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Yeah, nuts on studs. Thanks guys, I guess I can take it into a shop and have them take an impact gun to it, don't want to gently caress things up even more here.
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Jul 26, 2012 03:07
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:48 |
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Discomancer posted:Yeah, nuts on studs. Thanks guys, I guess I can take it into a shop and have them take an impact gun to it, don't want to gently caress things up even more here. Harbor Freight's electric impact gun is $50 or less and awesome for occasional use.
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Jul 26, 2012 03:29
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I have Neiko impact gun, works nicely. Remember to keep NiCad batteries under 50% charge when in storage, or as low as you can without hitting 0v on any of the cells. At high charge they form dendrites.
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Jul 26, 2012 05:42
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Lithium-ion supremacy. 
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Jul 26, 2012 06:29
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nsaP posted:I almost shared a john boat with a friend but I got out before it ruined our friendship and john boats don't crash so easy. I almost shared a john with a friend, but I got out before it got weird.
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Jul 26, 2012 07:44
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Saga posted:I almost shared a john with a friend, but I got out before it got weird. I almost shared my friend with a john, but it got weird before I got it out.
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Jul 26, 2012 09:32
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My friend John and I shared some words so I told him to get out
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Jul 26, 2012 10:18
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If you're a fisherperson from below the mason-dixon who loves him some motorcycles, you can now avoid the perils of sharing a john boat and combine your two favourite hobbies into one! Sharing with a friend can still end in tragedy, for obvious reasons. (Before anyone asks, the rack for the duck gun is on the left side.)
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Jul 26, 2012 11:26
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My GS500 just passed the 10,000 km mark (just over 6,000 miles), and ever since a few weeks ago, I've noticed a new clicking sound in time with the engine. It doesn't click with every turnover though. Sounds random, a little like morse-code, noticeable at idle:code:(PS what is the technical (or 'more correct') term to describe the engine turning over chugga chugga chugga?)
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Jul 26, 2012 17:34
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epalm posted:
I'm pretty sure that's as technical as it gets, homie
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Jul 26, 2012 19:12
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epalm posted:
A video.
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Jul 26, 2012 19:12
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epalm posted:My GS500 just passed the 10,000 km mark (just over 6,000 miles), and ever since a few weeks ago, I've noticed a new clicking sound in time with the engine. It doesn't click with every turnover though. Sounds random, a little like morse-code, noticeable at idle: Check out the Suzuki service bulletin for this problem, and see if this is the issue.
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Jul 26, 2012 19:44
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Also check your timing chain tension(er). Not sure what the GS uses but I've heard several loose timing chains that sounded like a morse code click.
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Jul 26, 2012 23:09
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Replaced the brakes yesterday, weather cleared, and I went to bed them. Found a parking lot. 60-10, two laps, repeat 6x. Rear brake was 40-10. Then I went on a bit of a ride to scrub the new tires. The front brakes are dragging. After about 2 minutes at 35mph, they start to squeak. Any application of the brakes makes the squeak stop. Hard stops makes the sound go away longer. The brake discs are hot to the touch with no use of the brakes. Normal for new pads? Will it go away? Will I glaze these by riding 50-70miles at 75mph on Monday?
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Jul 28, 2012 22:44
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I bought my first motorcycle on Saturday, and while I was riding around Sunday afternoon I discovered a fun fact about the bike at... Not the LEAST opportune time, but pretty bad nonetheless. The key won't stay in the ignition. I turn the bike on, and the key is supposed to stay put, right? Wrong. My key-chain was rattling against something in an annoying way, so I tried to flick it over the top of the ignition and it flings out of the ignition and into traffic on Denny Way just south of Seattle Center. I managed to wave a car aside and grab it before more than one car ran over my key-chain. Luckily my key wasn't damaged. Any ideas on how to fix this? Or should I just keep tucking my keys in my jacket pocket while I ride, then pulling em back out to turn off the bike.
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Jul 30, 2012 22:39
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DJ_Ferret posted:I bought my first motorcycle on Saturday, and while I was riding around Sunday afternoon I discovered a fun fact about the bike at... Not the LEAST opportune time, but pretty bad nonetheless. What bike is this on? A number of Harleys I've ridden have keys that "unlock" the ignition panel, which then can be rotate without a key.
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Jul 30, 2012 22:41
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2004 Ninja 500r. It doesn't have an unlock like that as far as I know.
