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They're too uncommon imo to get solid prices aside from the DRZ's. A 625 or a converted 525 will pop up now and again but they're all in different shape, have different mods, have been tracked, etc. It's pretty hard to nail down a price especially when the owner thinks he's God because he bought a used set of Warp9's and slapped them on dirtbike and then titled it. I think if you paid 3500 for that bike it'd be fair. It's not the deal of the century but you can probably ride it a while and sell it off for what you paid for it. I don't think it has a slipper clutch unless I misread so you won't be tempted to go all out with it burning off tires so the set should last a little while depending on what you got. Do you plan on tracking it?
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Aug 22, 2012 15:43
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Eventually I'd just like to do track days, but I need to get some street riding under my belt, first. And I think you're right about it not having a slipper clutch. That sure would be nice to have. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Aug 22, 2012 |
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Aug 22, 2012 16:39
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My DRZ400 needs a new chain, any recommendations? Edit: Oh, I guess I need some other tools to do this as well. Motorcycle repair seems to be expensive the first time you do each thing, getting all these tools is pricey. Resource fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 23, 2012 |
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Aug 23, 2012 03:34
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So,   I want a supermoto at some point, but I am wee and it looks like that'll be a problem. Is it possible to lower it so I'm not hanging my entire rear end off the side at stoplights? I wanna hoon 
An observer fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Aug 23, 2012 |
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Aug 23, 2012 03:47
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Those diagrams might not include the way the bike sits lower when you are actually sitting on it. It's going to sink a lot with the suspension compressed under the load of your meaty body. Also: hanging off the seat at stoplights is not the end of the world. Certainly a price worth paying to have a sumo.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:03
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Yeah, unless you weigh 80lbs, I'd be seriously surprised if you couldnt touch the ground on both of those bikes.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:04
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I'm 110. Not entirely a twig, but also possibly not meaty enough. I've even had trouble lowering some office chairs  It's definitely not enough to stop me from getting one, just figured I'd pop in and ask.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:08
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An observer posted:I'm 110. Not entirely a twig, but also possibly not meaty enough. I've even had trouble lowering some office chairs If you're desperate for sumotery, you can get lowering links / springs that will drop the seat height.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:11
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Safety Dance posted:If you're desperate for sumotery, you can get lowering links / springs that will drop the seat height. Psh, or you could just fatten up a little. You know, whatever you want to do.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:13
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Resource posted:Psh, or you could just fatten up a little. You know, whatever you want to do. I used to think my KLR650 was a little tall until I started wearing a couple of 25 pound bar weights under my armor.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:14
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For the record, that's a twig. But yes sumos are awesome.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:15
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Not really, for a woman anyway 
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Aug 23, 2012 04:17
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After a bunch more reading and thinking I don’t think the DRZ400 is right SM for me. I worry that is will not have enough pep. Seems like the DRZ needs $1000+ minimum to make it quick. If I am getting a second bike for fun it needs to be unreasonably fast ….well, at least faster than a stock DRZ400  I learned to ride long ago as a teenager on a 1980 2 stroke Yamaha 400 enduro and I guess I am chasing that feeling. Think at this point I will go back to saving cash and waiting until next spring. Any other Cycle asylum approved SMs to think about? I hear a Husqvarna 610sm is a pretty great, fast, and reliable bike and I now want one. Howerver, I don’t think it would be easy to find one. I the 690 KTM is awesome but way too much money and also hard to find. I think I am leaning toward a late model WR450 or ?? (are Hondas any good for conversion?), other than wheels / tires / brakes / chain what else would one do to convert a WR450 to a sumo? Colorado is supposed to be an easy state for getting road plates so I am not too worried about that. Is $1000 - $1200 a reasonable budget for a conversion? I am looking to get away with a $3500 - $4500 total budget. Sorry for the rambling post, I am still reading lots of thumper talk and supermotojunkie and this thread from the start to get educated in the ways of ridiculous wheeley machines.
