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Sir Tonk posted:It's a bit too far from me, but if anyone is near AtM/Bryan a dude is selling an old PA50 that looks to be in restorable condition. That is about 2x as much as it should cost.
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Jul 28, 2012 22:25
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ShaneB posted:That is about 2x as much as it should cost. I agree, but have never seen one in this area on CL for under $500 (they're also rare as hell around here). And besides, everyone inflates their price as they expect to be lowballed. edit The 70's Japanese motorcycles are the same way. KBB has them for around a grand in excellent condition, yet they go for that in terrible shape all day and well over $2k in good condition. Maybe in a part of the country where mopeds were actually used it'd be different, but in Texas they weren't common thirty five years ago when they were new. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jul 28, 2012 |
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Jul 28, 2012 23:15
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I paid 125 for mine with a blown out back tire. Granted mine was the 20mph bastard, but I still wouldn't think of paying 500 for a non running bike outside of a nice derbi or tsm or ltd. I'm patiently waiting for the temps to die down so I can run an appropriately aggressive jetting to see how fast I can get my kstar/destroyer/19mm phbg going. I'm topping out at 53 and change right now because I'm running the bowl dry enough to make the motor hiccup at WOT but the triple digit temps don't want to stop coming so I'll have to keep waiting. I rebuilt my hobbit up with a new DR kit, TJT, crank, 21phbg, and MLM peoples pipe and some hutchinson funzy tires but I haven't bothered to tighten everything down and wire it up because of the short wheelbase on stock hobbit setups. I guess it's time to pull the subframe back off and hack and weld the motor mounts back a few inches to make it feel more like it isn't made for a teenage girl.
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Jul 28, 2012 23:38
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30 year old Mopeds in Austin (90 min from College Station) regularly go for $750+. They aren't much cheaper in Dallas, but they're still vanishingly rare on craigslist. Austin is sort of the regional hipster capitol of the south, and Texas classifies them as motorcycles (i.e. almost nobody sells them new) so most of them were bought out of state and imported. Finding a local moped in Texas is sort of like finding a "california" rust free classic sports car for sale in Detroit, or something. They exist, but you're going to pay through the nose for "local pickup".
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Jul 29, 2012 03:46
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Don't get me wrong, craigslist prices are up the last couple years around here but I also think of it as most of the people dumb enough to pay that much for broken stuff will be trying to get rid of it and get some cash back in a little while too. Like some local ad for a maxi that started out at 1500 has dropped to 800 and possibly sold fairly recently. Whoever bought a bone stock maxi for eight bones is going to quickly find out why they got phased out for more reliable transportation like scooters and dump it off quick,
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Jul 29, 2012 07:09
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Who's still making new mopeds? I think I saw something about peugeot still being at it.
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Jul 30, 2012 16:25
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Tomos still is too.
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Aug 1, 2012 15:02
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So I got a Tomos with an A3 engine. I have a brand new exhaust as well as an HPI ignition system. There is a complete e/n thread about it, but that's not the point of this post. I want to get it running. Here is my Day 1 activity: -The bike has spark! I do have a variety of spark plugs, I tried a couple (B7HS and BR7HS) and they both gave off what I thought was equal spark. -I did a finger compression test, and the bike seems to have good compression. I couldn't hold my finger on the hole while peddling. I would still like to do a legit compression test to make sure. Would something like this work? http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html -The bike WOULD NOT start when putting fuel in the spark plug hole and attaching the spark plug. The first kick was very tough so I don't think I got a good one, but still, it just would not go. Right before it got dark, I removed the carb. It's a Dellorto 12.14B, identical to the one in the carb cleaning tutorial for the Tomos A3 on mopedarmy. Next step is to clean that this weekend. I noticed when removing it that the air filter wasn't clamped to the thingy (excuse my terminology, still learning) securely. A couple questions about the carb: There is brown grossness where the air filter came off here. Was this an old gasket or just buildup? Should I remove it?  What is this nozzle for?? It was never attached to anything when on the bike.  Also my last question. If the bike has compression and spark, should it absolutely be starting when I put gas in the spark plug hole? Thanks for any help! Any suggestions are also greatly appreciated.
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Aug 10, 2012 01:34
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Looks like you got some varnish & corrosion action going on in your carburetor.
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Aug 10, 2012 08:42
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Bsmack. heres two things to try. first that nozzle you posted a pic of is for the Tomos oil injection. the bike probably used to have. its a good idea to get ride of the oil injection anyway. and mix the gas on your own. so plug that up. find a small bolt that fits in. or plug it with anything that makes a good seal otherwise this is causing an air leak. also go get an NGK B6HS spark plug instead. a B7HS may be too cold of a spark for a stock bike. a B7 would be more for a tuned bike. I've had bikes that won't start on B7 plugs. also clean that carb super good. every little hole is important. right where all that grime is Dellorto carbs have little Idle circuits that can stop a bike from running. then report back!
