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I need a couple 3/4" x 1 1/2" and 3/4" x 2" reducer bells for a decidedly non-plumbing application. Local hardware places don't seem to stock up to those sizes, seem to cap out at ~1 1/4" bells. Should I just head over to a local plumbing supply place, a thing I'm assuming actually exists?
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Jul 12, 2012 18:18
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I have two bathrooms in my condo. One of them has something subtly and terribly wrong with it. It's the toilet. The toilet works, pretty much. It's a bit slow to flush, if you poop in it it might take two or even three flushes to get everything down, but it doesn't actually clog up or overflow. It just needs encouragement. "You can do it, lil' crapper!" But every once in a while, I'll come home and something very bad has happened. The water in the bowl, which was clear and sparking and looked clean enough to drink (don't drink the toilet water) when I last used it and then flushed, has turned foul. Cloudy. Dark grey. With an actual skin formed on the surface of it. Even just lifting the lid releases a waft of stench foul enough to make your eyes water, and this gets ever so much worse when I flush this foulness down the drain. It doesn't do this every day. It doesn't happen every week. It doesn't seem related to when the toilet was last used. It just...happens. It's as if when no one is looking, something bubbles up from below and works some awful work. Is God doing this to my toilet? If not God, what? How can I stop this? The stench, dear Lord, the stench.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I need a couple 3/4" x 1 1/2" and 3/4" x 2" reducer bells for a decidedly non-plumbing application. Local hardware places don't seem to stock up to those sizes, seem to cap out at ~1 1/4" bells. Should I just head over to a local plumbing supply place, a thing I'm assuming actually exists? Ironically I tried to find something similar and I couldn't at a plumbing supply house. They would have to order them in. May I ask what you are doing? Phanatic posted:I have two bathrooms in my condo. One of them has something subtly and terribly wrong with it. The stench is odd, can you describe it? And I imagine you are on city water since you're in a condo.
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Jul 13, 2012 05:09
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:
Yep, city water. Once back when I was working for the Navy I took a dump and then left for the airport to go TDY for a week. Note that I forgot to flush, a fact I discovered when I returned home. That's what it smells like, only not so intense.
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Jul 13, 2012 15:22
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Define 'slow to go down'. Are you getting poo poo stuck in the hole that aaaaaaaalmost goes down but doesn't, does it "go down" but come back? As for the random stench, try an anti-bacterial cleaner. Sometimes something funky gets in there & goes apeshit with all the fresh water in a (presumably warm) climate which would explain the color, the film and the stench.
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Jul 13, 2012 15:42
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oldskool posted:Define 'slow to go down'. Are you getting poo poo stuck in the hole that aaaaaaaalmost goes down but doesn't, does it "go down" but come back? 'Slow to go down' means 'poo poo and wadded toilet paper goes partway down, but if you flush again, or maybe a third time, it goes all the way down and doesn't come back and the water looks clean again.' quote:As for the random stench, try an anti-bacterial cleaner. Sometimes something funky gets in there & goes apeshit with all the fresh water in a (presumably warm) climate which would explain the color, the film and the stench. It's definitely bacterial, but it's only occasional, I can not use the thing for days and it's still clean, other times I come home to a big aqueous petri dish next to my shower. Is it possible for the building's soil pipe to be backing up into my bowl or something like that? I should mention I'm on the third floor of the building so it would have to be backing up a hell of a lot.
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Jul 13, 2012 17:53
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ironically I tried to find something similar and I couldn't at a plumbing supply house. They would have to order them in. May I ask what you are doing? Building venturi burners for a gas forge, I do blacksmithing/metal stuff. The bell is at the back of the burner and helps create the vacuum that naturally aspirates the burner, as opposed to other types of burners that require an electric fan or a bellows or something else to provide air.
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Jul 13, 2012 18:29
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Building venturi burners for a gas forge, I do blacksmithing/metal stuff. The bell is at the back of the burner and helps create the vacuum that naturally aspirates the burner, as opposed to other types of burners that require an electric fan or a bellows or something else to provide air. I'd try ordering one on line. Since the best you'd get in town is bushings. And that wouldnt work.
