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midge posted:I'm looking to pick up a Miata as a weekend project car. I've fiddled around the last few years on a axle-stand basis (oil changes, strut swaps, brakes) and I've convinced myself a Miata is a decent idea. Assuming you want an NA (and you do. The head lights fold and whatnot) it would be best to go for the 96/97 version of the car, an r package or base package if you can. Most early NA owners end up swapping so much of the later cars onto their machine they would have been better off starting with it, the much-lauded extra 150 pounds goes a long way to making the car less of a rattly wet noodle, and the lower compression and taller gearing give you more headroom for the inevitable forced induction upgrade a few years down the line. Image link and bias Disclaimer, I daily drive a 96 (with almost 2 grand worth of Flyin miata goodies), although i do have a 2003 as well. Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Aug 13, 2012 |
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Aug 13, 2012 04:30
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mattdizzleZ28 posted:Assuming you want an NA (and you do. The head lights fold and whatnot) it would be best to go for the 96/97 version of the car, an r package or base package if you can. Most early NA owners end up swapping so much of the later cars onto their machine they would have been better off starting with it, the much-lauded extra 150 pounds goes a long way to making the car less of a rattly wet noodle, and the lower compression and taller gearing give you more headroom for the inevitable forced induction upgrade a few years down the line. I'd already decided on the NA. I was under the impression the 1.8 came in with the '96 revision, yet I keep seeing pre-96'ers lists with as 1.8. Are these engine swaps, or was the 1.8 installed in earlier models?
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Aug 13, 2012 13:55
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midge posted:I'd already decided on the NA. I was under the impression the 1.8 came in with the '96 revision, yet I keep seeing pre-96'ers lists with as 1.8. Are these engine swaps, or was the 1.8 installed in earlier models? 1994 was the first year of the 1.8L.
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Aug 13, 2012 13:57
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Looking at this 94 as a possible weekend/track toy http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3201098829.html $1200 is already pretty low yeah? Even given the cosmetic issues, I doubt I should even bother trying to get him any lower. That is assuming its not already sold, no response to my emails or calls yet.
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Aug 13, 2012 18:50
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From what I've seen, 1200 for a mechanically sound 94 is a great deal. I've read people picking up running Miatas for $500 or $800, but that's a fantasy for a lot of places. Around here that same Miata would be going for at least $2500.
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Aug 13, 2012 19:11
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The only $500 Miatas I can think of must have major unresolved issues (i.e. serious rust or non-running).
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Aug 14, 2012 06:41
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opengl128 posted:Looking at this 94 as a possible weekend/track toy If it runs good I would jump on that asap.
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Aug 14, 2012 07:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only $500 Miatas I can think of must have major unresolved issues (i.e. serious rust or non-running). Somehow people have no problems finding sub $500 running Miata ads to get their values for Chumpcar. There must have been 5-6 at this weekend's race.
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Aug 14, 2012 13:11
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leica posted:If it runs good I would jump on that asap. Trying to, still no response. It probably sold instantly at that price :-/
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Aug 14, 2012 14:17
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FatCow posted:Somehow people have no problems finding sub $500 running Miata ads to get their values for Chumpcar. There must have been 5-6 at this weekend's race. Ads do not always equal an actual car for sale  It'd be trivial to put up some fake Craigslist posts with email contacts only, and if the judges email them to verify... "Oh, the car sold last night"
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Aug 14, 2012 14:30
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How much of a red flag is a 5-speed swapped 10AE? I know some people like the 5-speed trans better, but my thought is to use this as a way to knock the price down
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Aug 14, 2012 16:10
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Of course originality is more desirable, and the 6 speed is a stronger tranny at high power levels. However, the 5 speed is more fun to drive, the 6 speed feels like its on a linkage.
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Aug 14, 2012 17:06
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Around town, it feels like my hand never leaves the gear shift in the 6speed.
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Aug 14, 2012 17:13
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Check the differential too, I remember at some point someone swapped everything from a 1.6 into an NB. The 6 speed transmissions usually go between 500-750 dollars. 5 speed transmissions usually sell for between 100-200 dollars. That's used, I've no idea what a new replacement would be.
