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So I am looking to invest in at least 3 brushes from http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-series-7-kolinsky-sable-miniature-brushes/ Can someone help me pick which 3-4 would be best for Warhams painting? I currently have some cheap brushes but want to get some nice ones. NM just going to follow op and get the 2,1,0, 0/3 size. BadLlama fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 21:00
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Ah thanks guys. Blu-tac it is. I'd varnish it too if humidity wasn't +90% at the moment. RJS, I was suggesting the Imperial Primer as a fix, I actually used Halfords Grey Primer.
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Jul 17, 2012 21:13
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selnaric posted:So I made a thing. Awesome! I love it. Edit: OOOH it's got lights too. That's dope. PLZ take a better pic of what it looks like with the lights. Hellbeard fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 21:16
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Holy poo poo, I didn't see the lights. That's absolutely astounding.
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Jul 17, 2012 21:26
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Would it be possible to stick the images up on Flickr or Imgur, Photobucket is a steaming sluggish POS and it takes 10 seconds to load each image even on FIOS.
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Jul 17, 2012 21:28
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Hellbeard posted:Awesome! I love it. Seconding this, I started off thinking 'oh wow, good for this guy doing such a great job DIYing an overpriced model' and then the fiberoptics showed up and I was like 'oh gently caress yes'. @Selnaric I'm curious, regarding 2 things; - On your choice of sculpting techniques/materials for the prow. You made a frame and then filled it with putty, sanded it (apparently?) and then put more framing pieces over it. But you gave up on the card as framing for the eagle's wings. Was this because of the curvature? And how did you make sure the curvature was the same on both sides--eyeballing as you sanded or did you have a mold or a frame cut out you used like a real ship builder would? Why modeling material--considering the hassle of getting the mush to be symmetric vs heat treating a small piece of card over a form? - On the paint job--is there no wash? It feels like there's no wash, and I feel like it robs the detail of feeling large scale. Did you skip the wash on purpose or is it coming later, or what? TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 21:46
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Babe Magnet posted:Depends on whether or not if you live in Australia. And the quality of your health insurance. Yes and top cover Hospital + Extras...? Your point? Prevention > Cure
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Jul 17, 2012 22:52
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Kommando posted:Yes and top cover Hospital + Extras...? That was what some people like to call a joke.
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Jul 17, 2012 22:55
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Its hard to tell considering how bad the American healthcare system has been of late. It may be a real genuine concern for fellow goons who live on noodles to support their Warhams habit, oh the irony of dying from a respiratory disorder from inhaling solvents rather than malnutrition and vitamin D deficiency. It was the miniatures that got him in the end.
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Jul 17, 2012 23:02
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Hey, I need to ask a non breathing airbrush question: What ratio of paint to thinner do you all reccomend? I have the Tamiya X-20A thinner and will be using P3 Frostbite.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:04
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Feeple posted:Hey, I need to ask a non breathing airbrush question: Well with windex I go about forty percent windex, sixty percent paint. Im not sure how real thinner will go over though.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:15
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I do it by eye now, more often than not. But that's probably because I use Citadel paints and using a pipette feels like wasting paint.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:34
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Feeple posted:Hey, I need to ask a non breathing airbrush question: I go 50/50 windex and water mixed about 60:40 with p3 paints. If it's too thin add a tiny bit of paint, but I prefer a couple of thin coats. Also, when did Testors change the label on their dullcote? My lady picked some up for me today and at first I thought she'd gotten the wrong thing.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:40
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I'm not planning to paint any white models, but I have to ask: why prime in black if you're going to paint something white? Why not prime it in white? I see this all the time and I don't know why anyone would prime *everything* in black.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:49
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Black's more grimdark.
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Jul 18, 2012 01:33
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krushgroove posted:I'm not planning to paint any white models, but I have to ask: why prime in black if you're going to paint something white? Why not prime it in white? I see this all the time and I don't know why anyone would prime *everything* in black. I prime white all the time. And grey, and black, and zenithal.
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Jul 18, 2012 01:35
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A rather feeble first time painter WIP I followed the noob guide to do this but apparently not well enough I'm thinking I need a smaller brush and more even strokes for dry brushing. Though I'm tempting to black it again and start with a new paint scheme. I'm not really happy with it, not as clean as I would have liked. I think I need more layers of the layers and thinner dry brushing. Help would be greatly appreciated pr0digal fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jul 18, 2012 |
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Jul 18, 2012 01:46
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 someone buy and paint this, tia. Dude has a whole category for sexy naked lady figs. Nerds. 
