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discstickers posted:So my local dealership got a lease return on a fleet 328xi recently. One possible way - My credit union offers a deal where you 'lease' whatever new car you want through them. The title stays in your name, but you have the option of 'returning' the car at the end of the terms, at which point maybe it becomes a fleet car? I'm not sure how common that sort of arrangement is.
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Aug 8, 2012 16:59
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kind of fleet buys that?
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This is truly automotive insanity.
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Aug 8, 2012 17:58
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Anyone know about engine rebuilds? My M42 (91 318IS) is running well, but is at about 210k, so I figure its time to start getting a replacement squared away before it leaves me stranded. Rebuilds seem to run $4000 in parts, or $8000 for a stroked rebuilt one from Metric Mechanics. So for the rebuild costs, I could just pick up a whole new car. Besides needing new paint, my car is in pretty solid shape, suspension brakes and everything else are squared away pretty well. So it seems a used engine is the way to go. I do have a wrecked 318is sitting in my driveway, but it was in a front end collision and the engine was moved, not sure if that is able to be rebuilt or just trash. The oil pan is cracked at minimum. Any thoughts, or know of anyplace to get a tested used engine and transmission?
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Aug 8, 2012 19:42
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If you're going to put a new engine in an E30 you might as well go whole hog and put a M50 in there at the very least.
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Aug 8, 2012 20:02
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rscott posted:If you're going to put a new engine in an E30 you might as well go whole hog and put a M50 in there at the very least. In that case, it looks like I would have to source a whole new drivetrain and mix and match mounts and that kind of thing. I was hoping more to pull the engine/transmission, maybe get myself a quicker ratio steering rack, and pop back in the rebuilt engine instead of what sounds like months of work. This is my DD and reliability is needed. On the other hand an S50 or S52....
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Aug 8, 2012 21:16
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If you have a spare chassis you've got a great donor for a wiring harness to do a m/s5x swap...its the most intensive part of doing the swap so you can do all of that work before you pull the motor on the swap car. Do eeeeeetttt
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Aug 8, 2012 21:24
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It seems like good things that come to those who wait. Someone in our local motorsports club is thinking of selling his m3 at the end of the year, and it's a pretty drat nice car.  quote:Stock type maintenance items replaced since 85k He wants 15k. It's a 95 with 137000 miles. No rust, always winter stored. It may be 2 years older than that hellrot sedan, but it's a hell of a lot better prepared for slalom/track use. I've seen the car run and it is quite fast with a good driver. I thought I'd never get another black car, but I'm not sure I can pass this one up, especially since I don't have to fly out and drive 20 hours to get it. Dyscrasia posted:In that case, it looks like I would have to source a whole new drivetrain and mix and match mounts and that kind of thing. I was hoping more to pull the engine/transmission, maybe get myself a quicker ratio steering rack, and pop back in the rebuilt engine instead of what sounds like months of work. I was looking into a 24v swap recently since my 328is is dying, I can shed light on a few things: -Buy a running e36 (325/328/m3) to pull the engine/DME/harness/transmission/driveshaft from. It will take forever to piecemeal a swap together. If you have the e36 transmission and 4 bolt driveshaft the whole thing will literally bolt up to the e30 without modification, aside from installing the driveshaft bearing backwards. -Ignore everyone that says you need to run OBDI if you find an OBDII e36. OBDII swaps (M52/S52) have been done and there are people on r3v that can remove the EWS (key security) and change it to use only the one O2 sensor. If you get your hands on an OBDI car, simply use OBDI. -You do NOT need a new brake booster. There is a method to move the stock e30 booster about 1" to clear the intake and still work. Requires a tiny bit of welding/cutting to make a new brake pedal fork, and drilling 3 holes in the firewall. You can even buy a connector to go from the E36 harness to the E30 harness, instead of splicing everything together. It's still quite a bit of work though, I wouldn't want to try a swap on my DD. If you really need it to get to work/school I'd just look for a used M42 for a couple hundred bucks.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:40
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Crustashio posted:It's still quite a bit of work though, I wouldn't want to try a swap on my DD. If you really need it to get to work/school I'd just look for a used M42 for a couple hundred bucks. That is kind of what I am thinking. My wrecked car has been sitting (with a cover, and tarp over the engine bay) outside in Wisconsin weather for two years, not sure if its even possible to rebuild it, and it had 190k, so its not worth a straight up swap, for all I know, its got cracks in it from the collision. Might just have to sell the 300zx and get myself an M3 as a 'fun' car. The Nissan is a blast, but I've been all about BMWs ever since I picked up the E30.
