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There is someone that makes an aftermarket rear lip that is an OEM replica, IIRC Rspeed? I'll probably get one eventually with the front lip too, it just rounds out the look especially if it's lowered at all. Probably the only cosmetic mod I would ever consider, although the front lip is kinda functional.
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Aug 31, 2012 02:53
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Sometimes I feel like my car just hates me. I finally got around to doing my leaky slave cylinder rather than just topping off the fluid and bleeding it every once in a while, and after three hours across two days wrestling with a single stuck bolt on what should be a two-bolt 40 minute job I just feel like giving up. Can anyone who has done the job give me some advice on reaching the top bolt of it? I've gone at it with a breaker bar and a 10" extension, I've used a shorter extension and had the wrench inboard of the suspension, I've blasted it with PB blaster 3 times and tapped it hard. I'm frustrated as hell and have bolted the leaky cylinder back up because it seems to think it belongs there forever. I've gotten quotes from two shops to do the job before I tackled it myself, and both wanted over $240. That seems ridiculously high, is that really a reasonable rate to do such a simple job? Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Aug 31, 2012 |
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Aug 31, 2012 03:25
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Weinertron posted:three hours across two days wrestling with a single stuck bolt on what should be a two-bolt 40 minute job I just feel like giving up. There's your answer right there, they need to assume its going to take forever. You cant go around telling your customers "Oh yea that'll be $50 bucks, come pick it up in an hour", and than some bolt wont come out and it takes all day. I say rent a torch. Torches fix bolt problems.
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Aug 31, 2012 05:08
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Or just buy a map gas torch/tank at Home Depot for 15 bucks and try that, would probably work. Either that or just give the PB more time to work, like a few days, dousing it a couple of times a day.
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Aug 31, 2012 05:26
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I didn't have to pay a premium for my r package. The premium market is limited to people interested running a miata in e-stock in solo II. R's came with a bigger rear sway (12mm), stiffer springs (180ish in/lbs f, 95ish in/lbs r) and a stock torsen LSD. Which is all desirable in stock, SCCA doesn't base '' stock'' cars off the BTM. They also came with some Bilstein shocks, larger front sway bar, front and rear lips and a little trunk spoiler. Which any of those don't matter or are replaced in ES. If I had to do it over, I'd buy a 01+ SE and cut all the weight I could..... VVT, 6 spd, 3.9 torsen, and better headlights lol
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Aug 31, 2012 15:14
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craig588 posted:
In my experience with LED replacement bulbs the main issue is similar to doing HID in a halogen housing - the reflector is designed around the bulb. Often this results in poor output even with a ridiculously bright LED cluster because the light isn't hitting the right parts of the housing. This is amplified if the bulb enters the housing at an angle as many cluster LED bulbs have the majority of their output going straight out the end. I've been eying a pair of the 12w bulbs at the top of this page http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm for my Focus's reverse lights but haven't been able to justify $50 on bulbs that may not work out. Geoj fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Aug 31, 2012 |
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Aug 31, 2012 22:21
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A local interior/trim shop should be able to put a small patch on this hole to keep water out, right?
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Sep 3, 2012 13:41
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I feel like a dab of rubber cement on the inside or something could fix that.
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Sep 3, 2012 14:07
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flier129 posted:I didn't have to pay a premium for my r package. The premium market is limited to people interested running a miata in e-stock in solo II. My ex had a 01 SE. I didn't love the 6 speed. Notchy as hell and it was like rowing a boat. The 5 speed is a lot nicer to drive and race in my opinion.
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Sep 3, 2012 19:45
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Sockington posted:A local interior/trim shop should be able to put a small patch on this hole to keep water out, right? I had a fallen tree limb leave a 3" cut in mine. I used Loctite Vinyl/Fabric/Plastic cement and a small patch cut from a black t-shirt as a backing. Put some masking tape on the outside and glue from the inside. I also had to wedge something up under my patch until it dried. It's been almost a year and it's perfect. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Sep 3, 2012 |
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Sep 3, 2012 21:52
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What is the preferred replacement clutch for a 1.6l miata that will see occasional track use, but unlikely to have too many performance mods?
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Sep 4, 2012 15:39
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Mazda's value-priced clutch kit. Throw on a lightweight flywheel if you're feeling frisky. 1.6L: B634-16-490-MV, Retail 1.8L: BP07-16-490-MV Retail Rosenthal wants $107.44 http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/VPM%2CCLUTCH-KIT-%28BP07%252d16%252d490%252dMV%29.html
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Sep 4, 2012 15:49
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while he's asking, what would be a somewhat affordable replacement clutch if you're looking to hold somewhere around 200 horses, maybe 250 tops. I wouldnt mind a heavier pedal so wouldnt a change in pressure plate alone work? (sorry if thats a dumb question). Also, could this flywheel be re-surfaced like a normal one? http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=08-26500 leica posted:There is someone that makes an aftermarket rear lip that is an OEM replica, IIRC Rspeed? I'll probably get one eventually with the front lip too, it just rounds out the look especially if it's lowered at all. Probably the only cosmetic mod I would ever consider, although the front lip is kinda functional. Hope this isnt too late, but heres a really affordable replica. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=471280 Direct ordering link if you dont have a forums account: https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/w...9949b2795cb1d7d Flesh Croissant fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Sep 4, 2012 |
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Sep 4, 2012 17:46
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I think the FM "level 1" clutch is the go to there. You'll need to match it with a 1.8L flywheel.
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Sep 4, 2012 17:50
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Do any of you guys have experience in dealing with mazda competition? I tried signing up with them last month but never got a response when I emailed my autocross results.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:18
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Call them.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:35
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Phone posted:Call them. Oh, good idea. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:47
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Outside of their lunch break, you'll get a person every single time. It rules.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:49
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Thanks for the info. I didn't even realize that you could just call them. I'm hoping to get their spec exhaust. I think it should go well with the jackson racing header and cold air intake I'm getting from my neighbor.
