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berzerkmonkey posted:I really have to wonder what their process is for casting these models. I don't think you can get a proper resin cast without a vacuum chamber due to the bubbles created in the mixing process. GW has got to be re-purposing their spin-casting tech for Finecast and it just ain't working. I remember an interview with the guy running Spartan games, who talked about the necessity of off-gassing the resin twice during the process to really get a high-quality result. Maybe they're just short-changing it.
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Aug 2, 2012 17:19
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Sykic posted:Cross postin'. They look nice, but maybe a very thinned wash of black ink, or just some blacklining between the silver and gold to make them more Grimdark (and add contrast).
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Aug 2, 2012 17:32
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berzerkmonkey posted:GW has got to be re-purposing their spin-casting tech for Finecast and it just ain't working. It's actually exactly what they are doing.
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Aug 2, 2012 18:11
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Sole.Sushi posted:It's actually exactly what they are doing. Holy poo poo this is pretty much the comedy gold of the year. No wonder finecast sucks so much compared to Spartan or Ultraforge or guys that actually know how to use resin.
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Aug 2, 2012 18:36
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The problem, chiefly, is that most resin cures far too quickly to hit every surface. GW has counteracted this significantly, likely by using "hour-cure" resins, but there's a problem with that still. Their blend of resin, which actually has plastic fibers in it as well, would likely clog the vents, channels and locks found in the spin-casters. Once one of those gets clogged, you have air bubbles, faulty castings, and so on. EDIT: a model splitting at the seam likely means that, sometime during the cure process, the spin mold became unbalanced (likely from clogged material not filling a whole side) and the mold opened up as a result.
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Aug 2, 2012 19:24
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Cross posting from the Warmahordes thread. Well I figured I would post some of my stuff that I finally painted on here. Not sure what to do with my hags base so if you guys have any ideas let me know. Also any tips about eyes would be great my sea witch looks pretty alright till I put eyes on her.  
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Aug 2, 2012 19:36
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Paint eyes first, then face. Easier that way by far. Also, if you have one, a micron pen for the pupils is fantastic. Alternately, paint entire eye black, then put off-white dots in the corners.
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Aug 2, 2012 19:48
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It's almost like there was a conversation like: "Welp, everyone else is moving to resin. Let's do it too! This will work with our existing equipment so we don't have to burden the shareholders, right?" "Ummm, I don..." "Great! You've got 20,000 gallons of resin on pallets in the warehouse. Get started!" (Jauntily walks off to tell shareholders everything is peachy.) Anyhoo, I think I'm going to get into Gorkamorka. Sadly, I'm not about to pay $27 for a Wartrak. Anyone ever scratchbuild one before? I was thinking of taking one of the old bikes and scratchbuilding a bed in back and adding some tracks from some Russian toy line called Robogear...
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Aug 2, 2012 19:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyhoo, I think I'm going to get into Gorkamorka. Sadly, I'm not about to pay $27 for a Wartrak. Anyone ever scratchbuild one before? I was thinking of taking one of the old bikes and scratchbuilding a bed in back and adding some tracks from some Russian toy line called Robogear... No idea if this will be cheaper for you, but this is what I would do if I wanted to make Gorkamorka stuff: Vehicles: http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6 Bits of Vehicles: http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25 There are LOADS of bits there, you could pretty much build any sort of crazyorkwagon you wanted. Orks: http://stores.ebay.com/Kromlech-Bits-and-Minis
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Aug 2, 2012 21:21
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How can I highlight Warplock Bronze. I've tried adding in silver and whatnot and I just get a generically lighter colour highlet, it doesn't look right at all. I can't work out what colours to add to it though.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:30
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I stopped painting bronze the day I discovered mithril silver + griffon sepia.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:34
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Lethemonster posted:How can I highlight Warplock Bronze. I've tried adding in silver and whatnot and I just get a generically lighter colour highlet, it doesn't look right at all. I can't work out what colours to add to it though. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/paintChart.jsp?catId=cat820002a&rootCatGameStyle= I've had good success following the guide here, and it shows that 1. Brass Scorpion and 2. Runelord Brass highlight that colour, in that order.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:35
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Got my Pale Blue VMA paint in. AIRBRUSHES RUUUUUUUUUUULE! Oh man, that was awesome. Thagrosh2 basecoated in a half hour. Jesus jumped up Christ and cried O Hosannah. Holy Heck wow. I'm in brush shock.
