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Dantu posted:Thanks, exactly what i was looking for. ARC Angels it is. I grabbed some of the 4 LED ones from BMS the other day, when they get here I'll install them and put up a couple of pictures.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:03
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Then take it to an indy BMW place and have them fix it. You might pay a little more labor but you'll pay way less in parts. Also you still haven't even said what is actually broken.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:10
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revmoo posted:Yeah that sucks. The car's doing pretty well these days, new Ireland Engineering exhaust, Are you still liking the IE exhaust? Been strongly considering it for my E36 as it's a couple hundred bucks less than the Stromung and others.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:57
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Fitment is meh sound is incredible.
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Jul 20, 2012 01:03
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is it an issue during install, or post install - like, tips hitting the exhaust tips cutout..?
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Jul 20, 2012 01:09
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I miss it already. But on the other hand, it'll eventually get replaced with an m3 which is much more in line with what I want. I realized today that I sold 3 of the 4 BMWs I've owned within a month of each other. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 21, 2012 |
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Jul 21, 2012 17:46
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Letting go is really hard. I often wonder where my e46 is now. Sadly my e30 was totaled by the dude I sold it to 
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Jul 21, 2012 18:02
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Yeah. I'm considering a move now where it would make sense to sell my zhp. It's just a machine and there's more of them and I've only had it 7 months but it's my [reasonably priced, daily driver] dream car!!!
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Jul 21, 2012 19:04
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Anyone care to comment generally on the E30 320s? Been looking at a "fun" car for driving during the summer months here in Sweden, and I have always liked the looks of the E30. The 320 (M20) seems like a pretty solid car, but what are its weak spots and what should one look for when buying one? Any particular things that break and cost a lot of money and effort to fix? Should mention that I am not looking for a fast car, but would like something that connects well with the road and is just fun to drive. I have a 9-5 Aero which goes like hell, is super comfortable, and handles quite well but is a very large and unwieldy beast. Also, having 250+ hp on tap has me realizing I don't really NEED that much, since all it does is lets you get into license-losing territory all the faster. Would rather have something lighter and smaller I can take on the fun country roads around here. Been looking at E30 320 convertibles since they are fairly reasonably priced and the ragtops appear to have been generally more cared for than the coupes/sedans. Advice? edit: Should clarify that the Aero is my year-round vehicle and I will of course keep it. Nothing beats a Saab in the winter (especially with studded Hakkas!). Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jul 21, 2012 |
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Jul 21, 2012 20:04
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Infinotize posted:Yeah. I'm considering a move now where it would make sense to sell my zhp. It's just a machine and there's more of them and I've only had it 7 months but it's my [reasonably priced, daily driver] dream car!!! I really wouldn't hesitate to buy another 6spd e46 as a daily should my e36 ever fail a safety inspection. They are probably the perfect mix of daily driver and fun. Just not quite what I wanted out of an autoX/track car. I was pretty sad to sell it to someone who really didn't seem to care too much about keeping it rustfree, but the market is just so crappy here I couldn't be picky. I just don't want to see it become another high mileage rusted heap in a few years. VVVVVVVVVV 5spd? Make sure you do the detent fix before you install it, if it hasn't been done. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jul 21, 2012 |
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Jul 21, 2012 20:28
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ZF box just popped up on my local Craigslist for a good price. Fingers crossed.
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Jul 21, 2012 20:40
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It seems my aux fan resistor, main fan, and fan clutch all decided to poo poo themselves simultaneously. The resistor is wide open so no slow speed, the fan is missing like 1/3 of a blade, and the fan clutch is quite wobbly and pretty much freewheels hot or cold. $155 shipped for all of it doesn't sound so bad considering I went with an OEM fan. Hopefully it will help idle A/C a bunch.
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Jul 23, 2012 08:41
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Would this thread be an ok spot for a Mini question? The girlfriend is looking at getting one, it'd be an automatic base model, likely 2005-2006ish. Other than the CVT being kind of boring, are there any major issues to be on the lookout for? Do they require the same amount of expensive maintenance as your average bimmer? My mom had three 3 series' over the years, and I would never have wanted to own one of those outside of warranty, lots of expensive sensors and such seemed to fail pretty often.
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Jul 23, 2012 17:50
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Given the nice weather last weekend I decided to open the moonroof on my E46, but in doing so I heard some loud rear end crunching noises. Immediately I knew I was hosed. The clips broke off and they're going to cost me $60+.. I understand that it costs money to continue manufacturing obscure parts, but this is a ridiculous markup for a part that breaks in almost every E46. Cost of driving the car, I guess.
