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I prefer the grittier style in general, but in that particular example the wash brings the two colours too close. The brighter one is better.
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Jul 16, 2012 23:20
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The brighter.
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Jul 16, 2012 23:37
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All about the brighter tones here. I like the added depth of the gritty one, but the bright colors are just nicer to look at.
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Jul 17, 2012 00:42
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Lethemonster posted:I have one ordered. I hoped my little painting mask would do me until it arrived but alas, I have a very stupid blue outline on my face. Your PSI might be a little too high and/or you are spraying in an area that is not very well ventilated if you're getting face-rings. At bare minimum, it's best to open a window, get a good cross-breeze straight outside from a fan or something, then spray right there. Better, if you can, spray outside in the garage (I believe it's called a carport in England) with the door open. Best, if you can either get a hold of or build a spray booth setup of some kind, go that route. In any option, always wear a good quality mask that is specifically rated for "Painters Use" or "Paint Grade." Be it the traditional filter mask or the full-on respirator, make absolutely sure it's meant to deal with paint and not dust.
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Jul 17, 2012 02:30
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I paint without a mask, it's going to give me cancer. That or the smoking.
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Jul 17, 2012 04:14
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Manifest posted:I paint without a mask, it's going to give me cancer. Real men spray indoors with no safety equipment. Lol just lol if you dont sneeze the colour of your tanks.
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Jul 17, 2012 06:33
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Mine says its for Organic Vapor. Should I get one specifically for painting instead? I also use it while sanding/filing my resin.
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Jul 17, 2012 06:57
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GET A MASK Theyre inexpensive from hardware stores. Because seriously, how much do you value your lungs? Less than a Leman Russ kit? I thought not. 
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Jul 17, 2012 14:04
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Got my package in the mail. Trying out the J.A.G. FIMO mix. It's 60% FIMO soft(dolphin grey), 30% FIMO classic(leaf green) and 10% FIMO quick mix. I rationed it by weight, I hope that was correct. Results seem encouraging. A lot of rolling back and redoing things, pushing and prodding, getting the hang of it. It's supposed to settle a bit in a few more hours and I'll see how it behaves then.  
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Jul 17, 2012 15:22
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Hellbeard - Finally took the time to read through all of your older posts before I started reading the thread, great stuff dude! I want to make a few small things and learn how to cast in resin along the way. It'll take me some time but I love watching how a lot of your figures and sculpts got their start.
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Jul 17, 2012 16:18
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krushgroove posted:Hellbeard - Finally took the time to read through all of your older posts before I started reading the thread, great stuff dude! I want to make a few small things and learn how to cast in resin along the way. It'll take me some time but I love watching how a lot of your figures and sculpts got their start. Thanks a lot! Make note about the technical aspects of casting in resin. If you want to do miniatures you need some expensive equipment- a pressure chamber, a vacuum chamber, a compressor and a vacuum machine (?). Not to mention the cost of the materials themselves. It'll also take a while to get the technical experience to do it properly. If you want to do some simple "home made" casts you might- fill in the air bubbles with a sculpting medium, work on larger scale open faced molds (single piece). Or maybe just try again and again and again until you get one acceptable result. Use some talc powder before on the surface of your mold- it'll give the air nucleation sites so there will be less bubbles on the surface. There are some casting services though that you might be able to use if you want to make more than a few. Good luck and post your work so we can see it.
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Jul 17, 2012 16:56
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Kommando posted:GET Depends on whether or not if you live in Australia. And the quality of your health insurance.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:04
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I was spraying a predator that I got off ebay in the glue-monsters chaos army. I had masked a couple of bits off and was spraying the treads black. Then I turn it over and see the paint has gone straight through the model and leaked out the top from some unseen unglued bits! My beautiful blue tank 
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Jul 17, 2012 17:09
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Bavius posted:Mine says its for Organic Vapor. Should I get one specifically for painting instead? I also use it while sanding/filing my resin. Organic Vapor is for garbage disposal and other things that have bad fumes (such as rotting roadkill, dealing with corpses, organic wastes, etc.). You need one specific to painting, as the filters themselves are all different depending on your needs.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:16
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I use this model. Mine looks a bit different since it's older, but it uses the same particle and vapor filters. Works like a goddamn charm even with the super stinky stuff like Dullcote. The name of it suggests it's for organic vapors, but I found it in the painting section of a Home Depot, and usage for painting is mentioned in the description on Amazon. Super awesome and cheap.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:28
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I'm a pretty slow painter and I've never really tried wet blending before, but when it looked pretty good on a test model I decided to paint an entire cavalry unit's armour using that technique. And the horse's armour too.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:31
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So I am not that good at painting and I am having a problem of brush strokes not leaving enough paint. The chaos black undercoat shows up all the time. I generally have to repaint the area two or three times to get the black to not be so obvious and then it turns into too much paint. What am I doing wrong? Using GW paints and a size 2 rounded brush.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:48
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Flipswitch posted:To be honest mate, if it looks fine from TT/Arm length then it isn't an issue. If you strip her you'll do my cycle which is not being happy with a miniature over something minor and stripping it and thus never having a painted army. You can always come back to her. Thanks dude. I fixed up the worst issue with her face so she no longer looks like she has a black eye and I'm leaving it for now. I may lose a lot of games, but I have way more of my models painted than the other guy!
