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What's a good way of joining two small sheets of plastic? I remember (I think) from when I was young that Warhammer glue seemed to melt two bits of plastic together, is there a better (cheaper) (less embarrassing) glue or whatever that does this? Or any other method?
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Jul 14, 2012 02:11
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| # ? May 9, 2024 09:51 |
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ante posted:What's a good way of joining two small sheets of plastic? That kind of depends on what type of plastic it is. "Warhammer Glue" works on polystyrene or ABS plastics. If it is too far below your dignity to go to the Warhammer store to get some, you could go to a regular hobby store or the toy section of a larger retail store and look for Testor's Model Cement. As far as I know, it is pretty much the same stuff. It only costs about $3-4 a tube, so you aren't going to get much cheaper than that. If it is PVC, then you'll want PVC cement. You can get it at any hardware store and it is also very cheap. For acrylic/plexiglass, you're going to need acrylic cement. I've never used it and don't know how much it costs, but I'd assume you could also get that at a hardware store. If it is something like UHMW Polyethylene or PTFE (Teflon), I don't know what the hell you're going to do. Maybe some 3M High Strength 90 would work, but that stuff goes for about $15 a can.
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Jul 14, 2012 05:35
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Thanks. I have no idea what kind of plastic it is, I just grabbed a bunch of offcuts from work. Probably ABS.
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Jul 14, 2012 06:02
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Putting out a feeler to see if this is something I can consider doing myself or if I should hire out the job. I noticed a mark on my hardwood kitchen floor a few months ago. Last night, curiosity got the better of me and I poked the mark to find that it it was, in fact, a rotten spot. A few bugs crawled out and I quickly gave them a face full of Raid and covered the hole. Today, I went into the crawlspace and pulled down the insulation to find an area of water-damaged, rotted subflooring under the spot. It's about the size of my palm and adjacent to the exterior kitchen door. Inspection of the kitchen door shows water damage and rotting at the frame/threshold. At this point, I'm pretty sure I need to replace part or all of the exterior door frame, the rotten subflooring, any affecting framing, and the hardwood floor piece if I can find a match. My level of expertise is "I know how to use a hammer and math." he;lp
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Jul 14, 2012 20:05
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I am looking at getting a small chest freezer for Costco runs and the like. I found a 7 cubic foot model that I like for $200, and I am reading the electrical specs, and between that and googling a few things, I know just enough to be dangerous, so I would like to confirm. The unit is rated at 277 kWh/year, and I checked a few other items, and converting everything to kWh/hour (since an oven won't run 24/7/365, etc), I get the following Oven: 3 kWh/hr Microwave: .75 kWh/hr Television: .3kWh/hr Fridge: ~.15kWh/hr Chest freezer: .031 kWh/hr It seems to draw very little power, something around 1/5th the power of a full fridge. I had anticipated needing to place it on its own possibly beefed up circuit, but can I instead simply plug it into the most convenient yet perfectly ordinary outlet that I find in the garage?
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Jul 14, 2012 21:28
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:It seems to draw very little power, something around 1/5th the power of a full fridge. I had anticipated needing to place it on its own possibly beefed up circuit, but can I instead simply plug it into the most convenient yet perfectly ordinary outlet that I find in the garage?
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Jul 14, 2012 21:37
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I am planning on building a walk-in closet in my master bedroom. I am worried that the area between the closet wall and the hallway door would be too tight, any thoughts? And I am not sure what door location is best, any suggestions there? 
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Jul 15, 2012 01:41
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Can you have the hall door swing the other way?
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Jul 15, 2012 01:53
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grover posted:What matters here is not the annual power consumption, but peak current. Sufficed to say, if it has a normal 15V plug on it and a UL stamp of approval on it, it's safe to plug into any ordinary outlet. Most modern refrigerators and freezers draw very little peak current and are safe to share a receptacle circuit with lots of other normal appliances. Do bear in mind that your garage is probably GFCI protected, and a nuisance trip might go unnoticed long enough for everything in the freezer to spoil. If you've never had a nuisance trip, I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't go plugging extension cords into your garage outlets and then leave them in the rain or anything like that.
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Jul 15, 2012 01:53
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grover posted:Can you have the hall door swing the other way? I could if I needed to. Another option might be to push back the diagonal wall away from the bathroom and hallway, but that would make the closet smaller.
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Jul 15, 2012 02:56
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willkill4food posted:I could if I needed to.
