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Those are lovely. I think it's odd, but what I'm liking the most is the benches. They really look like wooden benches.
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Aug 8, 2012 15:33
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:33 |
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The whole diorama came as a resin kit with like 10000 parts, I didnt sculpt anything thankfully.
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Aug 8, 2012 15:44
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I'd love to see the diorama that that diorama is meant to sit in. I like how the figures on the benches look great even when they're pulled away from the bench. I love the dual-weapon guy best though, the one with the flags on his back - what line is that from? Also I decided 'what budget?' and went for the Reaper Bones Kickstarter thing, and am adding the sets with giants on there - I loved how it looked when someone posted it ITT earlier. I know I won't be able to match what they did but I want some 'fresh' models to work on after I'm done with my 40K stuff (haha, 'done') and I don't want to repaint my old 80's-era fantasy stuff over again.
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Aug 8, 2012 15:59
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krushgroove posted:I love the dual-weapon guy best though, the one with the flags on his back - what line is that from? http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/skorne/warbeasts/molik-karn
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Aug 8, 2012 16:20
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Sweet, something to work towards I guess. Is anyone else a fan of the MiniWarGaming guys? They're a club/online store based in Canada, they do tons of video content, have a forum, etc. - they also sell DVD (well, files you can download) and every now and then do a special where you sign up for their 'vault' membership for $1 for a week, and you can download some of their DVDs for ever, basically. They've got their 11 DVD set on offer now, with these as the subjects: Avatars of War Lord of Chaos Avatars of War Elf Hero Infinity's Knight Santiago Infinity's Moderator Avatars of War Orc Brute Kameel Remote Ogre - Flesh and Tarnish Yu Jing Battle Damage True Metallic Metals DVD 1 - Basic Technique (bronze, silver, gold) True Metallic Metals DVD 2 - Painting a Marauder from Start to Finish Necromancer - Object Source Lighting Monsters - Brain Horror Monsters - Sasquatch Monsters - Eldritch Demon Mastering Decay (rust, open wounds, ooze, chipped paint, claw marks, bullet holes) Pretty good stuff, and well worth $1 or whatever it is.
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Aug 8, 2012 16:37
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Sole.Sushi posted:Chaos God of Plagues himself telling you he thinks you're the best thing since sliced bread: also known as improperly mixed resin trapped inside bubbles that were likely ruptured when you started drilling holes. Yeah I gave FW a ring and they confirm this is exactly what it is. Although he'd never heard of it still coming out two years later. So I'll have to cut the base off, clean it, repair the paintwork, then rebase it. Faff. It does answer the question of whether or not I should re-base it though.
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Aug 8, 2012 17:50
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I suppose it's possible that the surface tension as the unmixed resin evaporates is pulling set resin with it. Though, really, his 'never heard of it' schtick is mindless. It's sap and it won't petrify for decades if it's not exposed to air (for example, inside a mixed resin figure that was poured and set). If you used brass rods, that might explain why the resin would creep along the rod and out the holes, the oxidation of the metal provides the impetus for that. Not that it really matters why it happened. The chance of resin goobers ending up on your stuff is not a compelling reason to stop pinning or drilling. Rinsing with water I don't think will help much, because my impression is the whole point of this substance is to be hydrophobic. Simple green might work/help. But I bet taking an old toothbrush you don't want, rubbing it on lava soap--like the kind car mechanics use to clean their hands of oil--and then gently scrubbing the mini would work best. I think you're going to lose some paint, though. \/\/Semantics: whatever the goo is, hasn't reacted. Even when and if it hardened into some amber-like substance, it wouldn't be undergoing the same kind of change that the resin is undergoing to chemically cure. I that's why I said petrify, not cure. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Aug 8, 2012 |
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Aug 8, 2012 18:14
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:I suppose it's possible that the surface tension as the unmixed resin evaporates is pulling set resin with it. Though, really, his 'never heard of it' schtick is mindless. It's sap and it won't petrify for decades if it's not exposed to air (for example, inside a mixed resin figure that was poured and set).  What is more likely is that the mix was off in some way. There was enough of a reaction to cure the crunchy outer shell, but the inside is filled with yummy, oozing chemicals - appropriate for a GD of Nurgle, if you ask me. The sad thing is that the models can continue to "weep" the uncured resin for a long time, depending how much is trapped in there. I've had this happen to a few of my casts, though thankfully, I usually get the ratio right.
