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berzerkmonkey posted:Umm, ok... How come almost all of them look better than the winner? Because the rest of them weren't gundams. On an unrelated note, do the new GW washes still make that really glossy sheen? I mean I know I can knock it down with some matte varnish at the end, just curious. Similarly, does anyone have any tips for muting the shine on metallics? I hate NMM because I don't want to spend the time hashing out a light source and then having a bunch of models that only look good from one angle, but metallic paints are just so drat shiny. I want a dingy scrap iron look, but even the darker metallics look gaudy as hell a lot of the time.
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Sep 14, 2012 17:21
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Honey Badger posted:On an unrelated note, do the new GW washes still make that really glossy sheen? I mean I know I can knock it down with some matte varnish at the end, just curious. They're not supposed to have that problem; frankly the old ones shouldn't have had that problem either as long as you shook up the pot first.
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Sep 14, 2012 17:32
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!amicable posted:
But I don't think I'll do anything more for my army though. I got the last of my stuff done not too long ago, so I consider it finished now. Only thing left to do would be some completed army pics for this thread.
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Sep 14, 2012 18:00
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SRM posted:They're not supposed to have that problem; frankly the old ones shouldn't have had that problem either as long as you shook up the pot first. The inks did, though. I know I mixed them up a couple of times.
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Sep 14, 2012 18:19
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Isn't rubbing alcohol a paint stripper? I know it's taken a few layers of some models I've done. Are you just super light with the alcohol? I put down a coat of gloss varnish before I start using anything with alcohol on it. The varnish is usually tough enough to withstand casual abuse from even 99% rubbing alcohol. I can rub it a bit and play around with the pigments after they dried if I want to lighten up some areas, but if I scrub it too much or too hard it will rub off the varnish and start to remove the paint below.  loving hottttt. A shame he didn't pick out the details/gems, I bet it would look amazing. Any idea what color he used there? I know I've gotten a nice metallic red from my airbrush paints with a silver undercoat, but nothing quite like those.
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Sep 14, 2012 18:33
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The Saddest Robot posted:I put down a coat of gloss varnish before I start using anything with alcohol on it. The varnish is usually tough enough to withstand casual abuse from even 99% rubbing alcohol. I can rub it a bit and play around with the pigments after they dried if I want to lighten up some areas, but if I scrub it too much or too hard it will rub off the varnish and start to remove the paint below. Just a guess but I'd say it was something like this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=TESR2505
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Sep 14, 2012 18:56
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It really looks like Tamiya clear red airbrushed over a metallic base coat. I've seen it used a lot on Gundam models.
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Sep 14, 2012 19:12
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Looking to pick up some plasticard to beef up my marines a bit (not quite "true-scale", just less hunched looking), does anyone have a recommendation for where to buy the stuff at? Also, how hard is to actually shim plasticard spacers to fit? I've seen a lot of tutorials where people just add a 1mm spacer in the middle of the legs / greaves / foot, and having never worked with plasticard before I'm wondering how hard that is. Is it going to be hours of me cursing and trying to file them down properly, or is it a pretty simple job?
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Sep 14, 2012 19:40
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It could also be Krylon Xmetals. I've used it to speedpaint Cygnar before and it looked pretty much just like that.
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Sep 14, 2012 21:09
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I need some help with my airbrush. I have an Iwata Revolution, and its not spraying paint.  When I hook it up to the air compressor, I can get air to come out of it. But no paint. I thought maybe it had gotten clogged since I last used it, so I took it to my kitchen, and disassembled it. I rinsed everything out. With the little point rod out of it, water flowed just fine from the paint pot out to the tip. So I began to reassemble it. When I screwed in the tip with the wrench (which would be piece #3 on this image), water would no longer run thru the airbrush. I poked the rod through the tip to see if it was clogged, but no luck. So what's wrong with my airbrush? What idiotic thing am I doing wrong?
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Sep 14, 2012 21:12
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Oxford Comma posted:I need some help with my airbrush. The needle may be pushed too far forward. Try easing it back some then repeating the process.