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Jul 17, 2012 18:14
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks a lot! Thanks - I saw one of your earlier posts about talc powder, a friend of mine at work used to to casting to make custom painted toys, etc., and he said the same thing. I'm planning to start small, with things like skulls and stuff like that that can be done with a one-piece, then hopefully get to where I can reliably do two-piece molds. The first step is getting used to working with Green Stuff to make things, I've never tried sculpting stuff before! I'd like to make some bases and simple one-piece molds, etc., but there's already so many great ones it would be hard to stand out - I might still give it a try though. Did you ever paint your Zoidberg or The Dude models?
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Jul 17, 2012 18:25
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BadLlama posted:So I am not that good at painting and I am having a problem of brush strokes not leaving enough paint. The chaos black undercoat shows up all the time. I generally have to repaint the area two or three times to get the black to not be so obvious and then it turns into too much paint. What am I doing wrong? Using GW paints and a size 2 rounded brush. Black is a very hard paint to cover with certain other colours. Notably reds, yellows and whites are nearly impossible to paint over black. For some colours you have to go through a progression, eg to paint from black to yellow it can be much easier to put some progressively lighter layers of brown down. What colour are you trying to paint up to, and how thin is your paint? A couple of layers is normal to get a nice smooth basecoat. How now brown cow.
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Jul 17, 2012 18:52
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Fyrbrand posted:I use this model. Mine looks a bit different since it's older, but it uses the same particle and vapor filters. Works like a goddamn charm even with the super stinky stuff like Dullcote. The name of it suggests it's for organic vapors, but I found it in the painting section of a Home Depot, and usage for painting is mentioned in the description on Amazon. Super awesome and cheap. I have a 3M model 4251. I bought it "blind" without understanding the various differences. Someone please tell me i'm not going to have green lungs for the rest of my life if i use this mask!
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Jul 17, 2012 18:56
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Lethemonster posted:Black is a very hard paint to cover with certain other colours. Notably reds, yellows and whites are nearly impossible to paint over black. For some colours you have to go through a progression, eg to paint from black to yellow it can be much easier to put some progressively lighter layers of brown down. Trying to put down a yellow color. So your saying I should put a layer of brown first then go to yellow?
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Jul 17, 2012 19:05
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BadLlama posted:Trying to put down a yellow color. So your saying I should put a layer of brown first then go to yellow? Averland Sunset, or if you have the older paints, Iyanden Darksun. Those will make it a lot easier. Working up from black through brown and tan and then yellow would also work, as would priming white or grey instead of black.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:07
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Ye Worse User-name posted:I agree that some of the Vallejo flesh tones are alarming. I haven't seen the Game Colour ones but the Model Colour ones are a little strange too. I'll give you this link that someone sent me to when I was trying to get a better flesh tone. I can't say that I am getting these techniques right but I do think the results are better than I had been getting previously. Thanks for the response, I had actually seen that link before, but it still doesn't show how to use the stranger fleshtones. Elf Skin, Dwarf Skin, and Bronze Fleshtone seem essentially worthless due to their yellowness, and mimicking that linked style of painting leaves me using several different browns, Tan, and Pale Flesh only. That's not necessarily a problem or anything, it just seems like there has to be a reason these paints were created.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:40
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Signal posted:Thanks for the response, They were created to be copies of GW elf flesh, dwarf flesh, and bronzed flesh, which themselves were cartoony fantasy skin tones and were too pink, too red, and too orange, respectively, to be realistic. It's just a different style, more old school and colorful and less photorealistic.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:46
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Lungboy posted:I have a 3M model 4251. I bought it "blind" without understanding the various differences. Someone please tell me i'm not going to have green lungs for the rest of my life if i use this mask! Looks like it should work. Though if you start coughing or sneezing in strange colors, consider a different model. True story, Snot Green doesn't look nearly so natural when you cough it up for a week after airbrushing a shitload of basecoats with it. That's when I went and got the mask I now have. Protect your respiratory system, kids.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:47
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krushgroove posted:Thanks - I saw one of your earlier posts about talc powder, a friend of mine at work used to to casting to make custom painted toys, etc., and he said the same thing. No, I haven't painted any. It's been a long while since I last painted a model and I don't have appropriate colors and I couldn't make a decent cast so they're sitting on the shelf; guarding my books. I did try to paint one of the busts with some oils that I have but so far it doesn't look so great  .
