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Geoj posted:Going off of their literature on the program mileage is one parameter they score you on. The full list includes: I think it's a cool concept. I don't have Progressive anyway and if I did there's no way in hell I'd qualify for a discount (100 miles a day driving during the worst hours, yeah...) but for, say, my mom, she could probably save a few bucks because she rarely drives and when she does it's around lunchtime. I see no harm in it as long as you're not paranoid about big brother following your driving habits.
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Sep 18, 2012 14:01
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I'm very familiar with the Snapshot device and it's previous iterations (MyRate, and before that TripSense, which required you to connect the device to your computer to upload the data) and it's actually pretty cool. There used to be a surcharge model where if you drove like an rear end in a top hat you could get charged more, but that was dropped. Nowadays you can only qualify for a discount, so you really don't have anything to lose by running it.
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Sep 18, 2012 15:08
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Paul Boz_ posted:I know it's kinda played out but holy poo poo somebody's going to Bommerjinx that idea. You'd make millions. All you would need to do is sponsor Honda-Tech, Stang.net, and all of the other forums and you'd be rich. There's an accelerometer and a GPS receiver in most smartphones now, it would be pretty easy to write a smartphone app to do this for almost free (aside from battery usage and bandwidth etc.)
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Sep 18, 2012 15:34
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kastein posted:There's an accelerometer and a GPS receiver in most smartphones now, it would be pretty easy to write a smartphone app to do this for almost free (aside from battery usage and bandwidth etc.)
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Sep 18, 2012 15:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Then it's easier to cheat, though. If it's a dongle connected to the OBD2 port that's powered only when the car is rolling you can't just shake your phone repeatedly to get a high skidpad score. How does the dongle do it? It's gotta have a built-in accelerometer too, so you could shake that just as easily.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:01
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If I was going to write an app like that (note: I haven't ever written mobile apps and don't really intend to) I'd make it upload a full log of the accelerometer readings in all 3 dimensions along with a full GPS track so the central site could verify that that particular acceleration track lined up reasonably well with that GPS track. It could still be faked, but would take a lot more effort.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:31
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CornHolio posted:How does the dongle do it? It's gotta have a built-in accelerometer too, so you could shake that just as easily. Kind of hard to shake a Dongle when it's attached to the ODB2 port.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:36
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Dradien posted:Kind of hard to shake a Dongle when it's attached to the ODB2 port. Use a cable.
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Sep 18, 2012 16:37
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EightBit posted:Use a cable. ..and if your car doesn't support Mode 9 (VIN check), you could just plug it into a different car most of the time. Better hope that you don't have an accident without the dongle. 
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Sep 18, 2012 17:36
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Tried to get the BAMF (Chevy C2500, 5.7L V8) to pass state I/M. It passed safety OK, but failed the hydrocarbon test at idle. (MAX 800, actual 902). At 2500 RPM, actual was 103. Idle was also reading 1051 RPM when it usually idles at 500-600 RPM. I'm going to do the basic tuneup today (filters, plugs, wires, cap/rotor) and then go have it retested.
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Sep 18, 2012 17:45
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I washed it, my paint is not in very good shape.
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Sep 18, 2012 22:30
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The Snapshot system must deriving acceleration from reported engine speed and wheel speed, right?
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Sep 18, 2012 22:53
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kimbo305 posted:The Snapshot system must deriving acceleration from reported engine speed and wheel speed, right? It probably has a built-in accelerometer. They're cheap to include in small electronics now.
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Sep 18, 2012 23:27
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kimbo305 posted:The Snapshot system must deriving acceleration from reported engine speed and wheel speed, right? I think there is an accelerometer inside the unit itself. I took the Miata out for a nice long top-down drive to enjoy the weather today. (Upper 70s) Makes me not want to sell it now. 
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Sep 18, 2012 23:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Then it's easier to cheat, though. If it's a dongle connected to the OBD2 port that's powered only when the car is rolling you can't just shake your phone repeatedly to get a high skidpad score.  The OBD2 port has power at all times, not just when the car is running.
