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Seat Safety Switch posted:Probably a short in the headlight harness. Assuming you have a poo poo ton of fuses on hand, try removing one of the parking light bulbs and see if it stops blowing fuses to figure out where in the harness it might be. Turns out is was the current owner. I had taped off the license plate wires for painting, and the leads were taped together. Your tip figured it out for me though.
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Aug 19, 2012 14:44
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daslog posted:Turns out is was the current owner. Gotta watch out for those current owners...
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Aug 19, 2012 16:54
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Ha ha, "current." So I pulled the old plugs out of my '97 and put new plugs in and man is that ever an improvement. More torque and horsepower at every rev and the warbling engine note above 5k is completely gone. I'm kicking myself for not having done it earlier. All four plugs are pretty black with the electrode almost completely eroded. Unfortunately the compression test didn't come back so nice. With the throttle closed it was 180, 178, 150 and 191 PSI respectively. Not sure why #3 is so low, I'm guessing it needs a valve adjustment as the engine cranking sounded noticeably different when I was testing that plug. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Aug 19, 2012 |
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Aug 19, 2012 17:07
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Got an alignment this last week, and the guy told me one of the rears couldn't be adjusted and was completely frozen and would probably need to be replaced. Since he didn't tell me which, and since he didn't write it on the alignment sheet, I need to know which of these bits it is that I need to be ordering. This is the alignment sheet, for the record:  I acknowledge I should have done this much sooner, as with most things having to do with my car, but starving artist/college student/blah blah.
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Aug 19, 2012 23:28
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My legacy has a similar issue on that corner. That parts diagram does not look like the correct diagram for an 00-04 legacy, unless the wagons are different from sedans.
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Aug 19, 2012 23:50
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Slow is Fast posted:My legacy has a similar issue on that corner. You have a GT, don't you? The suspension is a bit different if I remember right. That's the diagram from subarugenuieparts.
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Aug 19, 2012 23:56
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The Jabberwocky posted:You have a GT, don't you? The suspension is a bit different if I remember right. That's the diagram from subarugenuieparts. Yeah, mines a GT. Shouldn't matter too much, the link design should be the same. They're a weird rear end multilink setup. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_19/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/
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Aug 20, 2012 00:04
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The Jabberwocky posted:Got an alignment this last week, and the guy told me one of the rears couldn't be adjusted and was completely frozen and would probably need to be replaced. Since he didn't tell me which, and since he didn't write it on the alignment sheet, I need to know which of these bits it is that I need to be ordering. Pretty sure what you want is the lateral link. If it's the stock one (non-adjustable) and the toe is that far out of wack then it's likely bent. #6 in the diagram you posted looks to be the correct one. That said if the before and after are correct your alignment guy basically did nothing to your alignment... Your front camber is really really low, I hope you enjoy understeer.
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Aug 20, 2012 01:26
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Amandyke posted:Pretty sure what you want is the lateral link. If it's the stock one (non-adjustable) and the toe is that far out of wack then it's likely bent. #6 in the diagram you posted looks to be the correct one. That said if the before and after are correct your alignment guy basically did nothing to your alignment... Your front camber is really really low, I hope you enjoy understeer. Whiteline makes really nice adjustable lat links for Subarus. Had a set in my '98 LGT which made for adjustable toe in the rear (yay).
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Aug 20, 2012 01:51
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Edit: ^^ this was my other question, and I'm sure Jamal has a good answer and a price tag to share with me  Amandyke posted:Pretty sure what you want is the lateral link. If it's the stock one (non-adjustable) and the toe is that far out of wack then it's likely bent. #6 in the diagram you posted looks to be the correct one. That said if the before and after are correct your alignment guy basically did nothing to your alignment... Your front camber is really really low, I hope you enjoy understeer. Yeah, I was just going to replace both sides of whatever was goofy, I just didn't get a great description of what the problem was from the guy. It was Firestone, and I got a lifetime alignment, so I'll just take it back with new links and get them to do it right for free. Out of curiosity (and since I know jack poo poo about this, obviously) what should I request next time as far as numbers there? Here's the opposed forces version of that diagram. I think you're saying part #11 there, which is #20250AE01A. Should I replace anything else with that? 
