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Reichstag posted:It's because they are too awesome, seriously. Do you have one? Less than 24 hours and I'm already hooked. Paired with a Jupiter 8 (or equivalent) it kicks mucho rear end. This weekend I'm going to a balloon festival, guess which camera I'm taking with me. :> (and an Orion 15 wide)
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Sep 7, 2012 09:42
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This is what happens when I rely on zone focus because the rangefinder on my XA is badly out of calibration   Pylsur by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr Thanks to Man_of_Teflon, though, I have a new, perfectly calibrated XA! 
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Sep 7, 2012 13:56
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MrBlandAverage posted:Thanks to Man_of_Teflon, though, I have a new, perfectly calibrated XA! Does Man_of_Teflon know how to make the rangefinder patch visible again on an XA?
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Sep 7, 2012 17:00
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eggsovereasy posted:Does Man_of_Teflon know how to make the rangefinder patch visible again on an XA? I didn't get mine fixed, I just bought another one  Dim rangefinder patch usually means you just need a good cleaning!
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Sep 7, 2012 17:02
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maxmars posted:Do you have one? Less than 24 hours and I'm already hooked. Paired with a Jupiter 8 (or equivalent) it kicks mucho rear end. I used to have one, first with a Jupiter-8 and then with a Nokton 50/1.5 and it was fantastic, but I ended up selling it when I realized I didn't shoot street very much.
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Sep 7, 2012 19:24
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Reichstag posted:I used to have one, first with a Jupiter-8 and then with a Nokton 50/1.5 and it was fantastic, but I ended up selling it when I realized I didn't shoot street very much. Ah I see. Understandable! I love the "Voigtlander Germany since 1756" (or something) writing on the top and the "Made in Japan" stamp on the bottom. I want to believe they were just loving with us.
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Sep 7, 2012 21:23
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eggsovereasy posted:Does Man_of_Teflon know how to make the rangefinder patch visible again on an XA? Quickest way fix a rangefinder is to put a tiny bit of tape over the spot, worked well on Minolta Hi-Matix 7sii.
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Sep 7, 2012 23:32
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Spedman posted:Quickest way fix a rangefinder is to put a tiny bit of tape over the spot, worked well on Minolta Hi-Matix 7sii.
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Sep 8, 2012 08:52
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 Lady with Dog by atomicthumbs, on Flickr acros good
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Sep 9, 2012 06:54
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You want some salt to go with that pepper?
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Sep 9, 2012 06:58
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Reichstag posted:You want some salt to go with that pepper? http://youtu.be/k4onJ7Z2MLI Better now?
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Sep 9, 2012 07:04
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Reichstag posted:You want some salt to go with that pepper? acros good, but picture severely overexposed because of wrong metering acros grain in nearly blown-out areas bad
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Sep 9, 2012 07:18
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First time shooting Astia and I love it! Juria by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Sep 9, 2012 13:49
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alkanphel posted:First time shooting Astia and I love it! I absolutely love the look of Astia, I've been dying to use some Fuji colour reversal films, especially Astia and Provia 400x.
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Sep 9, 2012 14:16
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wrong thread oops.
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Sep 9, 2012 15:51
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atomicthumbs posted:acros good, but picture severely overexposed because of wrong metering You just need to shoot larger formats.  I didn't see any weird grain in this shot overexposed by 7 stops...
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Sep 9, 2012 19:53
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MrBlandAverage posted:You just need to shoot larger formats. That is such a fantastic subject for LF.
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Sep 9, 2012 23:34
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I'm looking to get a few shots of touristy destinations while I'm in Paris, and I'm wondering how that effect is achieved, MrBlandAverage. It's done with an ND filter, right? Is there a guide anywhere online to help me perfect it. I won't have many chances to go back to retake the photos, heh.
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Sep 10, 2012 04:46
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scotty posted:I'm looking to get a few shots of touristy destinations while I'm in Paris, and I'm wondering how that effect is achieved, MrBlandAverage. It's done with an ND filter, right? Is there a guide anywhere online to help me perfect it. I won't have many chances to go back to retake the photos, heh. Yep, it's the B+W 10-stop ND and it was supposed to be 1 min f/64 but was actually 1min f/5.6  Use Acros or else be sure you know how much to correct for reciprocity failure.
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Sep 10, 2012 04:54
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Would these shots be possible with any type of color film?
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Sep 10, 2012 05:24
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With an ND filter, you're just limiting the amount of light going through the lens, lengthening the time it takes for a correct exposure. So yes it would work with any kind of film as well as on digital sensors.
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Sep 10, 2012 05:46
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scotty posted:Would these shots be possible with any type of color film? Yeah, you'll just have a color cast to deal with, not only from the differing reciprocity failure of each color layer, but also from a filter that dense.
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Sep 10, 2012 06:02
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 Bolinas Afternoon, Fog Retreating by atomicthumbs, on Flickr Acros good
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Sep 10, 2012 08:17
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How do you guys save money with film? I mean, $7 developments + CD's add up. :/ And developing film is practically impossible on your own unless if it's black & white and you've got your own scanner. I prefer analog over digital (probably because my DLSR is corrupting all of my drives), I like that I only need the bare minimum. Do you really need all of those menus and HD video?
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Sep 10, 2012 10:13
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Miskatonic posted:How do you guys save money with film? I mean, $7 developments + CD's add up. :/ You really can't save much money with film. Buying a scanner can help, so can shooting B&W and home developing, or you can find some place cheaper to get your C41 developed even if it means you have to wait for mail out service. Frankly film is getting more expensive all the time. I shoot film because I like it and will continue to do so as long as film is available.