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Sep 18, 2012 23:57
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Haven't done anything to it yet, but a box of fun arrived today... 2 x Oil filters, one for my oil change next week, one for the service in 7500km (I bought K&N because racecar) 1 x Gates serpentine belt, accept no substitutes. 1 x Tensioner pulley for the above belt. 1 x Idler pulley for the above belt. 
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Sep 19, 2012 03:26
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EightBit posted:It probably has a built-in accelerometer. They're cheap to include in small electronics now. I know they're cheap, but deriving the acceleration from speed data would keep it more honest.
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Sep 19, 2012 03:34
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kimbo305 posted:I know they're cheap, but deriving the acceleration from speed data would keep it more honest. Most people aren't going to look to spoof their acceleration measurements, and reading acceleration data from the speed readings can't possibly include hard steering maneuvers. Tire wear and just plain size mismatch make readings from the transmission output unreliable for deriving acceleration; I'm not on their programming team, but I don't think for one second that they settled on deriving acceleration from the speed sensor.
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Sep 19, 2012 06:50
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Is steering or lateral force measured by Snapshot?
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Sep 19, 2012 06:55
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I'm going to move the snapshot discussion over to the insurance Q&A thread to stop derailing this one, but I had a development tonight that is making me  at Progressive.
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Sep 19, 2012 07:12
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Geoj, read the fine print. If they do consider you for a discount you'll need to run it for an additional 3 months before qualifying, but after that you send it back and that's that. Discount is permanent and you don't get to keep the dongle.some texas redneck posted:
As far as I know, that's not part of the OBDII spec. I haven't hooked up to one yet that is powered when the car is off (which is actually loving irritating because I have to go through 45 seconds of handshakes and reconnecting on the PC every time the car is turned off) but I guess it's only been Volvos, Fords, and a Toyota. Is it a Nissan thing?
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Sep 19, 2012 15:23
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Splizwarf posted:Geoj, read the fine print. If they do consider you for a discount you'll need to run it for an additional 3 months before qualifying, but after that you send it back and that's that. Discount is permanent and you don't get to keep the dongle. You get an initial discount at 30 days, I'm going to use that as a benchmark if it's worth sticking out another 5 months (the fine print I've read said they continue monitoring for up to 6) for the permanent discount. Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 19:43
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SpellEdge posted:I washed it, my paint is not in very good shape. Nice looking wheels. Seeing everyone with pretty brake calipers and non-rusted rotors make me realize I need to repaint mine. Only problem I see is keeping the 'Corvette' white on there. I guess I could just sand off the paint and then clear over it. No clue if that would work though.
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Sep 19, 2012 23:55
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Finished up the wheel bearing job on the front end (had to wait for new bearing caps to come all the way from GERMANY). It's still making a thumping noise in the front right though. I know my caliper guides are boned, perhaps they're banging on part of the wheel. I'm going to swap to my higher offset/larger diameter wheels and see if that makes the noise go away. I need to do the guide pins ANYWAY, but the car was on stands since Friday and I'm not ready to take it down again.