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Aug 10, 2012 16:55
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bigbluetotoro posted:Bsmack. heres two things to try. first that nozzle you posted a pic of is for the Tomos oil injection. the bike probably used to have. its a good idea to get ride of the oil injection anyway. and mix the gas on your own. so plug that up. find a small bolt that fits in. or plug it with anything that makes a good seal otherwise this is causing an air leak. also go get an NGK B6HS spark plug instead. a B7HS may be too cold of a spark for a stock bike. a B7 would be more for a tuned bike. I've had bikes that won't start on B7 plugs. also clean that carb super good. every little hole is important. right where all that grime is Dellorto carbs have little Idle circuits that can stop a bike from running. then report back! Awesome. I actually have a brand new B6HS spark plug but didn't even bother to try it because I thought "hurrrr higher number better!" so I'll give that a go since it is essentially a stock bike. I'll be soaking the carb in gasoline overnight tonight and will be dousing it with carb cleaner and canned air. While I do that I'll also take the bolt/nozzle out and find an appropriate one, might even get some gasket material and use that.
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Aug 10, 2012 19:36
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bigbluetotoro posted:a B7HS may be too cold of a spark for a stock bike. a B7 would be more for a tuned bike. I've had bikes that won't start on B7 plugs. This is nonsense.
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Aug 10, 2012 20:01
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ShaneB posted:This is nonsense. I would like to know how this is nonsense. A b6 is what he should be running for his stock tomos a3. I've had bikes that won't even start on colder heat ranges. especially if he is troubleshooting he should have the proper plug in. He would probably foul the 7 if he did get it running with it anyway.
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Aug 10, 2012 22:57
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bigbluetotoro posted:I would like to know how this is nonsense. A b6 is what he should be running for his stock tomos a3. I've had bikes that won't even start on colder heat ranges. especially if he is troubleshooting he should have the proper plug in. He would probably foul the 7 if he did get it running with it anyway. First off, I think plug temperature is ludicrously over-worried about and also discussion of plug temps (and basically anything spark plug related) is one of the biggest sources of misinformation. The only thing you need to adjust plug temp for is if it fouling or pinging, and for most any moped engine the difference between a 6 and a 7 is essentially meaningless and issues would only show up over time. If you had a bike that didn't start with a colder plug in I'd be surprised if there wasn't a gap issue, because I've never had that be an issue with any bike I've ever worked on.
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Aug 10, 2012 23:45
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Yeah. I understand how the plug temp thing works. I wasn't trying to tell him to do anything to gain power or that one is better then the other. just telling him to put the proper plug in the bike if he is going to be troubleshooting. also I'm speaking right out of the box too. I wasn't about to get into gapping if he's working on a stock bike. I've had two bikes mainly with this problem. both Tomos A35s when it was still stock the difference between a B6 and B7 was immediate quarter kick. and not starting at all. when I put a 70 kit on it now runs fine only with a 7 and leans out to ashy white with a 6. also I go to a lot of rallys so this always changes depending on the altitude of the city. I was just trying to explain without going into a confusing tirade about plug temp and gapping and tuning. in my experience mopeds are picky as hell. and the spark plug does matter sometimes. I can't count how many times people have brought me non starting mopeds and the ONLY problem is the spark plug is wrong.
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Aug 11, 2012 01:54
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Day 2: Still not running  I cleaned the carb taking extra care to the problem areas that I have been told to watch for. I soaked it in gasoline over night and hit it with a TON of carb cleaner and canned air. I also drained the tank of the gas that was in it because it wasn't pre-mix. The gas came out just fine from the tubing and I didn't notice anything gross about it so I think my tank and petcock are fine. Re-assembled the carb, used the B6HS spark plug, kicked it, no go. I verified that I have a healthy spark again, but I just could not get this motor to turn over. I'm kind of at a loss. Maybe I missed something with the carb? I'm really tempted to get a compression tester but that doesn't seem to be the problem as people have said.
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Aug 11, 2012 20:48
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bigbluetotoro posted:Yeah. I understand how the plug temp thing works. I don't think you do know how the plug temp works. The plug doesn't lean or richen your mixture. The color of the end of the plug is related to the temperature of the plug. To get a reading of how rich or lean you really are(and not that accurate anyway) you need to do a plug chop and look at the base of the insulator. Like I said though, plug chops aren't that accurate anyway what with different oils doing different things to plugs to start with and then when you do one it is pretty tough to start out and maintain a certain rpm and then you would need to stop the cylinder from moving and sucking in gas as you stop to pull the plug. A hotter plug will let you run richer than ideal without fouling the plug out too fast but if you are constantly fouling out plugs, a hotter plug isn't the solution to that. I think you can't count how many times the bikes people bring you won't start because it was a b7hs and not a b6hs because the number is zero so there is nothing to count.
