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Power Steering was getting really obnoxious in the 2K 95. I checked that two weeks ago, why is it so dirty now? Pumped clean, filled with clean goo and just a touch of ATF. Will have to drive a few more miles and flush again. Much quieter, already.
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Aug 1, 2012 23:27
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:haha! Yeah my next question was going to be, "how the hell did you get it anywhere?" Drive it for a minute until it warms up, park it for a few hours to let it cool off?  When the serpentine belt parted ways a mile from home last spring I was able to get it home without critically overheating, though the temp gauge was about 2/3 up by then and the fans ran for a few minutes after parking.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:30
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I finally got a hold of a new AC belt and 20 minutes to finish off my 105k mile service on the Protege5 that I started a few weeks ago.  Replaced: - Timing belt system (tensioner, tensioner spring and idler pulley) - Water pump (the weep hole on the old one was so crudded up with old coolant it wasn't leaking after I bought the car >_<) - Cam and main oil seals - Drive belts - Spark plugs  I put 2,000 miles on it since the surgery and it's running well. Next up: replace loose and thumpy rear sway links, clean out ICV and EGR (idle dips a bit at idle on occasion and stumbles a little) and maybe replace springs and struts.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:39
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Installed a AFE intake on my BMW 330ci last Saturday, then had a catback sytem thrown on yesterday. Holy moly what a difference, its obviously louder but the car is a lot smoother going through the gears and theres maybe a bit more pickup. Also the slight VANOS rattle seems to have stopped for whatever reason.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:51
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Exhaust broke on the way home, right at the front of the cat. It's the stock exhaust from 1999, and being in Chicago, Ohio, and Michigan for the better part of it's life, it's pretty well entirely hosed. I keep running into one piece that I can't take off because of rust welded fasteners, so basically the entire thing is coming off from the head...and all the way back to the muffler. All of it is getting replaced except the header. One oxygen sensor post cat wouldn't come out, haven't tried the other yet. This sort of poo poo is miserable.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:52
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One of the first things I noticed when I got my truck is that when you sat in the driver's seat, it felt like your rear end sinks to the floor. So I ordered a new-to-me driver's seat cushion from a salvage yard, which arrived today. Here's how the driver's seat in the truck looked a couple hours ago:  Not that bad (on the surface at least), considering this truck has 175k on it. Cushion out. There were seven separate plugs that had to be disconnected for just the bottom cushion.  Seven! I still can't figure out what they are all for.  Now the problem becomes a bit more obvious. The previous owner was a bit of a  . The seat support grid was all broken and hanging down, the switch panel was cracked, the leather was torn, etc. And before anyone says anything, yes the carpet needs to be vacuumed. I had people over last weekend and they made a mess of it. New cushion installed. A perfect match.  The new seat had a broken seat back adjustment switch, so I had to transfer my old one over. As a bonus, the new seat also came with a non-cracked switch panel, which I used in place of my broken one. For shits n grins, I dissected the old seat after I had finished installing the new one. In addition to the obviously broken support grid, cracked switch panel, and torn leather, the steel frame of the seat was actually torn in multiple places, the foam was ripped, and the seat heating element had a burned through wire and associated scorch mark. Half of the mounts for the switch panel had snapped off, and had deck screws holding them on. I also found 53 gross looking cents while I had the seat out 
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Aug 2, 2012 03:01
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I finally got around to having the H-Sport sway bars that I ordered a month ago installed on my S4. I also got an alignment since I never got around to doing it after I got my H&R springs put on. This car is a blast to drive every time I get in it.
DropShadow fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 03:19
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 You mean I've been driving with a CEL since December for this?! Apparently it's not a vacuum hose, it's a high temp "back pressure hose" for the EGR transducer (apparently a vacuum modulator). It had been rubbing the injector harness. Hopefully the piece of scrap vacuum line I threw on will last long enough for me to see if the CEL comes back on, but I'm gonna need to track down some high temp hose. edit: just got off the phone with the dealer, they can order high temp hose for $3, I just have to cut it to the proper length. AutoZone has high temp hose for $10. The dealer has wound up being cheaper than parts stores on a lot of stuff  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 17:38
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some texas redneck posted:The dealer has wound up being cheaper than parts stores on a lot of stuff Every now and then the dealer will surprise you. I just bought 180lbs of R-134A from a Chevy dealer who had it cheaper than any of the parts houses. For content: I put in a new radiator, fan shroud, and air intake bellows on my 4runner. Hopefully that will handle the occasional hot flashes at idle and lean conditions. Considering changing out the car stereo as well. DrPain fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Aug 2, 2012 |
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Aug 2, 2012 19:07
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DrPain posted:Every now and then the dealer will surprise you. I just bought 180lbs of R-134A from a Chevy dealer who had it cheaper than any of the parts houses. No kidding. I compared prices of most of the EGR system between AutoZone and the dealer's website (courtesyparts.com).. the dealer was cheaper on every single part, usually by a huge amount. The EGR vacuum modulator shows $140 at AutoZone, $70 at the dealer. EGR valve is $142 at the dealer, $180 at AutoZone.  Of course, Courtesy's shipping is pretty high, but I'm only 20 minutes from them, so I can order online then pick them up.Anyway, I wound up using a piece of extra fuel line instead of the vacuum line I was originally going to use - quite a bit thicker, I figured it would handle the heat better and last long enough for the new hose to arrive. Put 120 miles on the car over 3 hours and the CEL has yet to come back on - before it would come on as soon as I got up to highway speeds. The hose is holding up fine so far as well. Crossing my fingers on this one.