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Aug 23, 2012 04:58
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Full on sumo's are a lot more fun but I don't think at this point in my life I could live with the "time bomb" kind of ride. You can definitely convert for 1-1.2k I'd think, especially buying used wheels. Tires will cost you a bit more. No idea how much titling costs though - you will most likely have to pay sales tax on the bike plus whatever it costs to get your vehicle plated through whatever loopholes occur there. The beauty of DRZ's is in buying a bike for 3-4k that some poor fool has already dumped the money into. Most people immediately spring for the Yosh pipe and free mods, rejet, air filter, maybe better tires, levers, foot pegs, a new seat, etc. They eventually spring for a carb if they're really into the bike. These are the nice ones to grab as they've already dumped a grand ++ into it and are ready to get out from under it. Yeah they might only have like 40hp instead of 60 but there's really no maintenance issues honestly. 450's are a ton of fun but they're going to be more peaky and you'll have to keep up on the valve checks and such so it doesn't get out of hand. If you don't depend on the bike 100% and aren't going to commute in 50 miles a day on it I say go for it, it's definitely worth it if all you plan to do is hoon + trackdays, etc. You can grab an old CRF but the very earliest ones had some valve issues (they've probably been replaced by now with stainless steel ones though). WR's are pretty popular and are supposedly a little better than YZ's and CRF's as far as sumo conversions go. Like I said, if you can afford the conversion and a possible valve job / repercussions of something wearing out then go for it for sure.
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Aug 23, 2012 05:06
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If its going to be a toy, go nuts with the Huskies and converted dirtbikes and whatnot. If its going to have to get you to work in the morning, go for a DRZ, WRX, or a newer LC4. If you can find a DRZ with the FCR and a pipe already done, you'll be sitting on a decently quick bike. The FCR is like a motor swap for the DRZ. Plenty of people throw big bore kits, cams, etc at them for even more power. Let someone else spend the money and buy it used.
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Aug 23, 2012 05:12
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An observer posted:Not really, for a woman anyway Okay, you're good. Sumos are still awesome.
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Aug 23, 2012 05:33
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GUYS. I DID A THING.  I THOUGHT I WAS BETTER AT MANAGING MY MONEY, BUT THIS THING IS AWESOME. ($3600, but I'm mostly okay with that. I found a few people in Texas that purchased similar models for $4k+.) I'll take better pics when I have a chance and it's not midnight. Edit: There are some things I need to fix, but I have all the parts: 1) Replace the rear brake pads. The seller gave me two or three packs of EBC pads. 2) Reinstall the ignition lock, starter, and find a bigger battery and fabricate a new battery box since two owners ago it was decided it would be kickstart only and a really tiny battery would be used. 3) Install the signal indicators and buy a pair of handguards and probably mirrors. (What mirrors should I buy?) 4) Go play around in a parking lot, a lot. Oh, and eventually change the fork oil and tires. The same owner who removed the starter and put in the "custom" subframe also did the "ghetto" tubeless mod. to the wheels. I am considering switching back to using innertubes when I change the tires. Do only particular street tires accept innertubes? Is there any reason to, at this point? Edit: Edit: Did I mention that the kickstart makes me feel awesome and accomplished? Because it does. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Aug 23, 2012 |
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Aug 23, 2012 06:47
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I switched to a little round ~3 inch mirror that I stuck on my bars that I really like instead of a huge set but you might want more visibility when just starting out. They're found pretty cheap on ebay or I even have a few lying around I wouldn't mind sending. Look up Aprilia type mirrors - I want to say Falco type? They're pretty popular as an aftermarket add-on to bikes and will fit the KTM angular lines. You can put innertubes in a radial sportbike tire. I ran Pilot Powers on my DRZ and had tubes inside. Beware though that they're more expensive than a bicycle tube at least. I think mine were ~20 dollars a piece and they are beastly. If the owner didn't gently caress it up and it holds air well I'd just leave it. Maybe go over his work with some more silicone if you're paranoid. Lots of people recommend contiforce tires but I never had much luck finding a cheap set when I searched before. Powers always worked really well for me and the 150 rear is pretty drat cheap. Now if you just want to ride that thing up to college station I can appropriately "check it out" for you 
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Aug 23, 2012 08:01
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:If its going to be a toy, go nuts with the Huskies and converted dirtbikes and whatnot. What are you saying? My Huskie got me to work every day this week. spandexcajun posted:I hear a Husqvarna 610sm is a pretty great, fast, and reliable bike and I now want one. Howerver, I dont think it would be easy to find one. I the 690 KTM is awesome but way too much money and also hard to find. Just keep an eye out. When I was sumo shopping, a bunch of people had bubba'd out DRZ400s way out in bumblefuck, Georgia. I searched for SM610s on Craigslist, and lo and behold, one came up for sale in stock condition less than a mile from where I work.
