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HardCoil posted:The resistors need to match the current drain of the LED if I remember correctly. That means you'll need to know or guess the specs of the LED. Google "LED resistor calculation" or something like that. If you go without you can burn out the LED or empty the battery faster. I've seen tracking markers that were literally just a battery, an LED and a rubber sleeve. No wiring, no resistors, just the contacts of the LED either side of the battery. I'm not sure what the specs on the components were though.
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Sep 16, 2012 10:32
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I am no doubt late to complain about this but i cant believe (actually i can believe) GW have put the DV painting guide only on the ipad. I have bought i lot of your crud over the years GW but i am going to have to filez this one. Warseer
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Sep 16, 2012 10:48
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SRM posted:What's their technique for that green? 1. Basecoat Caliban Green 2. Wash Nuln Oil 3. Reapply Caliban Green leaving out the recesses 4. First highlight with Warpstone Glow 5. Final highlight with Moot Green
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Sep 16, 2012 11:41
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They don't happen to have a Thousand Sons scheme available, do they? A buddy of mine is getting back into the hobby after last playing 3rd Ed. and he's feeling a bit overwhelmed.
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Sep 16, 2012 11:47
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BlackIronHeart posted:They don't happen to have a Thousand Sons scheme available, do they? A buddy of mine is getting back into the hobby after last playing 3rd Ed. and he's feeling a bit overwhelmed. Nope, but tell him to wait a bit for the new codex to come out. it will be accompanied by a similar painting guide (but hopefully not of the same 'quality')
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Sep 16, 2012 12:31
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Mango Polo posted:it will be accompanied by a similar painting guide Fixed.
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Sep 16, 2012 15:14
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 So this is why nobody makes tanks out of pewter anymore. Holy poo poo. moths fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 15:19
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moths posted:
What is that from?
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Sep 16, 2012 15:23
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They're a pair of old Minifig/GFI 15mm British Wippits. I tried bending them into shape as best I could, but there was still a millimeter gap in places. It's funny watching these kids grumble about Finecast.
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Sep 16, 2012 15:39
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moths posted:They're a pair of old Minifig/GFI 15mm British Wippits. I tried bending them into shape as best I could, but there was still a millimeter gap in places. The scale modelling crowd has been dealing with worse in small-run kits for decades.
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Sep 16, 2012 16:20
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Mango Polo posted:1. Basecoat Caliban Green Thank you! I'm okay with the paint-by-numbers approach since I'm getting Dark Vengeance today and I might want to do up the Dark Angels as allies for my Valhallans.
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Sep 16, 2012 16:42
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I've seen tracking markers that were literally just a battery, an LED and a rubber sleeve. No wiring, no resistors, just the contacts of the LED either side of the battery. Assuming a typical 3V watch battery, the worst that'll happen is you'll maybe shorten the life of your LED (so you'll only get 5000 hours instead of 10,000, oh darn) and the battery might drain a little faster. Depending on the battery, it might have a pretty high internal resistance, so you can totally get away with no resistor for something like this. Also, google "LED throwie." I've used LEDs for lighting stuff up, I had five standing stones with runes that glowed from the inside, and for those, I just used the leads off the LED to clip right onto the battery. To turn it off, you either remove the battery or just turn it around backwards in the LED clip, worked great, the batteries last plenty long that way. Not "sit on a shelf lit up for a week" long but easily "multiple gaming sessions and a lot of loving around." I posted the stones at some point in this thread, I'll edit in a link in a sec... e: here was the post with the stones: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=143187#post398186924 Bad Munki posted:Dormant: e: The guts of the stones: Works fine, lasts plenty long. But if you want to get "fancy:" However, imho the overdriven LED looks better and is worth the shortened battery life. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 16:50
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SRM posted:Thank you! I'm okay with the paint-by-numbers approach since I'm getting Dark Vengeance today and I might want to do up the Dark Angels as allies for my Valhallans. May I suggest this guide then? Just as easy, and overall I think it looks much better.
