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Ozmiander posted:You may get some. with the old trans and the crappy running 4.2, I was getting between 12 and 15mpg.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:19
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freestyl posted:Well I googled the issue (if I pull on the belt it will not lock... it just has slack). Can you take a picture of the baby seat in the car to illustrate what the problem is? I never had issues with my XJ and my ex's kid.
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Aug 29, 2012 23:37
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The belts in my XJ, with nearly 400 kms on it, still lock fine.
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Aug 30, 2012 01:02
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Need to replace the slave cylinder on my '90 MJ, and rather than switch to the external slave, I'd rather just get the Mopar internal slave. Allegedly it's the only one that actually lasts (OE lasted until the previous owner had it replaced with a Chinese slave last August, and now I'm doing it again). Where in the hell can I find one online? They've vanished from the face of the earth.
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Aug 30, 2012 01:34
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Not sure, but the part number is 8350 3384. I don't see OEM ones for sale anywhere, just Dorman and the other usual suspects. I'd really suggest an external slave conversion. I know it's not what you want, but it's probably the best thing to do under the circumstances.
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Aug 30, 2012 01:43
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Rhyno posted:Can you take a picture of the baby seat in the car to illustrate what the problem is? I never had issues with my XJ and my ex's kid. Basically think of a booster seat and using the shoulder seat belt to latch a kid in. The belt does not hold a lock to keep the passenger from moving forward. If I yank or pull on the belt it will not lock. Just checked and its the same for my front belts. 
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Aug 30, 2012 02:25
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freestyl posted:Basically think of a booster seat and using the shoulder seat belt to latch a kid in. The lock doesn't latch or belt goes slack?
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Aug 30, 2012 02:41
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Rhyno posted:The lock doesn't latch or belt goes slack? It goes slack.
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Aug 30, 2012 03:27
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The belt only needs to lock when you're in an accident. I don't know what design is in XJs, but some seatbelts are designed to lock when there's a strong acceleration, not when the belt comes out really fast.
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Aug 30, 2012 03:29
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EightBit posted:The belt only needs to lock when you're in an accident. I don't know what design is in XJs, but some seatbelts are designed to lock when there's a strong acceleration, not when the belt comes out really fast. It doesn't take much effort but in most if not all vehicles I've been in, if you tug on the belt quickly it locks to prevent the passenger from moving forward. In this case not in my XJ. I would like to know how to fix this.
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Aug 30, 2012 03:36
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commissargribb posted:with the old trans and the crappy running 4.2, I was getting between 12 and 15mpg. ... christ the c304 gets better than that.
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Aug 30, 2012 04:26
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freestyl posted:It doesn't take much effort but in most if not all vehicles I've been in, if you tug on the belt quickly it locks to prevent the passenger from moving forward. I love the seatbelts on the Cherokee for just this reason - For whatever reason, the belts on most cars lock up like that on me no matter what, even just putting them on they lock up, and I have to take off the belt and put it all the way back in for it to "re-set" and give me some slack. The Cherokee very rarely locks up on me, usually only if I'm nose-down off-road. Each belt has it's own unit that handles the lockup, and they're not known for going bad, ever. So if you can't get ANY of them to do it, it's likely not that the belts are broken, it's just that they're not "detecting" a rapid acceleration/angles are wrong. The Cherokee's belts are harder to get to do it without actually being in a crash compared to most belts I've experienced, and you probably shouldn't worry and they're working just fine, is what I'm saying.
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Aug 30, 2012 04:31
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Meanwhile my YJ's driver side belt will frequently lock when I lean forward to reach the radio 
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Aug 30, 2012 08:37
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commissargribb posted:with the old trans and the crappy running 4.2, I was getting between 12 and 15mpg. My YJ gets about 13mpg, then again it uses LPG and each gallon costs about $2.23 so a full tank costs me about $25  I'm visiting at Cambridge, MA, and I was wondering if there are any JYs or Jeep stores around here where I could waste my money. Specifically, I'm looking for dash and trim parts I could restore. Also next week I don't have anything to do so if anybody around here would like to have a hand with their shitpiles, I'd be happy to help!
