cats loves to play fetch Already house broken likes to stick near his people in the yard not a high energy dog (we are a goony bunch at my house, the dog would help get me more active, but I don't want to turn some poor dog into a mess because we can't keep up) ----super bonus traits-- great on a leash is fluffy
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Jul 15, 2012 20:31
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Feel free to ask me to post in a different thread, or start my own, but I figured the new dog thread would be best for this type of question. We are looking for a new Vet for our 7 year old Maltese, Charlie. Charlie has always gone to Banfield, but after our most recent experience (*DRAMA*), I want to find a local one that isn't part of a big chain. But, I'm concerned that now I'm going to be paying an arm and a leg. So: 1. What should I look for in a vet (I already read the OP) / Anyone know of a good vet in Arlington VA? 2. Do other vets offer Banfield-like health plans? 3. If no to #2, are there national health plans for dogs? 4. Should I not care about a health plan and just pay as I go? Thanks in advance!
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Jul 15, 2012 20:37
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:To answer this and Instant Jellyfish at the same time. 2 daily walks of half a mile or so each really isn't going to cut it for structured walks. I assume by playing in the yard you mean pretty much endless fetch - that's likely what you'll be doing. Terrier mix with cats can work, but there can be some issues depending on how high the dog's prey drive is. Do you know if this dog is cat-tested and okay? And with DA, it's more a case of you might have to work to be able to keep your dog's focus around strange dogs, etc. If you aren't planning on dog parks and are planning on dog sports then a terrier mix could work pretty well though. Honestly, terriers and terrier mixes are not really recommended for young children. That the pup was startled by your child isn't a good sign; a nervous terrier will tend to react first by barking and biting, because that is what they want to do and that feels good for them. That the pup already shows anxiety at a young age isn't a good sign at all; I'd be wary of one of your child's friends startling it and sending it into a reactive burst. (Some reactive terriers shut down, but most do respond aggressively to threatening situations.) I actually think you'd be better suited to a general mutty mutt or maybe an older lab or something. An older lab would love to play endless fetch, and would be more likely to be more tolerant of children, less anxious and needy, etc.
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Jul 15, 2012 21:02
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Thanks for the input all. You are only re-enforcing what my gut is telling me. The rescuer says they are good with kids and cats, but then in the next breath says they haven't been around kids or cats. The rescuer says they are like little couch potatoes, but how can she know that. The dog was hopping around on the grass and she made a comment that he wasn't used to grass, and in the back of my mind I'm wondering if she's fostering him in a parking lot. I'll give it a day and send a nice note that a puppy will be to much for us.
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Jul 15, 2012 21:14
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Kiss Kiss Bang Bang posted:Thanks for the input all. You are only re-enforcing what my gut is telling me. A 5 month old dog who isn't comfortable being on grass? Yikes. That does not sound like a great foster situation. I think you're making a good decision, as tough as it is to walk away from a cute little puppy. I would go ahead and write down your list of things that you need, want but are flexible about, and absolutely can't have in a dog and present them to some rescues in your area that foster their dogs. They'll help guide you to a dog that will fit your life and family and may be able to keep their ears open even if they don't have a dog that will work for you. Good rescues are great at networking.
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Jul 15, 2012 21:25
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dexter6 posted:Feel free to ask me to post in a different thread, or start my own, but I figured the new dog thread would be best for this type of question. I think this is mostly a question about pet insurance if I'm understanding you correctly. You should look into some of the plans yourself, because this is something that's undergone a lot of changes in the last couple of years. In my experience, however, almost all of the pet insurance plans out there don't cover anything that they deem pre-existing, which will be literally almost anything short of getting hit by a car or breaking a leg. Any health concerns that develop with age and are expensive to treat are going to fall under this category and your insurance won't cover it. The exception to this, is some puppy plans that you have to purchase immediately upon getting your animal, and it's obviously too late for those. My personal feeling is that it's more cost effective to treat it yourself and try to keep your pet healthy, but this requires that you have some savings put away for things like this (and if you don't you're not being a responsible owner -- all the excuses in the world don't matter, it's part of the job). That said -- there may be some newer options on the insurance route than when I looked a couple of years ago, so if anyone has anything worth adding to the OP, please post.
