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Mk II of my purity seals, now with 100% more bullet holes.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:20
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Lethemonster posted:Dr: You did not come to the doctors in time and did too much running about and stuff when you had bronchitis. Now be super careful. Dont do anything like sport or painting. 
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Jul 24, 2012 23:22
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Purgey posted:
e: Hold on, they ship Canada post? And aren't stupidly priced? Hmmm. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 23:24
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Lethemonster posted:Dr: You did not come to the doctors in time and did too much running about and stuff when you had bronchitis. Now be super careful. Dont do anything like sport or painting.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:34
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I wish I had more to report but this is the progress so far. If I had longer stretches of time to work, like an actual working day, I bet I could move a lot faster. Alas, we can only hold so many limes. I will probably improve my time when I gain more XP with the FIMO...   edit: added view Hellbeard fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 00:37
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lilljonas posted:gently caress doctors, what do they know about priorities? About the value of showing other people your paintjobs for poits? About being shouted at by sole sushi for your WIP pictures? About honour? I keep meaning to tell you, that I hate you and your AP photos. Hate.
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Jul 25, 2012 01:21
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Jonny Nox posted:yeah they look really flat. Definitely a wash, perhaps adding a darker tone to the blue for just that little bit more depth. Maybe highlight instead? Just old-skool drybrush them. Highlander Studios is reasonably priced and the shipping is quite quick. Do it. 15mm is The Best Scale (tm) I'm not satisfied with my previous blue bugs so I'm experimenting with a new scheme. It kind of reminds me of the Halo aliens.    Still needs one bright highlight on the edge of the carapace, in my opinion. I'm MUCH more satisfied with this color scheme, though. I think white for the eyes turned out particularly nicely. I have a blog where I'm collecting my 15mm work, check it out if you like. http://blasterforhire.blogspot.com/ Some of the other blogs on my list are really good if you're interested in 15mm Sci-Fi. "Tiny Solitary Soldiers" is a great start. Guy paints his 15mm stuff really drat well.
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Jul 25, 2012 01:40
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Crosspostin' a Tyranid Tervigon I finished recently: Being such a large model I decided I wanted to be thorough--the drat thing took 8+ hours to paint fully. The most terrifying this is I need to get to painting one to two more. Great model, but drat it's a lot of detail to obsess over.
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Jul 25, 2012 02:07
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That's a cool rear end model. Great sculpt, great paintjob. (But paint your sand)
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Jul 25, 2012 04:34
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The red on that tervigon is rad.
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Jul 25, 2012 04:43
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PierreTheMime posted:Crosspostin' a Tyranid Tervigon I finished recently: Drool. Could you tell me what paints you used for the red shell, and the pinkish underbelly?
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Jul 25, 2012 04:48
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Pierre, it's been a long time since we've seen a full army shot of your Nids, and it's got to be a hell of a thing.
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Jul 25, 2012 06:47
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Hey PV, I know it may not be needed, but I noticed you had the B&C Space Marine paint scheme planning thing in the OP and figured this could go there as well: http://gtazz.com/kataan/igdesigner/ Been using it over the past few days trying to come up with a paint scheme for my IG army I'm planning out. I am however a newbie here so I may have missed it already having been posted sometime in the past 700 pages or so as I'm only through about 150.
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Jul 25, 2012 07:10
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I'm looking to get backing to 40k and I have a bunch of dudes covered in black primer from probably like 8 years ago. My question is if the primer should still be good to paint on or if I should just simple green the guys and start fresh. I'll obviously clean them from dust and whatnot, but I don't really know how primer works.
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Jul 25, 2012 07:42
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I don't know if this is the right thread for this, but I just got my first finecast and there's no missing detail or bubbles although it has done this: http://i.cubeupload.com/JUJGoE.jpg Should I return the buckled ones or what? E: oh god the mobile app didn't show the table breaking, my bad. ijyt fucked around with this message at 10:37 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 09:48
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Absolutely.
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Jul 25, 2012 10:06
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That is loving shocking. Does QA...just not exist there?
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Jul 25, 2012 10:37
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krushgroove posted:That is loving shocking. Does QA...just not exist there? Is shocking really the term for something that seems like it should be rather unsurprising by this point? 
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Jul 25, 2012 11:16
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It's just shocking that it's accepted and there's nothing done to correct it before it leaves. It's putting out a lovely product and waiting for customers to come back with complaints - it's not good business, not good for customers, etc. But they have nearly a monopoly and people put up with it, so why change? It's just lovely.
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Jul 25, 2012 11:23
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I have some old metal ones and they look just as bent inwards. I know there are ways to bend resin, though finecast is a special mix so I would ask others who have reshaped bent swords and the like. Usually you let the resin quickly dip into hot water then delicately move the parts where you need them and let cool. I was always worried about doing this since if the material is weak enough to bend then I might push fingerprints or tong marks into the surface. edit: You can still look into replacing them, but they might always look that way.
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Jul 25, 2012 11:31
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will blow your mind.
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If any of you enjoy painting dwarves, a really nice kickstarter is about to end: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2087444096/dwarven-adventurers-box-set
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Jul 25, 2012 12:08
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It is so  when a kickstarter goes ridiculously over like that. It really makes me hopeful.If only I had space for lots of minis.
