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The main point was that allen wrenches suck but hex head sockets are cool and, yes, ball ends are a great way to break things since you aren't making a good continuous connection with what you are twisting on.
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Jul 9, 2012 15:24
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Nothing wrong with keeping the proper allen wrenches in your on-bike toolkit, though.
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Jul 9, 2012 17:42
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Thanks for the input guys! I ordered a pipe and some jets today from treats along with that Puch tool kit. I'm already having a shitload of fun with this moped. My grandpa died a few years ago, and while we were cleaning out his garage i pulled a tarp off of a pile in the corner. This was underneath:  Since I have no idea what I'm doing, had a great mechanic fix it up. It didn't take much, new fuel lines, new spark plug, and a carb, tank and case oil replacement. The drat tabs on the plate are from 1989, so now i have to get a title. Somewhere in grandpa's Alzheimers he managed to lose/eat/start the title on fire Everything is stock except for the mirror from a Honda Metropolitan. The original mirror was broken. It purrs like a kitten and gets 25mph on straightaways, but I'm still gonna make it go faster. I commute ten miles away, and i want this to be my daily conveyance.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:00
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It was dusty as poo poo when i dragged it out of the garage. I basically spit shined the whole thing. It was kept in pristine shape. It only has 450 miles on it! He only rode it to work, a half mile from his house in St. Paul.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:04
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Looks immaculate. Take the opportunity to look down on other people for having ragged bikes. Really enjoy it. It is very satisfying.
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Jul 9, 2012 23:05
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Here's the monstrosity I built Schwinn Lakeside with a Grubee Skyhawk, now upgraded to a CNS carb, and SBP exhaust. Taken the exhaust off though since it was vibrating pretty bad and trying to find someone that can weld the sucker together so I can mount it and keep it stable. With the exhaust it'll top at about 36 MPH, with the stock exhaust it'll hit about 25 MPH and four stroke like hell. Last upgrade I gave it was a larger Whizzer style tank that holds drat near a gallon of gas but had to make a new gas cap gasket since it leaked worse than the stock tank
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Jul 10, 2012 07:29
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That is quite a monstrosity. I wouldn't want to do 36 on a schwinn without a motor let alone one that rolls around being shook apart by a small engine. And has bicycle brakes. And wheels that are weak. And a frame that will likely break before too long.
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Jul 10, 2012 15:13
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I've not had any issues really. Went with the Kool-Stop brake pads and changed the rims to heavy duty rims with 12 gauge spokes. It stops on a dime with no issues. Hardly any vibration from the motor, you just need to mount the plates flush with the frame and not use those useless "vibration dampeners" aka rubber strips. I hardly pass 25, ever. No road around here I ride on has a speed limit beyond that. Hell, the Huffy I had prior to this lasted me four years with no issues and was finally put down by a car hitting it.
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Jul 10, 2012 16:05
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As long as it's a steel frame, I don't have any doubts about it's strength. Tubular steel is pretty hardy stuff; it's not at all like spot welded sheet metal, which many mopeds are made from.
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Jul 11, 2012 02:52
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That's one thing I looked for, the steel frame. I originally planned on going with the Genesis 29" that's out there. Just make sure to grease the bearings all over first. But after seeing the frame was aluminum I decided not. Either the clamps would crush the tubes, the engine would vibrate through the frame, or one good bump would fold some part of it. Besides, 29" wheels are harder to find replacements for. The only thing I was worried about is the rear frame tubes being as small as they were. They're much smaller than the Huffy before so even the chain tensioner wouldn't fit. Had to quick fix that, but it's held up just fine over the past three months
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Jul 11, 2012 03:21
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Just make sure you stay on top of it as far as cracks go. Every single motorized bike I have seen locally has some scary poo poo going on. They definitely aren't made with constant higher speeds in mind. 13-14mph is a pretty average cruising speed so when you double that you are putting loads of extra stress on the frame.
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Jul 11, 2012 16:08
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How does increased speed load the frame more than usual? More stress on your bearings and wheels, sure, and I guess somewhat increased cornering forces, but I'd think the biggest problems would just be the vibration from the engine. Particularly if you have an aluminum frame -- seeing a loaded aluminum member reach the end of its fatigue-life is pretty impressive. Steel doesn't fail catastrophically like that.
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Jul 11, 2012 16:11
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Hitting a bump at 30mph is a lot harder on the frame and chassis than hitting one at 15.
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Jul 11, 2012 17:11
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Z3n posted:Hitting a bump at 30mph is a lot harder on the frame and chassis than hitting one at 15. This. And cornering can put a lot of stress/twisting force on it. Steel might not pop into pieces/twist up dramatically like aluminum but repeated stress can break it up nicely.