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Sep 14, 2012 22:13
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FiendishThingy posted:It really looks like Tamiya clear red airbrushed over a metallic base coat. I've seen it used a lot on Gundam models. its that. Its a pretty widely duplicated technique for painting Sazabi (gundams.) You gotta use lacquers to do it usually. I have never seen it done with acrylics
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Sep 14, 2012 22:51
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Sole.Sushi posted:The needle may be pushed too far forward. Try easing it back some then repeating the process. That was it. Thanks!
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Sep 15, 2012 02:31
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Fauxtool posted:its that. Its a pretty widely duplicated technique for painting Sazabi (gundams.) The Forgeworld Great Brass Scorpion was painted this way with acrylics, using layers of varnish to finish it off.
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Sep 15, 2012 02:35
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berzerkmonkey posted:Umm, ok... How come almost all of them look better than the winner? Nobody there knew how to photograph miniatures excellently. The winner was very much the grimdark shades of brown, realistic rubble school (still the popular style to win awards with) and there are a lot of things to like about the winner. Wonderful detail in places (the flies on its right shoulder and on the lamp), good weathering and a nice 'realistic' version of the tau that actually have to deal with dirty poo poo. Not that you can't just go to the frontpage of cmon to better stuff though:    
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Sep 15, 2012 04:06
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Anyone know how to get the metallic effect of that D3 Barbarian's shoudlerpad there? I really want to get that dingy metal look but I can't figure out how to keep it from looking flat and shiny, even with washes. Is it just a hell of a lot of different washes combined together or something?
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Sep 15, 2012 04:37
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There probably aren't any metals used, or if there are, they're only on the edge highlights.
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Sep 15, 2012 04:45
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Lots of new Catachan! Still not happy with my lighting and macro photography, but least it lets me see all the little details I need to eventually fix... My goal was was to expand my current Catachan army using allies from the Grey Knights Codex, chosen for modeling opportunities rather than strategy. First up the five Crusaders with power weapons and storm shields. Yes, I noticed the Chaos guy's floating wonky eye! He's not tainted by the ruinous powers! Each model corresponds with one of my armies, my brother's armies, or one of our friend's armies.      Here's Coteaz, who runs with the Crusaders:  The whole squad together:  Eight boltgun henchmen, one with a flamer as well:  The construction Sentinel 'Dreadnought':  Vindicare Sniper:  All 500 points of allies. Clearly not chosen for a tactical advantage!  Here's the entire army as it stands with allies: 
BuffaloChicken fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 10:52
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Does that shield have a Creeper face? I love these. That sentinel is especially sexy.
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Sep 15, 2012 11:04
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Gloss varnish on NMM parts of a model, y/n?
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Sep 15, 2012 14:14
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CyberLord XP posted:Gloss varnish on NMM parts of a model, y/n?
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Sep 15, 2012 14:41
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I'd say no, unless you were going for a wet/slick or unpainted metal finish (which most painted metals do not have). Maybe satin varnish instead of full gloss otherwise.
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Sep 15, 2012 14:43
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BuffaloChicken posted:Here's Coteaz, who runs with the Crusaders:
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Sep 15, 2012 17:02
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Just want to post for the record that if/when I re-start Eldar I want to use that candy-apple red car paint idea. And that buffalochicken's army is an inspiration to a kitbasher like myself. 
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Sep 15, 2012 17:28
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Buffalochicken, your theme with the Crusaders is so good I just have to share the idea with my friends. In short, SRM posted:Never, ever stop.
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Sep 15, 2012 17:51
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Honey Badger posted:Looking to pick up some plasticard to beef up my marines a bit (not quite "true-scale", just less hunched looking), does anyone have a recommendation for where to buy the stuff at? Check any local Hobby/model shop. Any good one should have some in stock. If not, just order multiple sizes from the net. It's pretty cheap, so you can have plenty to practice with. Shimming(or even scratch-building) with plasticard should be a snap. It's a much softer, forgiving plastic than most model kits. It's easy to cut and carve on. It should bond to Warhammer kits with styrene cement like the green Tamiya stuff or Tenax, and be very strong once dry.
