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Aug 29, 2012 06:52
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| # ? May 25, 2024 14:48 |
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That's the traditional way you case-harden, yeah. It's how steel was made from wrought iron back in the day. The longer you leave it in, the deeper the casing grows- wait long enough or use thin stock and you can turn the entire thing into carbon steel. Problem is that maintaining temperatures that high for that long is obscenely wasteful if you're doing it just for the case-hardening, so it's really only viable if you have access to a big-rear end boiler or something else with a furnace you can stash the steel box in that sustains high enough temperatures. Alternately, instant case-hardeners work very quickly- usually they require an initial heat, a dusting/dip into the hardener, and one more heat with a quench- but the depth of case-hardening is very shallow and difficult to deepen. I use an instant case-hardener for little knives made of nails, because they're thin enough that the minimal penetration is still considerable. It's also great for dies and other one-off tools you've made that you wanna give a longer working lifespan. e: Another ideal niche use for the instant type is if you're making rasps or rifflers- the teeth are thin enough to usually be completely hardened with just one or two case-hardening cycles, and the steel body stays soft to help anchor the hard teeth and make them more durable in use. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 29, 2012 |
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Aug 29, 2012 14:49
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The Proc posted:Anyone have a reccomended brand of files? Our entire apprentice group and our instructors have been dismayed to find out after recieving a large order that since last year, Nicholson has 1) moved production to Mexico and, 2) become absolute poo poo. I've never had a problem with pferd or simonds. Pferd handles are the best.
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Aug 30, 2012 10:27
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That hammer that I bought ages ago and have had nothing but problems with is finally being replaced. The face started to crack a bit a few months back, but I didn't think too much of it at the time. When I was up doing the big show this year at the museum park, I was using a guillotine tool. The tool was mounted in a vise, so it was pretty high up. I ended up hitting it with the bottom of the face of my hammer, and this made the cracking way way worse. Sorry, this is a lovely picture of it, but you can see it still.  I have literally never seen a hammer face mushroom like this before.  Must have been made from loving lovely steel. So, I have a new one now, roughly the same size, 3 lbs. Hopefully this one will be more reliable, came from a well regarded hardware store instead of a tool store that was closing out. Manufacturers marks are totally different, so I'm confident it wasn't made by the same factory.  Also I finished my address bar. Needs more paint and to touch up where the string is holding it up, but it's pretty well done. Hard to get a good shot of it, it's pretty tall. I'll get a final shot once I jam it in the dirt.  I want to put a solar powered lantern on the top of the post, but I need to find one that will work, then I'll figure out a way to mount it to it. I was thinking maybe a bolt threaded into the bar, or just a hole drilled through and some supports perpendicular to the bar or something.
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Sep 3, 2012 01:22
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"man showing his extremely swollen testicles to the doctor" Did I get it right? What do I win? :iamafag:
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Sep 3, 2012 19:46
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I heard a while ago that springs are good for melting down for amateur smithing - are they preferable to other metals? I tore apart a couch and have all the springs sitting in a box, and I'm wondering if I should toss them in with scrap steel for recycling, or are they preferable enough where I should find a local metalworker who will appreciate them?
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Sep 3, 2012 20:49
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They're not melted down, they're just useable as carbon steel stock once they're straightened. Couch springs are probably gonna be pretty small, more large-gauge wire instead of actual rod, so its applications are pretty limited. Carbon steel isn't really expensive enough to warrant hoarding stuff that small- big truck and car springs, absolutely, but yours are probably tiny in comparison. You could make tiny, tiny knives out of them. Or more springs.
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Sep 3, 2012 21:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:They're not melted down, they're just useable as carbon steel stock once they're straightened. Thanks, tossed them in with the rest of the steel.
