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They have a new can label now. As long as it says dullcote you should be good to go.
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Aug 1, 2012 21:50
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I feel like it needs a little something to make it pop more but I'm not sure what. Any ideas goons? 
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Aug 1, 2012 21:54
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One extra layer of highlights for that extra pop? It's looking great though.
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Aug 1, 2012 22:01
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French Foot Artillery battery (18mm, again for Napoleon at War).  Christ, I need a decent camera. Also, I haven't put grass tufts on the bases yet.
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Aug 1, 2012 22:02
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Anyone have any idea the largest caliber artillery used in WW2 is? I am still hunting for potential Artillery pieces for my DKoK but the 105mm 1/35 scale artillery pieces still don't have cannons that seem large enough. I found some 155mm stuff but its modern day looking.
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Aug 1, 2012 22:14
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Sole.Sushi posted:Battle for Blue Kool-Aid midge posted:This is what I came up with (...did it again since Reaper doesn't seem to cookie cart info) BadLlama posted:Anyone have any idea the largest caliber artillery used in WW2 is? 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 22:42
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ijyt posted:Shouldn't it be on the can? Different can. It's got a blue label now and says "spray lacquer" or something on the front, but the tag on the cap will say dullcote.
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Aug 1, 2012 22:46
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BadLlama posted:Anyone have any idea the largest caliber artillery used in WW2 is? I am still hunting for potential Artillery pieces for my DKoK but the 105mm 1/35 scale artillery pieces still don't have cannons that seem large enough. I found some 155mm stuff but its modern day looking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxuW8gG8Hfg http://user.mc.net/hawk/biggun.htm (honest, this is an actual serious link, don't let 'Hawk Biggun' fool you!) You did ask for the biggest artillery  You can get barrel bits from places like this: http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&cat=c_bm&sub=35B How about : http://www.rbmodel.com/picture.php?dir=35B91 I have no idea what the plastic kit is that's attached to that monster, but the site does allsorts of different scales, so perhaps you can get the look you want in a bigger scale?
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Aug 1, 2012 22:48
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BadLlama posted:Anyone have any idea the largest caliber artillery used in WW2 is? I am still hunting for potential Artillery pieces for my DKoK but the 105mm 1/35 scale artillery pieces still don't have cannons that seem large enough. I found some 155mm stuff but its modern day looking. If you're meaning self-propelled rather than just some kind of field gun, a Sturer Emil might be suitable? There's a 1/35 Trumpeter kit available. Here are a couply of hasty photos of it with a possibly regrettable Stug IV/Hellhound and a Vindicator as well as a CSM for scale. The hull of the Sturer Emil is 8" long in 1/35, and it's 11" from the rear of the vehicle to the end of the gun barrel. It's big.   Edit: A Sturmtiger has a 380mm gun so might have just enough gun? Danger - Octopus! fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 22:53
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^^^ Alright that may be a little too big. I think I have settled on this guy, http://www.megahobby.com/m-59155mmcannonlongtom1-35afvclub.aspx Just have to add some shield off a basilisk kit and maybe swap out the wheels if I am feeling up to it. Not looking for self propelled stuff, need field artillery for Death Korps army list I am making. I do like your stug conversion I am thinking of a way to get it in my army, was thinking either a hell hound or a thunderer siege tank. http://www.megahobby.com/sturmtiger38cmrw61aufsturmmorsertigertank1-48afvclub.aspx What do you now they have a Sturmtiger right here, gonna write this guy down as a possibility for a thunderer siege tank conversion. Danger - Octopus! posted:There's a guide, somewhere on the Warseer forums from a few years ago I think, to making a kind of weird Stug-looking tank by reversing the hull of a Leman Russ and attaching the main gun barrel to the front of the hull. I remember liking it at the time. http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?29192-StuG-Russ-Conversion-Guide!-%28pic-heavy%29 This guide? Its really an awesome conversion. BadLlama fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 22:56
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There's a guide, somewhere on the Warseer forums from a few years ago I think, to making a kind of weird Stug-looking tank by reversing the hull of a Leman Russ and attaching the main gun barrel to the front of the hull. I remember liking it at the time. That Long Tom is pretty huge. I look forward to seeing the results. DKoK are great, but pricey  I would love an army of them.
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Aug 1, 2012 23:02
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The new GW washes are superior in every way to the old ones. Just realized this since I hadnt really had a chance to use them til this week.
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Aug 2, 2012 00:26
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PaintVagrant posted:The new GW washes are superior in every way to the old ones. Just realized this since I hadnt really had a chance to use them til this week. I'd let Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil do terrible things to me. Terrible things.
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Aug 2, 2012 00:35
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Pierzak posted:Battle for the Dildo-Bong is more like it. The dildo-bongiest. Finished up some objective markers. 
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Aug 2, 2012 01:01
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PaintVagrant posted:The new GW washes are superior in every way to the old ones. Just realized this since I hadnt really had a chance to use them til this week.
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Aug 2, 2012 01:25
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PaintVagrant posted:The new GW washes are superior in every way to the old ones. Just realized this since I hadnt really had a chance to use them til this week. I like them both for different reasons. The new ones have better control, but the old ones pool really naturally and heavily.
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Aug 2, 2012 01:39
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^^^^ Lhamian Medium is a bit of a mystery. The only official GW use I've seen for it is to make transfers blend in with the paint job (a task done infinitely better by micro-set/micro-sol). I've used it to thin paints a bit, and I'm guessing it's a transparent glaze medium judging by how it behaves. Pilgrimski posted:You did ask for the biggest artillery Ahh, the Gustav. The company that made this behemoth is still around today and still make things that inspire fear in Goons.