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Jul 14, 2012 01:12
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Can anyone link me to an online store that sells a 3/4" frost-free silcock? I have full 3/4" running to an outdoor faucet, and I really, really want a 3/4" the whole way through. Everything I've found has been "3/4 FIP / 1/2 MIP" which is NOT what I am looking for.
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Jul 17, 2012 03:15
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insta posted:Can anyone link me to an online store that sells a 3/4" frost-free silcock? I have full 3/4" running to an outdoor faucet, and I really, really want a 3/4" the whole way through. Everything I've found has been "3/4 FIP / 1/2 MIP" which is NOT what I am looking for. 3/4" sweat, just frost-free or with a vacuum breaker also? Try a Woodford model 14CP3 without vac break, 17CP3 with. It's up to you to figure out the length you need. This place seems to have both online. edit: here's all their 17CP3s edit2: I'm on a roll. You probably want the "metal handle, bulk pack". I'm pretty sure that the non-"bulk pack" is just the retail cardboard box packaging. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 06:12
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Awesome, ordered 12" one. Thanks!
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Jul 17, 2012 06:37
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I'm building a steam sterilizer for my fiance and I'm making the boiler for it out of a 55 gallon steel drum. I'm going to get a pair of 3/4" steel nipples welded to the side: one for a drain at the bottom and another for a water inlet at the top. Since this thing's going outside, we're going to fill it with a garden hose. For the water inlet, I need something that will let water in without letting steam out. I'd like this thing to be as simple as possible. I think I need a check valve? What kind would I need?
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Jul 20, 2012 00:01
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I need some help with a kitchen sink issue -- I have a garbage disposal, dishwasher, and dual sink, and right now the dishwasher drain hose is connected to nothing. It used to be connected to the garbage disposal via a high loop, but there's not enough height under the counter, so the brine always gets into the dishwasher eventually leaking it. I've tried routing the hose dozens of ways but the high loop method just will not work. I bought an air gap, but I have granite countertops with two holes, one for the faucet, and another that was used for soap dispensing. I was going to install the air gap in the former soap dispensing hole, but it's only 1 1/8, while the air gap needs 1 1/4. So, the obvious thing to do would be to drill the hole bigger, right? Well, my wife is forbidding me from trying, and I've called a couple of contractors with my dilemma and basically none of them will guarantee that they won't crack the granite. I don't blame them. There apparently are no such things as air gaps with a 1 1/8 shaft (none I could find anyway). I feel like I'm SOL right now -- we don't use the dishwasher much (once a month tops), but having this huge appliance in my kitchen and not being able to use it bothers the hell out of me. Do I have any alternatives, or do I have to bite the bullet and drill a larger hole or never use my dishwasher?
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Jul 20, 2012 05:30
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1/8" isn't a whole lot of expansion to do by hand, if you were so inclined- I work with metal, so I don't know what sort of abrasives you use on stone, but if there's an equivalent to a round/half-round file for stone, I'd just take an hour or two and go to town on it, checking the fitting vs the hole frequently until it fits snugly. Maybe trace the new hole centred over the old one to be extra-sure that you're doing it evenly and properly. E: I looked it up, and diamond files are suggested for filing things like carbides, semi-precious stones and ceramics, and granite seems right up that alley.
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Jul 20, 2012 16:10
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Diamond files may work. Just keep in mind that granite is as hard as, well, granite. It's also brittle, and I don't know how you'd even be able to keep a 1-1/4 in bit centered in a 1-1/8 in hole reliably. Depending on the geometry of the sink and everything, you might be able to get a granite place to drill another hole instead and have an air gap PLUS a soap dispenser. Lyesh fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 16:44
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Sounds good -- I'll probably call a few granite places first. I know they will drill holes when ordering granite, but I wasn't sure if they made house calls. The hole is about 1.5" away from the edge, so hopefully there's less risk of it cracking. I'll check out the local Home Depot on the way home to see if they have a file that may be safer, since there's pretty much no way it'll crack when filing (I guess unless done very aggressively). I will never understand why there are 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 holes. It's such a small difference but such a drat headache with granite.