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Jul 11, 2012 18:22
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OlDirtyBehrmann posted:That is quite a monstrosity. I wouldn't want to do 36 on a schwinn without a motor let alone one that rolls around being shook apart by a small engine. And has bicycle brakes. And wheels that are weak. And a frame that will likely break before too long. I actually bought one of those bikes specifically because they're quite sturdy. Nothing on the frame is butted. Everything has solid welds. The curves on the main triangle provide a stress relief path for the big bumps. The wheels are 36 spoke, it comes with sticky tires. And it comes with v brakes. It stops better than my Peugeot ever did. the only way it could be better suited as a moped would be having a suspension. I worry about the straight tubed bikes, where the only way to relieve loads is twisting of the headstock.  The frame design makes my Pug look like a mistake. Hell it's more stable than the LT2.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:09
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As long as the wields aren't total crap it should be fine. The fork (the one place you don't want to fail - unless you're a dentist) doesn't really see that much more stress placed on it, even at higher speeds, as it's much more lightly loaded than the rear wheel. A catastrophic failure on the rear end means you coast to a stop while the chain and spokes grind on whatever's back there. Even if you lock it up, as long as the front wheel is still spinning, you're good to go. 30mph is the top end for human power on one of those bikes, but it's not a dramatic jump in stress over 20mph cruising speeds regularly seen down gentle slopes. Granted, I wouldn't put 100,000 miles on that bike and then take it cross country, but I'd be relatively confident to put 5,000-7,000 miles on it, which is well past the payback period.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:32
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OlDirtyBehrmann posted:Just make sure you stay on top of it as far as cracks go. Every single motorized bike I have seen locally has some scary poo poo going on. They definitely aren't made with constant higher speeds in mind. 13-14mph is a pretty average cruising speed so when you double that you are putting loads of extra stress on the frame. I'll wager they were mostly cheap *insert mart*-Mart bikes that did such and a lot of novice mistakes. This is kind of a find out as you go type thing. Ditch the rubber "shock" pads, they just allow vibration and pass it on to whatever else it can spread to. Make sure the muffler is attached to the frame, otherwise it's like a tuning fork as you ride. Keep the engine bolts tight. DO NOT drill through the frame like the instructions say you can. Don't build it on a bike with coaster brakes, they can't take the stress. If I had to add anything aftermarket I'd say find some heavy duty bike wheels. Some websites sell heavy duty 12 gauge spoked wheels that mopeds use. Mine have a rim width of 2 inches so the 2.125 tires fit on a bit wider and suck up some of the road shock. The shifter kits out there are fairly worthless, unless you have death on your wish list. It's nice having the extra power and speed, but it puts a lot of load on the rear of the engine case and there are speeds you should absolutely never do on a bike. Plus 200 bucks I really don't see the worth. It also doesn't hurt to put some lead shot (if you don't mind extra weight) or that expanding spray foam in the handlebars, it cuts down on vibration a lot. The pull start add ons are cheap trash. I haven't tried the centrifugal clutch yet, and since you need one of those cheap rear end pull starts, most likely never will. And for the love of God, lights! Light that fucker up. I've got the after market battery charger that hooks up to the engine so I run a few tail lights, brake light and turn signals. The headlight I use a 40 dollar Cree that shines like the wrath of a sun god at night
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Jul 12, 2012 03:36
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motorized bicycles again huh? Ive had one for many years, I opted to use an old bike because they are insanely strong. lately I have been thinking of a few plans for my whizzer. first of all Im tired of seeing it in a schwinn cantilever type frame.  the brakes have also never worked. the original configuration had a drum brake in the front and a coaster brake in the rear.  the chen shing tires were extremely crappy and held horrible traction. with the light engine mods i made to it, i was reaching speeds of 38+ and for something like this bike, completely made in china, that is just very wrong and downright stupid. Over the years ive been pricing out a lot of different options, looking at heavy duty wheels, downhill mountain bike brakes and other components. the nitty gritty of it is that i do not think this frame is safe and it does not allow for any type one option was to contact sportscar pat http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/ who I have talked to for quite some time, back in the days of the "dark" and "light" motorized bicycle forums. he really has his poo poo together and is cranking out some quality stuff. I thought about getting a frame from him, but at the same time, I really want to craft my own with more correct proportions for the whizzer 138. the next step would be to replace this joke of a "transmission"  with http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-new-clutch-kit-fits-Whizzer-motorbikes-/220611270024?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335d74d588 heres how it sits now:  then theres this thing... which hasnt been together in quite sometime.  and... this one is for sale.. 