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Jul 23, 2012 19:41
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Speaking of E46 moonroofs, the previous owner of mine found some way to jam the sunshade back into the recess completely, and I haven't found a way to pull the drat thing back out. Am I going to have pull the glass out to get at it?
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Jul 23, 2012 20:08
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Pulling the glass is actually not a big deal and you can do it by yourself. Go search the Bimmerfest/E46 fanatics sites for the DIY's. Use new plastic clips and clean up and lube the tracks, done. All the plastic poo poo fails on these cars.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:16
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The Third Man posted:Speaking of E46 moonroofs, the previous owner of mine found some way to jam the sunshade back into the recess completely, and I haven't found a way to pull the drat thing back out. Am I going to have pull the glass out to get at it? Try pulling it out with the glass at various stages of open (including vent). Sometimes I cannot move the shade at all, other times it closes without much force. Something about the position of the shade when you open/close/whatever can get it stuck sometimes. You could get lucky. I've got a 2003 sedan.
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Jul 23, 2012 21:42
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Pull the glass out. My sunshade was intermittently working ever since I bought the car. I should have just tried aligning it instead of wiggling it -- wiggling the shade got me to where I am now.
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Jul 23, 2012 21:54
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Pulling the glass is literally 6 t-20(maybe) screws and lifting it out. Then its just awkwardly trying to look in. The only thing is when putting it back in, there's a lot of room for adjustment, so make sure you don't tighten it down with it too high or too low.
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Jul 23, 2012 22:03
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So I finally bought the 135 I'd been eyeing for a good bit. A few friends are trying to convince me to do a track day this fall. I do have a (expensive) warranty on the car though and the language of the contract is intentionally vague on this subject. Do any of you guys have any experience tracking your under-warranty cars, and if so, have you guys had any problems getting BMW to honor repair claims afterwards?
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Jul 24, 2012 02:47
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Shao821 posted:So I finally bought the 135 I'd been eyeing for a good bit. A few friends are trying to convince me to do a track day this fall. I do have a (expensive) warranty on the car though and the language of the contract is intentionally vague on this subject. Do any of you guys have any experience tracking your under-warranty cars, and if so, have you guys had any problems getting BMW to honor repair claims afterwards? How would they find out?
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Jul 24, 2012 03:06
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Shao821 posted:So I finally bought the 135 I'd been eyeing for a good bit. A few friends are trying to convince me to do a track day this fall. I do have a (expensive) warranty on the car though and the language of the contract is intentionally vague on this subject. Do any of you guys have any experience tracking your under-warranty cars, and if so, have you guys had any problems getting BMW to honor repair claims afterwards? It's very obvious because your service interval will drop down from ~15-17k to <6k. Break wear on the rear pads stands out if it's been tracked because of the eLSD used in modern BMWs which uses independent braking to reduce rotational velocity during low traction conditions. Additionally, your car records telemetry for diagnostic purposes that could easily indicate repeated, hard driving. So, like most things in life, you own the risk. If something out of the ordinary fails (When your HPFP fails they're not going to try and weasel out of a warranty repair) you'll probably be fine. If something else fails you might run into issues.
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Jul 24, 2012 03:21
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Jealous Cow posted:It's very obvious because your service interval will drop down from ~15-17k to <6k. Break wear on the rear pads stands out if it's been tracked because of the eLSD used in modern BMWs which uses independent braking to reduce rotational velocity during low traction conditions. Additionally, your car records telemetry for diagnostic purposes that could easily indicate repeated, hard driving. Would it be a good idea to run the idea by the service center to try to get a more definitive answer? The response "How would they know?" does seem naive as your post details. Is it better to just abandon all hope of ever seeing this car at its peak unless I want to take responsibility for thousands in repairs?
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Jul 24, 2012 04:22
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Regardless of BMW warranty diagnostics, all insurance contracts now have lines regarding "performance driving events on race tracks" meaning, autox and skills classes at an airport okay, anything on a track not okay and you have to buy supplemental policy for track days...not a huge deal but more $$$. I think I read some urban legend about people literally towing their cars out of Thunderhill (SCCA track in Norcal) and then calling AAA from a few miles away. I'm sure (if true) that it worked about twice before the insurance company ran some gps and figured out where these people really were. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 04:43
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You can buy track day insurance on a per-day basis though, based on your stated value of vehicle.