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Jul 15, 2012 23:40
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moechae posted:My boss has it. I personally think it goes a little overboard on the yearly physical exams. He has to put his dog under every year for a teeth cleaning & X-ray whereas I've had one of my dogs for four years and he's never had to have a teeth cleaning or X-ray done. Putting dogs under anesthesia is a huge risk IMO and I can't justify doing it yearly like they do. I almost totally agree. I was in a Banfield recently because I had to get George a rabies shot on short notice (thought I had another year, looked at my paperwork and realized he was two months overdue and needed proof of vaccination for an event that weekend) and our regular vet couldn't fit us in, plus I had a coupon so I only had to pay for the shot itself. I also worked in Petsmart for awhile and definitely had a lot of issues with Banfield. It is hugely dependent on the office, some very good vets work there but the hiring standards are lax so some bad ones work there as well. I worked in two stores and at one I actually wound up picking them as my vets because I saw a lot of good things, but in the other you couldn't have paid me to take my pets there. My one quibble is that I did actually have my pets on a wellness plan and I was not required to do very much. It was quite a few years ago when I was working there so things may have changed, but at the time the wellness plans just gave you the option of having the covered services. If you're interested in a Banfield wellness plan, I'd definitely recommend asking explicitly about what is required vs. what is covered but optional. Also be sure to ask about how opting out of covered services might affect future coverage. For example, if you opt out of yearly dental x-rays but your dog later develops a tooth problem, how would your choice to opt out of x-rays affect that? So I guess this can be summed up as: if you are lucky enough to have a good Banfield nearby and if the coverage suits your needs, it can actually save you quite a bit of money. Those are some big ifs though and you should do a lot of research before signing up. I do think the best option is to just put the money you'd spend on a pet health plan into a savings account used only for pet emergencies. That's what I do after thoroughly researching a lot of pet insurance plans.
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Jul 16, 2012 01:41
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I have personally had a great experience with pet insurance. Pre-existing wasn't anything, as long as your animal had had a physical exam saying they are healthy. Since I've gotten my cats, I've dealt with a foreign body ($1500), partial obstruction ($200) and the associated pet food costs that come with FLUTD (about another $200 so far), and asthma (probably at least $500 by now and counting). Because the cats were not diagnosed with these when I first got them on insurance, none of these were considered pre-existing and the insurance company so far has done a great job of processing my claims and reimbursing me for costs.
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Jul 16, 2012 01:47
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Yeah, thinking about it some more, the reason I ruled out pet insurance was that a lot of policies I looked at had exclusions for work/sport-related injuries and for hereditary issues. Since most of my dogs are very clearly purebred or mostly so (they're all rescues but I've done breed rescue so...) and they're all working dogs so hereditary issues and work-related issues were two of my biggest concerns, most pet insurance wouldn't cover the issues I was worried about. Insurance policies vary a lot and situations vary even more--even some people on my SAR team (part of the reason I decided against covering George) have insurance on their SAR dogs. With all my dogs there was just enough potential preexisting conditions and otherwise non-covered but likely issues that it wasn't worth it for me, especially because I'm in an area where vet costs are low. So I guess I could have summed this up a lot better if I had simply said, "Research potential options thoroughly and decide whether it is worth it for your individual situation."
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Jul 16, 2012 02:10
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 More Shanti questions! Okay, so we've got crate training down. We get up every 2 or so hours for a pee, and luckily he gives nary a gently caress about thunderstorms, because we had a crazy storm last night and had to keep going out in the lightening/thunder/pouring rain. However, during the day, I take him out every 2 or so hours to get him to go to the bathroom and 99% of the time he both pees and poops. I'm just wondering when he'll know to give me a sign of any sort before he needs to go? I have read the housetraining guide linked in the OP as to teaching him to ring a bell after several weeks of no accidents, but the housetraining guide also states to slip a leash on the dog to take him out. Shanti doesn't understand the leash yet, and won't move when I hold it and it's on. We're working on getting him desensitized to it by me playing with him when he's leashed, distracting him from chewing it using toys, etc etc. I am right now, picking Shanti up if it seems like an emergency (I know his "poo walk") and taking him outside, since I don't want him to get averse to the leash. Otherwise, during the day (not at night when we rush out and rush in so he doesn't get too alert) I make a trail with small bits of treats or kibble to get him to walk to the door. Is this a mistake? If so, what should I do? Drag him with the leash? I really hope I don't sound like an underprepared idiot when it comes to dog ownership. I read everything I could find before getting him, with regards to training, but obviously things need to be a little different in practice than ideal written situations.  Here he is learning to sit! That's tape on my lino, not poo or anything gross... Not sure why it's there though.