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Aug 2, 2012 01:42
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Lahmian medium is a matte acrylic pigmentless medium. Basically paint without the colour in them. Basically you paint it over the top of 'ardcoat and other glossy surfaces (transfers) to get a matte finish.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:22
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So it's basically a $4 12ml bottle of acrylic floor polish?
Silhouette fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 02:39
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That mixed with matte medium from the art store, it sounds like.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:45
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Flipswitch posted:One extra layer of highlights for that extra pop? It's looking great though. Did that, now very pleased! Thanks!
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Aug 2, 2012 02:51
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Silhouette posted:So it's basically a $4 12ml bottle of acrylic floor polish? 120ml costs $4.25 at pretty much any art store.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:57
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Manifest posted:Different can. It's got a blue label now and says "spray lacquer" or something on the front, but the tag on the cap will say dullcote. Thanks, that's what mine said. Just "Spray lacquer" on the can (for both gloss and dull) and a sticker on the cap that said which. Your labeling is dumb, Testors. 
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Aug 2, 2012 03:26
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For a company based out of Rockford IL, I'm surprised they didn't start getting stupid sooner. loving city "spent" $48 Mil on a drat round-a-bout, which is literally in the middle of nowhere, and has seen more accidents than when it was just a street light.
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Aug 2, 2012 03:52
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Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up. gently caress Finecast.
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Aug 2, 2012 04:53
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Cross-post/asking! Hey goons, does anyone know about this OzHammer website? They say they sell to Australia and New Zealand from the UK, at UK prices but I'm dubious. Has anyone ordered from them before?
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Aug 2, 2012 05:14
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up. Post a picture so that we may laugh at the folly of Finecast.
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Aug 2, 2012 05:26
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up. I've had that! The first Isabella Von Carstein I opened was hollow.
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Aug 2, 2012 05:51
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I'm considering changing the gold recipe I use in my Space Wolves (Warplock Bronze -> Agrax Earthshade -> Gehenna Gold) since it's not quite the same as the old gold look, and was considering something akin to what's going on with Bjorn here, with a basecoat of Warplock Bronze, wash with a light blue color, then layer back on the bronze for a verdigris effect. Anyone here have experience painting a verdigris effect that have some tips for me? 
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Aug 2, 2012 05:52
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Pulled my first five test hormagaunts out of the vat today and went to work with a toothbrush taking off the paint. It worked pretty well all up, the fake snow stuff on the base was a bit of work. The vast majority of paint is gone but there is still a bit of colour in the harder to reach places like underneath the chest clawy type things. There isn't too much as the original owner painted nice and watered down to begin with, so I'm thinking of just spraying over once they dry out with my primer. I don't really want to be spending more than 20 minutes per five models as I have about 60 gants to do. Are there problems I need to look put for other than losing detail?(I washed them thoroughly with water before setting to dry)
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Aug 2, 2012 07:10
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You could always use 1/48-1/35 scale German 88's as field artillery. They'd scale up nicely next to your guys.BadLlama posted:^^^
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Aug 2, 2012 08:01
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Irate Tree posted:Cross-post/asking! I can't imagine them staying in business long, once gw gets wind of it. Which sucks, because id rather not have to order from ebay all the time.
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Aug 2, 2012 08:17
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MonsterUnderYourBed posted:Are there problems I need to look put for other than losing detail? Unless it's really, really heavily caked in there, the level of detail you will lose is pretty low. Once they are absolutely dry, putting a primer layer over it will make it seem like nothing happened at all.
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Aug 2, 2012 09:12
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bhsman posted:Anyone here have experience painting a verdigris effect that have some tips for me? I talked a bit about verdigris in a blog post, but the most simple way to do it is thin washes of a blue/green (I forget what the new Citadel color is called but there's one that's perfect)
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Aug 2, 2012 09:22
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bhsman posted:Anyone here have experience painting a verdigris effect that have some tips for me? There's a little metals section in this old WD masterclass article that shows a bit of verdigris: http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m220143a_Ork_Warboss_Painting_Masterclass It's pretty much as Gravitas said though, just wash some turquoise into the recesses.
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Aug 2, 2012 10:24
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Cross postin'.   Click for full size  I may go back at some point and do more highlights, maybe add some dead grass to the bases, but for now I'm happy with them. All the arms are magnetised too, because you can never have enough magnets! Any suggestions on what else could be done to improve them?
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Aug 2, 2012 14:10
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up. Haha, holy poo poo.
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Aug 2, 2012 15:09
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Well this is a new one on me. For the first time in almost twenty years (on and off) of this hobby I've just had a model start to split in two along the mould line during clean up.
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Aug 2, 2012 15:59
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The Dark Project posted:You could always use 1/48-1/35 scale German 88's as field artillery. They'd scale up nicely next to your guys. I don't think 1/48 Fits the scale properly for huge gently caress off artillery. 1/35 88's do look pretty cool but even then not sure how well they fit the huge artillery category. Wish these website would put 28mm figures next to everything ^_^
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Aug 2, 2012 16:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:I really have to wonder what their process is for casting these models. I don't think you can get a proper resin cast without a vacuum chamber due to the bubbles created in the mixing process. GW has got to be re-purposing their spin-casting tech for Finecast and it just ain't working. That has to be what it is, because it's the only thing that could explain how I'd get an isabella von carstein that was essentially hollow, even in the sprue.
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Aug 2, 2012 16:55
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