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Jul 15, 2012 02:58
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Starting our nusery and decided to rip up the old carpet and go hardwood w/ area rug. Pulled up that carpet in the 10x10 room to discover that over the years, none of the previous owners thought to cover the floor when they paint. I'd say a good 1/2 of the real estate is covered in old paint splotches and smears. Various colors, and from my tests, seems to be both latex and oil based paint. We really don't have the time, inclination or money to properly sand and refinish the entire thing at this time or hire it out. My google fu seems to show we should be able to at least get the paint up with various chemicals, scraping, and elbow grease. The question is, what am I to do when instead of paint spots, I've got scraped up finish spots? Is it at all feasible to sand, by hand, only the scraped up parts and then use a brush and some finish on only those spots? We're really just looking to get by until the kid is old enough to start crawling and toddling around; we then want to throw some carpet in there. Money is a concern or we'd re-carpet now. Doesn't matter if the floor doesn't look wonderful. I just don't want damage the boards somehow by spot "sort of" finishing.
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Jul 15, 2012 04:33
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Wondering if my issue is just a simple case of being low on refrigerant. Lately, my home A/C has been struggling to keep the house at 72 during the hottest part of the days. It stays running at about 74/75. Im noticing a lot of condensation drainage and I stuck my iPhone into the air handler and snapped a few pictures. There is very slight and uneven ice formation on a few places in a straight line down through the coil system in roughly the same place on each coil. Now at night after the sun goes down, I have no problems keeping the house at 72 and if on a whim can run it much colder down to 68. Would this likely simply be needing a recharge of the system? I do not believe I have any leaks. The system was repaired 2 years ago as vibration did dig a hole when some of the small copper tubing ended up vibrating against each other. That is not the case now, the tubing is properly separated and if a leak was really there would have let the refrigerant escape weeks ago. Im wondering if the repair (done by a retired HVAC guy who was a cousin of my father in law) may have been done with just a bit too little refrigerant back then?
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Jul 15, 2012 16:54
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Why can't you just paint over it? Failing that, I don't see any reason why a nursery can't just have crazy mixed up splotchy floor.
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Jul 15, 2012 17:45
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MrBigglesworth posted:Wondering if my issue is just a simple case of being low on refrigerant. It sounds like your system is low on charge. Or your outdoor condenser is dirty. An air conditioning coil should never run so cold as to form ice. If you're forming ice on the coil your suction pressure is too low. This is usually a result of low charge. You could also have a leak. Factory / field braze joints do occasionally fail if not done 100% perfectly and coils can corrode. PromethiumX fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jul 15, 2012 |
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Jul 15, 2012 23:14
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Ice was not on the outside unit, just very small amounts on the air handler coils up in the attic. I keep the filters changed pretty regular and have been cleaning the outside coils about monthly with a spray hose. My father in law has a manifold set he can bring out to check pressures.
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Jul 16, 2012 00:52
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I live in Albuquerque. Dry and hot. 1600 sq/ft house with cathedral ceilings. House built in 1997 so it has decent insulation. Air vents are in the ceiling, not the floor. I have a roof mounted mastercool swamp cooler rated for 1600sq/ft. It keeps my house about 15-17 degrees cooler than the outside temp but that is with it running all day on high. I put new evaporative elements in at the beginning of the summer along with an inline filter to keep them cleaner. I keep a couple windows cracked to help with flow. Also, I did check the motor to make sure it has the correct hp for the 1600sq ft. I know the cooler is probably doing the best it can for the circumstances but any advice on how to maybe get a couple more degrees of cool into my house? Brice fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 16:17
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MrBigglesworth posted:Ice was not on the outside unit, just very small amounts on the air handler coils up in the attic. I keep the filters changed pretty regular and have been cleaning the outside coils about monthly with a spray hose. My father in law has a manifold set he can bring out to check pressures. I realize ice was not on the outside unit. You should not have ice on the coil in your air handler unless the suction pressure is low enough to cause the coil to be below 32F. You could get ahold of a manifold set and check the pressures if you like. You should be looking for a pressure that equates to a 36 to 40 degree evaporating temperature. Your new unit is charged with 410a refrigerant which you will need 410a gauges to read properly as it runs at MUCH higher pressures than R-22 (which is what the manifold of your uncles probably is.) However, even if you do find the unit low on charge you can't do a drat thing about it unless you possess a CFC License as no one will sell you refrigerant. If you are low on refrigerant you should also check for leaks with a halogen leak detector. Which you probably don't have. You should call a qualified person to look at your unit. And as a general rule: If the company you are dealing with advertises Plumbing and Heating on their trucks then stay the gently caress away. Call the guy who advertises REFRIGERATION because you have a lot better chance that they know what is going on. Brice posted:I live in Albuquerque. Dry and hot. 1600 sq/ft house with cathedral ceilings. House built in 1997 so it has decent insulation. Air vents are in the ceiling, not the floor. You've got all you're going to get out of your swamp cooler. The only way you'll get any cooler than that is to install a vapor compression unit (think straight A/C or heat pump).