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Aug 14, 2012 17:23
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So you wouldn't let that scare you off the car then? It still has the hard top and the price is good, which is why I'm inclined to ignore it. I wish it was not out of state so I wouldn't have to go do far to check it out though
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Aug 14, 2012 18:32
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mobby_6kl posted:garbage loving NB CAS sensor failures Just FYI, everyone I know who races an NB-powered Miata carries at least one spare CAS. I personally carry two or three spares. They fail on a regular basis.
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Aug 14, 2012 18:33
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Is the NB a Mitsu unit as well? Dies due to heat?
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Aug 14, 2012 19:17
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Nodoze posted:So you wouldn't let that scare you off the car then? It still has the hard top and the price is good, which is why I'm inclined to ignore it. I wish it was not out of state so I wouldn't have to go do far to check it out though No not at all. Most people would consider it a plus because the 6 speed is generally not liked. As long as it drives like it should it's not an issue unless you want the 6 speed.
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Aug 14, 2012 20:05
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opengl128 posted:Looking at this 94 as a possible weekend/track toy Whoo he finally answered his phone, its still available, going tonight with a wad of cash to buy assuming it only has cosmetic issues. I'm sort of new to Miatas, anything in particular i should look for mechanically?
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Aug 14, 2012 20:10
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opengl128 posted:Whoo he finally answered his phone, its still available, going tonight with a wad of cash to buy assuming it only has cosmetic issues. I'm sort of new to Miatas, anything in particular i should look for mechanically? Rust on the rocker panels. Walk if there is any, it's a very significant part to the structural of the chassis and is a death knell for a NA/NB unless you have a lot of time to kill and some decent welding skills. Check here bring a flashlight and a something that won't mar the paint so you can make sure it's solid with some taps. Also check the same spot on the rears.  FatCow fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Aug 14, 2012 |
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Aug 14, 2012 21:48
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opengl128 posted:Whoo he finally answered his phone, its still available, going tonight with a wad of cash to buy assuming it only has cosmetic issues. I'm sort of new to Miatas, anything in particular i should look for mechanically? Commit to memory! http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html Checklist is here : http://www.miata.net/faq/inspection_list.html
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Aug 14, 2012 21:52
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Savington posted:Just FYI, everyone I know who races an NB-powered Miata carries at least one spare CAS. I personally carry two or three spares. They fail on a regular basis. It is somehow both reassuring and maddening to learn that a $100 part that leaves you stranded randomly can be expected to fail regularly Phone posted:Is the NB a Mitsu unit as well? Dies due to heat? Yes, and apparently yes. One of my previous posts has a photo of the replacement unit I got: 
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Aug 14, 2012 23:09
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FatCow posted:Rust on the rocker panels. Walk if there is any, it's a very significant part to the structural of the chassis and is a death knell for a NA/NB unless you have a lot of time to kill and some decent welding skills. Yeah it was...pretty rough. I am fine with the mostly gone paint job, and even some surface rust on the trunk, but the interior was thrashed. Not only was there a big tear in the roof, but both windows were left down and we had some monsoon like rain storms today. The entire interior looked liked it had been filled with pond water then drained. He dropped to $1000 without me even asking, but would buying it knowing that much water has been in it, likely repeatedly, be a good idea? I know its pretty drat cheap, and I can always strip it, but it still makes me nervous there some black mold living in the seats now or something. It drove reasonably well, though I was only able to drive it for around 5 minutes at city speeds. Some minor driveline shudder, otherwise the engine and transmission sounded good. e: oh he also doesn't have the title, says they mailed it to the wrong address, and that he should have it soon. told him to call me when he gets it. he was pretty drat flakey and hard to get a hold of, so i'm fully expecting to not hear back unless I hound him again. de: I may look at this one, http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3198994764.html I know it's considerably more, but if I could get it for $3500, it seems much better sorted and about a billion times cleaner. I keep telling myself I just want a cheap project/weekend track rat, but still. Thoughts? opengl fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 03:57
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FatCow posted:Rust on the rocker panels. Walk if there is any, it's a very significant part to the structural of the chassis and is a death knell for a NA/NB unless you have a lot of time to kill and some decent welding skills. Rust on the rockers isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be, depending of course how far in it goes. If it's just on the sheet metal you can cut it out and use panel adhesive to put a new piece on. Some people prefer using adhesive to welding because welding a panel in can leave the back of it exposed to more corrosion. So unless you're matching paint it's really not a tough job, lots of people have done it and I wouldn't let it scare me away from a cheap Miata.