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Jul 16, 2012 02:27
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Incredulous Red posted:http://www.oregonlive.com/portland/index.ssf/2012/07/southeast_portland_man_loses_d.html Seriously. I've been in a similar situation. I lost my absolutely amazing dog that I'd had for 11 years at that point (and it was a few years ago). We were having to kennel the dogs in an outdoor dog run when we were gone, which wasn't my preference but due to renovations in our home it just wasn't safe to keep them in, plus someone was almost always home. The one day we left them unattended for about 6 hours he and his buddy dug out of their kennel. The buddy stayed home, he wandered and was picked up by a local cowboy who'd been wanting a dog like that. My dog was missing for 9 weeks. I was devastated and sure he was dead, because I knew he'd come home if he could. I notified the county shelter for my own county and all the neighboring ones in case he'd been picked up by a traveler, notified all the vets, put up flyers in every feed store and grocery store and pet supply store in the area, called everyone I knew, posted it to every website I could think of, everything I could possibly think of. Finally after those 9 weeks I got a call from the manager of the local feed store. He said he'd seen my dog come in with a customer he recognized and gave me the guy's name and number. I called and he brushed me off. I drove by and it was definitely my dog, but he was in a locked yard and I couldn't get to him. The guy who had him was less than 10 miles from my home. I called the shelter and the sheriff's office (who handled animal control in my county). The guy who had my dog swore he'd had him for years. I had pictures and vet records but he is a fairly nondescript dog so it wasn't enough proof. He was microchipped though and I had my current info on file and had called to put an alert on him as soon as I realized he was gone (so when the vet or whoever scans it, it tells them that someone is looking for the dog). Soon as the sheriff's deputy saw the scan he told the cowboy that the dog could be returned to me immediately, or the cowboy could be arrested for theft since while he had just picked up a loose dog, he hadn't notified anyone about finding the dog and so hadn't met the legal burden. So I got my dog back. I've seen it from the other side as well, just with less personal involvement. Microchips are a huge thing and should be given to every pet.
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Jul 16, 2012 03:39
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MrFurious posted:My personal feeling is that it's more cost effective to treat it yourself and try to keep your pet healthy, but this requires that you have some savings put away for things like this (and if you don't you're not being a responsible owner -- all the excuses in the world don't matter, it's part of the job). I've had an insurance on my dogs and not had one. Having multiple dogs of quite healthy breeds there has been exactly three instances where I could have gotten reimbursements from the insurance company. In -06 Naru (2 yrs at the time) had a UTI, which cost me 200 euros. (That's more than is usual, since the first antibiotic didn't quite work. At first she seemed fine, but then the symptoms came back and I took her for an ultrasound since it was plausible it could've been a pyometra, but nope. This time around they drew a urine sample during the ultrasound straight from her bladder. There were bacteria present, so we got another antibiotic. It didn't work at all, so I called my original vet (she doesn't have ultrasound equipment) and she called one more description for antibiotics to my local pharmacy. That finally took care of the UTI and we've not had any since (or before). Things would have been easier if the **** bacteria would've grown in the lab, so they could have made sure it was sensitive to the antibiotics they prescribed, but it wouldn't on either occasion. Even the very fresh and 'clean sample, where bacteria were observed under the microscope, didn't grow...) In -08 Naru broke off the tip of her canine and fixing that cost me 500 euros. In -11 Healy had such a bad cut in her paw, she needed stitches, that was 120 euros. Healy has had an eye infection once (-09), but that was so inexpensive to treat the insurance company wouldn't have reimbursed me anything. Other than these my girls have been quite healthy, so six yrs of Aura (I did spay her, but that wouldn't have been covered by an insurance), eight yrs of Naru, five yrs of Healy and 7mos of TyTy and that's all there's been to do. My first dog, sheltie Lucky (we had him for 8yrs), did need to have his teeth cleaned under sedation and he also developed some prostate issues in his old age, which lead to him being castrated, but those wouldn't have fallen under any coverage either, since the costs were low and he was quite old by the time of his castration. He had broken his paw before he came to us and that required some medical management, but the yearly costs of that were again below any coverage. Currently Healy and TyTy are insured. I'll drop Healy's insurance, when the year is up, since she was only insured as a precaution, when I leased her for a litter this spring. TyTy will remain insured for now as she's a walking accident hazard. (For example she fell through the ice thrice this past winter. None of those situations (twice