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Saga posted:I have tested my oil on a dyno and can confirm that you should definitely use oil in a liquid state. Frozen oil simply is not as good, as my extensive racing experience proves. What about the smell of the oil goddamnit. 
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Aug 1, 2012 15:02
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Blood is acceptable, in fact some manufacturers specify it. My KTM for example requires the blood of only orange animals, like clown fish, tropical birds or some rare poisonous frogs. Unicorn blood is also backwards compatible because it contains all the colours of the rainbow (and because of that is compatible with all manufacturer colour specified animal bloods).
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Aug 1, 2012 15:07
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Whelp, sorry I asked o.0 I've never had a problem letting my old Hondas high-idle for a couple minutes, followed by an easy run around the neighborhood before taking off on a ride. I'm going to stick to that procedure, forged pistons or not.
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Aug 1, 2012 15:13
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Z3n posted:What about the smell of the oil goddamnit. Ipone strawberry bubblegum scented for two strokes. If you have wiseco pistons, add 2ml/l of Drakkar Noir. e: I though unicorn blood was OK for KTMs because like the contents of the Powerparts catalogue, it's eye wateringly expensive and its very existence seems laughably improbable. 
Saga fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 15:15
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^^ The only thing I miss about my KTM is milking unicorns to keep it running ^^^GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Whelp, sorry I asked o.0 Why would you be sorry? We're learning so much together! 
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Aug 1, 2012 15:24
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Saga posted:Ipone strawberry bubblegum scented for two strokes. If you have wiseco pistons, add 2ml/l of Drakkar Noir. I really miss the smell of Castor 927 in my KX250. It just smelled so loving good.
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Aug 1, 2012 15:26
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I picked up a nail in my only-5000-miles-old Pilot Road 2, and plugged it with one of those gummy things. It seems to be holding just fine - how long can I drive on it with the plug?
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Aug 1, 2012 15:34
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I picked up a nail in my only-5000-miles-old Pilot Road 2, and plugged it with one of those gummy things. It seems to be holding just fine - how long can I drive on it with the plug? Go get an actual motorcycle plug put in (the mushroom kind) from the inside and you don't have to worry about it. I wouldn't trust that cheap kind for too long / at high speeds.
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Aug 1, 2012 15:36
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I picked up a nail in my only-5000-miles-old Pilot Road 2, and plugged it with one of those gummy things. It seems to be holding just fine - how long can I drive on it with the plug? I'd plug/patch from the inside. But anecdotally, I rode on a cheaply-plugged Metzeler tire for most of my Sturgis 2008 trip (2000mi or so) and had no issues before I sold the bike. I am pretty sure the current owner hasn't touched the tires either.
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Aug 1, 2012 15:51
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Z3n posted:^^ The only thing I miss about my KTM is milking unicorns to keep it running ^^^ All I learned is that I need to find some glorious pink oil. DEUCE SLUICE posted:I picked up a nail in my only-5000-miles-old Pilot Road 2, and plugged it with one of those gummy things. It seems to be holding just fine - how long can I drive on it with the plug? The plug will get you home but I'd consider patch/plug from inside or just replacing it if you're going to put any real miles on it. clutchpuck posted:I'd plug/patch from the inside. But anecdotally, I rode on a cheaply-plugged Metzeler tire for most of my Sturgis 2008 trip (2000mi or so) and had no issues before I sold the bike. I am pretty sure the current owner hasn't touched the tires either. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Aug 1, 2012 |
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Aug 1, 2012 15:59
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I've had it with my muffler. It's an aftermatket high pipe for a bandit 1200 and it prevents me from mounting bags. Can I just take it off and run straight pipe? There's no noise ordnance or inspection requirement, so unless it will damage the engine, I'm going to do it. What's this mystical backpressure, and do I need it?