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Jul 17, 2012 19:49
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Dominion posted:Working up from black through brown and tan and then yellow would also work, as would priming white or grey instead of black. Oh okay thank you very much for the tips. And awesome I pretty much just primed my entire guard Army black  Does anyone have any suggestions for a cheap model WW2 kit whos turret could pass for a Chimera turret?
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Jul 17, 2012 19:56
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Fyrbrand posted:Looks like it should work. Though if you start coughing or sneezing in strange colors, consider a different model. Will do, and thanks. Dominion posted:They were created to be copies of GW elf flesh, dwarf flesh, and bronzed flesh, which themselves were cartoony fantasy skin tones and were too pink, too red, and too orange, respectively, to be realistic. It's just a different style, more old school and colorful and less photorealistic. The original Bronzed Flesh was perfect, gently caress knows why they altered it.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:56
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Dominion posted:They were created to be copies of GW elf flesh, dwarf flesh, and bronzed flesh, which themselves were cartoony fantasy skin tones and were too pink, too red, and too orange, respectively, to be realistic. It's just a different style, more old school and colorful and less photorealistic. Oh, okay. Is there any use to them when painting more realistic tones, or should I just move them out of my case to make room for different options?
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Jul 17, 2012 19:59
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Lungboy posted:Will do, and thanks. Bronzed flesh is poo poo as a flesh tone but is the perfect color for highlighting blood red.
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Jul 17, 2012 19:59
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Signal posted:Oh, okay. Is there any use to them when painting more realistic tones, or should I just move them out of my case to make room for different options? They're fine colors, just not great for skin. Just because it says flesh on the pot doesn't mean you can't use them for whatever. But as flesh tones go, I prefer the Reaper skin triads. The new GW Rakarth Flesh is good for sallow evil people skin, and Vallejo Heavy Warmgrey is a good skin base too.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:02
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I use those flesh tones all the time. If you aren't painting like its 1995, you aren't doing it properly.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:09
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The original Bronzed Flesh was perfect as a skintone, but i don't have the newer version to try as a red highlight. I use blazing orange and then wash with Baal.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:11
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So I made a thing. Here's a link to the photoblog of the project. http://s1071.photobucket.com/albums/u508/Selnaric/Solo%20Drakban/
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Jul 17, 2012 20:11
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^^^^ That is amazing.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:31
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So I haven't even finished painting a model and paint is starting to wear off to the primer (or plastic, not sure the shades of grey are veey similar) at certain extremities. What did I do wrong/am doing wrong? Edit: now that I think about it it could be where the primer didn't reach. Would I be able to fix this with careful application of Imperial Primer?
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Jul 17, 2012 20:36
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Sounds like you're handling the model itself after you put paint on it. I'd recommend not doing that. Either hold it by the base, if it's already based, or mount the miniature to something. I use wine corks, personally.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:47
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ijyt posted:So I haven't even finished painting a model and paint is starting to wear off to the primer (or plastic, not sure the shades of grey are veey similar) at certain extremities. Sounds like 2 different things going on here. If paint is wearing on the extremities, it's being rubbed off. As Signal said, try to hold it by the base or blue-tac it to a paint pot or something. It is also the norm for a sprayed model to not have primer everywhere, and touching it up with paint is necessary in the deeper recesses. It's the first step i always take after spraying.
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Jul 17, 2012 20:50
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If Imperial Primer is the brush on one, then that is probably the problem. Brush on primers are not nearly as good as a spray on ones. That said, I've always had problems with white primers allowing colours to rub off while painting. One solution is to get your basecoat done and then apply a matt varnish, then just carry on painting once that has dried. Also consider using blu-tac or similar to stick your men to an old paint pot or something, so that you aren't touching them as you paint. Edit: gently caress the pair of you. 
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Jul 17, 2012 20:53
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