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Jul 12, 2012 18:13
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As someone who has built this ol' thing way back, I couldn't imagine using a solid front fork. Also the fenders on that blue bike will not hold up to the vibration caused by a 2-stroke engine coupled with high speed bumps/cracks/etc. The tab that bolts to the fork is known to break on those, resulting in broken bones when the front wheel suddenly locks up and you get catapulted onto the pavement face first.  The force of the wheel locking up at speed caused the fork to bend as well. Some guy sued Pacific Cycle for this very reason and won because the jury was as dumb as him. Get something like a stainless steel fender with two support brackets.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:23
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I actually built my own tabs for that courtesy of the hardware store and some angle brackets. I had that issue with my old Huffy while it was still a pedal bike. I've done straight forks on everything, are those springers really that strong? They always look weak and easy to break to me.
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Jul 13, 2012 05:44
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I just replaced the stock exhaust on my Pinto with a techno bullet pipe. The results were instantaneous and awesome. Faster acceleration and 5MPH faster than it went before. But....It starts to sputter and lose speed once i hit 27-28 MPH or so. It doesn't die if I close the throttle and take it back down to about 20, but it will if I keep acellerating. I didn't jet the carb at all with this new pipe, i just left the stock in cuz I'm still not sure exactly what jet to put in. Any ideas what could be causing this? i hope it's something easy, like "just tighten the screws on the pipe more, numbnuts."
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Jul 16, 2012 19:29
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Oh poo poo! It's four stroking. I think I can try to fix that.
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Jul 16, 2012 19:53
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I have a 100% stock Tomos Quadro with oil pump and electric start. I bought it new, it now has about 1700km on it. It is my first moped ever and I love it. I'm trying to figure out how fast it's really going. Dutch moped laws indicate the vehicle should not be faster 45 km/h. At max speed, the guage indicated about 47, then it broke at around 500km; the pointer would move around rapidly and was obviously unreliable. The distance traveled was still accurate, because this is how I knew when to refuel. Apparently this is a common Tomos issue. There was a radar traffic sign nearby that would tell me my current speed, and give a  in approval if my speed was under the limit, and it said my speed was 47. However, these signs are known to have a large margin of error.At 1500 km I got my moped serviced, and I got a free new speed guage because it was still under warranty. It now indicates 48-52 at top speed. I figured this may be the new guage, or because they replaced some other components during the servicing, like the air filter. Or it's a combination of both. I'm trying to figure out how fast the moped really is, because I've been playing around with some GPS smartphone stuff (OpenGPS on Android), and according to that I never go faster than 38. That seems a bit slow, but if I the same GPS tool whilst riding my bicycle, the speeds seem accurate at around 21 km/h Anyone know how accurate Tomos guages are, and how accurate GPS speeds are? If both are inaccurate, I suppose I'll have to hook up an electronic bicycle speed guage. I'm familiar with installing and calibrating those, but I'll have to be creative in installing it on Tomos wheels with different spokes. If the max speed really is 38 km/h, something has to be done, it would also explain why I sometimes get tailgating cars.
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Jul 16, 2012 21:46
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Most onboard gauges read 5-10% over your actual speed, to account for variations in tire diameter and reading errors and such. Showing your speed as higher than you're actually going is acceptable, but nobody wants to get sued because someone lost their license and it turns out the speedometer said they were going just below the license-losing speed. Indicating 47 when you're actually going 38 is nearly 20% over, which is pretty excessive, but I believe it could happen. GPS speedometers are absolutely 100% accurate if you have a good number of satellites locked in and you're going in a straight line at a decent constant speed. Certainly more accurate than any mechanical device unless you spend a lot of time calibrating. Get up to 40km/h indicated on a straight road, hold it there until the GPS stabilizes, and that's your real velocity. e: I use an android app called, appropriately, "GPS Speedometer" and it works very well for these purposes. Nice big numbers and dial so you can read it easily, and you can lock the screen orientation so vibrations don't mess it up.
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Jul 16, 2012 22:28
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Four stroking? Smaller jet most likely. I've honestly never had an engine 4 stroke more with a new pipe on it
SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 04:27
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You will probably seize if you downsize your main jet from stock. Not sure what emissions regs were like when yours was new, but you can bet the stock exhaust and jetting were tuned for maximum fuel efficiency.
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Jul 17, 2012 06:39
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M4rg4r1ne posted:You will probably seize if you downsize your main jet from stock. Not sure what emissions regs were like when yours was new, but you can bet the stock exhaust and jetting were tuned for maximum fuel efficiency. Yes, but if your pipes allow better flow, it sucks more fuel through, you might have to decrease it some. Can always do a plug chop to see
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Jul 17, 2012 16:14
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SocketWrench posted:Yes, but if your pipes allow better flow, it sucks more fuel through, you might have to decrease it some. Can always do a plug chop to see This is not how expansion chambers work. Hope this helps. Jesus christ it's like Moped Army in here.