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Aug 1, 2012 18:49
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Perhaps consider that laws aren't the only reason to run a muffler? Other people won't be as enamored with straight pipes as you will, and frankly I think you'll lose interest quickly. Find another muffler set up you can use with bags...
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Aug 1, 2012 19:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've had it with my muffler. It's an aftermatket high pipe for a bandit 1200 and it prevents me from mounting bags. Back pressure affects the airflow through your carbs/engine. If there is back pressure, that reduces the amount of airflow, because incoming air is restricted by the pressure created by the header. If the pipes are less restrictive, there is less backpressure, so more air can enter the combustion chamber. Thus, opening up the airflow at the exhaust end leads to more air in the AFR and can lean out the engine. As I understand it, exhaust changes to airflow are less severe than filter changes (e.g., pods or velocity stacks) but you may need to re-jet or otherwise make adjustments to the mixture settings to accommodate your switch to open pipes.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:06
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've had it with my muffler. It's an aftermatket high pipe for a bandit 1200 and it prevents me from mounting bags. Open headers rule I think you should go for it.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:24
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What the hell is the name of this trim piece? It is obviously cracked and I want to replace it, but I have no idea what to search for. Searching ebay for zx6r trim doesn't bring it up. Any idea? This is a 06 Ninja ZX6R.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:36
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Can I just take it off and run straight pipe? There's no noise ordnance or inspection requirement, so unless it will damage the engine, I'm going to do it. What's this mystical backpressure, and do I need it? Think of the muffler as the anus of your motorcycle. Some folks like to stretch it a bit to get stuff in and out faster. This can be highly pleasurable (so I am told officer)!  But(t)! A little backpressure is necessary to keep stuff in. If you take it too far and blow out your entire anus, woe betide you. Suddenly that opening is just far too big. Stuff will just be coming out everywhere all the time, and no one wants to see or hear that. Aside from n8r. Just imagine you pull up next to a convertible full of hawt gurls and grab a big handful, hoping to impress them with your huge, unrestricted bore. Then imagine them turning away in disgust and revulsion and calling the police! Soon you will be shunned by right-thinking people and will begin to be embarrassed and ashamed of your impossible to ignore, gaping opening. There will be no place for you in society, your reclusive existence lived behind drawn curtains, putting videos of your giant pipe on the internet, only to be mocked by goons of Somethingawful.com. And finally you will cry to the heavens, "Oh god. God! What have I done!"  Yeah so basically you will probably get pretty tired of deafening yourself and anyone you do come across will hate you. Trip Daddy X - infill panel? Or just try a search with the year, model and generic bodywork synonyms.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:46
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Sites like bikebandit can be good for identifying that kind of stuff. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2006-kawasaki-ninja-zx-6r-zx636c/o/m149098#sch436790 In your case I think it's 55028B: COWLING,INNER,RH
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Aug 1, 2012 19:47
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nsaP posted:Sites like bikebandit can be good for identifying that kind of stuff. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2006-kawasaki-ninja-zx-6r-zx636c/o/m149098#sch436790 There it is! Thanks!
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Aug 1, 2012 19:55
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You can't also forget that you need the exhaust to be a certain length as well. If you look at some pics of GP bikes they do some insane poo poo to get the headers a certain length. I was making a non seriouspost telling you to run open headers. If you do so your bike will run like poo poo and you'll ruin your hearing and piss people off.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:56
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Saga posted:And finally you will cry to the heavens, "Oh god. God! What have I done!" This is the best analogy I have ever heard.
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Aug 1, 2012 19:59
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is the best analogy I have ever heard. I see what you did there. Still dumbstruck by the awesome use of ~that image~ to address the problems of straight pipes.
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Aug 1, 2012 20:21
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n8r posted:You can't also forget that you need the exhaust to be a certain length as well. If you look at some pics of GP bikes they do some insane poo poo to get the headers a certain length. I was making a non seriouspost telling you to run open headers. If you do so your bike will run like poo poo and you'll ruin your hearing and piss people off.  Not just for looks
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Aug 1, 2012 20:26
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Saga posted:Think of the muffler as the anus of your motorcycle. Some folks like to stretch it a bit to get stuff in and out faster. This can be highly pleasurable (so I am told officer)! I love you.