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Sep 10, 2012 10:31
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Speaking of not-B&W, what do you dudes with MF outfits shoot for slides?
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Sep 10, 2012 11:02
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Yeah, I'm one of those people who's going to shoot film until it's gone completely, even if it is bankrupting. You can't really save money in the long run. You could always bulk buy film and load it yourself, maybe even develop yourself, then buy a scanner but there's still so much money to go into it. Quantum of Phallus fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Sep 10, 2012 |
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Sep 10, 2012 11:03
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evil_bunnY posted:Speaking of not-B&W, what do you dudes with MF outfits shoot for slides? I like Astia and Velvia 50. Astia has been discontinued though so I don't expect to find much more of it.
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Sep 10, 2012 11:27
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MrBlandAverage posted:You just need to shoot larger formats. So basically those small wheels on your camera (you know, aperture, shutter speed) are just there to show off and look pro? 
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Sep 10, 2012 13:35
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maxmars posted:So basically those small wheels on your camera (you know, aperture, shutter speed) are just there to show off and look pro? Look at this guy, using a camera with dials.
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Sep 10, 2012 14:14
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Miskatonic posted:And developing film is practically impossible on your own unless if it's black & white and you've got your own scanner. I've said this too many times, but if you can do B&W you can do E6 and C41, it's really not hard, all you do is follow the instructions to the letter in terms of development times and you can't go wrong. evil_bunnY posted:Speaking of not-B&W, what do you dudes with MF outfits shoot for slides? I shot a lot of Ektachrome GX and expired Ektachrome (like 10 years expired), I found I really hate Provia 400X and don't mind playing with Velvia.
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Sep 10, 2012 14:14
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Miskatonic posted:How do you guys save money with film? Buy more cameras! I've got three 35mm rangefinders, that would have cost like $30,000 in digital. I'm ahead of the game for the next $29,800 in film costs!
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Sep 10, 2012 14:43
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evil_bunnY posted:Speaking of not-B&W, what do you dudes with MF outfits shoot for slides? I shoot Velvia 50 for nature shots, Provia 100F and 400X are great for general purpose photos. And like 8th-samurai said, Astia is wonderful but out of production. Here are some headshots I did recently in the studio with Astia:  Jun by alkanphel, on Flickr  ABC by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Sep 10, 2012 23:49
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Miskatonic posted:How do you guys save money with film? To keep costs from spiraling out of control, what I do: 1. Buy cheap film. No, cheaper than that. Free is best, and can show up in surprising places. Cheap means expired, typically. Ebay, Craigslist (or local equivalent), and photo forums such as the Dorkroom are good places to look for el-cheapo filmo. 2. Scan it yourself. My local camera shop charges less than $4 for develop-only, but about $10 if they scan it and put the scans on a CD. Their scans are decent - the white balance and tone will be reasonably good, and they're good at avoiding dust, but they're not $6 good. 2a. A used flatbed scanner with lid-light for transparencies (i.e. film) costs almost nothing; mine was $20. New, something like the well-regarded Epson V500 goes for around $100-150. These are not large numbers. 2b. If you're like me, you'll run into problems with your shooting (exposure errors, poor composition, slightly missed focus) before you run into the limitations of your scanner. You'll get better at scanning technique very quickly, it's a much less complicated skill than shooting. When you reach the limits of your scanner, an upgrade will cost considerably less than a new DSLR body or mid-to-high-range lens, which would be the typical "I've-reach-my-limits" upgrade path in digital. 3. Develop it yourself. Spedman is absolutely, 100% correct - it's not hard at all. Can you follow a recipe and not accidentally kill your dinner guests? Yes? Good, you can develop film. It takes about the same amount of time as making an average, every-day kind of meal. At least, for me. 4. Indulge the urge to blow money on photo stuff only in the realm of film. Buy a big lot of film that will take months to shoot - that's only gonna cost someone like me $40-60. Buy a new-to-you manual-focus lens - again, from about $40 up to maybe $200 for something extra-shiny. Buy a new-to-you SLR or rangefinder (obviously, the first new-to-you film SLR you buy should be a Pentax ME, MX, or ME Super).
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Sep 11, 2012 02:43
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 Untitled by atomicthumbs, on Flickr Edit:  Coyote Land, Fog Sea by atomicthumbs, on Flickr I've processed far more photos over the past couple of days than I usually do in a month. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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Sep 11, 2012 04:34
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I just got my second set of overly dense negs from this new lab and after developing, scanning, and tax one roll cost me $28bux. They did a good job with developing my film so I may use them for my odd rolls in the future, but I definitely need to find another lab if I want to continue developing C41 not at home. I'm totally getting a god damned scanner because ten rolls of film scanned by these guys is more expensive than a V600 and a film holder. I'm not sure how i feel about the grain on Kodak Gold 400, but it was definately worth the money to get confirmation that my dad's old PEN-EES works. Before I go posting photos should I post future photos from this camera in this thread, the Point and Shoot, or the toy camera thread?
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Sep 11, 2012 23:34
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Wikipedia says it's a point and shoot, I wouldn't call them a toy camera.
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Sep 12, 2012 00:16
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Mr. Despair posted:Wikipedia says it's a point and shoot, I wouldn't call them a toy camera. Well then I'll just go hang out with my point and shoot buddies then. 
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Sep 12, 2012 00:21
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Have fun over there with the non Pentax ME Super loser krew. 
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Sep 12, 2012 00:23
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What's a good digital incident light meter I can find for $100 or less used? Is there one that cheap that has good low-light capability and can also do spot metering?
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Sep 12, 2012 01:55
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