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Sep 3, 2012 21:21
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How can I buy nitric acid? It seems to be one of the most flexible and useful acids available for different metalworking processes, but doesn't seem to have an affordable civilian application like sulphuric acid (battery acid) or hydrochloric acid (pool acid) does. Also the whole "it's used to make explosives" thing, rendering it a monitored precursor. I found a Popular Mechanics issue from 1935 that explains how you can synthesize your own from virtually nothing- it takes a spark gap actively arcing in a humid environment, and minimal equipment to contain it (literally a jar, a test tube, and some tubing). Problem being that I'd be able to render a test-tube at a time, and at an unknown concentration at that. Might still be usable if I just wanted a little bit for a Custom Fancy Mordant or a small etching or something. e: Welp, you need something they call a "Ford spark coil", which sounds like a transformer to step up the current from the battery. I hate electric stuff why is it never simple  e^2: Nope, it's weirder. Apparently it's a scaled-up electric buzzer that uses an electromagnet and a springy portion to complete the circuit; it creates a barrage of forming and collapsing magnetic fields that induces a very high voltage across the spark gap. Apparently. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 23:31
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How can I buy nitric acid? It seems to be one of the most flexible and useful acids available for different metalworking processes, but doesn't seem to have an affordable civilian application like sulphuric acid (battery acid) or hydrochloric acid (pool acid) does. Also the whole "it's used to make explosives" thing, rendering it a monitored precursor. It's just an ignition coil. The ones from the 30's might have run on some primitive voodoo but any will work for this.
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Sep 4, 2012 00:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How can I buy nitric acid? http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Nitric-acid-The-Complete-Guide/
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Sep 4, 2012 05:03
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Bad Munki posted:"man showing his extremely swollen testicles to the doctor" You win.... A BETTER PICTURE 
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Sep 4, 2012 06:36
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How can I buy nitric acid? It seems to be one of the most flexible and useful acids available for different metalworking processes, but doesn't seem to have an affordable civilian application like sulphuric acid (battery acid) or hydrochloric acid (pool acid) does. Also the whole "it's used to make explosives" thing, rendering it a monitored precursor. This popped up in my youtube feed today. making nitric acid from ammonium nitrate and sulfuric acid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYDFplw8iKg
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Sep 4, 2012 17:23
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So I'm watching some sort of Gold Rush marathon today on Discovery, and they just briefly showed the smelting process, which was neat. Take the dust/flakes, mix in some flux, melt it down, pour an ingot, and chip the slag off the top of the ingot after it cools. I'm curious, though: with something as valuable as gold, how do they deal with whatever gets left in the crucible? I have this image in my head of it wanting to stick and leaving a skin of gold inside, and if I were having someone make gold ingots for me, I'd be worried about how much material I was losing to the crucible. Does that actually not happen? Does it just not stick or something?
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Sep 4, 2012 20:02
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Bad Munki posted:I'm curious, though: with something as valuable as gold, how do they deal with whatever gets left in the crucible? I have this image in my head of it wanting to stick and leaving a skin of gold inside, and if I were having someone make gold ingots for me, I'd be worried about how much material I was losing to the crucible. Does that actually not happen? Does it just not stick or something? I have never melted gold, but from my experience with aluminum, iron, and silver, they don't stick. The molten metal pours out like water from a beaker. If anything does remain in the crucible, it is more like a "droplet" than a "skin". It makes a small button as it cools which you can generally just pull out of the crucible and melt down again later.
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Sep 4, 2012 20:29
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Yeah, if you want to know how liquid metals behave, play with mercury. Or Youtube it, 'cause mercury is hard to get nowadays. The metal does everything it can to stay in one discrete puddle. You might lose -a bit- to the container, but tbh you'd lose a lot more in the flux slag or to oxidization or whatever. Not with gold in particular, because it's hella inert, but with other metals, yeah. e: Thanks for this, this seems like the most straightforward route. All I need now is a nitrate salt. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Sep 4, 2012 |
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Sep 4, 2012 21:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Thanks for this, this seems like the most straightforward route. All I need now is
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Sep 5, 2012 14:40
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Yeah  Apparently some regular fertilizers will work, and I wouldn't need more than a bag anyways, so it shouldn't be completely impossible to do. e: And also why I was interested in the spark-gap method, because it wizards nitrous oxide out of atmosphere, water and electricity.
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Sep 5, 2012 21:50
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The Proc posted:It's just an ignition coil. The ones from the 30's might have run on some primitive voodoo but any will work for this. Yeah, a coil for any car that has a distributor should work. Presumably it was called a "Ford spark coil" in the '30s because everybody else was still using magnetos.