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Jul 17, 2012 21:56
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Or he could work on limiting the amount of heat going into the house to start with - wall & roof color will affect heat absorption, shade from trees is good though not quick to grow, if a window is in direct sunlight a reflective shade/blind will keep a lot of heat out.
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Jul 17, 2012 22:10
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I keep the curtains closed on which ever side of the house the sun is on. They are fairly thick fabric curtains. My Finances dad does window tinting. Anyone have experience with the efficacy of heat reflective window tints?
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Jul 17, 2012 23:28
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My smoke alarm went off suddenly and will not stop. We replaced the battery and I've attempted to vacuum out any dust particles that may have clogged the works, but the drat thing still keeps going off. Am I forgetting to do something here? This is driving me insane!
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Jul 18, 2012 00:05
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foxatee posted:My smoke alarm went off suddenly and will not stop. We replaced the battery and I've attempted to vacuum out any dust particles that may have clogged the works, but the drat thing still keeps going off. Am I forgetting to do something here? This is driving me insane! How old is it? Those things do expire, you know.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:52
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kid sinister posted:How old is it? Those things do expire, you know. Dunno. I rent, so it could be old. Guess i'll see if management will replace it. The other two are fine, though, and you'd figure they'd be the same age (or thereabouts).
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Jul 18, 2012 03:29
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Brice posted:Anyone have experience with the efficacy of heat reflective window tints? They are magic - a window it would be uncomfortable to stand in front of in full sunlight becomes much more bearable.
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Jul 18, 2012 07:43
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Crossposting from the woodworking thread: Found this old Craftsman lathe on Craigslist. The guy says that he can't find a model number on it, but he's only asking $50 OBO. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to the details of the lathe, or if it's worth $40 or $50 (assuming it runs)? I wouldn't mind having a restoration project. 
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Jul 18, 2012 20:15
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Just get it, figure out the rest as you go. There's nothing on it you can't make or have made.
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Jul 18, 2012 20:20
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I'd be surprised if there's less that $50 of cast iron in it, well worth a punt.
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Jul 18, 2012 21:05
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Brice posted:I keep the curtains closed on which ever side of the house the sun is on. They are fairly thick fabric curtains. My Finances dad does window tinting. Anyone have experience with the efficacy of heat reflective window tints? I just had my windows tinted and it makes a considerable difference. Here in Austin you actually get a rebate from the power company if you get more than 100sq. ft of windows done. One thing to keep in mind - while they do nearly eliminate the heat passing through the window, it will make the windows themselves quite hot.
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Jul 18, 2012 22:02
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Awesome. Thanks for all the info on the tint. I'll bribe my father-in-law over with some beer and BBQ.
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Jul 19, 2012 01:01
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I have a desk with particle board stuff for the top and it's swollen up in a few places thanks to drink-desk accidents. Is there a way to un-swell these spots?
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Jul 19, 2012 17:55
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Not in the way you'd think, the best you can do is dry it out completely (try an iron through a towel) then sand/plane the lumps down.
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Jul 19, 2012 21:58
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Cakefool posted:Not in the way you'd think, the best you can do is dry it out completely (try an iron through a towel) then sand/plane the lumps down. That's actually pretty much what I was expecting. Thankfully, I have all that kind of stuff and all I'd need is the right shade of white. Thanks! 