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Jul 18, 2012 01:54
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I hate to interrupt airbrushchat, but I'm thinking my Menites would look particularly cool with some kind of desert-themed bases, but some cursory Google searching didn't really give me what I was looking for. If anyone has run across a decent tutorial or something, it would be appreciated.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:02
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Pierzak posted:Black's more grimdark. ...but, but...the frustration of painting bright colors over it... Manifest posted:I prime white all the time. At the moment I'm just using cheap grey primer, but once I get started properly I'll get the Army Painter colored primers, skipping a step is just too enticing to pass up.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:13
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krushgroove posted:...but, but...the frustration of painting bright colors over it... Don't do it! It never looks as good to prime and basecoat with one spray.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:16
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krushgroove posted:I'm not planning to paint any white models, but I have to ask: why prime in black if you're going to paint something white? Why not prime it in white? I see this all the time and I don't know why anyone would prime *everything* in black. If you are going to paint something entirely or mostly white there really isn't a point in priming black. But if you are only going to paint parts of it white, it can still make sense. I prime a lot of stuff black even if it ends up in lighter shades because: 1) when I am doing tabletop stuff I am a lazy loving dude and a black undercoat is worth it for when I miss some nook or detail; 2) I generally prefer the more muted tones that you get over a dark undercoat compared to white, even for lighter shades. Alternatively, maybe people are too lazy and didn't want to buy additional primer for a couple models?
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Jul 18, 2012 02:16
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Yeah I guess the 'missing a part of the model' thing is an advantage - I was suprised how many little bits I missed just doing the basecoats on my Genestealers, and I had to go back and touch them up. I thought for some folks it has to do with not wanting to get additional colors of primer. Manifest posted:Don't do it! It never looks as good to prime and basecoat with one spray. Thanks for that, it was a question I was going to ask at some point anyway!
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Jul 18, 2012 02:23
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Manifest posted:Don't do it! It never looks as good to prime and basecoat with one spray.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:56
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Withe the new random assault distance and snap fire rules, if you come up short in an assault do you still move? Say I need 9 inches to assault but roll 4. Do I still move the 4 and get shot at? Or do my guys just sit tight? EDIT - wrong thread, ha, ha. CyberLord XP fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Jul 18, 2012 |
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Jul 18, 2012 02:58
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CyberLord XP posted:Withe the new random assault distance and snap fire rules, if you come up short in an assault do you still move? W&N brushes are always able to get into assault but dollar store brushes don't move AND must take hits from Overwatch.
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Jul 18, 2012 03:10
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ghetto wormhole posted:W&N brushes are always able to get into assault but dollar store brushes don't move AND must take hits from Overwatch.  E: someone recommend a mask - going out to get a new one.
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Jul 18, 2012 03:31
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Baldrash posted:I hate to interrupt airbrushchat, but I'm thinking my Menites would look particularly cool with some kind of desert-themed bases, but some cursory Google searching didn't really give me what I was looking for. Really depends on what kind of desert you are going for. Rocky, sandy, scrub?
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Jul 18, 2012 03:33
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Update on Hive Fleet What A Terrible Color Scheme After getting it mostly painted and realizing how drab (and terribly painted) it looks I'm going to dunk this little guy into simple green for a day, scrub it all off, re-black and go with a different scheme and hopefully steadier hands You guys make this look easy
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Jul 18, 2012 04:00
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Did you buy any shade or wash paints? They'll help you get through those little guys. Are you using any guide, do you know what color scheme you want to accomplish?