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Aug 8, 2012 20:28
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Thanks for the advice. My current plan, such as it is, is to drill out the styrene rod pins, leave it to sit for a week or two and hopefully drain out the bulk of this crap, then take off the base (if I can) and scrub it. I had to use a shitload of greenstuff to compensate for a concavity in the base, and I have no idea how well cleaning super-glued GS of the bottom of Fatty will go. I'm resigned to having to repaint it at this point, and I'm fully expecting to snap either the tentacles, horns, or tongue. :/ The real shitter is that I didn't realise it was happening soon enough. The kit sat in it's box for about a year before I painted it, then sat either in foam or on my shelf for two years after it was painted. Otherwise I'd be insisting on a replacement kit. In future with FW I'll be drilling pin holes and then leaving the model to sit where it can drain on to paper or something for a while, to hopefully detect similar cockups before it's too late. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 8, 2012 |
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Aug 8, 2012 21:20
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Vondizimo posted:A friend just pointed me at this guy on ebay. Not a viking posted:Those are pretty sweet. krushgroove posted:Yeah, I've saved that seller. As a connoisseur of bits and whatnots, I recognized him instantly. http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/ I got my riot shields for my guardsman from this guy ages ago, before he even had all that cybernetic limbs and gun attachments stuff. Probably easier to just bookmark his site instead of his ebay store.
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Aug 8, 2012 21:22
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Here's a quick question, what do you guys do to make sure your painted models are clean of dust/particles before you varnish them? I haven't had a problem with space marines, but now I'm doing a warpwolf where it's more noticeable and I've already brushed off a few of the easier-to-reach places. I was thinking of using a Q-tip for the rest. Is that a bad idea? Should I use a bit of water or anything else? I know that acrylic paints aren't supposed to come off with water once they're fully dry but I don't want to risk messing this up even a little at this point.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:19
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Thanks for the advice. My current plan, such as it is, is to drill out the styrene rod pins, leave it to sit for a week or two and hopefully drain out the bulk of this crap, then take off the base (if I can) and scrub it. I had to use a shitload of greenstuff to compensate for a concavity in the base, and I have no idea how well cleaning super-glued GS of the bottom of Fatty will go. if it helps, this is the first time i've ever heard of this happening with Forge world, so it cant be common enough to worry about and go to all that trouble.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:45
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PaintVagrant posted:The whole diorama came as a resin kit with like 10000 parts, I didnt sculpt anything thankfully. Is it available for purchase anywhere? I absolutely love it.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:56
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Furret Basket posted:Is it available for purchase anywhere? I absolutely love it. Its made by fenryll, I ordered it from their site
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Aug 8, 2012 23:00
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Cross-posting a question from the Malifaux thread: Does anyone have any tips for painting creatures with no detail or features on them? I'm painting Malifaux Silurid and they have almost no detail on them, so the one I have done just looks incredibly dull and boring.
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Aug 8, 2012 23:28
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Lungboy posted:Cross-posting a question from the Malifaux thread: I had no idea what a Malifaux Silurid looks like so I GISed it. Assuming this is the sort of thing you're dealing with, it looks like there's still plenty of room for highlighting and shading, plus you can do what this guy did and do some sort of reptilan or amphibian inspired skin patterns on it.
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Aug 8, 2012 23:48
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I'm terrible at freehanding stuff, it's hard enough to paint within the lines!
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Aug 8, 2012 23:56
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Instead of free handing you can try some brush techniques instead. Heavy application of sponge or stippling in different hues will give you a varied skin tone. I've actually been wanting to try and paint a model using only stippling. I bet it could look pretty boss in an artistic merit sort of way.
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Aug 9, 2012 00:36
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Yeah when I do my Silurids I plan on doing some brown or burgundy sponge splotches over grey primer and then glaze the whole thing with swampy green. Hopefully it looks natural and not lovely.
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Aug 9, 2012 00:51
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JerryLee posted:Here's a quick question, what do you guys do to make sure your painted models are clean of dust/particles before you varnish them? I haven't had a problem with space marines, but now I'm doing a warpwolf where it's more noticeable and I've already brushed off a few of the easier-to-reach places. I was thinking of using a Q-tip for the rest. Is that a bad idea? Should I use a bit of water or anything else? I know that acrylic paints aren't supposed to come off with water once they're fully dry but I don't want to risk messing this up even a little at this point. Reposing this in case anyone has any input before I just go ahead and take a cotton swab to it. If the question is silly and/or no one can help me, sorry for spamming the thread.