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Sep 16, 2012 17:07
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Bavius posted:The operating PSI is much higher than what you'll need for your airbrush. It could still work but that's a red flag to me. That's not unusual, just throw a regulator on it. My compressor/tank runs at 100psi and I usually spray around 25psi. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for painting glossy white? I'm thinking about going for a plastic/ceramic look (kinda like stormtrooper armor), but I'm not having any luck. I'm not looking for reflections or anything, but something more than gloss varnish will add.
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Sep 16, 2012 18:28
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Bad Munki posted:Assuming a typical 3V watch battery, the worst that'll happen is you'll maybe shorten the life of your LED (so you'll only get 5000 hours instead of 10,000, oh darn) and the battery might drain a little faster. Depending on the battery, it might have a pretty high internal resistance, so you can totally get away with no resistor for something like this. Also, google "LED throwie." This is awesome. I will keep this in mind for the next dreadnought I assemble or break open.
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Sep 16, 2012 18:44
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CrotchPheasant posted:That's not unusual, just throw a regulator on it. My compressor/tank runs at 100psi and I usually spray around 25psi. Good deal - I'd heard of people using giant tanks of air filled up at the gas station - didn't realize you could just slap a regulator on that and be alright.
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Sep 16, 2012 19:39
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Tried airbrushing for the first time today and holy poo poo I'm sold! Me and two buddies basically got a Stormwall to TT standard in six hours.  It's still a WIP though and we'll keep working on it but I'm super stoked to continue experimenting.
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Sep 16, 2012 19:43
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SRM posted:Thank you! I'm okay with the paint-by-numbers approach since I'm getting Dark Vengeance today and I might want to do up the Dark Angels as allies for my Valhallans. I used that method but instead of the Nuln wash step, I went from Caliban to highlights, then used a lamp black oil wash. It's not the best photo, and the varnish messed up the green a bit but still, Dark Angels are sexy. 
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Sep 16, 2012 20:12
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Bad Munki posted:Assuming a typical 3V watch battery, the worst that'll happen is you'll maybe shorten the life of your LED (so you'll only get 5000 hours instead of 10,000, oh darn) and the battery might drain a little faster. Depending on the battery, it might have a pretty high internal resistance, so you can totally get away with no resistor for something like this. Also, google "LED throwie." Thanks! What I'm trying to do is take these translucent bases Wyrd have made and put a LED under them.  There is an minion that looks like the Oogey Boogy from Nightmare Before Christmast (Stitched Together) you can hire with an ability called Creepy Fog which puts out a 4" aura. I want to put a switch on the base and turn it on when this fog is up because... it's up a lot 
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Sep 16, 2012 20:47
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I got a set of Windsor and Newton brushes for my birthday so I can paint my Zombicide guys. I know I saw a link or a post with some brush care information in this thread, but I can't find it now. Anyone have that link, or that info? While I'm at it, I dislike pot paint, because I'm bad at remembering how much of it I mixed to make a color. Do Vallejo paints use droppers? Is there something I can get to make it take longer to dry so I can do more at once with a color? Are there any specific color names that Vallejo makes that I'd want for the basic red/blue/yellow/white/black? I know Citadel names everything dumb, and I don't want to end up with a black that isn't very black.
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Sep 16, 2012 20:48
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Kruller posted:I got a set of Windsor and Newton brushes for my birthday so I can paint my Zombicide guys. I know I saw a link or a post with some brush care information in this thread, but I can't find it now. Anyone have that link, or that info? You can use a retarder to make it dry slower which people do use for fading. If you are really into it, you can go down that path of oil paints which are garunteed to stay moist for a couple hours.
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Sep 16, 2012 20:56
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Kruller posted:While I'm at it, I dislike pot paint, because I'm bad at remembering how much of it I mixed to make a color. Do Vallejo paints use droppers? Is there something I can get to make it take longer to dry so I can do more at once with a color? Are there any specific color names that Vallejo makes that I'd want for the basic red/blue/yellow/white/black? I know Citadel names everything dumb, and I don't want to end up with a black that isn't very black.
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Sep 16, 2012 20:59
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Kruller posted:I got a set of Windsor and Newton brushes for my birthday so I can paint my Zombicide guys. I know I saw a link or a post with some brush care information in this thread, but I can't find it now. Anyone have that link, or that info? You want to make a wet palette, with a sealable one in a Tupperware container, you can use a colour for days without it drying at all, they're awesome, and really simple to put together, once you use one you wont go back
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Sep 16, 2012 22:16
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C-C-C-oval office posted:You want to make a wet palette, with a sealable one in a Tupperware container, you can use a colour for days without it drying at all, they're awesome, and really simple to put together, once you use one you wont go back How does one actually make a wet palette? How does it work? 