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Aug 30, 2012 12:04
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Steiler Drep posted:My YJ gets about 13mpg, then again it uses LPG and each gallon costs about $2.23 so a full tank costs me about $25 I have dash parts you can have for free. What are you doing saturday?    EDIT: what do you need? I have a complete good condition crashpad/defrost duct system, a really rough dash backing with a complete though pretty rough AC manifold, a glove box and glove box door for a YJ. Plus I believe I still have the Laredo plastic side trim pieces and an extra front end (I forget which side) fender flare. I've also got a complete stock center console that's in fairly rough condition. Let me know if you want any of it. I'm not asking any money for it. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Aug 30, 2012 |
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Aug 30, 2012 15:52
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commissargribb posted:I have dash parts you can have for free. What are you doing saturday? I was thinking more like little details but I see some stuff there which I could definitely use! I'm leaving to NY this weekend but I come back Monday, I could go anytime next week. Next Saturday would be fine if weekdays are rough for you. Where are you located? How's that engine transplant going?
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Aug 31, 2012 00:00
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Steiler Drep posted:I was thinking more like little details but I see some stuff there which I could definitely use! I'm leaving to NY this weekend but I come back Monday, I could go anytime next week. Next Saturday would be fine if weekdays are rough for you. Where are you located? How's that engine transplant going? If you give me more of a specific idea of what you need, I might have it. I pulled most of my trim/dash stuff almost two years back I think. I'll probably be down there next weekend too to finish the swap but I can't guarantee it. I've got classes twice a week on monday and thursday starting next week. It's a bit of a haul for me driving down from Maine though. I just spent another $200 on incidental costs to ensure that my transmission works 
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Aug 31, 2012 01:48
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I was turning left at an intersection the other night and an elderly woman driving a Mercedes SUV decided she wanted to go instead, even though she got to the intersection after I did. She ran into the passenger side of my XJ and pushed me a good 5-6 feet before her passenger finally reached over and told her to stop. My dog was in the car, so that was my biggest concern, but we're both fine. So after the insurance adjuster finally came to check out the damage, this is what a totalled XJ looks like:    It starts and runs fine, but something happened to the power steering because all the fluid gushed out all over the ground. The passenger front wheel seems slightly angled and there is some minor damage to the Cragar Soft 8 wheel, so there's probably something bent in the steering from the collision. The repair bill from the insurance is almost $4,000, so they're opting to total it. Such a waste though as we've all seen XJs get worse damage than this wheeling like it was nothing. I haven't been told what kind of money I'll be getting for it yet, but depending on what they're offering, I'll probably try to buy it back so I can pull the mods off and part it out, or maybe sell it whole for parts or something. 146k miles, runs like a top, leaks no fluid, and 100% zero rust. What a waste.
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Aug 31, 2012 01:50
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Did the windshield break? Any damage to the unibody structure? It looks almost like the door hinge area under the A-pillar got bent a little and that's about it. I bet you could fix that with a few hundred in junkyard parts and get it back on the road after a salvage inspection. Steiler Drep, some locations you might want to try: Sams Pull a Part in Worcester - decent prices, gotta bring your own tools. Everett's Pull a Part in Brockton - decent prices here too, bring your own tools. Crown Automotive outlet down in Canton on Turnpike Street - a lot of brand new stuff, a lot of wrangler accessories and stock parts available. If you stop by there, you'll probably meet my friend Jeff, tell him Ken says hi.