The Jabberwocky fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Aug 20, 2012 |
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Aug 20, 2012 01:54
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You shouldn't need the whole link, just the hardware for bolt 6 and possibly a new bushing. What tends to happen is that the bolt seizes inside the sleeve of the bushing. I've had to cut that out twice: Whiteline does make a set of replacement links: http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA124 kind of pricey though. New hardware and a sawzall would probably be the best way to go.
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Aug 20, 2012 02:23
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jamal posted:You shouldn't need the whole link, just the hardware for bolt 6 and possibly a new bushing. What tends to happen is that the bolt seizes inside the sleeve of the bushing. I've had to cut that out twice: If the link is bent, is there a downside (other than the price) to doing the whitelines? Swapping the suspension over to coilovers is the next thing on my list, anyway and it would be nice to have more adjustment options down the line. Overkill is the best kind of kill. Or something like that.
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Aug 20, 2012 03:46
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No, they are good parts, give you more camber and toe adjustment, and get you stiffer bushings in most of the rear suspension. Plus that's MSRP listed on there. None of my distributors have them in stock though so I'll have to check tomorrow and make sure whiteline usa has some.
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Aug 20, 2012 04:06
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Second gen legacys and impreza links are different from third gens (00-04)
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Aug 20, 2012 12:31
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Yeah the parts I linked to are for the 00-09 Legacy (they don't fit a 3rd gen Impreza). My car is different but essentially the same thing happened.
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Aug 20, 2012 17:58
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The 3" exhaust fart Muffler can on my Impreza is way too loud. I have a Mig welder and like to build my own things. Has anyone here ever made (or heard of) someone making a catback exhaust on their own? I would have to use pipe bends from Autozone. Edit: Will a 2004 WRX catback fit on it? I have one of those laying around here. daslog fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Aug 20, 2012 |
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Aug 20, 2012 19:17
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 Shell Rotella T6 is cool.
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Aug 21, 2012 04:10
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I JUST did an oil change with the same stuff. It had been a long time since my last one and I wish I'd sent some in. I'd say 9-10k. I should pay more attention to that but I put way more miles on my bike than the car these days.
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Aug 21, 2012 04:25
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I'm really considering switching from Motul 8100 to T6 in the WRX; I'm already running T6 in the Outback Sport (a waste, I know, but it slows the leaking for some reason). It even smells good.
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Aug 21, 2012 15:25
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Would this work in a 2004 WRX? Good idea or bad idea? http://worcester.craigslist.org/ptd/3196088517.html
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Aug 21, 2012 16:26
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It'll work but you'll be doing some wiring for AVCS at least.
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Aug 21, 2012 16:59
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I've been using T6 on my '02 for awhile now. 116k miles and no engine issues. I'll switch to T6 in the '11 after the warranty period is up. I don't want to stray from the required 5w30 weight in case I have any issues. I don't want to give any reason to deny a warranty claim.
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Aug 21, 2012 17:28
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I killed my 2001 Volvo XC70 a couple weeks ago and am pretty interested in replacing it with a Subaru. I'm in the "learn as much as possible" phase right now since I don't know a lot about them. Things I'm looking for: - Wagon style, similar to my old XC70 - Comfortable (my XC70 had the best seats ever) - Newer, but not brand new from the dealer - Auto since I don't want to mess with a manual - I tend to do a lot of outdoor stuff, so I often end up on dirt/gravel roads and want decent suspension and clearance. - I don't plan on any racing, but I love working on cars, so I'd like something that has room for upgrades to get more HP and general fun out of the car. I'm thinking something in the Outback line, but don't know enough to be sure yet. Are there generations/models to avoid at all costs and others to seek out? Where should I start looking? Thanks for the help, I need to get a new (for me) car ASAP, but don't want to rush in to a dealership as clueless as I am right now. I'm sure some/all of this is buried in this massive thread somewhere, but I haven't made it through all 300 some pages yet. Hillridge fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Aug 21, 2012 |
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Aug 21, 2012 17:46
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What year(s) Subaru are you considering? Having just gone from a '99 Forester S to a '96 Volvo 850 wagon (the Forester is in the care of another family member), I can tell you that the Subie will be a step down comfort wise, especially in the seat department. Newer Subies may be more comfortable, I don't know. However, any Subaru should be able to meet your other requirements just fine, I really liked driving mine.