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Jul 19, 2012 22:22
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The Human Cow posted:Crossposting from the woodworking thread: My Dad has a similar lathe in storage inherited from a grandfather. If it is like his it doesn't actually have a motor in the head. The motor sits below it in a stand and the head just has 3 or 4 pulleys to offer a primitive speed control.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:44
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Thumposaurus posted:My Dad has a similar lathe in storage inherited from a grandfather. If it is like his it doesn't actually have a motor in the head. The motor sits below it in a stand and the head just has 3 or 4 pulleys to offer a primitive speed control. Yep, that's exactly the way this one is. I picked it up night before last, but my car broke down so I haven't had time to unload it and take pictures. It came with a 1/4 HP motor for power, but odds are that I'm going to have to replace the belt and all of that good stuff before I can try anything out. The guy had a garage full of older woodworking stuff he was trying to sell...if I had room I would have bought a lot more. A Shopsmith bandsaw and radial arm saw with dust collection system, a couple old Craftsman scroll saws, and a few more things.
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Jul 20, 2012 20:10
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I have one of these motorcycle helmet speaker system things (Scala G4) but one of the speakers no longer works. I'm off on a big trip soon and won't get them back from RMA in time, but it doesn't have to go that way. While I could only find one mention of this problem on google (which was resolved through RMA), I also found tons of people replacing the speakers with better ones, or with earphones. I found some unused headphones (Koss UR-40) that are way beyond the original speakers, I just don't know if they are suitable. The original speakers are 32 ohm, the Koss are 60 ohm. I've tried to figure out what it would mean to connect the bigger ones to the system but I can't really make sense of it. All I got is an article where a guy replaced 8 ohm speakers on a similar helmet sound system with 24 ohm ones, doesn't go into details other than he doesn't recommend it but it seems to work. I also found an unused 32 ohm headset (Creative HS 390) but they are only marginally better.. I'd like to make this an upgrade, not just a fix. edit: ok so if I got this right putting on lower ohm speakers would kill everything but putting on higher ohm speakers on is safe, they will just not go loud. Worth a try. Y'know, if I got it right. shimmy fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 17:59
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My apartment has these stupid vertical brick walls, and we're trying to hang pictures without needing to drill into the wall. We tried the 3M hooks, but the 3-lb ones didn't work (even though I'm pretty sure the pictures weigh less than that), and by that size they're pretty unwieldy. I've heard about brick clips, but only found ones that work up to a few inches; our bricks are 7.5" tall. What can we use to hang up our pictures?
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Jul 24, 2012 06:49
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Why can't you just drill in to them? A box of masonry anchors from lowes (which come with the correct size masonry bit and screws to fit the anchor) is all you need.shimmy posted:I have one of these motorcycle helmet speaker system things (Scala G4) but one of the speakers no longer works. I'm off on a big trip soon and won't get them back from RMA in time, but it doesn't have to go that way. While I could only find one mention of this problem on google (which was resolved through RMA), I also found tons of people replacing the speakers with better ones, or with earphones. Yes putting higher impedance (ohm rating) speakers than something is rated for will never hurt anything, because a higher impedance device draws less current than lower impedance. It will not be as loud, but you run no risk of damaging things. To put it in perspective, air is not a perfect insulator, it is in fact probably a 10 Mega Ohm load or more depending on the size of the air gap. So if you take the speakers out completely and the let the wires dangle, there is still a "speaker" in the circuit, its just millions of Ohms. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 20:43
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hooah posted:My apartment has these stupid vertical brick walls, and we're trying to hang pictures without needing to drill into the wall. We tried the 3M hooks, but the 3-lb ones didn't work (even though I'm pretty sure the pictures weigh less than that), and by that size they're pretty unwieldy. I've heard about brick clips, but only found ones that work up to a few inches; our bricks are 7.5" tall. What can we use to hang up our pictures? You could try getting a masonry nail and driving into the mortar between the bricks. Or you could buy the plastic masonry anchors and use them in the mortar between the bricks. Also a 7 1/2" brick sounds more like a block. Do you have grey cinder block walls?
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Jul 24, 2012 22:32
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PromethiumX posted:You could try getting a masonry nail and driving into the mortar between the bricks. Or you could buy the plastic masonry anchors and use them in the mortar between the bricks. Also a 7 1/2" brick sounds more like a block. Do you have grey cinder block walls? No, they're that tall and maybe 2" wide. They really are bricks sideways. I'd rather not do anything involving drilling because 1) I don't have a drill and 2) I don't think that falls under our renter's agreement, since it's actually a condo, not an apartment.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:41
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I don't think you're going to find any good solutions, I certainly can't think of any off the top of my head. The surface isn't smooth enough to use an adhesive, I wouldnt imagine. You could try driving a nail into the mortar, and just pull it out when you leave.
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Jul 25, 2012 13:55
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