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Jul 30, 2012 22:46
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DJ_Ferret posted:2004 Ninja 500r. It doesn't have an unlock like that as far as I know. Nope, it definitely does not. Bike probably had the ignition punched at some point in the past. Can you turn it with a screwdriver?
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Jul 30, 2012 22:54
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Z3n posted:What bike is this on? A number of Harleys I've ridden have keys that "unlock" the ignition panel, which then can be rotate without a key. Maybe use some Loc-Tite to keep the key in place.  Don't do this.
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Jul 30, 2012 23:02
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What's the collective understanding on CA about warming up the engine? For an air cooled bike is it better to leave the choke on for 5 minutes with the bike resting on it's side stand, or riding it with the choke on and gradually closing it as the bike gets warm? Edit: for reference, I usually start the engine with the choke on and just let the bike sit there for about 5 minutes. I hadn't thought about the possibility of riding it with the choke on or half open or anything like that and wanted some input on it. If I can just start the drat thing and ride it with the choke on and close it after a mile or so it'll make life much easier. LooksLikeABabyRat fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jul 31, 2012 |
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Jul 31, 2012 00:05
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As part of cekebrating my getting a new job, I got a set of Galfer brake lines for my SV's front system. After installing the new lines, I went to pour brake fluid into the MC and the fluid won't go down into the lines. I pumped the brake lever but it would just give off a couple air bubbles and then not do anything after that. I compared the washers with the Galfer front brake lines on my other SV, and they seem to be fine. 3 washers at the MC, and 2 washers for each caliper. The calipers have speed bleeders too. What gives?
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Jul 31, 2012 00:13
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Your brakes need to be bled. Tighten everything up, fill the system up, crack open the speed bleeder, and get to work. =)
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Jul 31, 2012 00:22
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:What's the collective understanding on CA about warming up the engine? For an air cooled bike is it better to leave the choke on for 5 minutes with the bike resting on it's side stand, or riding it with the choke on and gradually closing it as the bike gets warm? I start my bike with the choke on, ride it for a minute, and gradually back it down until the bike runs normally. It's going to run on a little at lower RPM when you have the choke on, so be aware of that (more fuel, higher idle, bike will pull a bit forward with the throttle shut) the walkin dude posted:As part of cekebrating my getting a new job, I got a set of Galfer brake lines for my SV's front system. After installing the new lines, I went to pour brake fluid into the MC and the fluid won't go down into the lines. I pumped the brake lever but it would just give off a couple air bubbles and then not do anything after that. I compared the washers with the Galfer front brake lines on my other SV, and they seem to be fine. 3 washers at the MC, and 2 washers for each caliper. The calipers have speed bleeders too. What gives? Get a vacuum bleeder to pull the fluid through the lines.
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Jul 31, 2012 00:24
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:What's the collective understanding on CA about warming up the engine? For an air cooled bike is it better to leave the choke on for 5 minutes with the bike resting on it's side stand, or riding it with the choke on and gradually closing it as the bike gets warm? I would say in general the older the bike is or the more racing focused the bike is the more the bike will want to be warmed up. Dirtbikes with real race engines I always warm up very carefully. Just let it come up to temperature slowly via idling. This is especially important if the bike has forged pistons. With older bikes if you can get away with running on the choke and it doesn't foul plugs or really sputter I'd probably just go for it. I just wouldn't romp on the motor until you've been riding it for ~5 minutes. 5 minutes of easy riding should get just about any bike up to operating temps. ~*My 1971 Yamaha R5~* gets really grumpy about being ridden cold, so I have to idle it to warm it up.
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Jul 31, 2012 02:17
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Z3n posted:I start my bike with the choke on, ride it for a minute, and gradually back it down until the bike runs normally.
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Jul 31, 2012 02:17
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EFI and water-cooled, starts up on the first crank every time and ready to go immediately.  But seriously, I think it's been pretty well proven that the best and most efficient way to warm up any engine is to drive the drat thing just don't ream on it until it comes up to operating temperature. Idling an engine takes forever to warm it up and wastes a lot of gas.
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Jul 31, 2012 02:25
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:This is the procedure for all motor vehicles. Drive it to warm it up, just don't hammer on it. No need to idle and wait. Doing it this way helps the whole bike warm up at once, too. Warm engine with cold brakes and tires is a bit of a dicey combo - even if it's essentially an issue with the wingnut behind the tank.