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Aug 2, 2012 21:39
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Sole.Sushi posted:The problem, chiefly, is that most resin cures far too quickly to hit every surface. GW has counteracted this significantly, likely by using "hour-cure" resins, but there's a problem with that still. Their blend of resin, which actually has plastic fibers in it as well, would likely clog the vents, channels and locks found in the spin-casters. Once one of those gets clogged, you have air bubbles, faulty castings, and so on. Given that I had to carve off a ~1mm thick section of flash coming from the mould line on that piece, that looks to be precisely what happened. Feeple posted:Got my Pale Blue VMA paint in. I'm still in brush shock after painting a sorcerer's head the other day. Don't really want to highlight or shade it because I'll inevitably ruin the effect I managed to get.
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Aug 2, 2012 22:15
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I've been fairly lucky with the finecast I ordered, other than the bent railguns that I fixed with hot water. Though I'll be damned if I order any more than I ever need to, primarily just the shield drone pack and the commander upgrade pack. Though I definitely prefer metal shield drone bits, far less clean up. And I was terrified that the commander weapons were going to snap on me or something when I was drilling them for magnetisation.
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Aug 2, 2012 23:22
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Sole.Sushi posted:The problem, chiefly, is that most resin cures far too quickly to hit every surface. GW has counteracted this significantly, likely by using "hour-cure" resins, but there's a problem with that still. Their blend of resin, which actually has plastic fibers in it as well, would likely clog the vents, channels and locks found in the spin-casters. Once one of those gets clogged, you have air bubbles, faulty castings, and so on. How do you know this? I'd never heard about the makeup of their resin, or even that they were spin casting at all.
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Aug 2, 2012 23:51
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Anyone have a link to a tutorial for, or at least a picture of, cool glass canopy effects? I just picked up a Stormraven from a client who glued the canopy down after priming.
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Aug 3, 2012 01:52
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Fix posted:How do you know this? I'd never heard about the makeup of their resin, or even that they were spin casting at all. I hate to pull the "I know someone in the industry" card, but I know someone in the industry. He used to work with GW and got a tour of their production site and their operations right when Finecast was being implemented. As for the resin itself, GW made mention when Finecast was rolling out that it was a special resin and plastic blend. I'm guessing that it's urethane resin, often described as liquid plastic, which can have plastic fibers in it. EDIT: I suppose it's possible (and likely) that the casting methods have changed with the newer models that were ever only made in Finecast, and if that is the case, I'm unaware of what techniques they could be using. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 02:01
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berzerkmonkey posted:
Doot doot doot click me dooty dooty doot
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Aug 3, 2012 03:42
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I'm going to be picking up supplies for my first round of painting models soon - Cygnar models from Warmachine. I've been thinking about an alternative color scheme to Cygnar's royal blue and gold, however. I'd like to have the primary color be a white tinged with blue, similar to the lightning in this picture: The secondary color would be sort of a bluish grey, evocative of storm clouds. Lightning + storm clouds seems like a nice alternative scheme for Cygnar. After talking with my brother, he thought Ceramite White and Celestra Grey with Drakenhof Blue would achieve the effect nicely, but I thought I'd ask in here to see if anyone has any alternative opinions on how to achieve what I want for my scheme.
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Aug 3, 2012 03:59
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Enchanted Blue (or any equivalent) + Menoth White Highlight. Work in successive steps and highlights to get that electric blue you are after. Easy-Mode: white + blue wash, layer white for highlighting.
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Aug 3, 2012 04:03
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Pyrolocutus posted:Ceramite White and Celestra Grey with Drakenhof Blue would achieve the effect nicely Disclaimer: All I said was that starting with the white and gray and washing/glazing blue would be how I would go about experimenting with it. I made no guarantees about "nicely." 
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Aug 3, 2012 04:45
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Did 5 Warriors in less than an hour. Forgot Necron Warriors are like the easiest thing to paint in all of GW's line. Still need to do the eyes and finish the base, but maybe I will finally have all of my infantry done in one out of 7+ armies I've owned in the past year. 
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Aug 3, 2012 06:06
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If I wanted to really darken a GW metallic, either Runelord Brass or Leadbelcher (Boltgun Metal) how would I go about this? Would I mix in a small amount of black, or repeated washes or...? What I want to do is find a easy way to paint a bunch of Necrons using a metallic and have it end up being considerably darker than either the boltgun or brass color (after I decide which to use). Almost cast iron dark is what I'm looking for.
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Aug 3, 2012 07:13
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Tequila Ranger posted:If I wanted to really darken a GW metallic, either Runelord Brass or Leadbelcher (Boltgun Metal) how would I go about this? Would I mix in a small amount of black, or repeated washes or...? Doing Leadbelcher + black will net you a wrought-iron look, a generally flat, dark metallic that may be what you are after. If you still want a lot of luster and shine, Leadbelcher + black washes is what you are after. Just keep adding layers until you are happy.
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Aug 3, 2012 07:15
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Sole.Sushi posted:Doing Leadbelcher + black will net you a wrought-iron look, a generally flat, dark metallic that may be what you are after. This is exactly what I'm after, thanks!
