|
Plastidiped my front emblem. Cuz I'm to poor to get it bondo'd out. plastiemblem2 by Stanyer89, on Flickr  plastiemblem1 by Stanyer89, on Flickr
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 00:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 18:06 |
|
|
Bought an 03 Escalade last week, the driver's side headlight showed quite a bit more yellowing and cloudiness on the headlight, after finding even the cheapest replacement assembly is $250 on Ebay I decided I'd try the headlight restoration kit route, the pictures of before and after really don't do it justice to how much nicer it looks: 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 00:27
|
|
|
Stanyer89 posted:Plastidiped my front emblem. Cuz I'm to poor to get it bondo'd out. This looks better than removing/bondoing it IMO.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 02:16
|
|
|
Grimster posted:Bought an 03 Escalade last week, the driver's side headlight showed quite a bit more yellowing and cloudiness on the headlight, after finding even the cheapest replacement assembly is $250 on Ebay I decided I'd try the headlight restoration kit route, the pictures of before and after really don't do it justice to how much nicer it looks: I did the same last winter, though mine were in a lot worse shape. Looks a lot better, and went from "is that a little flashlight shining on the road?" to "HOLY gently caress MY RETINAS" while driving at night 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 06:17
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:I did the same last winter, though mine were in a lot worse shape. Looks a lot better, and went from "is that a little flashlight shining on the road?" to "HOLY gently caress MY RETINAS" while driving at night I rarely drive at night, I mostly did it cause the driver side was really yellow and foggy, the pictures I took really made it look about 1000% better than it looked to the eye. Now it looks, well, about like that picture, oddly enough the after picture is pretty accurate but the before picture really doesn't show how yellowed it looked. I'd say in the pics it looks like 200% improved, in reality it's like 600% (numbers pulled straight outta my rear end). Basically, I'm pleased with the results for the $25 I paid for the kit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 06:20
|
|
|
Which kit did you use? I went with the 3M kit that attaches to a drill. A little extra, but saved so much time. I didn't get any sealant/UV protectant with it though, so I'll be doing it again in about a year.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 06:43
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Which kit did you use? I went with the 3M kit that attaches to a drill. A little extra, but saved so much time. This one:  They guy at O'reilly's said the 3M one is the better one but it was $3 more and I was being a cheap rear end.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 06:46
|
|
|
Did it include the beer? Also, goddamn that's a clean engine bay.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 06:54
|
|
|
Yeah those headlight restoration kits are the bomb. I got the 3M kit on sale for like nine bux and the result was amazing:     The 'before' pictures don't really convey just how cloudy they were, and they became crystal clear. It was amazing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 14:49
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:The 'before' pictures don't really convey just how cloudy they were, and they became crystal clear. It was amazing. Mine didn't get crystal clear but it looks like the remaining cloudiness is inside the lens not on the outside so, short of taking the lens off and doing the inside I think it's as good as it's gonna get, but it definitely looks loads better, worth the $25 I paid for the Mother's kit for sure. Now if my stereo components would hurry up and get delivered I can get that done next, and lower it 2/4 and get the windows tinted and finish up everything I had planned for it when I bought it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 16:38
|
|
|
The timing/cooling system job went quite well. I spent 3 hours waiting around for parts, and I spent about 30 minutes turning the motor over by hand and looking at timing marks just to be sure, but I buttoned everything up and cranked the motor and it didn't make any terrible noises! 