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Aug 9, 2012 00:00
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Well I'm having my first real Oh poo poo problem, and I wanna post my current issues. This is all just happened this evening. While the car was idling for a few minutes, the oil light started flashing red and the temp gauge went all the way red (hey that lights up!). So I turned the engine off for a few minutes, and turned it back on and drove home. I'm only <1 mile from my house, so I blasted the heat and did it. By the time I got home, there was no longer hot air coming out, just cold, despite being set for 91F. I let the car cool down, and checked the coolant. The level bobber thing was pretty far down there, so I went and bought universal 50/50 mix coolant and topped it off (whatever is going to happen, flushing the system is now in my immediate future). I was also down a quart of oil, so I added that. I went for a drive, and everything seemed fine for the first few minutes, then BAM in the red, so I turned around and went straight home. I noticed while in neutral (this is an automatic 325xi), the RPM's were fluxuating between 500 and 1000ish back and forth. Flashing red oil light means the pressure is failing somewhere as far as I know. My friend postulating that maybe my oil pressure has been bad lately, causing the engine to overheat, causing the car to eat/burn/whatever the coolant, which would explain why I don't appear to have a leak and why its suddenly gone. I did buy a warranty from the dealer, and it does appear this may be covered, whatever the problem actually is. I know this is stupid, but I took a picture of whats covered for the engine, and i'm going to post it! It will make me marginally feel better in this time of slight panic. 
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Aug 9, 2012 02:26
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Does it start and run just fine while cold? Your thermostat is stuck closed.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:30
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Well, thermo sensor has been failing, I get the SES light occasionally, and that's the code it throws. I do have an OBD sensor and the Torque App for my phone, do you have any suggestions on what I could check while it's plugged in? Oil/Coolant temp? I have been under the impression it wasn't a huge priority to fix it. My dealer quoted hundreds of bucks to fix, so I was gonna do it myself when it wasn't 90F degrees everyday. It does start just fine. Other than the temp gauge going nuts, there is nothing obviously wrong with the way it's running. Well, other than the RPM's fluxuating while I was coasting in N.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:43
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Binge posted:Well, thermo sensor has been failing, I get the SES light occasionally, and that's the code it throws. I do have an OBD sensor and the Torque App for my phone, do you have any suggestions on what I could check while it's plugged in? Oil/Coolant temp? I have been under the impression it wasn't a huge priority to fix it. My dealer quoted hundreds of bucks to fix, so I was gonna do it myself when it wasn't 90F degrees everyday. The only way to check a thermostat is to take it out and throw it in boiling water to see if it works. Hundreds of dollars is ridiculous. If you can drain coolant and have a screwdriver to remove hoseclamps you can do it yourself. Thermostats are very cheap too.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:55
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My 330Ci just got an overall clean bill of health after its first Inspection II.  Love how solid this car has been. Has given me over a year and 12k miles of completely problem-free ownership. It really pays off to get a meticulously maintained specimen when buying used.
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Aug 9, 2012 03:00
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Binge posted:It does start just fine. Other than the temp gauge going nuts, there is nothing obviously wrong with the way it's running. Well, other than the RPM's fluxuating while I was coasting in N. It's your ecu panicking and trying to save the head.
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Aug 9, 2012 03:05
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Guinness posted:My 330Ci just got an overall clean bill of health after its first Inspection II. Going on three years and 20k miles with my ZHP. I've spent about $1200 in repairs not counting tires and oil. Combined with barely any depreciation, it's quite the bargain. Maybe $120/mo all in? My e36 came out to $90/mo after 5 years.