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Sep 6, 2012 01:46
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Yeah, a coil for any car that has a distributor should work. Presumably it was called a "Ford spark coil" in the '30s because everybody else was still using magnetos. Get an ignition coil for a 1982 Ford F-150. Should say "requires external ballast resistor" on the box. They're like  so nbd.
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Sep 6, 2012 01:54
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Sponge! posted:Get an ignition coil for a 1982 Ford F-150. Should say "requires external ballast resistor" on the box. They're like Why in particular? Are they just really common/cheap? I don't understand things like cars or electricity all that well.
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Sep 6, 2012 02:05
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Are they just really common/cheap? Yes.
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Sep 6, 2012 02:19
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I can't recall this guy's channel getting attention here. http://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791 He runs a one man machine shop on Cape Cod. A fair amount of boat related work but regardless, he really explains and shows his processes well. Plus you get the occasional hilarious old guy rant. Watch all his videos, in one sitting. Don't think you wont.
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Sep 8, 2012 13:12
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I start my machinist course on Tuesday. I am super nervous and excited.
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Sep 8, 2012 14:04
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Brekelefuw posted:I start my machinist course on Tuesday. I am super nervous and excited. I'm about halfway through my program. If you're good at math and you have solid spatial reasoning and an okay memory you'll do very well and also have a blast. It's a field with a bit of a wage ceiling, but there seems to be a lot of lateral mobility based on the number of job postings I see, so it won't be too hard to find a shop that meshes with you. If you're smart, you'll keep going to school while you work and land an engineering degree, and then the whole world will be cuddlin' up to you wanting parts designed/made.
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Sep 8, 2012 14:23
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Dongsmith posted:Awesome! Here's some advice: when you're turning threads between centers on a manual, be sure not to leave the half-nut engaged when you stop the spindle to do somethin' else. You will forget to disengage it when you come back and the carriage will straight-up push your tailstock out of where it needs to be. Thankfully I did this at 100rpm instead of a lot more than 100rpm. All of the previous paragraph will make sense in a month or two. I did take a mandatory millwright course in college when I was learning musical instrument repair, so I have spent a bunch of time on various lathes and milling machines before, but I am doing this to really learn how to do it in more depth so I can make tools for my job repairing brass instruments. I don't have any plans to become a machinist full time. I have done threading on the lathe once, and it was scary. The instructor was also making me take massive cuts because he was in a hurry. The sound the thing was making sounded like a T-rex.
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Sep 8, 2012 15:43
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Brekelefuw posted:I did take a mandatory millwright course in college when I was learning musical instrument repair, so I have spent a bunch of time on various lathes and milling machines before, but I am doing this to really learn how to do it in more depth so I can make tools for my job repairing brass instruments. I don't have any plans to become a machinist full time. What exactly is massive and what material are we talking about? If it was like, a huge piece of aluminum you can throw quarter inch buttress threads in two passes. Standard V threads in one pass. Steel you generally want 0.050" or less, depending on type of steel and tooling. Then again I'm from the 'Run the Bitch' school of machining.
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Sep 8, 2012 16:52
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Sandvik Coromant tips films on youtube have good milling strategy info that everyone should read.
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Sep 8, 2012 21:20
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So this is a long, kind of self indulgent post. I have been interning in a smithy for the past couple of years. I took the entire summer off and have been spending at least 50hrs per week 6-7 days a week in there working. It has been an amazing experience. I work side by side by some really great blacksmiths, and I have been incredible grateful for everything they teach me. Everyday. Because there is still so much to learn every single day. I got a chance to study metallurgy and really understand heat treatment now. (I'm happy to share what I've learned.) I have had a chance to help forge an 11ft I-beam. (Pretty difficult, even with a second person with a lot of experience.) And we are now preparing the smithy for a new 200lb Nazel power hammer. Very exciting stuff. Here are some personal projects which I finished this summer. For my dad:    For my husband. We call him, Mack the knife.   Baseboard for a bed, for me   My husband named her Lilith.    Me, trying to look tough with my shiny new blades. 