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 16:49
|
|
|
Various Goons posted:
You should follow the kit with a protective film like lamin-x. Sanding down the outer layer removes the UV blocking layer and it's just a matter of time until the lenses will cloud/yellow again (plus it offers excellent chip/scratch protection.) Content: Been working on getting my Focus road-worthy again all week. Went from no front end, not running with a shattered windshield to this...  ...and able to move under its own power for the first time in nearly 3 years. Surprisingly it turned over without any trouble on the first try and idled like I had just pulled in the driveway the night before. Geoj fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Aug 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 16:51
|
|
|
Grimster posted:Mine didn't get crystal clear but it looks like the remaining cloudiness is inside the lens not on the outside so, short of taking the lens off and doing the inside I think it's as good as it's gonna get, but it definitely looks loads better, worth the $25 I paid for the Mother's kit for sure. I have used the Mother's kit and it sucks. It does not include any sand paper, so it can only remove very light haze. The 3M kit includes two types of sandpaper, a third very fine abrasive element, and a foam pad and rubbing compound. After using them back to back the Mother's Powerball is pretty much useless and the 3M kit can take bring a junk lens back to near factory perfect.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 21:22
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I have used the Mother's kit and it sucks. It does not include any sand paper, so it can only remove very light haze. The 3M kit includes two types of sandpaper, a third very fine abrasive element, and a foam pad and rubbing compound. Maybe a different kit? This one had 4 grades of sand paper for "heavily damaged lenses". Looked like it ran from roughly 600 to 2000 grit from #1 through 4.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 02:00
|
|
|
Spent the other day sanding and treating rust spots on the Lightning's front bumper. Today I sanded the filler and primed it. Tomorrow is paint and also a new windshield in the afternoon.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 02:23
|
|
|
Brought the Volvo to my mechanic (username is accurate, I could botch an air filter change). New diff front cover and associated parts will run into the hundreds, but it had to be done since its rear end was leaking a bit of diff oil through some strategically placed rust. I think that brings the total to almost $2k so far this year. Still better than dealing with the $8000 high mileage shitboxes on Autotrader/CL.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 02:37
|
|
|
I also hit 40,000 in the Speed6. Sadly I wasn't paying attention until it hit 40,004 though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 04:05
|
|
|
Headlight restore kit talk reminded me, on my new car the clear lens over the instrument cluster has what looks like water spots, they aren't cleaning off with any kind of mild cleaner I've tried so far, I'm afraid anything more heavy duty would haze it over. I have a headlight restore kit left over after using it on another car, think it would damage that lens? I'm guessing someone sprayed armor-all or something equally awful on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 04:14
|
|
|
I feel bad for you with plastic headlights that get faded with time. Sealed beam 4 lyfe. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 04:21
|
|
|
Raw_Beef posted:I feel bad for you with plastic headlights that get faded with time.  Not sure what those lights near the middle are though, those could use some restoring.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 04:34
|
|
|
My low beams are $10 for sylvanias. Strangley the high beams are unavailable from autozone in sylvania brand, but available in another for twice the cost. What do halogen/xenon bulbs cost? Also nice olds, those things are fun and very tough for a GM.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 04:48
|
|
|
Raw_Beef posted:I feel bad for you with plastic headlights that get faded with time. My other car and truck have sealed beams, if they got hazy I'd just buy new ones for like $9.99 each, pics:  
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:00
|
|
|
Grimster posted:My other car and truck have sealed beams, if they got hazy I'd just buy new ones for like $9.99 each, pics: Stop doing that. You're going to make me a GM guy by years end if you keep this up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:02
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Stop doing that. You're going to make me a GM guy by years end if you keep this up. Oddly enough I'm not really a GM guy, I love all brands and models, if it's cool, I probably dig it. Bonus pic, the motor in that truck:  400 small block, balanced rotating assembly, lightweight pistons, aluminum heads, etc etc etc, when I say "fahv hunnerd hawspower" I kinda mean it. Or close enough. Grimster fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Aug 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:07
|
|
|
Grimster posted:Oddly enough I'm not really a GM guy, I love all brands and models, if it's cool, I probably dig it. I'm a Ford guy through and through, mostly by accident. Even my Mazda is half Ford. But like I said to you before I plan to be a Grand National owner by February by the latest and I've contemplated picking up a Typhoon because of how cheap they can be had.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:11
|
|
|
I would love a Typhoon (is that the SUV one? I always mix 'em up). It would be a very good match for my Buick in the garage.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:13
|
|
|
Yet more work on the NG900 SE. I'm getting the seat to return 'OK' to stock position, but it randomly ignores requests to tilt/move/etc. It times out and trips a relay when it DOES move. So, I did what any semi-sane person would do, and decided to check the one known relay. Not having a spare, I went under the hood and found the 9522061 for the fan, and it's schematically similar, but it won't fit under the drat seat because the fins are just a little too large.  So, I renecked it for the test (Yes, those are washers holding the contact hot):  Nope. Problem is in the control unit. I opened it to look for rust or any user servicable parts. Didn't find any, but there ARE one of 3 relays on it, and I don't know which one is clicking:  The problem is in here somewhere. Since the seat returns to the 'stock' position without tripping, it's not the motor using too much juice, because it will return to stock from forward, or reverse without issue. This part new costs $1100. The car cost $1500. Going to see if I can rewire the switches to the motors..