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Sep 5, 2012 02:09
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I picked up the flyin miata level 1 happy meal with the 10.3lb flywheel, and I love it. It took some getting used to, for sure, but I wouldn't say it ruined the ride or anything.
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Sep 5, 2012 03:24
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Anybody have experience with their car throwing a P0340 code? I was sitting at the bank yesterday and the car suddenly died and would not restart. About an hour later I came back to it and she started right up no problem. I had been sitting in line idling for several minutes so I wonder if the sensor didn't just get too hot while already starting to fail. I have the local parts store ordering me a cam angle sensor and will replace that as soon as I get it. Should I go ahead and replace the crankshaft position sensor as well? Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 19:31
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Yes, unfortunately I do, at least I think it was P0340. But in any case it was the cam sensor, you can check my previous posts here for more details. Took one minute to swap out, but getting stuck randomly was a huge pain in the rear end before the replacement arrived. I wouldn't bother with the crank as the cam sensor frequently shits itself all on its own, as it turns out.
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Sep 5, 2012 19:44
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mobby_6kl posted:Yes, unfortunately I do, at least I think it was P0340. But in any case it was the cam sensor, you can check my previous posts here for more details. Took one minute to swap out, but getting stuck randomly was a huge pain in the rear end before the replacement arrived. I wouldn't bother with the crank as the cam sensor frequently shits itself all on its own, as it turns out. Thanks; your situation sounds a lot like mine. (hot as hell. Plus in my case I was idling so no airflow through the engine bay) I'm hoping it's just the CAS. Fortunately we have another car so I get to drive the 1999 Lumina with 3100 glory for work today. 
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Sep 5, 2012 19:51
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Left rear turn signal assembly, NB ('01). Dealer wants 255, junkyard is not an option around here. Anywhere better to go? (loving Dean of our Business Department backed into it)
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Sep 5, 2012 21:28
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GD_American posted:Left rear turn signal assembly, NB ('01). Dealer wants 255, junkyard is not an option around here. Anywhere better to go? Pay the dealer. Pass the bill to the guy that loving hit it.
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Sep 5, 2012 21:29
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midge posted:Pay the dealer. Pass the bill to the guy that loving hit it. Eh I'm not knocking myself out to save him money. But he was nice enough to leave a note and tell the security guard, so I figured I'd do 10 minutes of looking around first.
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Sep 5, 2012 21:30
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Rockauto has it for 126$ gently caress giving the dealer money just because it's not yours.
craig588 fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 21:33
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There should be plenty on eBay if it's not time sensitive.
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Sep 5, 2012 21:34
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craig588 posted:Rockauto has it for 126$ gently caress giving the dealer money just because it's not yours. gently caress using non-OEM parts. He broke an OEM light, he pays for an OEM light.
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Sep 5, 2012 22:57
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Savington posted:gently caress using non-OEM parts. He broke an OEM light, he pays for an OEM light. I usually feel like this, but it's a turn signal and the guy was ok by me. If I can't tell the difference I won't have a problem with it.
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Sep 5, 2012 23:10
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What rollbar should I get goons? Car is a weekend driver I want to AutoX once I fix brakes I have an aftermarket glass window top, not sure brand I want to eventually have a hardtop Don't want to spend a buttload VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV 5'6" tall 1993 Miata djfooboo fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 01:25
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How tall are you? Which generation Miata?
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Sep 6, 2012 02:28
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Also, check the rules surrounding bars where you want to run. Everywhere around here goes by SCCA for rollbars, which is broomstick test OR as tall as possible while under the top.
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Sep 6, 2012 03:02
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I'm looking at a 1990 Miata with 68k on Saturday. I've never really looked at Miatas before so I don't know what I should be looking for exactly. Are there any spots that are particularly vulnerable to rust? Any hidden places that might show wear & tear? This one is supposed to be recently serviced but the low price is throwing me for a loop.
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Sep 6, 2012 04:26
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I faxed all of my money to Savington.. build thread incoming ssssssssh
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Sep 6, 2012 05:18
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GD_American posted:I usually feel like this, but it's a turn signal and the guy was ok by me. If I can't tell the difference I won't have a problem with it. Depending on the damage (still works) I'd say get a used oem off ebay, or if you need one asap (it's screwed) just go through the dealer. I'd check around on the quality of the aftermarket lenses before I ordered one from Rockauto.
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Sep 6, 2012 07:06
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Can someone recommend a radio that fits an NA with a minimal amount of work? My stock radio is flaking out and I think I'm on my 2nd stock radio. I want something that looks cheap/stockish so someone doesn't mess with it.
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Sep 6, 2012 15:10
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n8r posted:Can someone recommend a radio that fits an NA with a minimal amount of work? My stock radio is flaking out and I think I'm on my 2nd stock radio. I want something that looks cheap/stockish so someone doesn't mess with it. A recommendation I saw on miata.net was a stock radio from the same generation-ish 626. Supposed to be an upgrade in quality and reliability.
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Sep 6, 2012 15:33
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mobby_6kl posted:Yes, unfortunately I do, at least I think it was P0340. But in any case it was the cam sensor, you can check my previous posts here for more details. Took one minute to swap out, but getting stuck randomly was a huge pain in the rear end before the replacement arrived. I wouldn't bother with the crank as the cam sensor frequently shits itself all on its own, as it turns out. Installed
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Sep 6, 2012 20:29
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New plate time. WHEEEEE or NOTGAY? Both available.
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Sep 7, 2012 02:18
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