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Jul 24, 2012 06:41
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Jealous Cow posted:Break wear on the rear pads stands out if it's been tracked because of the eLSD used in modern BMWs which uses independent braking to reduce rotational velocity during low traction conditions. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 06:46
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BlackMK4 posted:Holy poo poo, does the E90/92 M3 have the eLSD or is it mechanical? If it's an eLSD then that explains a whole hell of a lot... I've been beating on one for the past couple of months and it feels really, really weird. No, the M cars have real LSDs. It's just non-M that have stupid electronic diffs, which a lot of manufacturers are switching to these days.
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Jul 24, 2012 10:19
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Crustashio posted:No, the M cars have real LSDs. It's just non-M that have stupid electronic diffs, which a lot of manufacturers are switching to these days. Bingo. There are some ardent defenders of the eLSD saying that it's good enough for what most armature drivers, even on a track, will ever need, but I think they're unpredictable and wasteful in some settings. A real LSD uses mechanical gearing to slow down the wheel that's spinning faster, and that power mostly goes to the other wheel. The eLSD uses the brakes to slow down the wheel that's moving faster, fighting against the engine while doing it. It can't "send" the power back to the other wheel, it's just converted to heat and lost. BMW used to offer a mechanical LSD as an option on most cars. I wish hey still did, I would have spent a a thousand or so more on it easily.
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Jul 24, 2012 12:14
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Keyser S0ze posted:Regardless of BMW warranty diagnostics, all insurance contracts now have lines regarding "performance driving events on race tracks" meaning, autox and skills classes at an airport okay, anything on a track not okay and you have to buy supplemental policy for track days...not a huge deal but more $$$. At least with the two policies I have available to look at they don't care about track usage, just competition. Basically an open track day is fine, but if there's timing, prizes, or anything that implies actual racing you're on your own.
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Jul 24, 2012 16:21
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wolrah posted:At least with the two policies I have available to look at they don't care about track usage, just competition. Basically an open track day is fine, but if there's timing, prizes, or anything that implies actual racing you're on your own. Mine as well until about 3 years ago when people on Bimmerfest and the driving event sites started noticing a new part in the "competitive contest" section popping up, so at that point I started reviewing the actual full policy booklet. Almost immediately all the track day insurance programs ramped up. Here is mine: bold part wasn't there until 3 years ago Mercury Insurance: Part III - Physical Damage Exclusions: This policy does not apply under Part III: (a)......loss due to war, radioactive contamination, etc blah blah blah (n) (m) to loss occurring while a motor vehicle is being operated in any pre-arranged contest or competitive events OR ON ANY TRACK OR OTHER FACILITY that may be used for such contests or events;
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Jul 24, 2012 16:37
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So I know I've been posting about this a lot, but there's always some new question isn't there? Still on the hunt for a 540i, found this one: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3148869636.html That's the kind of thing that scares off the average person, but just how difficult is it to replace the gauge cluster? It's way under budget so I'd have plenty of money to fix it, and if all that internal engine work was done well (with records of course) it could be in pretty good shape right? I absolutely love that color, hence why I'm willing to do some work.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:36
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Deceptor101 posted:So I know I've been posting about this a lot, but there's always some new question isn't there? Still on the hunt for a 540i, found this one: I'm at work, but browsing around the internet briefly shows that gauge cluster replacement probably isn't very expensive. I don't know about the rest of it.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:41
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Deceptor101 posted:So I know I've been posting about this a lot, but there's always some new question isn't there? Still on the hunt for a 540i, found this one: I also have a 2000 540i. In my case, the pixels did work (you could read the info if you looked at it right), it was the backlight that was out. There are two small bulbs behind the pixels that light up the odometer, trip mileage and external temperature. They're the tan-base ones if you order them from bavauto, about $3 per (BMW part number 62 11 1 391 260) Took me all of five minutes to remove the cluster, swap the bulbs out and reinstall. This isn't a guarantee that it's the backlight, but the same thing happened on my E36 as well so I'd say it's probably pretty likely. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 17:56
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Thanks for the advice. I'm going to check the car out tonight and see how it feels. I'm a little concerned because I talked with him and apparently the cause for the big timing/valve repair was overheating. He said the mechanic checked the heads and everything was fine, but he clearly isn't much of a wrencher. Ideally I'll look at the mechanic notes and repair paperwork myself to evaluate it better. I know one of the big things to look for on the m62 e39s is the timing tensioner though, so that could be one thing out of the way. Then it's just thrust arms and the usual BMW cooling system right?