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Aug 15, 2012 04:33
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opengl128 posted:Yeah it was...pretty rough. I am fine with the mostly gone paint job, and even some surface rust on the trunk, but the interior was thrashed. Not only was there a big tear in the roof, but both windows were left down and we had some monsoon like rain storms today. The entire interior looked liked it had been filled with pond water then drained. I'm in the exact same boat (MIATA LOL!) that you are in right now. I want something in reasonable shape to become a project car, later becoming a track toy. Personally, I would walk away from the first one. Even for $1000 it sounds like a loving nightmare and I think we can both say that it would cost you more then $2500 in order to bring it up to the standard of the $3500 one. At face value it's bad and knowing what we know about the owner, someone that can't even be bothered to put up windows when it's raining? Yeah, gently caress that. The $3500 (and yes, he wants $3500. No one prices anything at X888) one has the rust on the rocker panels which as others have pointed out, can be the boney finger of death. If he felt so inclined to say this, why not include a picture of it? The mileage is also a bit higher than what I would want to be picking up at this cost (although, I maybe picky here since summer car mileage is far lower in Canada). Go check it out, gut feeling is important when buying poo poo. Edit : Although any advert with "SERIOUSLY ITS A NICE CAR!!!!!!" is a pretty big turn off. midge fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 14:05
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Just installed a Flyin' Miata 2.5 suspension kit last night, holy poo poo did it transform this car! 96 NA had 160k on the stock suspension and still handled pretty well on it, but the difference is incredible. And that's on lovely bald tires and without having done an alignment yet. I'm still on the stock steelies, I meant to buy some 94-97 alloys on craigslist in the spring but I was dumb and never followed up on it, of course they're nowhere to be found now in august. As soon as I find a set (anyone have spares near NH?) I'll buy a set of star specs and be ready to go!
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Aug 15, 2012 14:25
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Basically if anyone is looking to get a perfect NA, look to be spending over 5k easy. Anything under that is usually going to need $$$$ put into it to get it right so you're better off just spending it at once if you can afford it. Or if you're like me, you buy a 3k NA Miata and slowly get it up to par as you have the time/money.
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Aug 15, 2012 15:38
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Viper915 posted:Just installed a Flyin' Miata 2.5 suspension kit last night, holy poo poo did it transform this car! 96 NA had 160k on the stock suspension and still handled pretty well on it, but the difference is incredible. And that's on lovely bald tires and without having done an alignment yet. I'm still on the stock steelies, I meant to buy some 94-97 alloys on craigslist in the spring but I was dumb and never followed up on it, of course they're nowhere to be found now in august. As soon as I find a set (anyone have spares near NH?) I'll buy a set of star specs and be ready to go! How has that affected your daily/city driving? I was thinking about putting a Flyin Miata suspension on my car, but I don't want to ruin it for when I'm driving to school or work.
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Aug 15, 2012 15:48
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Mezmerized Machine posted:How has that affected your daily/city driving? I was thinking about putting a Flyin Miata suspension on my car, but I don't want to ruin it for when I'm driving to school or work. I've only had it on less than 24 hours so I'll update in a week or so after I've driven it. It's definitely stiffer than before, but not in a way that makes it harsh to drive. I can't tell if it feels stiffer than my speed3 or not, and that's on stock suspension. It actually seems to handle potholes and bumps better than before, most likely since the shocks aren't old and blown and can actually damp for once. The 2.5 kit comes with new rear mounts that add suspension travel to prevent bottoming out, which is apparently not a problem in the front. I'll check back in later and let you know how things are going!
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Aug 15, 2012 16:23
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midge posted:I'm in the exact same boat (MIATA LOL!) that you are in right now. I want something in reasonable shape to become a project car, later becoming a track toy. Well the $3500 one is sold. Take your ads down people!
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Aug 15, 2012 16:46
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Nothing is expensive on these cars, buy a cheaper one with high miles and a hard top if you're looking to track it. You can get an engine and trans for about $500 total if you look, and gut the interior anyway if you want a track car. If I had to do it over again, that's what I'd do.
