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I'm sure we're only seeing one section of it but that is truly awesome. I love that favela/shanty town section!
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Aug 21, 2012 10:59
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Thanks, y'all. Taking good pictures has always been the hard part with this thing, but I guess we're supposed to get the chance to do some well lit ones before we drop it off at the store. I'll post some final ones then.
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Aug 21, 2012 17:28
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I'm thinking of buying a cheap ultrasonic cleaner for stripping minis instead of trying to reach everything with a toothbrush. Are they good when it comes to cleaning the smallest details, or am I better off with scrubbing by hand?
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Aug 21, 2012 18:34
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I've actually had good luck with one of those "water pick" teeth cleaner things. Basically a miniature-scale pressure washer.
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Aug 21, 2012 18:43
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Pierzak posted:I'm thinking of buying a cheap ultrasonic cleaner for stripping minis instead of trying to reach everything with a toothbrush. Are they good when it comes to cleaning the smallest details, or am I better off with scrubbing by hand? If you have any specific questions, let me know.
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Aug 21, 2012 19:04
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berzerkmonkey posted:If you have any specific questions, let me know.
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Aug 21, 2012 19:17
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As you will see in part two tomorrow (I haven't finished writing it up), the results are pretty drat good. Long story short, with two cycles of 480 seconds each, with a scrub after each cycle, the models are almost completely clean. You're still going to have to scrub, but the time is reduced and I thought it was easier. I don't think there are many options out there where you don't have to work a bit for good results.
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Aug 21, 2012 19:35
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PaintVagrant posted:Crosspost from WM/H thread: A little late but goddamn that's a fine looking gaspy.
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Aug 21, 2012 20:19
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berzerkmonkey posted:As you will see in part two tomorrow (I haven't finished writing it up), the results are pretty drat good. Long story short, with two cycles of 480 seconds each, with a scrub after each cycle, the models are almost completely clean.
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Aug 21, 2012 20:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:You are in luck! I just came here to post that I did a writeup on an ultrasonic cleaner I just bought - I did it up on my blog because I didn't feel like reposting on every single forum I frequent. You can read part one here: http://directfire.blogspot.com/. Parts 2 and 3 will be up in the next couple of days, as time permits. You've got the same model as I have. Pro cleaning buddies. Typically I soak the models in the cleaning agent for an hour or two before putting them into the sonic bath with just water, or water mixed with a little bit of Vallejo cleaner. That's only because I've heard that the sonic bath works better with water as opposed to thicker liquids, but I'm not sure whether that's actually true or not. The heat function can help take the paint off, and is an absolute godsend when straightening bits of Finecast.
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Aug 21, 2012 20:44
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You've got the same model as I have. Pro cleaning buddies.  I'll have to try it with just water - I assumed that having a cleaning agent would help with the process, but maybe it's just the sonic action/magic doing all the work. I'm guessing you get good results? Have you tried to strip any Forge World yet?
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Aug 21, 2012 20:55
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I haven't tried it on any Forgeworld stuff that I can remember, but I'd imagine that it will work well enough. It certainly works a treat on plastic and metal.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:01
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Who was the cool dude using Halfords Red Primer to base his/her stuff? I'm thinking of using it for some quick and dirty Blood Angels but could use some photos of the colour it ends up as.
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Aug 21, 2012 23:07
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You might be thinking of me...I bought a can of it but ended up using Army Painter black primer and GW Khorne Red base paint for my Khorne Berzerkers. I might try it for my next group of normal tactical marines, since I have the can still. I have an offer for any UK goons in the Burton/Derby/Notts area: I have a gigantic bag of kiln-dried sand that anyone is welcome too, just bring a bag, can or bucket and you can have what you need. I have far more than I need, and this is the good, fine-grade stuff. It's been stored inside since I got it so it's still bone-dry.
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Aug 21, 2012 23:26
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ijyt posted:Who was the cool dude using Halfords Red Primer to base his/her stuff? I'm thinking of using it for some quick and dirty Blood Angels but could use some photos of the colour it ends up as. I think that was Krushgroove  KG get your arse out of the F1 thread and come hereEdit: that's what I get for waiting to hit post 
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Aug 21, 2012 23:29
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Ha, I spend more time in the painting and 40k threads these days than F1!
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Aug 21, 2012 23:42
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Ah cool, hit me up with a PM if you end up spraying 'em with it.
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Aug 22, 2012 00:48
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I definitely will be using it, I'll take progress pictures and everything if you want.
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Aug 22, 2012 00:55
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First time I've painted in 2 months, be gentle   Did this for a friend of mine, who is doing black trolls instead of the standard scheme. It was a lot of fun!
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Aug 22, 2012 03:22
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Barrels. Barrels. BARRELS. Looks good otherwise.
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Aug 22, 2012 03:51
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Sole.Sushi posted:Barrels. Barrels. BARRELS. I loving suck at drilling metal.
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Aug 22, 2012 04:00
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crime fighting hog posted:I loving suck at drilling metal. Painted black circles are better than nothing.
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Aug 22, 2012 04:13
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Indolent Bastard posted:Painted black circles are better than nothing. I literally just did this with a sharpie. I'm surprised how much better it looks.