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Jul 18, 2012 04:05
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Bavius posted:Did you buy any shade or wash paints? They'll help you get through those little guys. Are you using any guide, do you know what color scheme you want to accomplish? Yup, I've got the GW washes and shades but I guess I did them in the wrong order. I was following the paint guides on their website for the order and the third post in this thread for a guide and it didn't turn out as planned. I'm tempted to pick up the How To Paint Miniatures book. Originally I wanted a darker color scheme but it looks too drab, doesn't work for Tyranids. I'm thinking now of going red for the carapace, that weird pinkish color being used for the carapace now for the body and I have no idea anymore for the muscles and such. I've got this guy and the genestealer I started soaking in simple green right now. Why oh why do I play the race with nooks and crannies The three paint sets below are what I have  Originally for the muscles and such, now for carapace  Original carapace, now for body  I don't know what the gently caress pr0digal fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jul 18, 2012 |
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Jul 18, 2012 04:13
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^^^^^ I would suggest something easier to start for nids. The basic color scheme GW always like to show off is on several guides and looks well. The yellowish skin tone with a red carapace. Just cover the skin in white and completely wash it with a Sephia I believe than Mephiston red on the carapace and maybe just a quick wash if you aren't ready for highlights yet. You don't want to be putting all your detail into gaunts or you will go insane. Especially for just starting out, take it slow and easy. Work up to highlights once you've figured out how to base coat and wash well enough. Edit >> Hell, here's most of the guide: 
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Jul 18, 2012 04:33
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For what its worth, I think we are starting Tyranids at the same time and I have like the inverted colour scheme of you. I did Mephiston Red for the skin, and Abaddon Black for the shell. Doing a wash of nuln oil over the basecoat made my guys go from 'kinda crappy' to 'hell yes I can almost play this isn't so bad'. The wash is like, liquid talent. Definitely not as noticable over the black shell on my guys, so I'm doing the highlights before the wash. But with the skin I did base then wash, and plan to try highlighting on my HQ units and not bothering with the rank-and-file terms/genes/horms.
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Jul 18, 2012 04:35
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Khorne Flakes posted:^^^^^ So I went from 0 to OH poo poo COMPLICATED way too quick I shall take your advice and start simple and sexart no poo poo? We're gonna have inverted 'nids cause I'm going Mephiston Red for the shell and probably that Uruk-Hai base for the skin. I doubt I'll have these guys painted for the game I'm playing thursday but I want to start. Thanks again, I'll post another picture when I do a more simplistic color scheme
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Jul 18, 2012 04:46
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Yup. http://imgur.com/a/aVLsA Mephiston Red with a Nuln Oil wash, along with Uskabi(?) Bone for the teeth/claws/hooves, and a brown with orange highlight for the guns. Genestealers have yet to be washed. For the shell I am probably going to either draw highlight lines or do a drybrush over the whole of the shell in two grey layers.
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Jul 18, 2012 05:59
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pr0digal posted:Update on Hive Fleet What A Terrible Color Scheme Save that photo and re-visit in a year. You will be amazed. As for steady hands, I paint with both elbows on my desk and the mini held at eye level. I hold my brush about halfway up, and have side of the hand holding the brush touching the hand holding the mini. I'm sure the talented painters can give better advice.
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Jul 18, 2012 06:24
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The color scheme itself is pretty good. Just keep at it.
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Jul 18, 2012 06:40
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:@Selnaric For the eagle's wings I didn't think I could do a good job bending plasticard around the shape. I think I did some measuring for the prow when I started but near the end I mostly just eyeballed the shape. I decided to fill in the frame with putty and sand it because I was just going to make one. If I was going to make more than one heat treating a piece over a form would be a great idea. I'll have to remember that. On the paint job, from the very beginning I was intending this to be like a ship model in the captain's quarters. So I was going for a more clean look. Also, I just wanted to be done with project. I've been working on it off and on for 2 and a half years and with being involved with the oath thread I just needed to have this off my table. I don't know. I might go back later and add more painting detail. Edit: I'll try and get some better pics of the lighting. If anyone has any suggestions for this I'd love the advise. selnaric fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jul 18, 2012 |
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Jul 18, 2012 06:50
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I just read indolent bastard's instantmold megapost (you are an absolute hero), and I'm about to start casting a few heads for an all Druze infinity force. I'm going to try and make a two part mold and try and press the heads with a liquid resin. Has anyone had success using the two part process to get finicky details?
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Jul 18, 2012 07:14
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I'm thinking about getting into this oil washing stuff and I was wondering if there was an oil colour close to the old Citadel Shadow Grey, or the current The Fang ? I'm guessing not, and that I would have to mix it myself, so any ideas on which oils would be best to start with ?
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Jul 18, 2012 07:20
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