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Aug 31, 2012 03:18
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kastein posted:Did the windshield break? Any damage to the unibody structure? It looks almost like the door hinge area under the A-pillar got bent a little and that's about it. Nope, windshield is fine. There is a dent to the unibody under the door. The rock slider I installed is still perfectly straight while the unibody is pushed away from it an inch or two right behind the front wheel. Honestly the rock slider took the brunt of the impact and just has some scrapes to the paint as result, which means it did its job perfectly. The woman's front license plate was wrapped around it in a "C" shape. If that weren't there, the damage would have been much worse. The thing is, I was getting ready to sell this next week. I could get it back on the road with a salvage title, but I want it gone. Depending on what they offer me I'll either sell it as-is with the salvage title for a couple grand or I'll part it out. The guy did say I could take off any parts that aren't required for the car to run before it gets hauled away, so I'll remove the rock sliders, OEM skid plates, tow hooks, and I'll throw the stock wheels and tires back on. That stuff alone should get me close to $1,500 in parts hopefully. Unfortunately I don't think I'll have time to pull the 3" lift and nitro shocks, steering stabilizer, and Rusty's trac bar. Shame, cause they are all just over a year old.
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Aug 31, 2012 03:54
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That Rusty's track bar was waiting to kill you anyways, they've been at fault in a number of bad accidents and rollovers. The rest sucks... see if you can't pull the lift and shocks off at least. Front lift shouldn't take more than a few hours especially if the bolts have been out in the last year, same with the rear.
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Aug 31, 2012 03:57
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commissargribb posted:If you give me more of a specific idea of what you need, I might have it. I pulled most of my trim/dash stuff almost two years back I think. The speedo/odometer plastic trim on mine was butchered by the PO, so that I would definitely take, and that AC manifold would look fine on mine. Also if you have the little plastic ends on the fan control, I would also take those. Any brew preference? Old one, this 
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Aug 31, 2012 12:47
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BoostCreep posted:Nope, windshield is fine. There is a dent to the unibody under the door. The rock slider I installed is still perfectly straight while the unibody is pushed away from it an inch or two right behind the front wheel. Honestly the rock slider took the brunt of the impact and just has some scrapes to the paint as result, which means it did its job perfectly. The woman's front license plate was wrapped around it in a "C" shape. If that weren't there, the damage would have been much worse. I'm in the market for tow hooks and OEM skids...and stock wheel and tires, where are you?
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Aug 31, 2012 14:56
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Steiler Drep posted:The speedo/odometer plastic trim on mine was butchered by the PO, so that I would definitely take, and that AC manifold would look fine on mine. Also if you have the little plastic ends on the fan control, I would also take those. Any brew preference? OH yeah you can have my old plastic trim and heater controls. I'll just throw it all in the back of my car when I head down. I'm usually on #Newenglandai if you want to chat about stupid jeeps.
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Aug 31, 2012 15:29
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I recently installed some smittybilt tube fenders on my TJ(I can do a writeup on that if yall want) but the reason I come here is that it appears she's not level anymore. I think with the new added weight on the fenders it's weighing down the front(kind of like the rake on a truck). Anyways, I'm in the market for a lift and I was thinking about a simple two inch spacer since I've only got 32s right now. I had my eye on this one http://www.quadratec.com/products/16190_007_07.htm as it says in the description that if I left the rubber insulators out it would be a 1.5 lift. So what I had in mind is doing the 2 in the front and 1.5 in the back. Do yall think this would work or do you know of any other solutions? Another unrelated question do yall have any tips and tricks on cleaning the engine bay? I'm thinking about blocking the intake and taking a hose and sponge to it. DixielandDelight fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 31, 2012 |
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Aug 31, 2012 18:41
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Cover the distributor and throttle position sensor (mounted to the back of the throttle body generally) as well, they generally aren't very waterproof. Might be a good idea to keep the water away from the alternator too, and start it up soon after washing it, I've had bad luck with alternators left alone for too long in a damp environment seizing up.