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Aug 11, 2012 23:42
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You replaced the points system with a new set right? Is the new one new points or a CDI. Most aftermarket CDIs have a timing mark that you have to line up with the piston being top dead center. Did this guy install the new stuff. It might not be timed right? Hmm also to check to make sure it's getting gas kick it over a few times and pull the plug out. If it is wet then There is something wrong with the spark if it's dry then he carb isn't delivering gas.
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Aug 11, 2012 23:48
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OlDirtyBehrmann posted:I think you can't count how many times the bikes people bring you won't start because it was a b7hs and not a b6hs because the number is zero so there is nothing to count. BaZing! I wasn't referring to the the B6 to B7. when I said that. I was referring to the importance of having the correct plug. there is no reason to have a B7hs in a stock bike. because you will probably foul it. I have had numerous people come to me with a non working bike. and the reason it won't start is because they have some off the rack lawnmower plug in the bike. not because its one heat rage higher. I think I understand how the plug heat range works. NGK explains it on their website. maybe I don't know everything about plugs. I'm not claiming to either. I'm sure you know as well as I that the moped world is full of misinformation. so i might just have my idea of whats happening all crossed up in that. all I know is what people have told me. and from what I've dealt with on my personal mopeds. the one I was referencing before is my Tomos I brought to a rally in Gettysburg. I fouled b7hs halfway through the ride. black and wet. I put a brand new one in. fouled it again. black and wet. I ran out of plugs. so I got a B6 from someone. rode it for ten min back to the lot and the plug was white and ashy. and yes I'm checking the correct spot on the plug. everyone I talked to said that going hotter can lean you out. maybe they were all wrong. maybe it was just the change in altitude. I 'm just confused at how it can be a cold hard fact that plug temp ranges won't change how hard it is to start a bike or change the way the engine runs. I've never been able to start one of my bikes on b8hs. I've only tried 3 times. never works. but hey maybe they were all flukes. I'm not claiming to know everything. I'm just trying to help the kid and tell him to put the right plug in his bike before he starts to troubleshoot.
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Aug 12, 2012 02:45
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bigbluetotoro posted:You replaced the points system with a new set right? Is the new one new points or a CDI. Most aftermarket CDIs have a timing mark that you have to line up with the piston being top dead center. Did this guy install the new stuff. It might not be timed right? Hmm also to check to make sure it's getting gas kick it over a few times and pull the plug out. If it is wet then There is something wrong with the spark if it's dry then he carb isn't delivering gas. This is exactly what I have: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/50163 I actually didn't mention this in the post, but I did re-time it. I can't imagine that it's off +/- 5 degrees, so it should start and that shouldn't be the problem right? I think my carb may be leaking. I ordered a new gasket for where the floater bowl is because I had difficulty sealing it. That and a new (bigger) jet because of the aftermarket exhaust and the other one was really gross.
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Aug 12, 2012 16:10
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bsmack posted:I think my carb may be leaking. I ordered a new gasket for where the floater bowl is because I had difficulty sealing it. That and a new (bigger) jet because of the aftermarket exhaust and the other one was really gross. this is the original carb that came on the bike that you are using? before you make the order check the condition of your float needle. its the little triangular needle that goes up and down, attached to the float itself, to let gas into the carb. pull it out and check the little rubber tip. if this is not perfectly pointy then that can cause a lot of problems. they tend to go bad over time. also if you didn't take it out when you cleaned the carb the first time then make sure everything in there where the needle was is super clean.
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Aug 13, 2012 00:20
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bigbluetotoro posted:they have some off the rack lawnmower plug in the bike. Haha, I can see how that would be a problem. There really should be some kind of basic maintenance test required before a person can buy or operate any motorized vehicle. I currently work at a Valvoline and get to see and hear some of the dumbest poo poo. OlDirtyBehrmann fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 17:21
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I remember a lady drove to O'Reilly and smoke was just pouring out from under her hood. Turns out she had left her oil cap on the parts counter. She picked it up and just drove away without putting it back on. I can only assume it's stuff like that you see.
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Aug 16, 2012 07:30
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I have seen someone who went about 5000 miles with the oil cap off. My favorite was a girl who went 50,000 miles on an oil change. It was a mid 90s toyota celica. The engine wasn't even knocking.
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Aug 16, 2012 13:38
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The first time I did an oil change on my car I drained the old gunk, changed the filter, filled it up with fresh oil, started the engine and let it idle for a minute.. Then spent the next hour cleaning up the oily mess in the engine bay because I had forgotten to replace the filler cap. 