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Aug 2, 2012 23:06
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I got to drive somebody else's car! Specifically a Solstice. Holy gently caress that car scares me. I'm a fairly tall guy but I can't see poo poo out of that, I have more perception about what's around my van than I did in that car. I think I'd love to throw it around a windy road or take it on a track though.
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Aug 3, 2012 07:55
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Rorac posted:Specifically a Solstice. Holy gently caress that car scares me. I'm a fairly tall guy but I can't see poo poo out of that, I have more perception about what's around my van than I did in that car. I think I'd love to throw it around a windy road or take it on a track though. Weird. I had no problems sighting over any of the corners. With the top down.
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Aug 3, 2012 08:35
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I bought OEM 2002+ wheels for the NSX. This isn't mine, but I have a red coupe, so when mounted, it will look exactly like this. 
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Aug 3, 2012 19:10
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Black88GTA posted:Cushion out. There were seven separate plugs that had to be disconnected for just the bottom cushion. Glad to see you found a decent one, that underside looks great. Plugs are probably: heat grid occupant sensor seat position controls in-seat airbag (there's usually one on the door side under your leg) seatbelt socket lamp underseat position motor big multiplug for lumbar/tilt/heat going into the seatback
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Aug 3, 2012 19:32
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Replaced my bald rear end rear tires. One was to the wear bars, one was just a hair above them but with a bad flat spot. Discount Tire prorated only the one.  It's nice being able to go faster than 55 again without the car trying to violently shake itself apart. Also checked the ECU again - everything, including EGR, is now showing ready. EGR and evap haven't shown ready since November, and no pending codes. I'm happy.
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Aug 4, 2012 00:00
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Replaced another front wheel hub, this time the front passenger side. The hub got stuck on the shaft (rust of course) so I had to use a loving puller to get it off. Broke the wheel speed sensor in the process though (this was expected, they are hella fragile) so now the ABS tire pressure and ASC lights are on Also went and looked at an S2000 we have at one of our other dealerships, and I want ittttt 
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Aug 4, 2012 23:06
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I replaced the Idler Pulley in the 2k after hosing the poo poo out of it, and changing the power steering fluid yet again. I swear that car sweats brown.
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Aug 4, 2012 23:10
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DreamOn13 posted:Exhaust broke on the way home, right at the front of the cat. It's the stock exhaust from 1999, and being in Chicago, Ohio, and Michigan for the better part of it's life, it's pretty well entirely hosed. I keep running into one piece that I can't take off because of rust welded fasteners, so basically the entire thing is coming off from the head...and all the way back to the muffler. All of it is getting replaced except the header. One oxygen sensor post cat wouldn't come out, haven't tried the other yet.  I don't think I could live with that though, the car is bad enough to drive with a quiet exhaust. I had to buy some nut extractors for one stubborn bastard nut but luckily it worked taking it off on the first try. Otherwise it should be ready once my 3 different parts orders come in...Also today I fixed some front end clunks on another car. I didn't tighten the top shock nuts (not the mount, the one on the shock itself) enough on the first pass a couple weeks ago when they were installed. It rides much better now.  And I'm doing MY GIRLFRIEND's front brakes tomorrow on her Outback. Another day sweating my balls off. 
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Aug 4, 2012 23:54
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Washed and detailed the door jambs and trunk. Also wiped down the worst of the engine dirt. She's not looking too bad even after a quick storm.
Nathan Explosion fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 5, 2012 |
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Aug 5, 2012 01:21
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Lovely gigantic camera phone picture.
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Aug 5, 2012 01:55
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Used this:  (Yes, a VE/Pontiac G8 rear door does fit in the back of a Hyundai Getz!) To turn this:  Into this:  $300 for the door, plus $50 to get it retinted (not yet done) beats the $1856 quote I got to repair it.