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Aug 21, 2012 17:55
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I don't really have a particular year in mind other than getting something that will last me a bit. I'm going to look at Volvos too, but I feel like I can get more value out of a Subie, and I've always had Volvos ('86 640, '97 940GLE, '99 S80, '01 XC70) so a change might be fun. If I did a new XC70 it would have to be a 2008 or newer since I hated how my second gen one ate control arm bushings every year.
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Aug 21, 2012 18:04
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Sounds like you want an Outback, Legacy wagon, or maybe a Forester. I believe the more recent versions of all these cars have leather trim options and interiors that are a big improvement from the older models Terrible Robot mentioned. A big decision to make is whether you want a turbo or not (get a turbo  ). The turbo models are significantly faster stock, and have more potential for future upgrades (correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe in some cases the turbo models handle better out of the box than the NAs as well). If you want a turbo, look at Legacy GTs and Outback/Forester XTs, otherwise look at the 2.5i models. One thing to note, I believe 2007 is the last year Legacies were available as wagons in the US. After that all wagons are Outbacks.As far as Outback vs Legacy goes, the Legacy will handle better on the street and has better brakes, while the Outback has a higher ride height. I believe the 5th gen outbacks (2010+) are also significantly bigger. That said, the stock Legacy ride height isn't super low either, so unless you're planning on some serious business offroading, you may not need the increased clearance of the Outback. A Legacy will be OK on typical dirt/gravel roads you encounter on the way to some outdoor activities.
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Aug 21, 2012 19:06
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I've got a new Outback, and it straddles the line between a station wagon and an SUV. It's comfy, immensely practical, and has been rock solid thus far (5000-some miles, excepting a bad battery which Subaru replaced with no issues). It's big, much bigger than previous generation Outbacks, and longer than a Forester. The only thing that might make it worse off-road than a Grand Cherokee is the front overhang.
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Aug 21, 2012 19:14
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Splinter posted:A big decision to make is whether you want a turbo or not (get a turbo The turbos also have a terrible failure rate
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Aug 21, 2012 20:50
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Safety Dance posted:I've got a new Outback, and it straddles the line between a station wagon and an SUV. It's comfy, immensely practical, and has been rock solid thus far (5000-some miles, excepting a bad battery which Subaru replaced with no issues). It's big, much bigger than previous generation Outbacks, and longer than a Forester. If you go back a generation on them you get a bit more station wagon and a bit less size, too. My wife's 08 2.5i has been extremely reliable (125k and nothing other than routine maintenance.) It's very comfy, has a good ride height without being overly squishy if you drive it hard occasionally, and has a fair amount of power. I've heard ok reviews of the H6, too if you want to go the NA route and want more power.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:56
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Real oddball question for you all. My Forester ('04 XT) has a leak somewhere towards the back that, whenever it rains a lot, fills the spare tire well with water. Short of tearing it all apart, I can't find where the water may be coming in from. the seals on the liftgate appear fine, and none of the carpeting or headliner is showing any evidence of water damage or dampness during a rain. This is happening while the vehicle is parked. Are there common points on these things where water will get in? Right now I'm just leaving the drain plug out until I can find the leak.
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Aug 21, 2012 22:12
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Time for round 2. Got this engine and a door that matches my car with less big dents in it for $295.  Cracked a tail light putting the door in the car so I got one of those too for $25.  Oh yea and a warranty on the engine this time.
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Aug 21, 2012 22:43
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I don't post in here very much at all as it is way out of my comfort zone of knowledge but I just wanted to poke my head back in to say that I ordered an AP and a cold air box from Jamal for my '12 STi sedan. I've been wanting these parts since I bought the car and I magically just got the exact amount of money for both as a graduation gift so gently caress it...I earned this. Now I just have to figure out how to get it all in my car  No seriously, I'm pretty smart about some things and really dumb about others. This is one of the others.