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Aug 16, 2012 16:01
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Day 3: Still no run I rebuilt the carb again with a new jet (54) and also a new gasket for where the bowl is. Cleaned it all again, put everything back together, kicked it, no go. I played with the throttle cable a little bit to make sure it was working and verified it was opening and closing the gate fine. What isn't working fine is the spring lever thing on the side of the carb. What is it for? I can click it in, sometimes when I go WOT it releases but very rarely. My guess is it SHOULD be releasing all the time when going WOT. Do I need to have it clicked in/unclicked when starting the bike? Also, exactly how well should fuel be gushing out if the tube is just loose? I'm planning on cleaning the petcock tomorrow, as it stands right now, it's a stream, but not a gushing stream or anything. The best analogy I can come up with is it's maybe the equivalent of the last couple of seconds when you're peeing. EDIT: I figured out that it's the choke lever. When I'm kickstarting the bike should this be engaged? Should I be giving the bike any throttle when attempting to kickstart it, should I be going WOT simultaneously when starting it or only give it a little bit of gas? bsmack fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 01:06
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bsmack posted:Day 3: Still no run My petcock on my engine feeds at the same rate. So long as your engine doesn't drink more fuel than the petcock pours which you should be able to notice when at WOT when you're using the most fuel you can. I can't speak for your engine, but mine likes a little throttle when starting, just barely a twist of the grip. Some engines are quirky in old age. Of all the mopeds I've had only one that liked to have a choking to start. myself, I wouldn't be playing around with jets till I could at least get it to sort of run or as a last resort because it won't start.
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Aug 19, 2012 06:43
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I'm loving pumped to go to Columbia, MO this weekend for the rally. I missed last years and am jonesin for some great back road adventures. I'm gonna bring my one man tent and air mattress and sleep on the side of the road in some wooded redneck mating grounds if I have to. Or I'll probably be too drunk to go anywhere and sleep in the parking lot at the shop.
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Aug 20, 2012 22:10
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Gravel is pretty comfy when you're drunk enough.
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Aug 21, 2012 09:07
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A little update on my research into my Tomos' actual speed. Stock mopeds should not go much faster than 45km/h in my country. Or not faster than 25km/h if you don't wanna wear a helmet. It turns out many GPS sites give very different speed results from uploading the same gpx file. http://mapmyride.com gives me a max speed of 38km/h The GPS tool on my phone, Open GPS Tracker, says my maximum speed was 48.96km/h, far more reasonable. http://utrack.crempa.net/ says it's 51.6km/h, which is even higher. The difference between 38 and 51.6 km/h is pretty high though.
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Aug 22, 2012 16:13
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I finally got around to molesting on old Puch two shoe clutch. I added an Atomic brace and lightened the shoes to 74 grams to start with. Added the kickstart springs. They are ridiculously thick compared to the stock ones or even the blue/paz springs.
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Sep 5, 2012 00:20
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Found an ad for a Columbia Medallion for sale for $200. Making it go not slow would require the Athena 80cc reed kit and other stuff, but it'd be fun just to fool around on as is. Plus I could legally take it onto the MKT Trail as long as I don't turn it on. Is this a horrid idea?
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Sep 18, 2012 06:58
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So I'm still relatively new to wrenching but I've fixed up and modified a couple mopeds now. I've worked on a magnum and a derbi. I am looking into picking up a peugeot 103 and was wondering if anyone had any insight as to these bikes, I literally know nothing outside of what moped army can tell me. Also, first post in this thread, this thread rules.
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Sep 22, 2012 02:32
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ScienceAndMusic posted:I am looking into picking up a peugeot 103 Run OK actually they can be fast and awesome, but are French and finicky and can blow the hell up. I have a love-hate relationship with French bikes and generally prefer to avoid them for other variated bikes like Hobbits.
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Sep 23, 2012 06:08
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ShaneB posted:Run Picked it up and did something incredibly stupid. I know nothing and I was full throttling down a hill and pushed the bike about 5 mph past its top on flat. Apparently this is a terrible thing and I may have seriously damaged the engine. I feel like such an idiot
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Sep 23, 2012 11:48
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A french engine will blow up fine on its own, there's no need to encourage it.
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Sep 24, 2012 09:51
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Going full throttle downhill is fine unless you have an airleak or are poorly jetted or run out of gas and seize downhill(seen it happen).
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Sep 24, 2012 19:03
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Well I'm gonna wait to ride it till I can take a look inside the engine.
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Sep 25, 2012 00:53
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EDIT: oops for some reason I read that as meaning "I won't look at the engine until I ride it."
Rugoberta Munchu fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 06:53
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^^^ Gotcha.Rugoberta Munchu posted:That doesn't make any sense. Why so? With my old derbi I was riding it because I thought the engine was OK but it turned out I had really done some damage to it by riding it without looking at the engine. ScienceAndMusic fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 07:05
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