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Aug 3, 2012 07:27
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How good a match is Warplock Bronze for Tin Bitz?
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Aug 3, 2012 07:28
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MasterSlowPoke posted:How good a match is Warplock Bronze for Tin Bitz? Its ok. Warplock bronze has a purpley edge to it and it darker. Tbh I prefer the VGC tin colour as a replacement and use warplock bronze on other things.
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Aug 3, 2012 09:02
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Hey guys, check this dude out from Bane Legions! Tundaar, Skull Bearer of Baalor
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Aug 3, 2012 11:37
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I had actually seen the final product on The Waaagh!, but not the buildup - this is the model that turned me on to the Robogear treads. Thanks for this. EDIT: Oh poo poo! This is the guy who built the legendary Mr. Potatohead Stompa! berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 14:03
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Irate Tree posted:Hey guys, check this dude out from Bane Legions!
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Aug 3, 2012 14:40
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frest posted:the first titty miniature i saw made me roll my eyes, but whatever. then i got to the pole-dancing standard bearer. what the gently caress dude I love the little callouts they have about every aspect of the model. Somehow they missed "TIG OLE BITTIES" on both.
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Aug 3, 2012 14:43
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I tend to pass over those particular ones, to be honest. I mean, breasts on things don't bother me (they have beastmen and things with their junk hanging out, only seems fair) but yeah, those more recent ones are a disappointment. They were done by some dude (James van Schaik) who had a hand in Malifaux, i think? The minis he did there are fantastic but he must have had a serious brain-fart when he made the ones for Bane Legions. I don't want to inadvertently start an argument about sex and plastic mens/womens (I've seen how it goes on Dakka) but my stance is, as long as it's modeled well, executed well and it makes sense in what it's trying to portray, technical or fluff wise then I welcome it... Incidentally, I quite like the bizarre nature of Kingdom Death. Edit: Yet another new Bane Legion model! Chaagmuth The Jaw-Taker, Untain of the Gabrax Irate Tree fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Aug 3, 2012 |
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Aug 3, 2012 15:38
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Irate Tree posted:I don't want to inadvertently start an argument about sex and plastic mens/womens (I've seen how it goes on Dakka) but my stance is, as long as it's modeled well, executed well and it makes sense in what it's trying to portray, technical or fluff wise then I welcome it... Incidentally, I quite like the bizarre nature of Kingdom Death. The male or monstrous figures are modeled either muscular/sinister or heavily armored, and literally all of the female models for pages on that blog (possibly all the females in the entire range of miniatures?) have beach ball breasts and fight in g-strings. I mean, ignoring the issue of subjective taste, the anatomy is kind of questionable from a technical standpoint (unless this fantasy world also includes fantasy breast physics?) I always considered Kingdom Death to basically be the same province as anime figurines. People that are buying those models are doing it to indulge themselves, and that's whatever. This is supposedly for wargaming though right? and I'd be a little uncomfortable if some dude plunked that poo poo on the table in a gaming store frequented by minors. If this isn't a real game system and these are just "cool miniatures" then <shrug> it's just tacky. The idea of trying to sell this stuff side-by-side with pokemon cards, magic, D&D, and GW/PP stuff just rankles me because there's a bit of an unspoken rule that the content of that stuff is PG-13
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Aug 3, 2012 16:29
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frest posted:The idea of trying to sell this stuff side-by-side with pokemon cards, magic, D&D, and GW/PP stuff just rankles me because there's a bit of an unspoken rule that the content of that stuff is PG-13 Insofar as PG-13 means violent physical torture is cool as long as there are no nipples.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:34
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Fix posted:Insofar as PG-13 means violent physical torture is cool as long as there are no nipples. well duh, americans 
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Aug 3, 2012 16:36
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I am threatened by tiny metal tits.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:40
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Fix posted:Insofar as PG-13 means violent physical torture is cool as long as there are no nipples. Agree with Fix. Please, sir, in my opinion, we shouldn't worry 'but what about the children' in the painting and modeling thread. Someone will post that eldar diorama again or a nazi imperial guard/space marine force, and soon we'll be discussing the larger context of social issues in our hobby in a mature, and measured fashion, with complete respect for one another's opinions... ...just like always happens in these cases. And nobody wants that.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:42
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 I think it's tacky as hell, and a misogynistic/lovely model. You're right that the painting and modeling thread isn't the correct place to try and force a discussion of the bigger picture, so I'll just leave it at that.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:52
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I don't think it's misogynistic in the least, just a lovely model out of someone who has done much better. TCM, thanks for stepping in and keeping me from being stupid and speaking my opinions on something that doesn't bother me  And also: Fyrbrand posted:I am threatened by tiny metal tits. 
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Aug 3, 2012 17:04
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