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Sep 20, 2012 00:01
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My car started trying to impersonate a British car again. Not the flames part, but the "I prefer my fluids on the outside" part. Since I've owned it I've replaced the front main seal, rear main seal, valve cover gasket + spark plug grommets, and PCV breather hose. Oil pan has miraculously remained leak free. I knew the o-ring on the distributor was bad, there's been a little oil around it for awhile, but never much.  ... oh. While I had the distributor off, I took some electronics cleaner to the cam position sensor; it's an optical sensor, and I've had some issues with sputtering/hesitating for a couple of months. The old o-ring fell apart when I tried to remove it 1 overpriced o-ring later, and a bit of cleaning, no more hesitating. And hopefully it'll stop trying to make Rover proud. I marked where it was before taking it off, but I wound up re-timing it by ear instead. I'll borrow a friend's timing light tomorrow and see how far off I am. Rotor is looking a little rough, I'll probably do that and the cap soon. Probably wires too, one of them pops off now of the plug occasionally. There was also a little oil around the bearing inside the distributor; well known issue with Nissan distributors unfortunately, the only fix is to replace the whole thing. But there's no reason to until it starts fouling the cam sensor. I'm talking maybe a couple of drops inside; I'm guessing this isn't the original distributor, usually they start filling up with oil around 100k. Viggen, my CEL went away on its own yesterday.  I think the car heard you talking poo poo Splizwarf posted:As far as I know, that's not part of the OBDII spec. I haven't hooked up to one yet that is powered when the car is off (which is actually loving irritating because I have to go through 45 seconds of handshakes and reconnecting on the PC every time the car is turned off) but I guess it's only been Volvos, Fords, and a Toyota. Is it a Nissan thing? I was under the impression that the OBD2 spec called for power at all times on pin #16; the data line definitely does go dead when you shut off the engine though, which is why you have to go through the handshake all over again. I know my PLX Kiwi has a power switch on it for that very reason, and I found a thread on mp3car that mentions switching the wire from constant to a switched feed. I know it definitely stayed on with the engine off on my Nissan, mom's Toyota, and a friend's Kia, though the data line went dead (thus it would have to reconnect when the key was turned back on). Some USB OBD2 adapters pull power from the PC instead of through the OBD2 port though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 00:08
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Splizwarf posted:As far as I know, that's not part of the OBDII spec. I haven't hooked up to one yet that is powered when the car is off (which is actually loving irritating because I have to go through 45 seconds of handshakes and reconnecting on the PC every time the car is turned off) but I guess it's only been Volvos, Fords, and a Toyota. Is it a Nissan thing? My folks' Kia, and my SAABs all power ODBII when the car is turned off, with no key or accessory power.
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Sep 20, 2012 00:08
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some texas redneck posted:I was under the impression that the OBD2 spec called for power at all times on pin #16; the data line definitely does go dead when you shut off the engine though, which is why you have to go through the handshake all over again. That explains it.
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Sep 20, 2012 01:23
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Nait Sirhc posted:Tried to get the BAMF (Chevy C2500, 5.7L V8) to pass state I/M. It passed safety OK, but failed the hydrocarbon test at idle. (MAX 800, actual 902). At 2500 RPM, actual was 103. Idle was also reading 1051 RPM when it usually idles at 500-600 RPM. Years ago, my minivan (shut up, I helped people move, chicks dig that) was emptying the fuel tank way too quickly, and the mechanics I took it to couldn't figure it out and told me somebody was stealing my gas. Then I took it to the air-care inspection (Vancouver) months before I needed to renew my insurance, and it failed on too much hydrocarbons going out the exhaust. Turned out to be the timing chain getting misaligned somehow. This was like 10 years ago, in a 1990 Dodge Grand Caravan SE (anemic 3.3L V6, goddawful A604 transmission). \/\/\/ Thanks for the update! Glad to hear it's running well. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 02:43
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ExecuDork posted:Please keep us updated, I'm curious how your truck is throwing away hydrocarbons and idling funny. Found out that cylinder #7 had a shredded plugwire boot. Did the wires and plugs, cap & rotor, Seafoamed it, changed the fluids, and threw some ENGINE RESTORE in the oil. Passed HC with no problems. (MAX 800 Actual 518) Both valve covers seem to be leaking oil, so I ordered an "engine dress up kit" that comes with two chrome valve covers, gaskets, chrome breather, chrome caps/tops for just about everything, etc. Whatever, the valve covers and gaskets alone are worth the $50 I spent on the whole kit. Also, I put $125 in gas into the truck. Yeesh. Oh well, it should be a lot of fun to take camping tomorrow!
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Sep 20, 2012 22:01
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Moved to California so first line of business to get my car legal for registration was to remove the front window tint. Called around, kept getting told $100 for tint removal, so I did it myself. Before:  After:  I feel so naked without the tint though.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:13
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kimcicle posted:I feel so naked without the tint though. That didn't really look that dark, you're allowed up to 30% for the front windows as of 1999, it may have changed since then, ya know.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:26
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Viggen posted:That didn't really look that dark, you're allowed up to 30% for the front windows as of 1999, it may have changed since then, ya know. I took it to the DMV to get it registered and they told me any front window tint is now illegal in California. http://www.chp.ca.gov/html/answers.html posted:Can I put after-market tinting on the windows of my vehicle?