right by the shore, once in a shallow ditch) were life threatening in any way, such I could've prevented, but nonetheless they did illustrate the possibilities.) uptown posted:Okay, so we've got crate training down. We get up every 2 or so hours for a pee, and luckily he gives nary a gently caress about thunderstorms, because we had a crazy storm last night and had to keep going out in the lightening/thunder/pouring rain. My adult dogs don't give signs, or they do, but never during normal operation. Three to four times is enough at all times, if all is well. However if they do have the runs for example, they'll get extremely pacey and whiny, when they need to go, so that's good enough for me. Picking her up and carrying her out is fine as is letting her follow you out unleashed. Once you are outdoors I'd rather have her drag her leash, if she refuses to move with it on, than to lure her with treats. So walk around with her on a leash for a bit and follow her everywhere she wants to go (two outings like this should be enough). Then you can start walking her along safe paths and if she refuses to follow you, you should be able to just drop her leash and keep going. If she's a typical puppy, she'll follow you when you got a short distance away. This has been my favorite method by far. She wears her collar all the time, I hope. And I recommend a relatively long and light leash for all puppies. That way they'll be quite ok dragging it around when necessary. (I've had countless puppy buyers show up with heavy leashes well fit for a grown dog, which is why I'm quite happy to purchase a suitable, cheap leash and collar for each puppy to give to their new owners.)
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Jul 16, 2012 05:59
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MrFurious posted:(and if you don't you're not being a responsible owner -- all the excuses in the world don't matter, it's part of the job). Honestly, I find opinions like this rather classist. What is the minimum that owners should have put away for canine emergencies? $1000? What if the dog needs surgery that would cost $1500 and they can't afford it - are they irresponsible owners yet? There are so many homeless dogs in the world, and plenty of people on lower incomes who can still give dogs great homes. You don't have to throw thousands of dollars on treatment to be a responsible dog owner - there are other options such as pain management, palliative care, rehoming to a home who can fund the treatment our plain humane euthanasia that will still leave the dog comfortable and happy and/or leaving the world peacefully. Of course a step such as euthanasia would be almost impossibly difficult, emotionally, for the owner, but if it's the only option you can reasonably afford, it's the only option you can reasonably afford. Most owners on low incomes are smart enough to understand that before they get into dog ownership. I love my dogs more than anything, and I'm lucky to have some money to put behind them if they need medical treatment (plus awesome pet insurance), but I also have a financial limit when it comes to veterinary costs. I'm not going to bankrupt myself over my dog and if I reached that limit, I'd have to think about other options. I hate seeing people shamed for being unable to afford the options which are accessible to more fortunate folks. Don't mean to rant at you, but it's one of my little bugbears 
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Jul 16, 2012 09:38
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We've had our 10-week-old Shih Tzu now for a week and he is a very social, adorable little pile of fluff. He's quickly learned what to chew and not to chew, and he's been great with new people and dogs. We're working on 2 issues now. First is getting him used to being alone. We puppy-proofed a bedroom for him, it has his bed, his crate, and various toys like his favorite stuffed animal and a puppy Kong. He HATES being alone, though, and cries incessantly once the door is closed. Fortunately I work from home, so he's only really alone in the house for a few hours max, once every few days at the least. He's still young, but I want to nip this in the bud as early as possible. The other, more serious issue is housebreaking. I did read the excellent guide in the OP. We did use pads in the first week, placing the dog on them at the scheduled times, because the geography of our building isn't really ideal. We have a wooden deck off the back of the apartment; 3 floors below is a small common backyard that has a lot of different animals using it as their toilet (it's dirt and paving stones, no grass.) There's no front yard, but between the sidewalks and the street there's a strip of grass that is also used as a doggy bathroom (there are a TON of dogs in the neighborhood- you can't walk a block at almost any time of day without seeing someone walking their dog.) So, especially since he's only had his first round of shots (and I know there is some disagreement about this, as posted earlier in the thread) I'm really wary of letting him go in either area. Would I be better off with: - Just taking him down to the common backyard or out front? - Keeping the pads down in the apartment for him as we have now? - Using a piece of sod or a tray out on our deck so he can be quickly put outside to do his thing when the timer goes off? I love the little guy and I want to make sure that we do the best job possible in training him.