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Jul 25, 2012 12:36
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sexart posted:Drool. Chitin = Primed with Chaos Black, base coat of Red Gore and Chaos Black, Red Gore, Red Gore and Blood Red (80/20 mix), Red Gore and Blood Red (50/50 mix), and then 1-2 additional highlights of Blood Red. Wash with Agrax Earthshade and water (60/40) (alright I lied, I have a new pot of shade because it's so much better than ol' Devlan Mud). The underbelly was painted as the rest of the skin was: Black primer, Taucept Ochre base, Taucept Ochre and Bleached Bone (50/50 mix), Bleached Bone, Bleached Bone and Skull White (80/20 mix). The underbelly was then stained multiple times with layers of Red Gore and water (probably about a 20/80 mix), and then the whole thing was gone over with Agrax Earthshade and water (60/40). Fix posted:Pierre, it's been a long time since we've seen a full army shot of your Nids, and it's got to be a hell of a thing.  I still have more than twice that left to paint.  It doesn't help that I have army ADD and have about the same amount of Space Marines and Necrons painted as well, along with a contingent of Chaos Space Marines and Daemons.
PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Jul 25, 2012 |
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Jul 25, 2012 13:17
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Very nice. Tell us you have that on display at all times. Small update on the Aldi 'All-in-1' disinfectant as a paint stripper: I experimented with one plastic Chaos Space Marine for a few days (thinking Khorne wouldn't really mind sacrificing one soldier, being a chaos god and all) and the paint came off that pretty well and the styrene survived just fine. It looked like it had been primed black, then painted over with red and trimmed with gold. The plastic wasn't affected so I tossed the rest of the painted berzerkers in there and left them for maybe 4 whole days over the weekend. Since these were bought in the same eBay listing, I assumed they would have been painted with the same paints, etc., but on some of them the red came off easily to expose a pure black, not sure if it's primer or if the models had been supplied at some point in black plastic? I haven't tried scraping the black to see if it's plastic yet though. Of the 10 plastic models I have that were red, about 4 are now all black, the rest are 99% stripped, with red and/or black in just the hard to reach crevices. The metal chaos terminators are the same, except with black in the crevices, and the chaos dreadnought has even less paint in its crevices. One terminator is almost completely bare, I'm guessing it wasn't primed. Once I wash these I'll assemble them back together with Green Stuff and then get back to actually painting! Stripping can take ages, though - I watched 2 hours of TV while brushing off the plastic models, and spent at least double that doing the terminators & dreadnought. I know wargaming is an overall loss in terms of money, but if you want to calculate how much time it takes to do all this work on crappy models you've bought online, versus buying primed & base-painted models on eBay...you're probably coming out behind. If that matters to you.
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Jul 25, 2012 13:51
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Those are really sweet Pierre, a nice group shot like that looks great.
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Jul 25, 2012 13:56
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So happy my Genestealers are going to be so well taken care of. Very nice looking Nids!
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Jul 25, 2012 14:09
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Failed my oath due to DOUBLE SICKNESS so posting up some of my older stuff to feel better.     
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Jul 25, 2012 14:50
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krushgroove posted:Very nice. Tell us you have that on display at all times. The black marines are probably just stained by the primer. Sometimes the chemical bond is weak, sometimes it isn't. You can try throwing it in for another few days but you can probably just prime over it.
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Jul 25, 2012 17:28
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A guy on reddit posted photos of a BloodBowl table he's made for a friend. It's completely goddamn fantastic!  Reddit thread
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Jul 25, 2012 19:58
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I've been using the tamiya weathering powders on this month's oath, and I'm wondering how you guys seal them. Dullcote tends to take the dirty grainyness away, which is part of the charm.
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Jul 25, 2012 21:37
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The Supreme Court posted:A guy on reddit posted photos of a BloodBowl table he's made for a friend. This thing is unreal.
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Jul 25, 2012 21:45
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I find most of the stuff in Reddit's Warmachine section to be pretty lovely 80% of the time, and I don't frequent the other wargaming sections... but holy poo poo that's incredible. 
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Jul 25, 2012 22:47
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Well, drat. Now I want to play Bloodbowl.
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Jul 25, 2012 23:05
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Manifest posted:I've been using the tamiya weathering powders on this month's oath, and I'm wondering how you guys seal them. Fixing solution (water) seems to be the popular solution. Seal the model, mix a bit of water with the pigment, brush it on where you want it, let it dry, then seal it again. If you're already doing that, then I'm not sure how to fix your particular dilemma.
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Jul 25, 2012 23:46
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krushgroove posted:Well, drat. Now I want to play Bloodbowl. Everyone should want to play Bloodbowl
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Jul 25, 2012 23:47
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Manifest posted:I've been using the tamiya weathering powders on this month's oath, and I'm wondering how you guys seal them. I'm not sure what else could work. That's why I slap it on a little heavier than I want, that way it's still there after I seal it.
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Jul 26, 2012 00:19
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I'm a long way from using the powders yet, but from what I've read on sites like From The Warp, any attempt to varnish over the powders will change the look of them, so for display it's recommended to not varnish over the powders, and for tabletop models it's recommended to just accept the powder will come off a bit, or varnish over it knowing the look with change, or just use a rust brush or wash effect. I haven't tried any of these, but that's what I've seen in articles.
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Jul 26, 2012 00:28
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Sole.Sushi posted:Fixing solution (water) seems to be the popular solution. Seal the model, mix a bit of water with the pigment, brush it on where you want it, let it dry, then seal it again. I haven't tried water, I'll give that a shot. Thanks.
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Jul 26, 2012 00:28
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I can't make out the little squares on that pitch. Isn't the game played on a grid?
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Jul 26, 2012 01:48
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 I ended up just doing a bunch applications of the dirt with varnish layers in between. Eventually you can build it to look almost like it does pre-varnish. (But not close enough really.)
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Jul 26, 2012 01:56
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