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stabbington posted:End verdict: Useless for models unless you want them to look like they've been melted in an oven such that all the edges are rounded and details have started to vanish, along with probable longstanding damage to their integrity from absorbed acetone working to dissolve some of their internal structure. Just chuck 'em in a freezer. If you've got the time, I've always noticed that the plastic minis I soak in Super Clean for a long time tend to come out with all their bonds broken pretty handily. I'm not sure if it's something unique to Super Clean (because I've never been patient enough to try Simple Green for very long) or if something like soaking in water would also work.
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Jul 30, 2012 13:53
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Asphyxious posted:luckily height in Warmachine/Hordes is calculated by base size, not by the literal height of the model. Huh. Another reason to get into Warmahordes I guess.
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Jul 30, 2012 14:38
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Not a viking posted:Huh. Another reason to get into Warmahordes I guess. Since I'm interested in Warmachine, what is the advantage of figuring height by base size? I would think going by actual model size/height would be the natural thing to do.
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Jul 30, 2012 15:06
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krushgroove posted:Since I'm interested in Warmachine, what is the advantage of figuring height by base size? I would think going by actual model size/height would be the natural thing to do. Its natural until you convert a model, he has a huge backbanner, etc. Now your cool looking model is a bullet magnet. Or you go the other way, which some terrible wh40k players take advantage of, which is making your vehicles smaller etc. WM/H uses a volume system, so youre basically a cylinder, the width of your base and a pre-determined height.
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Jul 30, 2012 15:08
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OIC. I would hope I never play with a jerk who thinks that hitting a spike or a banner actually hits the bulk of my walker/tank/whatever. But from my understanding, Warmachine is angled at touraments more than the base 40K rules?
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Jul 30, 2012 15:19
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Does that rule mean that all 30 mm base models are exactly the same height, regardless whether they're tall and lanky creatures or some short goblins or whatever? VVVV:  . I understand it makes for smoother play, especially in tournaments, but it's still :psuduck:
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jul 30, 2012 |
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Jul 30, 2012 15:22
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Pierzak posted:Does that rule mean that all 30 mm base models are exactly the same height, regardless whether they're tall and lanky creatures or some short goblins or whatever? Correct.
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Jul 30, 2012 15:34
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Yup. For the purposes of LoS, all figures on a 30mm are counted as being a cylinder the width of their base and 1.75", 40mm is 2.25" tall, 50mm 2.75" tall, regardless of the type of model, pose, banner, faction, what ever. The bigger bases (like battle engines and colossals) get bigger, of course, but I don't have those rules. It's pretty fair way of doing it, as, say, a Grundback gunner light jack (battle robot) is on a medium base, but is only about an inch tall, while a Khador Kovnic (elite commander model in superheavy armor) with a banner is running about 4.5 inches. Under the LoS rule, they occupy the exact same space. The only conundrum is then how to attach the kovnic banner so that the fucker doesn't keep falling off in a stiff breeze.
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Jul 30, 2012 15:40
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If I recall correctly, Battle Engines and Colossals are considered to be so big that you can't block line of sight to them. So their rules-height doesn't really have a factor. Basically they are so huge that they will always loom over trees/clouds/etc and be able to be seen and shot at. Warmachine's system can seem a little counter-intuitive for some people (But my dwarfs are short, why aren't they easier to hide?!) but it really makes everything so much easier, especially when you think about it and realise that this means that the game designers are not stuck trying to factor in how 'hideable' dwarfs are into their points costs, and the sculptors don't have to worry about making big, dramatic figures that are easier to see and kill in the game.
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Jul 30, 2012 16:24
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OK, I guess that makes sense in a gamer sort of sense. New question: UK painters: where do you get your cheap black spray primer? Went to Halford's today only to find out they don't carry it any more, not even on their website. I got the red/rust primer for my Chaos Space Marines, but other than that they just have grey and white.
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Jul 30, 2012 17:01
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krushgroove posted:OK, I guess that makes sense in a gamer sort of sense. Oh god what? I'm going to have to stock up on grey primer just in case (which has fantastic coverage and is a great alternative to black, just saying). My friend generally orders Army Painter from https://www.waylandgames.co.uk although I hear from this thread that https://www.totalwargamer.co.uk is better.
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Jul 30, 2012 20:21
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krushgroove posted:OK, I guess that makes sense in a gamer sort of sense. Yeah, I use army painter primer. You can get it at maelstrom or firestorm games. It isn't the cheapest but it's very good.
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Jul 30, 2012 20:39
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I get mine from Homebase - PlastiKote - it's grey, but I'm reasonably sure they also do a black and a white.
