|
Cat Terrist posted:Well how are they gonna know? Do they check serial numbers?  I'd know.
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 14:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 13:42 |
|
|
Well a few weeks have flown by from this:Chiwie posted:Today, on my way to work a fence decided to fight my Subaru. Which was a shame as I was going to take my first steps into some beginner level motor sport due to catching the bug at last years targa high country. I finally picked up my full licence and got my insurance back and its time for a new (to me) Subaru. I've been hunting around for MY03 to MY05 WRX models in Australia and I keep finding cars with around 120k to 160k in my price range with stuff done by these guys.]. Spoke to a mate that does some motorsport and he told me that they seem to be fairly above board and won't lead to constant defects by RTA or the police. This is my first car with a turbo and something I've been wanting for more than a decade. From what I've found I know that belts need to be done around 160k km, other than barring that and the obvious leaks, anything I need to watch out for*? *I've already budgeted to replace every fluid in the car and buy a new set of decent tires. Currently looking for a way to get my hands on extra-s in Australia.
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 16:45
|
|
|
MRT is a pretty famous shop, so they likely do good work. If they're local why not get them to inspect a prospective car too?
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 17:46
|
|
|
c355n4 posted:
And that makes it half the fun, seeing what you can get away with! quote:MRT is a pretty famous shop, so they likely do good work. If they're local why not get them to inspect a prospective car too? gently caress NO MRT might do okay work - they bloody well better they charge 3x what everyone else does - but inspection? No way. All you will get is a bill and a list of poo poo to replace you actually dont need to replace. quote:anything I need to watch out for* The less mods the better, look for motorsport related wounds (if it's done any motorsport run away), if it doesnt have a good maintenace record walk away. If there's ANY rust run away. That's crash damage giveaway. Subarus just dont rust in NSW unless somethign is seriously wrong. Generally, the main thing is to look for a car that is as stock as possible and has always been as stock as possible. The stock ones tend to be looked after better and be in better condition. Also if you are interested in motorsport, join https://www.wrx.org.au after you get the car. We loves our motorsport 
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2012 23:17
|
|
|
I need to pick your brains about a clunking/binding/popping noise coming from the front of my '08 Legacy specB (90k miles). It's very hard to describe, but it starts after 20 minutes of driving, mixed highway stop and go red lights. As I'm coasting to a stop below 10 mph I hear what I believe to be a binding crunching noise followed by pops and more crunching. Happens as well while I'm just inching to a stop at the entrance gates to my community. Sometimes I can't tell if its coming from the driver side or passenger side or both. But I can definitely feel it in the floor board under/behind the clutch pedal. It does not make the typical clicking noise of a bad CV on turns, or any loud whirring or whining that a bearing would make. I had it up on jacks when I changed the oil, and I could not discern any free play or movement of the wheels at 3 and 9 or 12 and 6. Sometimes I can hear the noise coming from around the strut tower if I park the car and bounce it up and down. The local Subaru here had the car for 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong. It sucks because it doesn't do it all the time either. If and when its making noise I can park it for a few hours and the noise will not be there when I leave. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 15:50
|
|
|
Take a video of the noise and show the service manager. I did that for our Mazda5 rear squeak since it seemed humidity/temperature related.