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Jul 17, 2012 16:20
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ShaneB posted:This is not how expansion chambers work. Hope this helps. Hell it's not how carbs work. Forget the magic that is a tuned pipe. How about something useful? Generally speaking, the more power you're making, the richer the mixture needs to be. Most likely the main jet needs to be bigger.
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Jul 17, 2012 16:59
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Stick Insect posted:I have a 100% stock Tomos Quadro It is my first moped ever and I love it. If you have an android or iphone, download Strava, if you input the weight of the bike and your weight, it will give you not only your speed on a given hill via GPS, but also the watts produced due to elevation map matchup, which you should be able to convert in to horsepower and that sort of thing. It's not super accurate, but it's generally within 0.1mph Hadlock fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 17:13
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OlDirtyBehrmann posted:The main point was that allen wrenches suck but hex head sockets are cool and, yes, ball ends are a great way to break things since you aren't making a good continuous connection with what you are twisting on. Yes all those tools were suggested in hopes that they would be used correctly. I should have been more specific about the Ball headed hex wrenches. I use the T shaped ball head hexes more then any of my other hex wrenches. they have a normal hex on the short end, and the Ball hex on the long end. so use the normal hex to crack it loose then switch to the ball head and just spin it around till it comes out. really helps in tight places like getting to reed blocks with the engine still on the bike. and it makes rebuilding cases super fast. but yes.... Never ever use the ball end on a bolt that is torqued tight. or to torque a bolt. figured that was just common sense. also same with the tire levers. if you know how to use them correctly then you won't puncture a tube. but for Moped tires they are usually only good at making them easier to take off an old tire. you can put them on with your hands if you know what your doing.
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Jul 17, 2012 23:46
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ShaneB posted:This is not how expansion chambers work. Hope this helps. And I had no idea it was an expansion pipe
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Jul 18, 2012 03:28
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SocketWrench posted:And I had no idea it was an expansion pipe Every two-stroke pipe more-or-less acts as an expansion chamber. Stock pipes are usually just "cigar" straight pipes that aren't tuned at all. He said it was a tecno bullet pipe, which is a popular lovely moped expansion chamber pipe. The angled shape of the pipe sends part of the not-100%-used-up exhaust charge coming out of the exhaust port back into the cylinder to be part of the next gas-air mixture that goes boom.
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Jul 18, 2012 16:35
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ShaneB posted:He said it was a tecno bullet pipe, which is a popular lovely moped expansion chamber pipe. Oh hey now. I'm not made of cash. It was reasonably priced. What do you suggest super cool guy?
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Jul 20, 2012 11:05
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Tall Tale Teller posted:Oh hey now. I'm not made of cash. It was reasonably priced. As a super cool guy, I'll go ahead and respond. For all around goodness https://www.treatland.tv/puch-DMP-carbon-baffle-estoril-pipe-p/puch-dmp-pipe-green.htm For crazy top end but no low end https://www.treatland.tv/puch-simonini-aluminum-silencer-performance-pipe-p/puch-simonini-pipe-alu.htm For crazy awesome everything (and to celebrate your new job that lets you afford moped parts)https://www.treatland.tv/puch-motomatic-destroyer-p/motomatic-maxi-black.htm
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Jul 20, 2012 13:38
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Estoril for life for anything budget. The destroyer is also an amazing chamber. I also really like the tecno CIRCUIT pipe, which has a slightly higher top end than the estoril (without modding it), but is incredibly loud and shoddily constructed.
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Jul 20, 2012 16:58
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Yeah what Shane said. The Estoril pipe is awesome. usually you will loose petal clearance with an Estoril. at least with a Puch you will. but its a great in-between pipe. Enough low end that it will get you moving. and really great high end. the Circuit pipe is also an awesome choice. you will get a decent gain on a Stock Puch. and on a Tomos they are awesome Low end pipes. but they always break in the same places. there is a weld at the expansion chamber that always breaks. and the baffle always gets loose. and the packing goes bad fast. and yes they are loud cause they are thin. but they are cheap, and they rock for a mild build.
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Jul 22, 2012 22:26
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I finally fixed my centerstand to accommodate my Destroyer and this pipe ROCKS. I cut off the bar above the middle support and took about 3/8" out of the middle support bar and then the center support got welded back together and a piece of straight pipe replaced the upper curved bit. Now the centerstand fully articulates. Why didn't MMM make the pipe fit around the centerstand? Who knows. I hit 53 on a slight uphill last night where I would have topped out at 48 or so on my derestricted estoril.
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Jul 26, 2012 15:24
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So I am seeking a factory petcock for a Indian moped. Anyone have a line on one?
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Jul 26, 2012 15:26
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 20:48 |
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It's a bit too far from me, but if anyone is near AtM/Bryan a dude is selling an old PA50 that looks to be in restorable condition. http://collegestation.craigslist.org/mcy/3133054577.html 
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Jul 28, 2012 19:12
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