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Aug 31, 2012 22:23
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rally posted:I'm in the market for tow hooks and OEM skids...and stock wheel and tires, where are you? I'm in Los Angeles. So I got my payoff amounts from my insurance company. $5,805 to have them take it. $4,682 for me to keep it. It's only a $1,100 difference which I'm sure I could make up from all the parts that are on it but I really don't have time to pull everything apart. I'll probably have them take it after I swap my 31's for the stock wheels and tires, remove the rock sliders, tow hooks, and skid plates like I already mentioned, and still get the $5,805 for it. The actual cash value is $6,805 but I have a $1,000 deductible which I'm hoping to get back once they realize the other driver was at fault.
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Aug 31, 2012 22:37
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I've got a set of custom 4x4 cherokee/mj front tow hooks and powder coated mounts and I don't own an XJ anymore. Someone should buy them from me. http://custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html
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Aug 31, 2012 22:39
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I wish somebody would throw their JK Rubicon rails on craigslist. I know there are five thousand pairs just sitting around after the owners installed aftermarket rails.
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Aug 31, 2012 22:47
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Godholio posted:I wish somebody would throw their JK Rubicon rails on craigslist. I know there are five thousand pairs just sitting around after the owners installed aftermarket rails. Same here! There's a few for sale over on the JK forums but no one will ship.
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Sep 1, 2012 14:35
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I got my clutch bits in the mail. The rest of my parts should be here by the 8th.
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Sep 1, 2012 18:34
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mattfl posted:Same here! There's a few for sale over on the JK forums but no one will ship.
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Sep 1, 2012 18:40
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InitialDave posted:Really? If you're paying for it, why would they care? I'm guessing because it requires effort greater on their part than sitting on their couch waiting for you to come and ring the doorbell.
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Sep 1, 2012 19:14
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Yup. Nearest set I can find is about a 9-hr drive away, in Denver.
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Sep 1, 2012 20:27
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Godholio posted:Yup. Nearest set I can find is about a 9-hr drive away, in Denver. Lame. I think though if I ever end up doing rails on mine, I'll make them since they'll probably come out tougher and better looking than anything I can buy.
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Sep 1, 2012 20:53
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Homemade definitely has the price advantage. A lot of people have had good experiences with the Ace sliders. These are what I really want, but the Rubicon rails look really sharp underneath and I'd rather put those on first.
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Sep 1, 2012 21:11
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Godholio posted:A lot of people have had good experiences with the Ace sliders. These are what I really want These are really awesome looking.
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Sep 1, 2012 21:44
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Godholio posted:Homemade definitely has the price advantage. A lot of people have had good experiences with the Ace sliders. These are what I really want, but the Rubicon rails look really sharp underneath and I'd rather put those on first. I'm either going to get those or the LOD Rock sliders http://www.lodoffroad.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16136&cat=249&page=1 Nice thing about the LOD is they attach to the frame and not into the body mounts like the Ace. I've heard nothing but good things about the Ace though and you can't beat the price. Oh, finally got my lift installed. 3.25" Rough Country   And a Rough Country Performance Steering Stabilizer.  I love it. It's like a whole new Jeep, even rides better than stock.
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Sep 2, 2012 02:27
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mattfl posted:I love it. It's like a whole new Jeep, even rides better than stock. After you put a few miles/rocks under it, mind posting an update? Back when I had a YJ the running joke was the Rough Country was the best-named company on the market because you basically needed a mouthguard to run their lifts without loosing teeth. I haven't really started looking at lifts yet (I should probably find a job soon :/ ), but it's on the list. Edit: What bumper is that?
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Sep 2, 2012 19:27
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Godholio posted:After you put a few miles/rocks under it, mind posting an update? Back when I had a YJ the running joke was the Rough Country was the best-named company on the market because you basically needed a mouthguard to run their lifts without loosing teeth. I haven't really started looking at lifts yet (I should probably find a job soon :/ ), but it's on the list. It's the Smittybuilt XRC. And ya I'll post an update in a few thousand miles. It shouldn't take that long since I'm traveling like 500 miles or so a week for work. Right now it's awesome though.
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Sep 2, 2012 22:11
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