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Aug 21, 2012 23:59
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After trading in my MY08 WRX for a Kia Optima in March 2011, i couldn't take it anymore and have traded the Kia in for an auto 2009 Legacy GT Wagon (BP9). Picking up the car later today. Turns out the previous owner used the same tuner that i did for my wrx, so i know it's got a safe tune but will probably get it toned down a little until i sort out any reliability issues. The car is running with a Zage 20g, AVO top mount, forged pistons/rods, meth injection and apparently puts down about 280 whp, but does not have any cooling mods(!). The car is also fitted with Rotoras and Bilsteins, not sure about any other handling/chassis mods but i'll have a better look once it's up on the lift. Once i pick it up later i'm heading straight to the workshop to get the fluids changed, plugs checked, a new battery and install an ATF cooler. I'm also researching radiator upgrades. The common brands here are Koyo and Mishimoto, does anyone have any experience with either of these brands or any other recommendations? Pics taken off our local classifieds:    
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Aug 22, 2012 02:48
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Hillridge posted:I don't really have a particular year in mind other than getting something that will last me a bit. I'm going to look at Volvos too, but I feel like I can get more value out of a Subie, and I've always had Volvos ('86 640, '97 940GLE, '99 S80, '01 XC70) so a change might be fun. If I did a new XC70 it would have to be a 2008 or newer since I hated how my second gen one ate control arm bushings every year. The later Legacy Wagons had some pretty good seats with perf. leather, etc. I think they were only discontinued in the 2008 MY.
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Aug 22, 2012 04:15
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raffie posted:Turns out the previous owner used the same tuner that i did for my wrx, so i know it's got a safe tune but will probably get it toned down a little until i sort out any reliability issues. The car is running with a Zage 20g, AVO top mount, forged pistons/rods, meth injection and apparently puts down about 280 whp, but does not have any cooling mods(!). What makes you think you need upgraded cooling? Are you going to turn this into a race car? I make that much power on my 03 wrx and have zero issues with a completely stock cooling system. I've never seen my temperature gauge go above what is the normal operating temperature even when flogging the car on a hot day.
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Aug 22, 2012 04:28
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One of my friends suggested that I try and find a fourth gen outback legacy wagon. His reasoning: They have a full time AWD with very smart traction control. The XT starts at 250 hp and can easily get up to 300 with a tune and exhaust. Throw in a turbo and injectors and 400 is doable. He also suggested getting an accessport and mentioned that http://www.get-primitive.com/ primitive has full under armor for 300 dollars (he's into Rally) Is there such a thing as an outback legacy or is that the same as an Outback? I'm thinking he meant I would like either a Legacy or an Outback. The 4th gen outbacks go until '09 right? Hillridge fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Aug 22, 2012 |
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Aug 22, 2012 16:37
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There's no legacy outback anymore so he probably meant legacy or outback or was confused. Yeah, 4th Gen went through 2009 for both outbacks and legacys, but if you're in the US I don't think you'll find any legacy wagons newer than 2007. For the legacy, the GT is similar to the XT in HP.
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Aug 22, 2012 17:06
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Double post. Awful app ruining my day Splinter fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Aug 22, 2012 |
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Aug 22, 2012 17:16
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And again. Splinter fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Aug 22, 2012 |
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Aug 22, 2012 17:17
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Amandyke posted:What makes you think you need upgraded cooling? Are you going to turn this into a race car? I make that much power on my 03 wrx and have zero issues with a completely stock cooling system. I've never seen my temperature gauge go above what is the normal operating temperature even when flogging the car on a hot day. I live pretty much on the equator (singapore) so it's hot with high humidity all day and night, all year round. The car has a rebuilt gearbox, the old one seized on the PO during a driving trip allegedly due to the ATF overheating. I don't think he was running a cooler at the time (and was apparently ignoring any warnings) but i just found out that the car has one installed now after the rebuild. I moved up to Malaysia a few weeks ago to run our new branch office there, so i'll be driving up and down between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore pretty regularly. It's about 200 miles one way and if traffic is light on the highway the cruising speeds can be quite high for long stretches. I'd rather play it safe with the cooling as i usually do the whole trip without stops. The tuner's advice is that the stock rad is fine for now so i'll the leaving that alone for the time being. In other news, there are two separate sounds from the front end, a knocking (likely from the coilovers) and what sounds like the driveshafts on the way out when i'm turning the wheel at low speeds. I'll get these checked out the next time i'm back in town as i'm heading back to malaysia on my bike tomorrow. Only had time to get the engine oil and ATF changed after collecting the car today.
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Aug 22, 2012 17:23
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