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Jul 24, 2012 23:32
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Keyser S0ze posted:(m) to loss occurring while a motor vehicle is being operated in any pre-arranged contest or competitive events OR ON ANY TRACK OR OTHER FACILITY that may be used for such contests or events; Auto-x is competitive, and therefore not covered. Shao821 posted:Would it be a good idea to run the idea by the service center to try to get a more definitive answer? The response "How would they know?" does seem naive as your post details. Is it better to just abandon all hope of ever seeing this car at its peak unless I want to take responsibility for thousands in repairs? If you ask the service center, they'll just tell you no. You need to be prepared to own any mechanical damage you do on track (risk is there, but fairly minimal if you're a beginner at a DE with good instruction). But, if you break something and it could've plausibly happened on the street, you'll be fine, just don't volunteer that it happened on the track.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:55
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Shao821 posted:Would it be a good idea to run the idea by the service center to try to get a more definitive answer? The response "How would they know?" does seem naive as your post details. Is it better to just abandon all hope of ever seeing this car at its peak unless I want to take responsibility for thousands in repairs? You should purchase track day insurance. For a 30K car it is about $200. Most (all?) insurance providers have changed their policies to exclude accidents that occur on tracks, HPDE or not. Given that is only $200 even if your current insurance would cover a claim it would cost you a lot more than $200 as you'd lose no accident discount, possibly get dropped as they know you "track," etc. With regards to BMW I have heard of dealers still covering the free maintenance on tracked cars (don't tell them you were at track obviously) as long as the intervals aren't completely absurd. I don't see any issues regarding the warranty, like if your HPFP fails at the track.
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Jul 25, 2012 00:26
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I did not realize the canadian market for e36 m3s was so terrible until I actually started looking. It seems like everything is either beat to poo poo, or ridiculously overpriced. I've only been able to get leads on two that actually seem worth looking at. The first is a hellrot on black sedan, non-lux. Pretty rare and awesome looking car: http://gtaindetail.com/pics/m3040808/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/51121815@N02/4698137837/in/photostream It looks immaculate and the maintenance records are apparently pretty thorough, but he's asking 16k with 136,000mi. I'm half tempted to offer 14 since it already has decent ~2k coilovers (kw V2s) and some other tasteful things.  The second isn't so immaculate (http://photobucket.com/ferngreen1999 password 1999m3), but the price seems good. Already got him down to 9000, but it has issues. Tear/hole in the bolster, rock chips on the hood, slight scratch near the trunk. Also apparently had some front bumper work done, and $2300 in bodywork on the door from a parking lot collision. No maintenance records but has had some recent work. I'd probably budget 2-3k for immediate repairs on whatever hasn't been done. Deceptor101 posted:So I know I've been posting about this a lot, but there's always some new question isn't there? Still on the hunt for a 540i, found this one: Gauge cluster is probably one of the easiest jobs to do, especially since an e39 should have tilt steering. Remove the 2 screws, then use a trim remover tool to kinda pop it forward. Then just pull out, remove connectors and install the new cluster. 20 minutes if you take your time. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 03:17
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Crustashio posted:Gauge cluster is probably one of the easiest jobs to do, especially since an e39 should have tilt steering. Remove the 2 screws, then use a trim remover tool to kinda pop it forward. Then just pull out, remove connectors and install the new cluster. This is a general question... But when you swap clusters on the E39, does it have to make a trip to the dealer to sync them up? And question 2. 1990 E34 535i - owner says its miss firing. I did some looking on the internet. It could be a couple of things, but I will ask to see what AI has to say. It its either the distributor cap or the MAF. What are the chances of it just being a cap and rotor issue.
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Jul 25, 2012 03:24
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Crustashio posted:Gauge cluster is probably one of the easiest jobs to do, especially since an e39 should have tilt steering. Remove the 2 screws, then use a trim remover tool to kinda pop it forward. Then just pull out, remove connectors and install the new cluster. 20 minutes if you take your time. . I love that dark blue....BrokenKnucklez posted:This is a general question... But when you swap clusters on the E39, does it have to make a trip to the dealer to sync them up? I too am curious about this, it would make sense that you would have to, unless the mileage is kept in the ECU and just fed to the cluster.
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Jul 25, 2012 04:39
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Realjones posted:You should purchase track day insurance. For a 30K car it is about $200. Just so everybody is clear, track day insurance is comparable to collision coverage with your everyday insurance. It does not cover mechanical breakdown.
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Jul 25, 2012 04:59
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