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Sep 9, 2012 08:58
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ArtistCeleste posted:And we are now preparing the smithy for a new 200lb Nazel power hammer. Very exciting stuff. Take pictures of the install process! Then take pictures of it in action! (I need new metalworking porn!) Those are some awesome items you pounded out! Keep up the good work.
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Sep 9, 2012 09:48
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ArtistCeleste posted:Here are some personal projects which I finished this summer.
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Sep 9, 2012 17:06
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Finial on the tang, I just called it the curly thing at the end of the handle. I can't take credit for the idea. The bladesmithing instructor gave it to me. I was his assistant for the bladesmithing class and used a piece of the left over stock of 5160. It had a strong taper at the very end and I wasn't sure what to do with it until he gave me that idea. Alternatively, using the "thread the needle" technique would have also been cool. As far as the Nazel installation goes, I don't know if I will be there for it. I hope they take pictures or video. They are using cushions of compressed air that can lift about 1000lbs a piece. I've never seen anything like it before. I didn't even know the technology existed. If I get video, I will definitely pass it along. Toby Hickman will be teaching a power hammer class with it. I hope I can go, but I might have to work.
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Sep 9, 2012 23:15
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ArtistCeleste posted:As far as the Nazel installation goes, I don't know if I will be there for it. I hope they take pictures or video. They are using cushions of compressed air that can lift about 1000lbs a piece. I've never seen anything like it before. I didn't even know the technology existed. If I get video, I will definitely pass it along. Well, you only need 7psi of air in a 12" x 12" bag to lift 1000lbs... 144 square inches at 7psi is 1008 lbs of lift. Firemen use them all the time for people pinned in wrecks or building collapses, and they use hydraulic bags that can lift several hundred tons. (Albeit slowly, and only inches, but hey you only need inches to drag a pinned person free, usually.) But yeah, if you've never see it before, you'd enjoy watching it.
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Sep 10, 2012 04:14
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ArtistCeleste posted:I can't take credit for the idea.
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Sep 11, 2012 03:39
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Warning: This dude is an rear end in a top hat. Not sure if this video has been posted before. This dude goes the gently caress off because someone said that you absolutely need to have a belt grinder to make a good knife. So this dude cusses a lot and does a video series showing how he forges his knives all the way to a finished product. Its pretty cool, but funny as hell at the same time because he freaks out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4fXt9hWvRE fps_bill fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Sep 12, 2012 |
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Sep 11, 2012 05:40
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Haven't watched it yet, but who says you absolutely have to have a belt grinder to make a good knife? Whoever said that must be blissfully unaware that they made knives for a few thousand years (or depending on what you call a knife, over a million years) before belt grinders were invented. They're very helpful of course, especially for hollow grinding, but you can make an effective knife out of rock and another rock, for gently caress's sake. e. 2.3 million years, and that's just for Homo habilis, who used stone flake tools but wasn't the first stone tool user. We'll discount stone axes because they're not really "knives". If you insist on metal (sensible, given the thread, I suppose), then "good knives" made of copper date to 3500 BC or so. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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Sep 11, 2012 18:30
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He got pissy because he overreacted to a youtube comment (on somebody else's video) and proceeded to make 18 long videos of whining and making a decent knife (all while responding to the mildest comments on those videos like an rear end). He clearly knew what he was doing, but a skilled trade and being an rear end in a top hat aren't exclusive traits.
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Sep 11, 2012 19:39
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Hypnolobster posted:He got pissy because he overreacted to a youtube comment (on somebody else's video) and proceeded to make 18 long videos of whining and making a decent knife (all while responding to the mildest comments on those videos like an rear end). In my experience they're inclusive traits!
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Sep 11, 2012 23:26
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Man, that guy is an rear end in a top hat. I can't watch that. Smokey XIII, I hope you get a chance to meet some nice smiths. So far the smithing community has been friendly and helpful toward me. Most of them seem like pretty good people.
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Sep 12, 2012 06:11
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| # ? May 25, 2024 14:48 |
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I like how the video mentions that he lost his belt sander in the divorce. Gee, I wonder why his wife divorced his hotheaded overreacting rear end.
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Sep 12, 2012 19:28
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