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Aug 23, 2012 11:09
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I had Aprilia/Motoguzzi/Ducati/etc mirrors on my DRZ, but I guess the Italians never had to deal with vibration? I replaced both mirrors with smaller inboard units, I may be imagining things but losing that tiny bit of weight makes the steering feel (in my head at least?) noticeabley lighter.
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Aug 23, 2012 13:06
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Safety Dance posted:What are you saying? My Huskie got me to work every day this week. SO FAR DUN DUN DUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
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Aug 23, 2012 14:29
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Which huskie do you own? It seems like most big bikes just happen to get away with longer maintenance intervals. Chances are even a CRF/YZ, etc can be ridden quite a long rear end time with just valve checks / adjustments but they might be down on performance or might catastrophically fail. If you've got the money to back them up these bikes are WAY more fun though, period.
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Aug 23, 2012 15:34
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JP Money posted:Which huskie do you own? It seems like most big bikes just happen to get away with longer maintenance intervals. Chances are even a CRF/YZ, etc can be ridden quite a long rear end time with just valve checks / adjustments but they might be down on performance or might catastrophically fail. If you've got the money to back them up these bikes are WAY more fun though, period. It's the SM610, and it's due for maintenance if I want to keep commuting on it.
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Aug 23, 2012 15:38
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Excuse my mental retardation there, I looked at the posts on my phone then posted on here :x How often do you do valve checks? Something like the 625 above or some other big thumper is what I'd really like to get next but I've also been contemplating trading off the R6 for a WRX just to see what it's like. Fuel injection is something I would REALLY like to keep. It's so nice on the few cold mornings we get here to just hit the button and not have to deal with any strange occurrences. My DRZ was jetted well but sometimes on the coldest days it would get a demon in it and be a bitch to start. That kickstart on the 625 could be a godsend some day.
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Aug 23, 2012 15:43
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An observer posted:So, Hopefully you've already been convinced to get one, but just wanted to add that I only have a couple inseam inches on you, so I'm almost on tiptoes on my DRZ at a stop. I just slide over and plant one foot or the other -- not at all a problem on a light bike. It felt a little weird to do at first but now it's automatic and feels normal. I don't think you'll have a problem.
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Aug 23, 2012 18:16
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Safety Dance posted:
I'll be damned, found one in a town on the eastern planes about 1.5 hours away from Denver. Guy just emailed me back, said he still owns on the loan and just wants it gone. 2009 610SM with 2400 miles on the clock. poo poo, that is pretty much want I am looking for. He is asking 5 grand which is about right or a little high. If I try to get it I think my SV650 will have to go, and I love it and just got new tires / front springs / rear shock  I'll have to go at least check it out. Truth is I rarely get out for long rides anymore (can't think of the last time I had a 250+ mile day) so a SM is looking even better. Safety Dance, I'm a big guy, how do you think I will fit a 610sm? 6'3" 215lbs. I know what I like about these bikes, what don't you like about yours? How is it on the highway? I know it will suck I just wonder if it is tolerable. Stupid thread, making me make financially irresponsible choices. MetaJew, awesome ride. Egg me on.
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Aug 24, 2012 01:24
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spandexcajun posted:Safety Dance, I'm a big guy, how do you think I will fit a 610sm? 6'3" 215lbs. I know what I like about these bikes, what don't you like about yours? How is it on the highway? I know it will suck I just wonder if it is tolerable. I'm about 6'1, but 250lbs. I bought a Seat Concepts replacement seat for mine about a week after I got it. The stock seat was uncomfortable after about half an hour otherwise. With the Seat Concepts seat, I can ride about three hours taking normal breaks before my butt starts to hurt. Also on the long distance riding front, I wish the bars were a little higher -- my back was starting to hurt around hour four of touring. The riding position is a little more aggressive than my KLR 650's. Of course it's got no fairings, so wind buffeting gets a little tiresome after several hard hours on the highway. The stock rear tire developed a nice flat spot after 150 continuous superslab miles. I'm debating replacing it with a nice dual-compound sumo tire. I've yet to find a good tank bag or tail bag, but I haven't really been looking hard. The tail bag I have doesn't fit very well. It can roll forward enough when parked in first to pop up the kickstand if the chain is a little too slack. I usually counteract this by rolling it all the way forward to take up driveline slack before I set it down when parked. Related to the previous issue, the stock clutch lever and indicator lens break pretty easily when dropped. The ASV clutch lever that says it's for all Husqvarnas does not fit this one. Fortunately, parts are cheap through the dealer network. I managed to kick my right rear indicator hard enough to break the stalk once. Again, parts are cheap (I think the entire indicator assembly is like $13). Pillion seat is entirely theoretical. Uh, the exhaust can be uncomfortably hot sometimes if it's really hot outside and you're sitting in traffic with your right leg down, left leg on the peg. You can't set the in-dash clock to 24 hour time unless it's also displaying KPH. Other than these niggles, it's a great commuting bike. If I was trying to go more than about 200 miles in a day, I'd try to do so on a more touring-oriented bike, if I had one at my disposal. Edit: also, the steering lock is on the side of the thingy, rather than being integrated with the ignition.