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Aug 9, 2012 08:27
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ynotony posted:Going on three years and 20k miles with my ZHP. I've spent about $1200 in repairs not counting tires and oil. Combined with barely any depreciation, it's quite the bargain. Maybe $120/mo all in? My e36 came out to $90/mo after 5 years. Up till now my only "repair" has been a burned out side marker which cost me a whopping $20. I got the OE part from Pelican just to be sure it was correct, but probably could have gotten something cheaper, but whatever it was only $20. My Inspection II in total ran me under $550, which additionally included replacing both the WP/Alternator and AC belts and a brake fluid flush. I know that's still a bit of a ridiculous chunk of change for what ultimately amounts to a fancy oil change and filters replacement, but when the indy shop quoted me that number (almost half of what I was expecting) I figured it'd be worth it just to have the professionally-done Inspection II record in my stack of car documents for eventual resale value. Plus it's the first time a professional has seen the car since I've owned it (~15 months). I know my way around a car well enough, but I'm no expert, so it was good to get an overall clean bill of health from a shop for peace of mind. So even including oil changes, my total maintenance costs spread out over my term of ownership has still been less than $50/mo. Even if something major happens in the near future, this car has cost me so little in maintenance so far that the expense really wouldn't annoy me that much. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Aug 9, 2012 |
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Aug 9, 2012 18:12
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Any tips and/or for painting out dings and scratches from gravel and/or concrete? My bro decided to park a wee bit too close to the curb and now my beautiful black bumper has got white streaks errywhere. I don't really want to spend $300 at a body shop, so I'd like to learn how to detail myself. I think the color is black sapphire, if that means anything.
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Aug 9, 2012 21:10
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The Tinfoil Price posted:Any tips and/or for painting out dings and scratches from gravel and/or concrete? My bro decided to park a wee bit too close to the curb and now my beautiful black bumper has got white streaks errywhere. I don't really want to spend $300 at a body shop, so I'd like to learn how to detail myself. Painting is not detailing. If it's down to primer or worse there's really no amount of anything you can do short of painting to fix it, and home spray can/touch up paint with a nail brush disasters are really bad ideas that usually turn out pretty poorly.
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Aug 9, 2012 23:46
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Motronic posted:Painting is not detailing. If it's down to primer or worse there's really no amount of anything you can do short of painting to fix it, and home spray can/touch up paint with a nail brush disasters are really bad ideas that usually turn out pretty poorly. Pretty much. Post some pictures in the detailing thread, but if its bad just get it resprayed.
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Aug 10, 2012 00:02
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A few months ago I sold off my e30 and e36. Then I started missing having a BMW and started looking at e46 wagons (because wagons rule). I..uhm...failed. Sort of. 
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Aug 11, 2012 15:38
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televiper posted:A few months ago I sold off my e30 and e36. Then I started missing having a BMW and started looking at e46 wagons (because wagons rule).
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Aug 11, 2012 18:13
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televiper posted:A few months ago I sold off my e30 and e36. Then I started missing having a BMW and started looking at e46 wagons (because wagons rule). Is that cirrusblau? I loved that colour on my e30, and would kill for another. And yeah, totally better than an e46 wagon. Is it a 635CSI or M6?
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Aug 11, 2012 19:35
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Looks like a 635CSI to me.
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Aug 11, 2012 19:44
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That looks clean as heck. Got any shots of the interior?
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Aug 11, 2012 23:32
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I'm going to be looking at this tomorrow. I know it's probably going to be in pretty rough shape, as it's only 800 bucks, but I'm expecting that. It's got a clean title and he says it runs and everything, and I've been wanting a project car (especially an e28) for a long time. I've been looking around and I've read that a big concern with these are the top end of the engine, so I'll be looking at that, but are there any other areas of the car I should give special attention to as well?