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Jul 30, 2012 20:42
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I'll have to check (and find a nearby) Homebase, but my local DIY shop (a well-stocked family place) doesn't have black spray primer either - it's like it's just fallen off the face of the earth! I've ordered a couple of cans of Army Painter for £7.95 a can and free shipping from this place: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260569624207 I've become a regular customer of theirs, they even took a quid off a Chaos Terminator Lord I bought from them today (had to ask while making an offer, but still!). My Khorne Berzerkers, the ones that just got stripped, are going to get sprayed with Halford's red primer, so we'll see how that goes. From that same local DIY shop I got a massive bag of kiln-dried sand...whatever the hell am I going to do with about 20 pounds of sand?! That's basing, for, like, a million little dudes. e: Finally am nearly done with my Genestealers, just need to lacquer them (planning to do gloss then flat for durability) and decide what to paint the rims of the bases:  Any suggestions?  Any other input? These are my first models I've painted in at least 6-7 years, but I was really painting a lot about 9-10 years ago. I was going for 'tabletop quality' on these so I didn't go crazy. I did try a couple of layers of drybrushing (first pass was with original base color, second pass with base color + white) but I think I could have just done one pass and gotten 90% the same effect. I love the effect the wash gave the models, I just wish I'd noticed the pooling before they dried. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jul 30, 2012 |
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Jul 30, 2012 21:02
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I've got a set of W&N Series 7 Miniature brushes that I don't need, if anyone is interested. I use and prefer the regular Series 7 brushes, but I don't want these to rot in a drawer somewhere. They are unused and still have the protectors over the bristles. I'll check for sure, but I think they are the following sizes: 3/0, 2/0, 0, 1, 2. I'm asking $50, plus shipping to where ever you are (First Class within the US will probably cost around $3.) EDIT: Brushes sold. Thanks for playing! berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jul 31, 2012 |
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Jul 30, 2012 21:52
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I finally got around to making a wet palette today after months of procrastinating, and I wish someone had forced me to do it earlier. It's awesome, and I highly recommend that anyone else who doesn't have one makes one. They are pence to make, there's really no excuse.
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Jul 30, 2012 23:35
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Posting this for my friend who is a super slow painter. I cannot argue with the results. 
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Jul 31, 2012 00:16
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That looks downright radioactive.
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Jul 31, 2012 00:25
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The last decade has been especially hard on Lisa Frank.
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Jul 31, 2012 01:14
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Captain Invictus posted:The last decade has been especially hard on Lisa Frank. Indeed: http://gawker.com/5930107/lisa-fran...-makes-stickers
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Jul 31, 2012 01:39
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berzerkmonkey posted:I've got a set of W&N Series 7 Miniature brushes that I don't need... Email sent!
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Jul 31, 2012 04:40
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Two questions for the miniature thread: 1. gently caress Citadel Plastic Glue. The stupid nozzle always clogs up and now I can't even clear out the clog with a thin needle. I really like that kind of nozzle though. Can someone recommend the best plastic glue, both in quality and ease of application? 2. I want to drill the barrel of my Dreadnought's multi-melta. What size drill bit would be the best for it?
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Jul 31, 2012 05:03
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unpurposed posted:Two questions for the miniature thread: 1. All glues I have ever used will clog. The best advice is to clean the tip after every usage. Also clean the nozzle on your glue to prevent it from clogging.  2. A hobby knife may do. MMs are pretty beefy. 3. Wuuuudddduuup:                    
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Jul 31, 2012 05:19
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Jesus. I was going to make a bacon joke until I saw Morvahna's cloak. 
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Jul 31, 2012 06:51
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And I was just feeling good about managing to do a simple paint-job on my Freikorps Librarian without loving anything up too badly. I'm liable to screw up with the Nuln Oil anyway still 
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Jul 31, 2012 07:03
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If your plastic glue clogs and is like mine with a metal nozzle you can just heat the metal with a lighter to unclog it.
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Jul 31, 2012 07:52
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!amicable posted:Best Circle. I love your Circle scheme so much. Please paint a Witch Doctor tia.
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Jul 31, 2012 10:54
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The Impaler posted:Email sent! unpurposed posted:Two questions for the miniature thread: Assuming you're not referring to the super glue, I use Testors. You can either use the stuff that comes in a glass bottle and has a brush (the only problem is that you don't get a super-fine application) or the stuff that comes in the square bottle with the long neck (http://www.tcpglobal.com/AirbrushDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=TES+3527C&gclid=CJvOqs_Yw7ECFQff4AodcwEAzg). The long-neck version used to come with a couple little needles to punch the glue out if it ever got clogged, but I never really had an issue with it.
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Jul 31, 2012 11:22
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Has anyone here used the Citadel spray gun? I've got 5 Devilfish/HH chassis to paint, but don't really want to invest too much into something I'll probably use only 5 or 6 times. Or should I just stick to a tank brush?