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Aug 15, 2012 23:48
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I hate to have to do this, but I am moving and I need to suddenly dump my stillborn Miata project ( surprise! A project goes south in Berkeley). The thing is, I would like to sell them together, which may be a retarded idea. First on the block is the '91 LE in BRG with a hardtop. It's my daily driver, and it's pretty tired with about 295,XXX miles on the odometer. It's condition is....er...lets say "scrappy". Paint is hosed apart yet dashing, seats are hosed apart, and the exhaust is hosed beyond comprehension. Regardless, I drive it every day and back and forth from Berkeley to Sacramento every weekend and the only trouble it has given me is a leaky radiator - so, it's a runner.  The other car is a 93 with 175,XXX on the odo, and seems like it was in good condition before it got bumped on the nose. The car is whole except the interior, which has been inexplicably stripped. It starts and runs fine. The BBS meshes are lacking the center cap and are rashed, but in nice enough condition to roll with and not feel dumb. Also has a flowmaster exhaust for whatever that counts.  I got both of them basically for free, and I was just wondering what sort of price would be fair for this. I'm not looking to make a million, just work it so both parties are happy. I am absolutely terrible with trying to gauge worth. What do ya think? ursa_minor fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 01:03
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I think you could get 2 grand for the BRG even with the high miles. (a miata engine swap is almost trivially cheap at this point)
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Aug 16, 2012 01:33
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I was thinking 2k as well. There may be more cash if you fix the obvious stuff but otherwise 2k might be a good price to unload. I'd list them for a lot more to start though.
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Aug 16, 2012 02:05
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Mezmerized Machine posted:How has that affected your daily/city driving? I was thinking about putting a Flyin Miata suspension on my car, but I don't want to ruin it for when I'm driving to school or work. I have the stage 2 on mine and it's not bad. It's tighter and the ride is a bit harsher but it's what you would expect for having higher spring rates. I drive mine daily with the anti-roll bars set high on front and middle on rear and the shocks all set on 4. It's a trackdayable 'street performance' type setup.
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Aug 16, 2012 02:18
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FFFFUUU-   Are there any band-aids that will last a couple of months, or is it new top time? I tried some electrical tape but that fell right the gently caress off once it got hot. 2003 NB, stock top. Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 13:26
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ursa_minor posted:First on the block is the '91 LE in BRG with a hardtop. It's my daily driver, and it's pretty tired with about 295,XXX miles on the odometer. It's condition is....er...lets say "scrappy". Paint is hosed apart yet dashing, seats are hosed apart, and the exhaust is hosed beyond comprehension. Regardless, I drive it every day and back and forth from Berkeley to Sacramento every weekend and the only trouble it has given me is a leaky radiator - so, it's a runner. People "in the know" will be buying this car pretty much for the colour alone and to find a BRG hardtop is sweet. You could probably get ~$1000 for the hardtop alone if it's in good shape. Price on this car will be wholly dependant on the paintwork and body condition. No one is buying a 300k engine for performance. That is the '93 LE with black and red interior; (it looks like it?). Again, people maybe interested in that for the LE pieces (Interior, shift knob, BBS wheels, steering wheel) ursa_minor posted:The car is whole except the interior, which has been inexplicably stripped. Ah...someone beat me to it! midge fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 13:32
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Hey what's the going rate for a set of used 94-97 alloys? I know the daisies are cheaper, but only 5.5" compared to 6". Is this enough of a difference that I should be concerned about it? I'm planning on getting star specs which tirerack only has in 185/60r14 and 195/60r14, so I assumed I'm best off getting the 6" wheels and 195s. Tell me if I'm wrong here!
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Aug 16, 2012 17:21
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Previa_fun posted:FFFFUUU- I've heard that Tear-Aid works well enough for short periods of time. I used it once on a relatively minor spot, and it did the job. Never on anything that large, though..
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Aug 16, 2012 17:26
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So I find this : http://wwwb.autotrader.ca/a/Mazda/Miata%20MX-5/OSHAWA/Ontario/19_5840455_/?showcpo=ShowCPO ..and send an email to get more than the one line of information on the site. Here is the reply. quote:Hello , God loving drat it, a Miata scammer?! WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY Their "name" was misspelt in email address and google searching brings up this : http://www.cardpaymentoptions.com/credit-card-processors/google-checkout/ Scroll down to comments. midge fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 18:31
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