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Aug 5, 2012 10:32
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metaxus posted:
That's got to be a good feeling. Looks like a good paint match, too.
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Aug 5, 2012 16:14
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DropShadow posted:That's got to be a good feeling. Looks like a good paint match, too. Yeah, and what makes it even better is that woman that hit me actually paid me the $1856 (in cash, no less) so I'm about $1500 up. As far as the paint match, I totally lucked out and got one from a car made the same year, the same month, from the same state, and with almost the same mileage. I think that probably helped.
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Aug 5, 2012 21:46
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I replaced my convertible top this weekend. gently caress this job. Easily the most difficult / time consuming car job I've ever done but I saved about a grand on having someone else do it.     The Robbins top is excellent quality. Glass window with defrost (just like OEM), great fit, and superior cloth instead of vinyl. Also, there are no waves or ripples like most DIY tops which pleases the AI in me greatly
Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 5, 2012 |
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Aug 5, 2012 22:20
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Paul Boz_ posted:I replaced my convertible top this weekend. gently caress this job. Easily the most difficult / time consuming car job I've ever done You did a really good job, though. It's tough to get the Robbins tops to not bunch in the b-pillar area, yours is nice and smooth.
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Aug 5, 2012 22:26
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meatpimp posted:You did a really good job, though. It's tough to get the Robbins tops to not bunch in the b-pillar area, yours is nice and smooth. Yeah no kidding. 9/10 of the pictures that I see online look wavy / bunched but we just took our time and worked through it, pulling it into shape and making it our bitch  By far the worst and most difficult part was reinstalling the rain rail and rear support straps. I could not have done that without my wife's little body. I don't know how anyone does that by themselves. If anyone's curious to know the process here's the guide I followed: http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/448840-replacing-your-convertible-top-with-a-robbins-top/
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Aug 5, 2012 22:29
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edit: wrong thread. too many tabs open.
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Aug 5, 2012 23:12
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The top looks good. I worked at a convertible specialist shop for 5+ years, did dozens of s2000's. The robbins tops are great but they leave an unfinished edge at the b pillar hanging down, i always tucked it under the seal retainer when i screwed that part back on. Getting those back-plastics in and out is totally a "what the gently caress were they thinking at the factory?" moment. Hope you replaced your bow-elastics and made sure to file down the rivet heads, 90% of s2000 top failures occur in that area due to rubbing damage over time. Edit: i notice you didnt get the plastics back in. Good luck!
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Aug 5, 2012 23:43
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Paul Boz_ posted:
Thanks for the tip. I have tried a couple different products trying to get my white wheels clean. This absolutely blew everything else out of the water. For the first time the wheels are actually clean and white. Proof: 
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Aug 6, 2012 00:31
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I've found nothing works better on my wheels than Sonax.
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Aug 6, 2012 00:35
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Raw_Beef posted:Edit: i notice you didnt get the plastics back in. Good luck! Just wrapped it all up and went for a ride around the block! No rattles, all plastics in place, everything looks good and sounds good. I not only ground down the rivets and hand-sanded them, I used some of this over them: http://www.amazon.com/UGlu-MSP401-Fabric-Tape-Black/dp/B001RCUQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344215230&sr=8-2&keywords=convertible+top+tape Also, I did the elastic straps as well using larger rivets. I identified all of the places where the factory top sucked and remediated them with that tape and better engineering. Those little seam over-runs on the front were actually super helpful with pulling that new top onto the front of the car. I actually drilled them out and screwed them down so they would stay in place with their tension. It looks great. mutt2jeff posted:Thanks for the tip. I have tried a couple different products trying to get my white wheels clean. This absolutely blew everything else out of the water. For the first time the wheels are actually clean and white. Sick, that looks great! Glad it worked out for you. I love the stuff. Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Aug 6, 2012 |
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Aug 6, 2012 02:08
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metaxus posted:
My RR door has almost identical damage (just a bit higher up) from a hit and run. Insurance quoted a similar $1780 to fix it, minus my $250 deductible. In TX, hit and run, even when parked, is covered by uninsured motorist (which I have), so my rates should barely be affected. When I find a matching door I'll probably do the same thing. There's also a dent in the quarter panel from the same impact, but not a big one. I'm hoping I can find a PDR guy to make it look a bit better. The problem for me will be finding a matching door with good paint, this body style only ran until 2001. Clearcoat goes to poo poo in a hurry with the sun here. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Aug 6, 2012 |
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Aug 6, 2012 04:16
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Paul Boz_ posted:Just wrapped it all up and went for a ride around the block! No rattles, all plastics in place, everything looks good and sounds good. I not only ground down the rivets and hand-sanded them, I used some of this over them: http://www.amazon.com/UGlu-MSP401-Fabric-Tape-Black/dp/B001RCUQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344215230&sr=8-2&keywords=convertible+top+tape That tape is new to me, ill have to pick some up next time i do a top, its uses could be legion. I did the same thing with the unfinished seam edges, i pull them tight and put one of the seal retainer screws through it. I have installed OEM honda tops which didnt have this 'feature' and fit a bajillion times better in that horrible cramped b pillar corner, and so the first robbins with this 'feature' (started after a redesign on their production line a few years ago) really pissed me off, thinking they were doing some slipshod job and had not finished that paticular top. After the next three were the same i got wise to the concept. I'm 5'10 200lbs and did these jobs without pulling the seats, cramming my elbows and head back into the well area. I had a method that didnt require removing the roll bar covers. It involed some litteral corner cutting, but in the 30+ s2000s i did not one ever came back with complaints, and some unfortunates who kept getting their tops slashed and seats stolen were always happy about the work when they did have to come back. All s2000's should have the seat security nuts and probably a sign in the window saying as such, just to avoid the slashed top before the crooks find out they cant take the seat. Then again locks just keep honest people honest.