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Aug 24, 2012 03:02
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God damnit goons, tell me this is a horrible idea and I shouldn't spend more money. I've finally put myself in a position where I have enough to get a second bike and I've been toying with the notion of getting a supermoto to hoon on. This is where THIS loving THING RIGHT HERE enters the picture. craigslist posted:REDUCED PRICE. I really want a supermoto. Really really really. God help me I'm ready to pull the trigger on this right now but I know I'm not thinking objectively. This is where I need your help. I don't know much about good things to do to a DRZ except what was described a few posts above me. Looking at the craigslist post it's kind of overwhelming in a sense. I see it's had lots done to it but I don't know anything about how they were done. Is there anything about this that jumps out and screams bad idea? What kind of problems should I look for here? It's obviously had a lot of work done to it, where would someone screw up installing all of this? Even if the bike has less than 18k on the engine what besides a valve check is coming up soon? Chain/sprockets? ect. Also, I know it's fairly difficult to ride a bike manufactured by one of the big four into the ground, and the DRZ is known for its bulletproof reliability but let's just speak hypothetically here. Lets say the owner had abused the bike, obviously I'd want to take it for a test ride but what should I be looking for? Any key area damages I could easily overlook? What should I be feeling for when riding it? This is also going to be the first bike I've bought private party, what kind of recourse do I have if I end up getting hosed and the engine grenades itself as soon as I get a block down the road?
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Aug 25, 2012 01:34
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Lets just step through the ad shall we? I've owned a couple DRZ's and have been around more than a few throughout the years.
Other than that, ask about the Loctite fixes and whether he's done them (detailed here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/939138-what-every-drz-needs-protection-reliability-fixes-common-maint/), if so, bonus. Try to feel him out on how he rode it, was he a stunter? Did it spend its life in dirt? Does he do burnouts all day on it? Did it sit at the rev limiter constantly? As you mentioned, the DRZ is stout, so what you're looking for is obvious abuse, coming mainly through how he treated it. There are DRZ's that are exposed constantly to the above mentioned things and are just fine, as long as they get the maintenance they need. There are also DRZ's that are ridden lightly but never maintained and are ready to die, so its a double edged sword, just try to feel him out as a bike owner. What to look for? The engine can be noisy, so if you hear some clicks and such coming from the top end, dont worry too much. If you hear loud or deep knocks, run away. The transmission can be notchy (and will feel downright broken when the bike is ready for an oil change), so if you're used to something like a GSXR transmission, it will feel weird. As for that particular bike? I dont know what the market is like in Hollywood, and I suspect its a more expensive bike than it would be here in Milwaukee, but here, that is not a $4k bike. Actual SM's go for $3500 to $4000 in good shape. If that bike is in good shape, I would expect to see about $3000 for it here. I would push him on the mileage and the fact that its 10 different colors and so is obviously assembled from multiple bikes/parts. I would feel good about getting below $3K for that, but in good shape I'd move up into the $3K range. Like I said, these rules may not apply in Hollywood, but either way, theres my feelings on it. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Aug 25, 2012 |
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Aug 25, 2012 02:39
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Kickstart-only update: gently caress kickstarts! I stopped to fill it up with gas on the way to my brother's house where we'll be fixing it up. It started up easily enough at my apartment. After trying to carefully fill the ridiculously small tank without splashing fuel everywhere, I go to to start it and it would occasionally sputter, but not turn on. Of course I began to get incredibly claustrophobic in my leathers and helmet, took a break, had a harley riderr ask if I need a jump, and then finally got it running. Then on my way to my destination I must've let out the clutch a little too abruptly and stalled it in a residential neighborhood. Trying to start it again was an awful experience. Fortunately I wasn't too far from where I was going, and I was brought some water. After a break I finally got it running again. I'm not sure what the trick is since I've been doing the same thing every time. Bring it to top dead center with some help from the compression release, push the crank just slightly past top dead center, and then kick it. We'll see if I can perfect it anymore. But now, priority number one and two are to get a new set of tires (at least the rear since the chain looks like it's rubbed) and pick up an Li-Ion battery and reinstall the starter. And I've probably sweat my entire body weight in water today.