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Jul 31, 2012 02:26
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clutchpuck posted:Doing it this way helps the whole bike warm up at once, too. Warm engine with cold brakes and tires is a bit of a dicey combo - even if it's essentially an issue with the wingnut behind the tank. Yea. This has been my mantra as well. With cars and now the bike too. Once oil pressure has been reached (usually occurs a few seconds starting) your good to start moving. Just be gentle and progressive with the revs using more revs as oil temps rise. My starting procedure is as follows, Full choke Start button + crack throttle a bit Feather choke down to 2500rpm Put on gloves and helmet Choke down to 1600rpm which is just above idle Ride for 1 minute (usually two stoplights) Choke off Once you get a routine going it's nothing at all.
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Jul 31, 2012 03:07
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Idling to warm up is a chump's game. I don't even start it when I'm gearing up, I duck walk that bitch out the driveway then bump it going down the street.
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Jul 31, 2012 05:35
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Heck, I've just been duckwalking it the whole way without even turning the key on. Feels kinda gutless on inclines but my fuel economy has been spectacular.
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Jul 31, 2012 05:39
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Don't listen to any of these guys if you have wiseco pistons (you probably don't).
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Jul 31, 2012 05:49
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I have a 250 rebel it hardly has pistons.
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Jul 31, 2012 06:05
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Z3n posted:Nope, it definitely does not. Bike probably had the ignition punched at some point in the past. Can you turn it with a screwdriver? I can turn it far enough to dis-engage the steering column lock, which is mildly disconcerting. I think I need to get a u-lock or a chain or something.
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Jul 31, 2012 06:06
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I used to be religious about warming up my RS125 - idle on choke for 5-10 minutes depending on air temperature (noticeably the largest digital display was the water temperature, and it showed COLD in massive letters until it was at 40 degrees) then clsoe the choke and ride off keeping it below 6,000 rpm and 1/4 throttle until it hit 80, exactly as the manual said I should. That was a bike that had piston and ring replacement at 12k kms as an actual service item though. On modern bikes though, as many have said, as long as you're not bouncing it off the limiter the second you start it, you'll be fine riding off as soon as it starts.
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Jul 31, 2012 07:22
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DJ_Ferret posted:I can turn it far enough to dis-engage the steering column lock, which is mildly disconcerting. I think I need to get a u-lock or a chain or something. You need a new ignition barrel and keys. The old one is probably located by security bolts which will need to be drilled out and replaced with new. Look on e-bay for an aftermarket part to fit, or here is an example (not necessarily your year): http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/gpz_500_s_ex_500_a2-a3/88-89/picture/ignition_switch/
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Jul 31, 2012 11:42
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I've been hitting a lot of false neutrals between 2nd and 3rd on the WRX. At first I thought it was cause I spent a few hours in a parking lot and the dirt so the oil was getting too hot, but it's been happening on longer rides too. I have regular Rotella 15w-40 in there (manual calls for 20w-40). Should I step up to a higher grade of oil (T6, AMSoil or whatever) or should I up the weight to a 50. It is pretty hot where I am and I'm guessing the skidplate blocking air doesn't help either. I just hope I'm not losing a gear. 
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Jul 31, 2012 11:48
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n8r posted:Don't listen to any of these guys if you have wiseco pistons (you probably don't). OEM pistons till you hit the bore limit 4 lyfe. On the DRZ, I start it with full choke, put my helmet and gloves on, then turn the choke off and ride. On the two strokes, I choke them till they can rev cleanly (usually less than 30 seconds), and I take off. If your bike really needs minutes upon minutes of choke to run right, its time to look into carburetion issues.
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Jul 31, 2012 14:58
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On these warm days, my bike will start on the first or second kick with the choke open and the first kick with it closed. And that's from cold; with the engine hot it starts on one kick regardless of choke position. After about 10 seconds of idling with the choke on, it starts to bog and runs better if I open it up again. Accelerating with the choke on feels like riding through mud. Does this mean I'm running too rich, or is that all within the normal range? Basically the choke for me works as an optional "make sure you start it on the first kick like a badass" lever, not anything critical to engine operation.
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Jul 31, 2012 15:11
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n8r posted:Don't listen to any of these guys if you have wiseco pistons (you probably don't). oh god this scares me. you mean the lack of warming up or the bumpstarting?
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Jul 31, 2012 15:26
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:48 |
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So stupid question time; I cleaned my bike for the first time last night and well, soap and water don't really cut some of the tougher bugs / chain splatter. What are you guys using and any old wives tricks I can use to save some money?  Also pro-tip; going for a "quick ride" to dry out the nooks and crannies at twilight results in the bike just getting lightly bug splattered all over again. D'oh!
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Jul 31, 2012 16:28
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