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2012 17:20
|
|
|
A few months ago, someone (seat safety switch?) offered to let a set of snowflakes go for cheap. Are those still available? If not, anyone have some? Finally have the cash to get new tires, but I want to get some 16" rims so I don't have to try to find good 205/60/r15s.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 00:47
|
|
|
Not me, it was The Jabberwocky.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 02:23
|
|
|
Oh yeah, that's right. Probably should have gone through my post history, but that would have been the smart thing to do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 02:30
|
|
|
I got my Subaru back today. I just need to put back some of the exterior touches and finish mounting the lip and it will be ready for the street and soon the track. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 05:38
|
|
|
Holdbrooks posted:I got my Subaru back today. I just need to put back some of the exterior touches and finish mounting the lip and it will be ready for the street and soon the track. That orange is gorgeous.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 11:50
|
|
|
Is the O2 sensor one size fits all? The reason I ask is be cause my 06 sti is stuttering uncontrollably between 3-4 k rpms but is fine below and above. I've just had the engine rebuildlt so I'm thinking it could be an 02 sensor. I can get a sensor from an 03 libratey for free to test, would it work on my 06? I just don't want to waste everyone's time and find out its not compatabile anyway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 12:58
|
|
|
Scro posted:Is the O2 sensor one size fits all? The reason I ask is be cause my 06 sti is stuttering uncontrollably between 3-4 k rpms but is fine below and above. I've just had the engine rebuildlt so I'm thinking it could be an 02 sensor. Was it custom tuned after the rebuild as well?
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 14:55
|
|
|
Is it throwing a code? If the o2 is bad then it's just going to run really rich across the board.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 21:35
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Oh yeah, that's right. Probably should have gone through my post history, but that would have been the smart thing to do. They're yours if you want them. You can PM me or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2012 21:51
|
|
|
I sent an email to your gmail address. I don't have PMs.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 02:25
|
|
|
So long time ago I posted about a 2.5 RS (turboed) that I was gonna buy, here it is for sale again!: http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/3167541914.html Can't believe I even thought about buying this car. Much happier with my 03 WRX. Oh and yes, she did blow the motor, thus the rebuild.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 02:28
|
|
|
Yakattak posted:So long time ago I posted about a 2.5 RS (turboed) that I was gonna buy, here it is for sale again!: Why would you go to the trouble and expense to rebuild a blown motor and continue to use pistons/compression that can only handle 5 psi? I just... I mean why not just drop a ej255 in it? edit: Oh she did drop Weisco STi pistons in it. But still, why not just pick up an ej255... And why isn't it tuned yet? She's running on the stock map with significantly lower compression? That thing must be dog slow right now. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Aug 11, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 09:35
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Why would you go to the trouble and expense to rebuild a blown motor and continue to use pistons/compression that can only handle 5 psi? I just... I mean why not just drop a ej255 in it? I asked why she didn't just swap in an EJ20/25 and she said she'd rather spend the money rebuilding than swapping, which is stupid because she probably spent an assload rebuilding it, and it still needs a tune, injectors and "a better fuel system". I'm not exactly sure how much that's going to run, but its gotta equal out to the cost of an EJ205, which in turn is going to be a hell of a lot faster than this motor with 5 psi. Also the turbo is "bypassed" right now so its just NA, whatever that means.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 10:47
|
|
|