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Jul 21, 2012 00:14
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Bank posted:Sounds good -- I'll probably call a few granite places first. I know they will drill holes when ordering granite, but I wasn't sure if they made house calls. The hole is about 1.5" away from the edge, so hopefully there's less risk of it cracking. Just pay the $50 or so they charge to have them drill it. It will be much cheaper then you loving up the slab.
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Jul 21, 2012 02:56
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kid sinister posted:I'm building a steam sterilizer for my fiance and I'm making the boiler for it out of a 55 gallon steel drum. I'm going to get a pair of 3/4" steel nipples welded to the side: one for a drain at the bottom and another for a water inlet at the top. Since this thing's going outside, we're going to fill it with a garden hose. For the water inlet, I need something that will let water in without letting steam out. I'd like this thing to be as simple as possible. I think I need a check valve? What kind would I need? Anybody?
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Jul 24, 2012 01:42
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? You could do a boiler quick fill valve. It only feels when the press is below 10 psi
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Jul 24, 2012 05:56
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Though I see some issue with a quick fill valve. When the cold water hits the steam it expands (at a crazy rate).
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Jul 24, 2012 14:00
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Though I see some issue with a quick fill valve. When the cold water hits the steam it expands (at a crazy rate). We won't be keeping this boiler at any crazy high pressures. We're using the steam for sterilizing stuff, not for heating or turning a turbine or something. I doubt we'll ever go higher than 10 psi. Come to think of it, I will need a pressure relief valve too... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 16:15
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kid sinister posted:We won't be keeping this boiler at any crazy high pressures. We're using the steam for sterilizing stuff, not for heating or turning a turbine or something. I doubt we'll ever go higher than 10 psi. Come to think of it, I will need a pressure relief valve too... It will be hard to control I believe. Why not just use a pressure cooker?
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Jul 27, 2012 05:58
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It will be hard to control I believe. Why not just use a pressure cooker? Pressure cookers only hold 5 pounds or so. We're looking at 100 pounds to sterilize.
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Jul 28, 2012 15:44
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kid sinister posted:Pressure cookers only hold 5 pounds or so. We're looking at 100 pounds to sterilize. Be careful is all I am saying then. You will need safety measures or you will blow poo poo up. I'd recommend a pressure gauge too to make sure your safety devices havent failed.
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Jul 29, 2012 10:05
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Be careful is all I am saying then. You will need safety measures or you will blow poo poo up. I'd recommend a pressure gauge too to make sure your safety devices havent failed. I've seen the old videos of water heater rockets... That's what I'm trying to avoid. As far as safety devices go, so far I've planned for this relief valve and pressure gauge. Look good? What exactly is this "quick fill valve" you were talking about earlier?
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Jul 29, 2012 19:13
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Sorry I had the name wrong, its a fast fill. http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=453056023&linkfrom=froogle&gclid=CPGTjJjlv7ECFYUaQgod1zMAyQ This is used for make up water on a boiler. Though this only stops filling when it meets capacity. I don't know if this would work in your application. Because water would just keep flowing.
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Jul 29, 2012 22:08
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Bank posted:I will never understand why there are 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 holes. It's such a small difference but such a drat headache with granite.
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Jul 30, 2012 02:27
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sorry I had the name wrong, its a fast fill. http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=453056023&linkfrom=froogle&gclid=CPGTjJjlv7ECFYUaQgod1zMAyQ This is used for make up water on a boiler. Though this only stops filling when it meets capacity. I don't know if this would work in your application. Because water would just keep flowing. That would be up to the user. We aren't filling this "to capacity". I'm adding a "sight glass" of sorts to the side of the boiler, so we can see just where the water level is inside. Would that part you recommended really be what I need? I get the check valve function of that valve, but I don't get the pressure reducing function... edit: Wait, I think I get it. Water expands as it heats, increasing in pressure, so you need to reduce the pressure in the boiler from the line pressure. Once the target pressure is reached in the boiler tank, the valve closes. Right? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jul 30, 2012 |
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Jul 30, 2012 03:53
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kid sinister posted:That would be up to the user. We aren't filling this "to capacity". I'm adding a "sight glass" of sorts to the side of the boiler, so we can see just where the water level is inside. Would that part you recommended really be what I need? I get the check valve function of that valve, but I don't get the pressure reducing function... Water expands something like ten times when it turns to steam. I am just trying to think of a way to put water into the system and then seal it so no more leaks by and when the system is working and fresh water is accidently injected it wont blow up on you.