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Jul 16, 2012 10:06
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notsoape posted:Honestly, I find opinions like this rather classist. What is the minimum that owners should have put away for canine emergencies? $1000? What if the dog needs surgery that would cost $1500 and they can't afford it - are they irresponsible owners yet? That said, my girlfriend had some people bring a cat they'd adopted into her practice that had a bite access, and they couldn't afford antibiotics, so there's clearly a lower limit there somewhere
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Jul 16, 2012 10:14
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notsoape posted:Honestly, I find opinions like this rather classist. What is the minimum that owners should have put away for canine emergencies? $1000? What if the dog needs surgery that would cost $1500 and they can't afford it - are they irresponsible owners yet? I wonder if this is generally an American owner versus Brit owner thing, because opinions like that always strike me as classist too. There's a difference between not being able to afford sudden, unexpected surgery and not being able to afford routine things (food, flea meds, etc), and I don't think people who earn less should be looked down on for choosing to get pets.
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Jul 16, 2012 11:14
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I think there are important differences in the socio-economic demographics of pet owners in the US and UK, especially in urban areas.
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Jul 16, 2012 12:48
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uptown posted:housetraining and leash stuff You're doing fine with the housetraining. The leash stuff is easy to deal with. If you're using a clicker for training already, great, this is a perfect time to put it to use again (if you're not that's okay, but it's definitely recommended). Put the leash on and encourage the dog to come close to you. Make play motions and sounds, kissy noises, whatever. If you get a step or two towards you, click and treat. Do this throughout the day over and over again, gradually raising the bar and you'll be reinforcing that whenever the dog is close to you on the leash, Good Things happen. notsoape posted:Honestly, I find opinions like this rather classist. What is the minimum that owners should have put away for canine emergencies? $1000? What if the dog needs surgery that would cost $1500 and they can't afford it - are they irresponsible owners yet? You make some excellent points, and it's obviously a bit of a slippery slope. Everyone has their financial limits, and if you've reached them, then you've done the best you can, and it's also an emotional call on quality of life versus the cost as well. My complaints are directed largely at younger owners, but other folks who fit this role as well. Young twenty-somethings who are just out on their own and living paycheck to paycheck but who really want a dog. That's great, but realistically, they can't afford one. They have zero money to spare for basic preventative care let alone training. So they just adopt a stance of denial and get the dog anyways, or worse, they view the animal as relatively disposable. Without derailing the thread too much more, I think we can all agree that if you can't afford to sock away a small portion of your paycheck for minor emergency money, regardless of the amount, you are being a crappy owner. You should be doing it for other things too, not just for your dog. Larry Horseplay posted:More housetraining stuff Sounds like the beginnings of separation anxiety. Make sure you're practicing all of the crate games you should be to start. I also had my first exposure to some SA dogs in my volunteer work this weekend -- I'm going to ask if it's okay for me to circulate some of the training exercises they work to alleviate that, so if so, I'll post what I can. In regards to the potty spot, my personal, non-veterinary opinion is that as long as you're not letting him sniff, trod through or eat poop down there, you're probably fine. Just keep the trips to the grass brief and safe, and the risk is low. You also don't want to be keeping him totally cooped up inside either. You should be starting puppy kindergarten and taking walks as well. This is his socialization period.
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Jul 16, 2012 15:33
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MrFurious posted:My complaints are directed largely at younger owners, but other folks who fit this role as well. Young twenty-somethings who are just out on their own and living paycheck to paycheck but who really want a dog. That's great, but realistically, they can't afford one. They have zero money to spare for basic preventative care let alone training. So they just adopt a stance of denial and get the dog anyways, or worse, they view the animal as relatively disposable. Of course a lot of training is covered by membership fees as was Aura's first obedience class (we didn't do much else as I was able to train her myself), our SAR practises as well as part of our agility classes over the years. As far as non-pet emergencies go we do have pretty comprehensive social security system, so my own emergency situations are pretty well covered by the state i.e. one doesn't need emergency money for themselves. I've also always had my contents insured at all times, so had something happened to all my stuff in my rented home I would've still been good to go.
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Jul 16, 2012 16:44
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