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Aug 11, 2012 23:58
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juche mane posted:Looks like a 635CSI to me. It's a 633CSi ('82), the PO put a 635 airdam on it. Chinatown posted:That looks clean as heck. Got any shots of the interior? Took some -       hah - redline sticker is falling off  The toolkit is complete  Should probably get that guy checked for road-worthiness  Original wheel and airbox  not-original airbox  Big Six Crustashio posted:Is that cirrusblau? I loved that colour on my e30, and would kill for another.  Ascotgrau  And a few extra even though no one asked:   Minor paint issues:    the only bubble or rust spot I could find on the whole car The coolant light flickers and gauges go a bit crazy when I move at low speeds, but stabilize after...ehh..10mph or so. Any thoughts? vid of it happening: http://youtu.be/48KKF7eKz9Y
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Aug 12, 2012 03:14
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Rules.
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Aug 12, 2012 03:25
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televiper posted:The coolant light flickers and gauges go a bit crazy when I move at low speeds, but stabilize after...ehh..10mph or so. Any thoughts? Also, gently caress yeah 6s are awesome. Are you going to do anything with the bumpers? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 12, 2012 |
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Aug 12, 2012 04:02
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If they're anything like my E30, they just have loose grounds on the back of the dials.
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Aug 12, 2012 04:38
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 I want a Big6 so I can turn my E30 into a pure racecar and use the 6 as a tow vehicle 
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Aug 12, 2012 08:22
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Thanks guys, I'll check the connections and ground. I saw that recommendation for a similar problem somewhere else, but didn't want to say it and risk confirmation bias.Lowclock posted:Are you going to do anything with the bumpers? I'll probably leave the bumpers alone. I know some people despise the US crash bumpers, but to me that's just parts of the 80s charm - I grew up with sexy cars looking that way and didn't know it was 'wrong' until much more recently. Also the mod looks like it involves taking a Sawzall to the front frame and welding new material to the rear - a little out of my comfort zone for my DIY skills just yet. televiper fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Aug 12, 2012 |
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Aug 12, 2012 14:36
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televiper posted:
 Now that's a toolkit. I always felt pretty smug about my E46 kit but this... it has 6 wrenches! A magnet wand! And a little logo-cloth! Beautiful car by the way - nothing gets me going like a good anti-pedestrian frontend.
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Aug 12, 2012 14:45
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televiper posted:A few months ago I sold off my e30 and e36. Then I started missing having a BMW and started looking at e46 wagons (because wagons rule). I just want to mention that I'm incredibly jealous of you. drat. edit: that toolkit even comes with spare bulbs 
CornHolio fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Aug 12, 2012 |
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Aug 12, 2012 14:59
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televiper you bastard. you bastard televiper.
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Aug 12, 2012 15:22
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The wifes car: '07 328i 
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Aug 12, 2012 17:04
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Everyone seems to hate the E90 sedan. Someone told me I have a middle aged lady car. Sorry I couldn't afford your lovely 90s honda, bro.
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Aug 12, 2012 17:25
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Cojawfee posted:Everyone seems to hate the E90 sedan. Someone told me I have a middle aged lady car. Sorry I couldn't afford your lovely 90s honda, bro. I think the facelifted ones aren't half bad.
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Aug 12, 2012 17:48
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Tire n00b here  I went to drive my E39 yesterday only to find that the front passenger tire was flat. Tire shop says it's non-repairable. Can I get away with just buying one new front or should I replace both?
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Aug 12, 2012 18:59
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discstickers posted:Tire n00b here That depends on age and condition. If the rest are fairly new, sure. If they are on their way out you are best off putting a couple of new ones on the back and rotating the current rears to the front.
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Aug 12, 2012 19:08
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Motronic posted:That depends on age and condition. If the rest are fairly new, sure. If they are on their way out you are best off putting a couple of new ones on the back and rotating the current rears to the front. The rears are wider the the fronts. I just checked the other front and it could use a replacement too. Sigh. I think the car is angry because it knows I'm trying to replace it.
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Aug 12, 2012 19:48
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