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Jul 30, 2012 05:57
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Water expands something like ten times when it turns to steam. I am just trying to think of a way to put water into the system and then seal it so no more leaks by and when the system is working and fresh water is accidently injected it wont blow up on you. Here's the basic design I plan on making: http://www.mushroomvideos.com/55-Gallon-Drum-Sterilizer The difference between that one and ours will be that our boiler won't also be feeding steam to a grow house. I'd like something more automated than the gate valve that they use for the entry. One more thing... Do you see that drain cock valve on top of the sterilizer for the steam exit? That guy uses it to choke down the steam to keep more steam in the sterilizer. What would be a safer valve to use and adjust without getting scalded?
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Jul 31, 2012 22:53
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Ohh ok I see how you're doing it. You can use a ball valve instead to some what throttle it. He may be using a globe valve to throttle the steam better. Aslo you can just pipe the valve up hire so you dont get burnt.
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Aug 1, 2012 14:57
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Sooooo what about my original question for the entry? Or should I just use a gate valve like he did? I guess I would need a check valve at the entry for safety too, not just ease of use... I don't want steam to be shooting the other way back out the entry at the user in case the user forgets to close the valve with the hose disconnected...
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 16:17
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I got a new fridge at long last, with an ice maker! Problem is, in order to run water to it I need an adaptor I can't seem to find. The supplies under my sink are 3/4" copper, so in order to adapt a quarter inch line, I need adaptor that is female 3/4" on one side, male 3/4" on the other, and male 1/4" on the third. Does such a thing exist? I need exactly this, but 3/4": 
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Aug 4, 2012 20:56
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Dragyn posted:I got a new fridge at long last, with an ice maker! Problem is, in order to run water to it I need an adaptor I can't seem to find. Are you talking the faucets entries are 3/4"? How does your faucet connect to the supply lines?
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Aug 5, 2012 01:11
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kid sinister posted:Are you talking the faucets entries are 3/4"? How does your faucet connect to the supply lines? The faucet supply line is threaded onto a 3/4 pipe. 
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Aug 5, 2012 02:31
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Dragyn posted:The faucet supply line is threaded onto a 3/4 pipe. Whoever threw together the halfassed supply lines for your kitchen sink spent way more than they needed to. Anyway that probably isn't 3/4" pipe. Copper pipe is measured by its inner diameter. That looks to be a 1/2" male iron pipe (MIP or MPT) on the end of the cold water side. Here, buy: this (you won't need the nut and tubing insert), this (one of the things from your original picture), and a new 3/8" compression x 1/2" FIP faucet supply line in whatever length you need to replace your cold water supply line. Oh, and if all the length from those extra fittings reaches out and touches your hot water line to the left, then you will need to throw a 1/2" street elbow on there first. edit: ooooooooooooooor just buy one of these that you asked for originally: 1/2" female IPS slip joint x 1/2" male IPS slip joint x 1/4" male compression (lead free). You still might need that street elbow depending on the length. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Aug 5, 2012 |
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Aug 5, 2012 07:03
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So I heard Shark bite fittings are not lead free. They are starting to offer lead free. I only heard this at a plumbing supply house so I don't know if its true or not. Can anyone confirm?
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Aug 6, 2012 07:20
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Looks that way: http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/lead-free-fittings Seems like they needed to do this to compete in CA and VT. Not sure how long they've been offering lead-free though.
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Aug 6, 2012 17:36
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kid sinister posted:Whoever threw together the halfassed supply lines for your kitchen sink spent way more than they needed to. Thanks for this, I ordered the one in your edit. Should do the trick nicely!
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Aug 6, 2012 20:28
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What do you guys use as a nail plate/guard for old studs that measure 2" instead of 1.5"
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Aug 8, 2012 06:16
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