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Aug 9, 2012 01:41
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JerryLee posted:Reposing this in case anyone has any input before I just go ahead and take a cotton swab to it. If the question is silly and/or no one can help me, sorry for spamming the thread. I use a big soft makeup brush that I stole from my girlfriend.
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Aug 9, 2012 01:48
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Dominion posted:I use a big soft makeup brush that I stole from my girlfriend. "Honey, can I use some of your makeup stuff for my manbarbies?"
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Aug 9, 2012 02:09
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Dominion posted:I use a big soft makeup brush that I stole from my girlfriend. Unfortunately, I haven't been in an intimate relationship with a woman for many years. And none of the men are that feminine.  Thanks anyway, I'll just go with the dry Q-tip plan. Or a damp one, as the case turns out. vvvv Yeah, I might want to get a soft brush and keep it for that, but currently the best candidate some has some tiny amount of paint discoloration on the bristles and I wouldn't want to take the chance of it ending up like an extremely light drybrushing effect. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 9, 2012 |
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Aug 9, 2012 02:19
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I just use a soft paintbrush that I have never used for any painting.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:24
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JerryLee posted:Unfortunately, I haven't been in an intimate relationship with a woman for many years. Or go to CVS and pay a few dollars for a makeup brush. quote:"Honey, can I use some of your makeup stuff for my manbarbies?" I have actually said that, yes. I also use disposable makeup applicators for everything I would normally use qtips for. They're perfect, just like qtips except one end is pointed and they don't leave cotton threads everywhere.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:49
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I kept stealing my wife's hair dryer for painting related stuff, until she bought a new one and bequeathed the old one to me (mainly because I kept leaving it in my man cave instead of putting it back heh).
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Aug 9, 2012 02:53
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Dominion posted:Or go to CVS and pay a few dollars for a makeup brush. I was even at a CVS earlier today but I wasn't wise enough at that time.  Thanks for the tip!
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Aug 9, 2012 02:55
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Fyrbrand posted:I kept stealing my wife's hair dryer for painting related stuff, until she bought a new one and bequeathed the old one to me (mainly because I kept leaving it in my man cave instead of putting it back heh). hahaha. Yeah, my wife likes to wake me up at about 6am (1 hour before I get up) if I misplace her hair dryer.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:56
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Guilty of the hair dryer thing. It makes washing so much faster/even though.
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Aug 9, 2012 04:07
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Hair dryer got me to the oath finish line with two minutes to spare last month. 
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Aug 9, 2012 04:12
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I've always been interested in using hair-dryers to accelerate drying times but never actually tried it. Any tips, or is it really just point it at the model until he melts ?
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Aug 9, 2012 04:50
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I've always been interested in using hair-dryers to accelerate drying times but never actually tried it. Any tips, or is it really just point it at the model until he melts ? Don't use it on the old GW washes, it congeals into shiny globs in the cracks instead of pooling naturally. Other than that I've used a hair dryer on metal, plastic and resin to no ill effect. Also, I own my own hair dryer  Do you guys never need to dry your hair in a hurry or something?
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Aug 9, 2012 04:59
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A real goon keeps his hair in a constant state of oily-moistness.
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Aug 9, 2012 05:26
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A true ham shaves his head with x-acto blades.
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Aug 9, 2012 05:47
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I have short hair, drying is for hippies.
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Aug 9, 2012 05:47
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Bavius posted:A true ham shaves his head with x-acto blades. Who was talking about their head?
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Aug 9, 2012 06:09
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Asphyxious posted:Do you guys never need to dry your hair in a hurry or something? No need for a hairdryer when the sun does it for me. 
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Aug 9, 2012 06:58
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A hair drier would damage my glorious locks, towel dry all the way. The hair dryer is purely for drying paint.
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Aug 9, 2012 08:24
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Everything you need to know about MP/S/M megathread is on this page.
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Aug 9, 2012 08:54
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:33 |
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Thanks for all the Silurid ideas. I did another test model and i think part of my problem is using the wrong paint for the first attempt. I wanted to use my Reaper Dark Elf colours, but they are far too flat and matte for this. The second one i used Trollblood base and it looks much better. It's a shame as i love the Dark Elf colours. Maybe a wash might remove the flatness?
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Aug 9, 2012 13:22
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