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Aug 25, 2012 04:21
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MetaJew posted:Kickstart-only update: gently caress kickstarts! I guess there's a reason electric start was invented. My wife has a 74 cb400 with a kickstart, she uses the electric start, although I dont think the kickstart is too hard. I should try it some time.
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Aug 25, 2012 04:26
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MetaJew posted:gently caress kickstarts! Nonsense, kick starts are awesome. If I get a husky 610 sm first mod I do will be to add a kickstart if possible ( I have not kicked a bike over in years )
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Aug 25, 2012 04:43
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spandexcajun posted:Nonsense, kick starts are awesome. If I get a husky 610 sm first mod I do will be to add a kickstart if possible ( I have not kicked a bike over in years Not sumo related, but my 78 xs1100 has a kick start as well as electric 
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Aug 25, 2012 05:25
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I think it might be a hotstart issue with the carb. I'm going to pull the plug tomorrow and see if it's running too rich. Don't get me wrong, kickstarts are cool... When they work.
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Aug 25, 2012 06:14
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MetaJew posted:Don't get me wrong, kickstarts are cool... When they work. I could never get my Husky 450 to start with the kickstarter. I read all kinds of guides and it still never worked once. Then the kickstarter vibrated off the bike and I didn't realize it for three days and couldn't find it. Popular opinion was not to use it anyway because the engine blocks were made in Czechoslovakia that year and can crack from kickstarting. I really would like to kick over a bike someday though.
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Aug 25, 2012 09:58
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SaNChEzZ posted:Not sumo related, but my 78 xs1100 has a kick start as well as electric Lol wow. That must be like a 1.1:1 compression ratio, or geared really low on the kickstarter. My old CB750 had a kickstarter and I thought that was crazy.
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Aug 25, 2012 14:14
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Would CA drive 5-6 hours round-trip to do a sumo race in the rain? I figure it's either an easier way to start getting comfortable sliding around or a horrible idea that will leave me hating my bike and myself.
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Aug 25, 2012 17:39
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Gnaghi posted:Would CA drive 5-6 hours round-trip to do a sumo race in the rain? I figure it's either an easier way to start getting comfortable sliding around or a horrible idea that will leave me hating my bike and myself. I would try to trailer the bike... Riding the track is about not holding back, which risks a crash. Either you'll hold back and enjoy it less, or risk a crash and be hosed. SO I did a 6 day ~1600 mile trip on the 690 with some friends:  Port ORFORD, OR  I know my bars aren't centered wanna fight?  Some bridge in OR More photos Seattle to Hood River, OR to Eugene to the coast, south to Nor Cal, North to Crater Lake, and Back. The 690 did better than I expected. The bike is roomy enough to stretch while riding and the sleeping bag was a great back rest. It only felt insufficient on I90 over the mountains for 5 hours in the wind.
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Aug 25, 2012 19:22
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Lol wow. That must be like a 1.1:1 compression ratio, or geared really low on the kickstarter. I think it's a "use this in emergencies" thing, it doesn't come with the kickstarter but the shaft is there if you want to buy one. Which I did 
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Aug 25, 2012 19:39
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Gullous posted:I would try to trailer the bike... Riding the track is about not holding back, which risks a crash. Either you'll hold back and enjoy it less, or risk a crash and be hosed. Oh I'm definitely not riding there, Husky's going in the back of my truck. I was just wondering what to expect from a rain race day. 1600 miles on a sumo is a good stretch, what tires did you have on there and did they last? I'm gonna need to replace the distanzas on the WRX soon and would like to go the "sumo-touring" route.
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Aug 25, 2012 21:15
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