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Sep 15, 2012 17:59
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Twistershift posted:Check any local Hobby/model shop. Any good one should have some in stock. If not, just order multiple sizes from the net. It's pretty cheap, so you can have plenty to practice with. For Sale signs are made of the same stuff, too.
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Sep 15, 2012 18:16
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I am no doubt late to complain about this but i cant believe (actually i can believe) GW have put the DV painting guide only on the ipad. I have bought i lot of your crud over the years GW but i am going to have to filez this one. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 15, 2012 18:38
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I am no doubt late to complain about this but i cant believe (actually i can believe) GW have put the DV painting guide only on the ipad. I have bought i lot of your crud over the years GW but i am going to have to filez this one. It sucks since I'm honestly curious how they paint DA now. I like their paint-by-numbers system as a baseline for painting that I can build on from there. I'm sure DA are just the standard Dark Angels Green/next lightest green highlight/green wash or whatever, but I'm curious how they paint their Deathwing. I don't have an iPad so it's not like I'm gonna find that out anytime soon.
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Sep 15, 2012 18:51
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Yeah i am not bothered about the techniques but i want to know what colours they use at the different stages.
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Sep 15, 2012 18:59
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BuffaloChicken, please be my dad.
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Sep 15, 2012 19:20
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SRM posted:It sucks since I'm honestly curious how they paint DA now. I like their paint-by-numbers system as a baseline for painting that I can build on from there. I'm sure DA are just the standard Dark Angels Green/next lightest green highlight/green wash or whatever, but I'm curious how they paint their Deathwing. I don't have an iPad so it's not like I'm gonna find that out anytime soon. Ushabti Bone. Wash the recesses Sepia. Clean up with Ushabti, edge highlight with Screaming Skull and do a final highlight with White Scar. If the How To Paint Citadel book is aimed a newer painters and is full of nice/important techniques, the iPad How to Paint Dark Vengeance is aimed at people who have almost never touched a brush before and/or are a bit retarded and won't care if the details are never explained. The Dark Angels have a pretty amusing tron-ish look to them. It's honestly bad. If you're curious about some paint schemes I can look them up and summarize them for you, for what it's worth. e: This is what I mean  Hello thar, lovely 
Mango Polo fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 19:25
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What's their technique for that green?
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Sep 16, 2012 02:56
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I honestly don't even remember painting these guys anymore; they show up on my desk and a day or two later they're done.   
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Sep 16, 2012 04:25
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Woot.com has an air compressor today. Jump on it! http://home.woot.com/ I've never used an air compressor so I can't vouch for this brand
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Sep 16, 2012 06:02
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Does anyone have an experience with wiring LEDs? Mainly the electrical wiring layout on how to hook up a led to a 1.5v watch battery. I also want it to last so does that mean I just add more and more resistors to it?
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Sep 16, 2012 06:43
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Adding resistors won't do much of anything, really; too many and you end up with a dim bulb and more resistors means more points of failure. Depending on the strength of the battery, you shouldn't have to add more than one. An LED with good wiring will also last for a drat long time (10+ years, very likely more).
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Sep 16, 2012 07:05
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EVIR Gibson posted:Does anyone have an experience with wiring LEDs? Mainly the electrical wiring layout on how to hook up a led to a 1.5v watch battery. I also want it to last so does that mean I just add more and more resistors to it? For a watch battery you should be pretty solid. Add a switch in there unless you want to futz around with taking the battery out all the time.
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Sep 16, 2012 07:34
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The resistors need to match the current drain of the LED if I remember correctly. That means you'll need to know or guess the specs of the LED. Google "LED resistor calculation" or something like that. If you go without you can burn out the LED or empty the battery faster.
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Sep 16, 2012 08:53
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Red Robin Hood posted:Woot.com has an air compressor today. Jump on it! The operating PSI is much higher than what you'll need for your airbrush. It could still work but that's a red flag to me.
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Sep 16, 2012 09:48
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