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Jul 31, 2012 12:40
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ijyt posted:Has anyone here used the Citadel spray gun? I've got 5 Devilfish/HH chassis to paint, but don't really want to invest too much into something I'll probably use only 5 or 6 times. If you're in the US, spend a few bucks and get an airbrush and compressor from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html). All told, you'll spend under $100 and have less hassle than using propellant cans - "Oh, you're halfway through painting that tank? Too bad, because now you have no pressure and you have to let your propellant warm up!" EDIT: Alright, you're in the UK. I'd still recommend picking up an airbrush and compressor. It will still be more than worth the money. Plus, if you practice, you can do a lot more than just basecoating with the thing. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Jul 31, 2012 |
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Jul 31, 2012 13:26
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drat, that Circle stuff is rad.
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Jul 31, 2012 13:30
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How is the Harbor Freight compressor? If I want to buy a better airbrush is it still worth getting the package deal for the cheap compressor?
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Jul 31, 2012 14:20
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Harbor freight is a good starter set, but I had two issues with it: 1) Compressor doesn't have a pressure regulator. When doing something besides base coating you are going to want to work at lower PSI. You can buy a regulator and hook it up however, so not a big deal. 2) Siphon feed. I don't like them, but that's personal preference. I got a Paasche Talon for Chrsitmas last year, so that's not an issue for me anymore.
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Jul 31, 2012 14:30
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unpurposed posted:Two questions for the miniature thread: I use these so if they are hopelessly clogged I can toss the bottle and use a new one.
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Jul 31, 2012 15:11
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ijyt posted:Has anyone here used the Citadel spray gun? True story: the Citadel spray gun is utter poo poo. It's the crappiest design for an airbrush made by a company that clearly doesn't know how an airbrush should be designed. It's an external mix airbrush, producing fuzzy, grainy layers on your models that you'll quickly grow to hate. It's also siphon-fed. No so much of a problem, but the airbrush relies on a vacuum to get paint out of the reservoir, which means running low on propellant means you aren't getting any paint out. It's also single-action, meaning that you pull the trigger and you get paint and airflow, neither of which you can control. All these crappy things combined make a crappy airbrush, but wait, there's more! Using propellent cans is not only stupid, it's dangerous to your health. Additionally, you'll be really upset when you are spending money on what is essentially canned air over and over and over. And now, the true horror of the Citadel spray gun: crappy plastic parts means that its not going to hold up to use for very long. I've personally witnessed a spray gun that had paint seep out from the seam of the outer shell, which means the brush's mechanisms were leaking so bad that they were actually spraying paint all over the inside of the airbrush as well. tl;dr: If you don't want to spend the money on a proper airbrush setup (which as stated is about $100.00 USD at the minimum), stick with a wide brush. If you feel like you'll use it a lot, trust me, the investment is worth it every single time.
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Jul 31, 2012 16:31
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unpurposed posted:
http://www.testors.com/product/136942/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic I have used this stuff since day one and have never used anything else. It has a super small nozzle so you can put small amounts on and comes with a thin piece of wire to clean it out. Pretty much every model hobby store I have gone to recommends it. Edit>> It may cause cancer or birth defects, but only if you're in the state of California.
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Jul 31, 2012 16:32
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Khorne Flakes posted:http://www.testors.com/product/136942/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic Came to post this, stuff owns.
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Jul 31, 2012 16:35
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Sole.Sushi posted:True story: the Citadel spray gun is utter poo poo. It's the crappiest design for an airbrush made by a company that clearly doesn't know how an airbrush should be designed. Truth. In a game like 40k where you're painting vehicles for about every 10-20 dudes in your army, unless your primer color can double as your basecoat for the majority of your vehicle, it's worth it to get an airbrush.
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Jul 31, 2012 16:43
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^^^ I'm glad my Chaos marines are going to be mostly red, was so happy to get generic red primer from the car parts store! I still have my OG bottle of Testor's glue in the same bottle design as that, I love that a) it smells like oranges and b) you can hold a lighter underneath the nozzle to burn off any dried glue inside it. As for CA glue, every bottle of super glue I've ever had will clog up no matter what, so I just went to the £/$ shop to get whatever they had, I found a bottle with a huge screw-off cap and I dip a toothpick in it to apply glue. I tend to distrust CA glue from my RC racing days, so I use Green Stuff now to hold things together if it's not styrene. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jul 31, 2012 |
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Jul 31, 2012 16:43
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Looking at various UK stores, an airbrush set up seems far too expensive for me and I don't have much space to begin with either. I think I'll look for a spray/primer close enough to Straken Green, or just go with the thin layer route.
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Jul 31, 2012 17:16
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