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Sep 17, 2012 22:43
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TheBlobThing posted:How does one actually make a wet palette? How does it work? Take a plastic tub or tupperware container. Put kitchen towel, sponge or similar absorbent material in the bottom. Add water such that it is wet, but not dripping (I usually get it wet, then tip out the excess). Add a layer of baking paper (not greaseproof). Mix and paint from it.
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Sep 17, 2012 22:47
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This is a good guide because it uses parts you might have around if you buy minis. http://handcannononline.com/blog/2012/06/15/a-beginners-guide-to-wet-palates-build-your-own/
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Sep 17, 2012 22:57
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So I spent the past week or so painting 40 Mantic skeletons for my VC army.     You'll have to excuse the colors a bit; the lighting in my basement is complete crap, and I've yet to get some proper lighting for the photo booth I'm going to make. Had to run it through Gimp and adjust the brightness, but even then it still came out a bit faded  Also, magnets!  Rare earth magnets under each base, with a rubber steel sheet on the movement tray. It holds remarkably well and makes game set-up that much easier.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:34
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Nicely done! How did you add the magnets to the bases? Mantic bases aren't hollow.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:41
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Mulgggggggggggggg  crosspostin' the illest Trollblood around   
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Sep 18, 2012 01:43
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Aw jesus gently caress. I carved a nifty base for my kraken out of pink foam, and primed it without giving it an elmer's glue seal. 
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Sep 18, 2012 01:49
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Crayvex posted:Nicely done! How did you add the magnets to the bases? Mantic bases aren't hollow. What I would like to say is that I drilled holes in the bases first, then glued the models into it but uh...yeah, I was dumb and didn't think that far ahead. I still drilled a hole using my drill bit, but it required a lot of patience and figuring out the right depth without drilling too deep into the base. It's not something I recommend, ever.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:57
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Manifest posted:Aw jesus gently caress. Couple coats of matte varnish? Or just glue and reprime.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:08
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Fyrbrand posted:Mulgggggggggggggg That wood. 
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Sep 18, 2012 02:13
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CyberLord XP posted:Couple coats of matte varnish? Or just glue and reprime. I think it's probably more the fact that spray paint eats foam alive, it's the drying agents that do it. However, testors doesn't contain the same stuff and works great as a one-step primer.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:16
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Fix posted:That wood.  It's positively shameful how simple it is to do. Check dis: 1. White primer or gtfo 2. One coat of thin GW Graveyard Earth (or new equivalent,I hope there is one). Some white should still be showing through a bit on the raised edges in particular. 3. Devlan Mud or Agrax Earthshade. Aaaaand that's it. I did two coats on that club because I wanted it darker and also I think the Graveyard Earth went on a bit too thin. I picked up the paint/wash combo from a painting guide GW used to have on its website, for painting the Witchfate Tor scenery. I think it looks even better with the thin paint over white primer technique though. Of course the guide I used is gone now. Thanks for removing all your old painting stuff GW! 
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Sep 18, 2012 02:22
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Worst thing is I painted half my Witchfate Tor with that thing, left it for 3 months, came back and the guide was gone. That poo poo sucked.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:29
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Bad Munki posted:I think it's probably more the fact that spray paint eats foam alive, it's the drying agents that do it. Basically what he said. The primer melted my foam. I usually "paint" a coating of watered down elmer's glue over pink foam before I prime, but I somehow forgot today.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:31
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Slimnoid posted:So I spent the past week or so painting 40 Mantic skeletons for my VC army. These are hot as hell. Great job!
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Sep 18, 2012 02:39
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Fyrbrand posted:Mulgggggggggggggg I can't help but note that this is NOT a dire troll mauler extreme and thus it may be ill, but it ain't ballin' 
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Sep 18, 2012 02:45
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 10:51 |
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 Don't you fret, he's coming too.
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Sep 18, 2012 02:59
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