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Aug 6, 2012 05:29
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This week in   50 pounds of stuff only Buicks need.
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Aug 7, 2012 01:52
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Vac operated cruise control i understand, but why do you hate A/C so much? its not even hard to convert an r-12 to r-134a, but now you really made it hard...
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Aug 7, 2012 02:13
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Raw_Beef posted:Vac operated cruise control i understand, but why do you hate A/C so much? I just don't like A/C. Feels weird, smells weird, hate driving with the windows up. I'm rocking the t-tops half the time anyway. It looks like a new reman unit and worked perfectly till now, but it's been 90 degrees all summer here, I DD the car, and I think I turned it on once just to prove to someone that it worked. I dunno. It's not like a z31 has any resale value anyway. Besides that, it makes a shitload of room in the engine bay. If I ever sac up and turbo the car I can just run a relocation pipe now instead of swapping crossmembers and poo poo.
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Aug 7, 2012 02:41
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To each his own, certainly. I run the AC when its hot and i have the windows down. gently caress it, its my gas money and im a huge sweaty babby. Odd smells tend to be due to poo poo growing in your ac/heater box inside the car, sometimes due to a plugged drain. t-top cars are awesome post a pic, im not even sure what car you have.
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Aug 7, 2012 03:15
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1st Edition ADandD posted:I just don't like A/C. Feels weird, smells weird, hate driving with the windows up. I'm rocking the t-tops half the time anyway. It looks like a new reman unit and worked perfectly till now, but it's been 90 degrees all summer here, I DD the car, and I think I turned it on once just to prove to someone that it worked. I dunno. It's not like a z31 has any resale value anyway. Where do you live? My s2000 is the first car that I've ever had with AC and I live in Southern Louisiana. Do you enjoy going to work and smelling like rear end because you're literally marinating in your own juices? I didn't, that's for drat sure. The cabin temp of my 300zx TT with the T tops off during the summer was usually well above the outside temp and I had leather so it was hot as gently caress. I don't know how I was able to drive for a decade before getting a car with air conditioning. I made the same excuses about weight savings, turbo clearance, less maintenance, etc but in the end it was never worth it, I was just way too lazy to fix it. All of that being said I run my AC at full blast when the top is down. I'm pretty sure Honda stuck an Accord AC unit in my car because I can get white knuckles the AC is so cold.
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Aug 7, 2012 03:18
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I did this: Using this:  Even though it was never made like that. I did the rear cover in black though, because I thought it was a little gaudy, and I felt guilty for improving the appearance. Also FYI "Contains Rust Arrestor" was a top selling point beyond color match to brand.
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Aug 7, 2012 03:52
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Paul Boz_ posted:Where do you live? My s2000 is the first car that I've ever had with AC and I live in Southern Louisiana. Do you enjoy going to work and smelling like rear end because you're literally marinating in your own juices? I didn't, that's for drat sure. The cabin temp of my 300zx TT with the T tops off during the summer was usually well above the outside temp and I had leather so it was hot as gently caress. I don't know how I was able to drive for a decade before getting a car with air conditioning. I made the same excuses about weight savings, turbo clearance, less maintenance, etc but in the end it was never worth it, I was just way too lazy to fix it. Well, I live in eastern Ontario, so there's your problem right there. 85 is a hot day.
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Aug 7, 2012 10:59
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