Well, on Monday I am picking up a second Subaru. We were looking to replace our 96 Bronco, which has been dead reliable and useful to us, with something lower (i am a lousy cripple) and with 4 doors to make getting the kids in and out easier, plus better fuel economy doesn't hurt. We scoured craigslist for days and days, replying to almost-expired ads in search of a 96-99 Outback wagon. We went and looked at three of them yesterday, going like 90 minutes away for the furthest one. The first one was a 238k mile 96 5-speed, and the guy neglected to mention in his ad that it had the ABS light on, CEL, windshield shot out with a pellet gun, and that the loving title wasn't even in his name. Second car had 255k miles and had been sitting in a field for a year and was missing driver's side carpet, had soft brakes and made crazy noises. Third car had 114k miles, good service history and only some cosmetic damage (giant dent below one tail light on the body panel). Naturally, we picked this one, which also happened to be 5 miles from home. Wife is picking it up Monday.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 11:24
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Was it custom tuned after the rebuild as well? After the rebuild they assured me it was tune related. Ran the engine in then had it tuned. Seems to be doing it but worse (maybe because its running more power??). There are no codes being thrown out but it is running slightly rich The stutter is so bad it's almost like a bunny hop until the car warms and it then just feels like the car is 'straining'. Take it on a hill? It's like being in a jumping castle on wheels between 3-4 revs but completely fine out of that rev range. The local mechanic here who works only on subbies said its like nothing he's seen and he's also had a go at tuning it but wasn't able to fix it. It has an after market air intake system and an after market top mount. The mechanic gave me this explanation as to why he thinks it's the O2 sensor: Mechanic Friend posted:A car running in closed loop o2 mode relying on feedback from the o2 sensor will aim for an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. Your car runs at about 13.8 to 14.2 on average, verified with the o2 sensor I use for tuning. There is quite possibly a fault with the sensor as it seems like the voltage signal its telling the ecu that 14.7 has been reached and therefore it makes no further fuel corrections and thinks that its all going well, not throwing up any cel codes to show any errors as it thinks there is none. I'm going to try the o2 sensor as no one seems to know what's doing it but they run for about $400 down here in Australia and I want to know if I can just grab one form an 03 and stick it in my 06 without damaging anything. Neither my mechanic friend knows and I've tried google but I'm not having much luck. The garage who did the rebuild gave me the car back and said they need to do a bit of research because he had no idea what was going on with it. Does anyone have any input or info that could help me figure what the hell is going on with my car? For clarification, one was a street tune and the other a dyno. And it only started doing it AFTER the rebuild. They've also plugged all their computers into bits and pieces looking for error codes but nothing is coming back. Scro fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Aug 11, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 12:02
|
|
|
Scro posted:I'm going to try the o2 sensor as no one seems to know what's doing it but they run for about $400 down here in Australia and I want to know if I can just grab one form an 03 and stick it in my 06 without damaging anything. Neither my mechanic friend knows and I've tried google but I'm not having much luck. Sadly the part numbers are different from the 2002-2005 models vs the 2006-2007. The part number you need is: 22641AA211 The part number for a 2003 is: 22641AA042 The good news is that I found this for you: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/04-05-06...59#ht_500wt_949 Or if you prefer new: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-...b#ht_5029wt_932
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2012 18:44
|
|
|
Holdbrooks posted:I got my Subaru back today. I just need to put back some of the exterior touches and finish mounting the lip and it will be ready for the street and soon the track. I hate orange on nearly everything - it usually makes cars look terrible. But holy poo poo that is perfect. Very nice paint job, never thought it would work on a Subaru.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 04:17
|
|
|
Danger Doug posted:I hate orange on nearly everything - it usually makes cars look terrible. But holy poo poo that is perfect. Very nice paint job, never thought it would work on a Subaru. thanks, its just vinyl so when I want I can go back to the CGM or another color I on the other hand love orange on just about anything.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 08:48
|
|
|
A wrap like that is a pretty awesome solution to the thin paint Subaru uses. I wonder what an Outback looks like in matte forest green.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 10:16
|
|
|
Holdbrooks posted:thanks, its just vinyl so when I want I can go back to the CGM or another color What'd that cost you?