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Aug 1, 2012 21:08
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I understand it's going to be loud and annoying. I'm trying to find stock pipes that aren't too expensive. This temporary fix is approximately free, so unless it's going to cause an exhaust valve to catch fire or something.... I'm taking the slip-on part of exhaust off and cutting the riser pipe about 4" lower, at an angle to keep rain out. When I had the slipon off today, It's basically a 4" piece of carbon fiber pipe with a 2.5" piece of metal mesh in the middle, welded to endcaps that are the exhaust diameter. I'm not confident that there's a lot of restriction going on there NOW.
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Aug 2, 2012 00:36
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Thanks for the advice a couple of pages back, guys. I found a nice non-motorway route to ride my bike home. I couldn't get above 60mph because it was horribly windy and rainy but I had a lovely ride. I even had to switch to the reserve tank, which was kind of exciting (I know, it's all in the same tank...). I'm now riding to work daily and loving it. Of course I have a ton to learn, but I'm trying to be as receptive as possible to experience and advice. Today I dodged a suicidal pheasant on a narrow back road. I knew that swerving practice would come in handy! I'm not sure how wise it is to ask given the end of the last page, but... how long should I warm my bike up for? In general I start it with the choke fully closed, idle it for a minute or so until it runs steadily, and then open the choke and ride away. Am I doing it right?
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Aug 2, 2012 20:27
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When I got my bike titled in my current state (PA) I obviously had to give the mileage and I didn't have the exact number. They told me to guess, and I said 21,000. Now I'm trying to sell it and the actual mileage is actually closer to 20.5k. Is this going to bite me in the rear end? When I sign the title over should I put the actual mileage or is that going to set off a bunch of red flags in PennDOT's system?
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Aug 2, 2012 20:35
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Is a 500CC Ninja too much for a first bike? I just got my learner's license and my lessons start on the 15th, and I'm looking into buying my first bike soon. My ideal bike would be a Ninja 250R or a CBR250R, but the vast majority of the bikes listed for sale are 500s. Is the difference really substantial?
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Aug 2, 2012 21:18
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Grimes posted:Is a 500CC Ninja too much for a first bike? I just got my learner's license and my lessons start on the 15th, and I'm looking into buying my first bike soon. My ideal bike would be a Ninja 250R or a CBR250R, but the vast majority of the bikes listed for sale are 500s. Is the difference really substantial? A 500CC Ninja makes a fine starting bike. The difference isn't as substantial as some people will make it out to be. They are highly forgiving of mistakes and will not kill you with the slightest error. Against popular opinion here, I actually recommend 500's over 250's as a starter bike.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:21
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Mouko posted:Thanks for the advice a couple of pages back, guys. Sounds about right to me - I mean you could probably get away with pulling away a bit quicker than that but you may as well use that time to get your lid and gloves on and give the bike a quick once-over.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:23
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NipplesTheCat posted:A 500CC Ninja makes a fine starting bike. The difference isn't as substantial as some people will make it out to be. They are highly forgiving of mistakes and will not kill you with the slightest error. Depends, but yeah I'd second that assuming you're getting training on a bike that sort of size, otherwise that period of recalibration of how far you can open the throttle etc can be pretty painful if you have to do it on literally your first ride on the road.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:24
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nm
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Aug 2, 2012 21:25
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Synonamess Botch posted:When I got my bike titled in my current state (PA) I obviously had to give the mileage and I didn't have the exact number. They told me to guess, and I said 21,000. Now I'm trying to sell it and the actual mileage is actually closer to 20.5k. Is this going to bite me in the rear end? When I sign the title over should I put the actual mileage or is that going to set off a bunch of red flags in PennDOT's system? Go take a scenic 500 mile ride?