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Aug 22, 2012 04:21
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"Paint me like one of your French girls..." That's pretty as gently caress. Did you feel weird about painting one soul cage in particular? Or was that just me...
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Aug 22, 2012 04:23
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Does anyone know of a company that makes like cloth tabards or loincloths that fit on space marines? I've checked the usual places like Scibor, Maxmini, and Puppetswar but didn't see any, and trying to find individual space marine legs set up like that is both time-consuming and expensive as hell. Any ideas?
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Aug 22, 2012 04:49
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http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_71&product_id=52 http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_71&product_id=76 http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_71&product_id=81
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Aug 22, 2012 05:04
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Managed to salvage the boat I was making. Used the heat gun on the plasticard to get it to bend nicely, chopped out the chunky parts, and then covered it in really thin slices of wood, like how they make model ships. It is a bit lopsided, as I took it off my shaper a little too soon, and in covering up some parts with the wood it kind of warped it a little. However, this can all be covered up. I have the basic shape and the wood panels make it look boat like. Having googled around, and wanting something cool looking, I found a basic sketch design for the Clash of the Titans before they went for the huge barge seen in the recent movie.  I am liking the look of it. Now I have the boat here with me, I think it might be a little small for Charon from the Helldorado range. Might need to scratch build something, not sure. I'll check out my Charon figure, but it's not a small miniature.
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Aug 22, 2012 14:35
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Have any Goons got any tips for cutting down a slot tab into a pin? I've used cutters to cut it down tot he foot but filing this down to size is going to take hours it feels like.
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Aug 22, 2012 22:24
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Flipswitch posted:Have any Goons got any tips for cutting down a slot tab into a pin? I've used cutters to cut it down tot he foot but filing this down to size is going to take hours it feels like. Does it have to be as thin as a pin, or can you just widen the hole into which you're slotting the foot?
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Aug 22, 2012 22:28
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Flipswitch posted:Have any Goons got any tips for cutting down a slot tab into a pin? I've used cutters to cut it down tot he foot but filing this down to size is going to take hours it feels like. Cut the whole thing off and use a real pin?
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Aug 22, 2012 23:01
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Battlewagon is coming along... Got the deffrolla sprue ordered which leaves me with doing the top plates on the side panels and then the wonderful riveting task.
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Aug 22, 2012 23:13
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Fix posted:Does it have to be as thin as a pin, or can you just widen the hole into which you're slotting the foot? Eyespy posted:Cut the whole thing off and use a real pin? 
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Aug 22, 2012 23:27
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Eyespy posted:Cut the whole thing off and use a real pin? This is usually the best option.
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Aug 22, 2012 23:28
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Flipswitch posted:Have any Goons got any tips for cutting down a slot tab into a pin? I've used cutters to cut it down tot he foot but filing this down to size is going to take hours it feels like. Try a metal file, or a dremel tool with one of those sanding bits.
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Aug 22, 2012 23:30
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What I did with several of my Colette crew figures was to leave some width to the tab, and cut a notch for the tab into one of the planks on the base. Also, I made the base plank by plank. And I still need to in and gapfill where the tab slots in. Moral of the story: Augh gently caress those feet are so tiny!
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Aug 22, 2012 23:33
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Many malifaux figs, particularly women, are a goddamn beast to assemble, often for no particularly obvious reason.
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Aug 23, 2012 00:26
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Has anyone else participated in the Kickstarter for Reaper Miniatures? I just found out about it yesterday through friends and we are planning to pick up base paints along with close to two hundred plastic minis. I am fairly new to minis, but is there a consensus among goons with regards to the plastic used for these minis? I tried painting a Bones mini at gencon, and aside from a little soft and rubbery I didn't have any complaints.
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Aug 23, 2012 00:37
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Haha, see why it's useless to try to segregate the Kickstarter talk?  It's just going to come up constantly. Not your fault Weirdo, we have been drooling over this off and on over the past few weeks. I think the consensus from people who've handled the minis is that the plastic should be fine and even resist breaking from drops. There's quite a lot of us that are signed up for it, it's a spectacular deal, even with international shipping. I'm trying to hold off adding the Nethermaul to my list but I don't think I can hold out.
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Aug 23, 2012 00:52
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I have a couple bones minis already and yeah, they're soft. In fact, my whispy ghost dude can touch his head to his rear end, no problem. However, I have yet to paint any of them and I'm curious if anyone knows how the paint holds up to being flexed, since some of the thinner minis will flex just with regular handling.
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Aug 23, 2012 00:57
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:02 |
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If paint flex is the question, I have a basically neverending supply of polycarbonate sheets (about 1.5-2mm thick) available to me, and I use some of those last week to try painting some lake/pond 'terrain' (basically painting one side and leaving the other side alone so it would reflect like a still pond would. I used Vallejo paint and Flow Improver to do a half-assed wet blend (didn't come out well) and I can bend and twist the plastic sheet a week later without any cracking or anything. It's perfectly fine. My tester ponds are about 8-10 inches long so I think a much less flexible model 1 or 2 inches high will be fine.
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Aug 23, 2012 01:13
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