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Sep 22, 2012 01:36
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kimcicle posted:I took it to the DMV to get it registered and they told me any front window tint is now illegal in California. Jesus, CARB is ten times worse than when I had to deal with them. I had Federal (only) emissions. Instant 'gross polluter' flag. $2,000 later on a $2,000 car it lasted about 2,000 miles after they worked it over.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:38
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Put the valve cover back on, plugs, wires, timed it, restabbed the distributor and timed it again so I could at least have some semblance of adjustment, then drove around the block. My lifters pumped right back up after a few moments at increased RPM, and it's running on all 8 again. Looks like I'm short on oil but I'll let it drain down on a flat surface for a while, rather than the slope of my driveway. I put a couple of ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in my nasty tank, and hope to run it out this week. lets see, it was full at 76440, and I'm at 76520, so I must have... 7 gallons left. Assuming I hit 10mpg. Although I bet I pulled only 8, so... 5? It's a good thing my other tank has gas in it and a working gauge. It won't be pleasant running out of gas despite that. Although the squeaking noise didn't go away (it wasn't what I was after but thought it might be related). So what's next, the water pump or the alternator? I want a bigger alternator so perhaps it's time for a preemptive strike. With the belts off I can at least spin the fan and see if that's the deal.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:44
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Hit up the junkyard, finally. There's 2 main culprits of my intermittent P1491, from what I've been able to dig up on forums and the FSM. Main culprit is the item named by P1491 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. Second culprit is the evap sensor. My evap sensor has obvious damage on it from the previous owner overfilling the tank, so I snagged both. Found a 99 Altima SE out there with the sexy red and clear (factory) taillights that I've been wanting (instead of my red/amber), but I couldn't get the drat trunk open   Black88GTA posted:According to hondapartsnow, it looks like they used this part in the 86-89 Accord and the 88-91 Prelude. I know this is a few weeks ago, but if you're still looking for one, I snagged one from an 89 Accord today. Wasn't brittle at all, though the car it came from only had 109k and a nearly mint interior. I'm going to another junkyard tomorrow (couldn't find something at the first one), their online inventory shows 5 Preludes - 4 of them are 3rd gen. 89, 90, and 2 91's, all on the yard less than a month. Email me at awfulbean at that gmail thing if you want me to keep an eye out for anything or if you want me to drop this emblem in the mail. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Sep 22, 2012 |
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Sep 22, 2012 01:48
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kimcicle posted:I took it to the DMV to get it registered and they told me any front window tint is now illegal in California. I have 50% on my fronts and have never had a problem with the police. Furthermore, I'm pretty sure that I could get away with 35% since a million people around here (San Diego) have their fronts tinted pretty dark and I never see or hear about people getting pulled over strictly for window tints. I also don't have my front plate on because it looks terrible and haven't been pulled over, even while going through DUI checkpoints.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:50
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35% is darker than 50%
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Sep 22, 2012 01:51
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Basically what I'm saying is Break All Laws gently caress The Police.
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Sep 22, 2012 01:52
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Chinatown posted:I have 50% on my fronts and have never had a problem with the police. Furthermore, I'm pretty sure that I could get away with 35% since a million people around here (San Diego) have their fronts tinted pretty dark and I never see or hear about people getting pulled over strictly for window tints. Yeah, I'm thinking once I get registered I can get some tint back on it, but the first hurdle is the bored DMV employee that won't let me register my car for any nitpicked reason.
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Sep 22, 2012 02:14
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some texas redneck posted:Hit up the junkyard, finally. Swapped these on today. Immediate CEL for the evap pressure sensor. Tried swapping it with the MAP sensor and resetting the CEL - got a MAP sensor code instead. Back to the original sensors, and hopefully the new valve will keep the intermittent CEL from coming back.  I sprayed a little bit of oil in it in case it was sticking.e: installed the valve backwards. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 01:27
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