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Aug 2, 2012 21:49
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Grimes posted:Is a 500CC Ninja too much for a first bike? I just got my learner's license and my lessons start on the 15th, and I'm looking into buying my first bike soon. My ideal bike would be a Ninja 250R or a CBR250R, but the vast majority of the bikes listed for sale are 500s. Is the difference really substantial? A 500 is fine. I started on a Ninja 650, and I'd also recommend it as a starting bike. The Ninja 500/650 are pretty similar to another perennial starter-bike favorite: the SV650. They're all beginner friendly and forgiving of newbie mistakes. I'd actually recommend either the 500 or the 650 over a 250, honestly. I've ridden a Ninja 250, and am very very glad I got the 650 instead. The very linear torque curve makes the throttle very predictable, and the much better low-mid end power is more enjoyable for both riding around town and for riding on the freeway. Neither the 500 or 650 are anywhere near a 600-class supersport in terms of power output or twitchiness, if that's what you're afraid of. Plus the 650 is EFI, screw carbs. Guinness fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 22:30
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Does anybody have any tips for removing bearings from wheels? I'm trying to get them out for powder coating and am having one hell of a time. The manual said to angle the inner piece and knock them out from the inside out, but I can't get enough of an edge to hit. We also tried pushing them all the way through, i.e. hitting one bearing to knock the opposite out, and it has moved like a millimeter at best. For reference this is a Ninja 500, if that makes any difference.
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Aug 2, 2012 22:49
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You can get a bearing puller for pretty cheap at Harbor Freight that should work fine once or twice. Other than that, I knocked my wheel bearings out the other day - used a screwdriver as a punch and whacked it with a hammer a few times and walked them out. Takes some patience to get it moving, and it was definitely a challenge to get a good enough edge to get a solid blow.
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Aug 2, 2012 22:55
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clutchpuck posted:You can get a bearing puller for pretty cheap at Harbor Freight that should work fine once or twice. Other than that, I knocked my wheel bearings out the other day - used a screwdriver as a punch and whacked it with a hammer a few times and walked them out. Takes some patience to get it moving, and it was definitely a challenge to get a good enough edge to get a solid blow. So were you striking the outside of the bearing to knock the opposite out, or were you going through the center and striking the inside of the bearing you were trying to knock out?
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Aug 2, 2012 23:02
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Oh sorry I should have been more clear, I knocked them out from behind. In doing so I did mangle the old bearings and wheel spacers but I came prepared with new ones.
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Aug 2, 2012 23:13
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I checked the manual again, apparently there is a circlip still in the middle behind one of the bearings.. I am a loving idiot. Hopefully pounding on that hasn't messed up the wheel, but that definitely explains why it's not budging. I'm heading over to Harbor Freight now to find that extractor.
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Aug 2, 2012 23:32
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NipplesTheCat posted:A 500CC Ninja makes a fine starting bike. The difference isn't as substantial as some people will make it out to be. They are highly forgiving of mistakes and will not kill you with the slightest error. I just bought a 2004 Ninja 500 as my first bike this last saturday! I learned on a Yamaha Seca II 600cc and a Suzuki GZ250, and I like the balance this bike offers. It's been incredibly forgiving, and I think that when I get fresh rubber on the bike it'll make it even more fun. It's powerful enough that I won't get bored, and if I really felt like it I could break all kinds of speed laws. (edit- riding like a dong is not something I plan on doing) I do have a different perspective than most riders, being 6'6" and 215lbs with a max deadlift equal to the wet weight of the bike means I can manhandle it very easily and I probably don't get the same oomph a smaller rider would get. I can also slow my bike down by at least 5mph on the freeway just by sitting straight upright. DJ_Ferret fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 00:28
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No one plans on riding like a dong
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Aug 3, 2012 00:56
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