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:15
|
|
|
Grimster posted:I would love a Typhoon (is that the SUV one? I always mix 'em up). It would be a very good match for my Buick in the garage. Yeah it's the SUV. Between Craigslist and Ebay I've found almost 20 for sale for not insane prices considering what they are capable of.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:16
|
|
|
I finally emptied out the garage after my move-in so now I can park two cars indoors. Good thing too because I've had to wash bird poo poo off my WRX 3 times this week. I bought some Goo Gone automotive spray to try and get all the dead bugs off my front end but now I'm hesitant to try it in case it erodes the glue for my 3M clear bra. The sticker warns that you shouldn't spray it into carpet in case it dissolves the carpet glue but I'm guessing I might be able to rinse it off before it soaks through the 3M (if it's even possible for it to do so). Grimster posted:I would love a Typhoon (is that the SUV one? I always mix 'em up). It would be a very good match for my Buick in the garage. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 06:40
|
|
|
I look at this car and think "KITT's polar opposite."
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 14:36
|
|
|
I really like this, good work.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 14:42
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I finally emptied out the garage after my move-in so now I can park two cars indoors. Good thing too because I've had to wash bird poo poo off my WRX 3 times this week. Why not just use a clay bar to remove the bugs?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 15:02
|
|
|
Viggen posted:Nope. Problem is in the control unit. I opened it to look for rust or any user servicable parts. Didn't find any, but there ARE one of 3 relays on it, and I don't know which one is clicking: Put your finger on each until you find the clicking one. Rhyno posted:Hey I'm selling some cars! Rhyno posted:I'm a Ford guy through and through, mostly by accident. Even my Mazda is half Ford. But like I said to you before I plan to be a Grand National owner by February by the latest and I've contemplated picking up a Typhoon because of how cheap they can be had. You have an intervention-grade problem.  Like ultimateforce only they're all in nice running condition. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Aug 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 15:07
|
|
|
Raw_Beef posted:I feel bad for you with plastic headlights that get faded with time. Cage posted:I too get the pleasure of paying out the butt for new lights. That's why the best kinds of sealed beam are the ones you can hide! 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 16:34
|
|
|
[quote="Splizwarf" post=""406920878"] You have an intervention-grade problem. Like ultimateforce only they're all in nice running condition. [/quote] It's not that bad! I've owned the Mazda and the truck for over a year!
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 18:01
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Why not just use a clay bar to remove the bugs?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 18:56
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Put your finger on each until you find the clicking one. Those relays butt right up against the bottom of the seat, and even if I could shield the bottom of the unit from grounding - I've been entirely unable to source replacements. NEC EN2N5 are nowhere to be found, and I've been out of hardware for so long that I have no idea of any equivs. Had some guy offer to sell me a used unit for $300, but V&S offered me a warrantied one for $75. Might as well not redneck up the car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 19:01
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I thought clay bars were only for paint, but I guess now that I think about it they should work for vinyl too. I'll go pick one up tonight. From what I remember, you should be able to treat the 3m clear bra film exactly like paint.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 19:03
|
|
|
Jumped it. Somehow managed to leave my lights on last night and came out to a completely dead battery this morning. It's a good thing my fiance is at home this week--I would have been stranded at home with no car to jump it with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 18:06 |
|
|
 Shooting the paint tomorrow...
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2012 05:13
|
|