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2012 17:26
|
|
|
My rear sway bar is contacting my SPT exhaust on my 2011 STi. I think its taking the paint off and causing rust. Is my sway bar jacked somehow? I've heard of them "flipping" but have no idea what that means. Therefore, I will include pictures of the ends and links.   Is this alright or do I need to do something about? Is it a good excuse to finally just buy some Whiteline bars? I cant decide on sizes 
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 00:01
|
|
|
THE BLACK NINJA posted:Is this alright or do I need to do something about? Is it a good excuse to finally just buy some Whiteline bars? I cant decide on sizes First thought is that this should be covered under the warranty. Second thought is that you could simply buy longer hangers and call it good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 00:03
|
|
|
Yep, let somebody else fix it. I have a feeling larger sways aren't going to help the problem in the slightest.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 03:08
|
|
|
It's already "flipped" in the way that provides the most clearance. Longer hangers or a short spacer (like an extra flange and gasket) between the two exhaust sections would give you some more room. A bigger swaybar would not. You could also hit the part that is rubbing with a hammer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 03:23
|
|
|
I know a larger diameter bar of the same design won't help clearance, I just thought perhaps the design was dissimilar enough. I really don't trust dealership work, bit it also sucks. loving Subaru.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 03:59
|
|
|
I'm planning on doing coolant changes/flushes on the cars this weekend, and will pick up the Subaru OEM coolant from my local dealer tomorrow. How much does it typically take for a full flush and swap dealie on '03 and '08 NA 2.5s? And how much of a pain in the rear end is it? I've done the trans fluid, power steering and diff oil ok, but I still have coolant and brake fluid on my list of things to learn.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2012 21:34
|
|
|
I'm replacing the front strut mounts on my LGT (snapped one of the bolts  ) and am wondering if I should replace the upper spring seats while I'm at it. If they're parts that may wear out in the future, I figure I may as well get it out of the way now and save the hassle of pulling the struts again down the road. If I recall from when I did Konis/springs, there's rubber on the bottom of the spring seat that looked like it was starting to get torn up where the end of the spring contacts the rubber. @ ~93K miles atm.edit: went ahead and ordered the spring seats too. Splinter fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Aug 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2012 02:19
|
|
|
How many miles is too many for a 98-02 forrester NA? I see a bunch with around 200k that claim to have recently done alot of work. This will be a daily driver but not my only car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 19:14
|
|
|
Splinter posted:I'm replacing the front strut mounts on my LGT (snapped one of the bolts I wouldn't worry about that stuff unless the spring seat has a hole rusted through it or something.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 19:41
|
|
|
THE BLACK NINJA posted:How many miles is too many for a 98-02 forrester NA? I see a bunch with around 200k that claim to have recently done alot of work. This will be a daily driver but not my only car. The span you've listed is smack dab in headgasket failure territory, though at those miles the headgaskets should probably have already failed (check to make sure they actually replaced them, though you should be budgeting to replace them with MLS headgaskets as illustrated in the OP since they're probably on their way to their second failure). There are a wad of 300k km Foresters here and for the most part they seem pretty good for the miles (less ragged on than 300k Imprezas and less crashed than 300k Outbacks/Legacies). A lot of Forester Ses are starting to lose the viscous LSD in the back (not that big of a problem, as they fail they become 'open') and you may want to check for rust and body damage as always. I'd check extensively for milkshake oil from prior/current headgasket failures and do a compression test. Other things you'll want to definitely watch out for is the condition of the timing belt; bring a spanner so you can take the timing cover inspection port off and visually confirm that the timing belt and what pulleys/idlers you can see look good. You'll want to budget to replace this anyway unless it's documented, but basically you're looking here to see if you can even drive it home without the t-belt snapping or skipping a few teeth. Dashboard bulbs like to die on these things by this age so make sure the check engine light comes on when you turn the key to accessory power. If it doesn't, there may well be active/stored codes for various expensive sensors. While we're on the topic of codes, I'd check the fuel filler neck (look behind the passenger side rear wheel near the gas door) to see if it's rusted through. If it is, you're likely to get a p0440 code a few times through a single tank of gas from evap leaks, and replacing the filler neck and friends is not cheap or fun (ask slow is fast for more details). The problem will likely happen eventually, but you don't want to be having it right out of the gate with a new-to-you car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 20:13
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:A lot of Forester Ses are starting to lose the viscous LSD in the back (not that big of a problem, as they fail they become 'open') Not always. My VC diff on my '02 is what killed my transmission.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 20:20
|
|
|
Thanks for the tips. Buying something 200k miles old might just not be a great idea. I don't want to budget 2k in repairs or two weekends of my time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 20:52
|
|
|
To be fair, I bought my '97 Impreza at just about 200k and it's been rock solid and cheap (minus the usual "old car" stuff). The tough Subaru reputation is pretty well deserved.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2012 21:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 13:42 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:To be fair, I bought my '97 Impreza at just about 200k and it's been rock solid and cheap (minus the usual "old car" stuff). The tough Subaru reputation is pretty well deserved. The 2.2 cars and the 2.5 cars are different animals IMO
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2012 01:42
|
|
