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Volume posted:Any one ever try out this CarMD? http://www.carmd.com/ Its an OBD-II scanner. Overpriced as gently caress, but since he already owns it, go for it. Don't be skeptical, it gives you the actual code, then just google it to figure out what it means on your make/model/year/trim vehicle...
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Sep 20, 2012 02:02
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We're still hitting low 90s here, non-working a/c is not an option.  I do need to figure out how to properly diagnose a bad cap, aside from "welp it's buzzing and won't start". Thankfully our a/c unit is only about 5 years old, massive 5 ton monster. Our summer electric bill is incredibly painful, though we knocked about 30% off of it by adding a ton of blown in insulation.. it's no longer competing with the mortgageGet a bunch of ink and questionable sexytime piercings and you can compete with 14". 
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Sep 20, 2012 02:03
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some texas redneck posted:We're still hitting low 90s here, non-working a/c is not an option. Well usually they bulge pretty bad, or they trip the breaker... Diagnosing them involves a DMM with a capacitance measuring tool (most go up to about 90µF, which covers most residential sized caps.) Even the HVAC techs usually go the "substitute known good part" route because its usually piss easy and if it doesn't work its NBD...
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Sep 20, 2012 02:06
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Volume posted:Any one ever try out this CarMD? http://www.carmd.com/ So they are selling a lovely overpriced basic OBDII reader, an overpriced extension cable, and a super stripped down and overpriced consumer Mitchells or AllData subscription. Yeah...that's a poo poo deal worthy of late night infomercials. The fact that there is a choice for multiple payment for a sub $150 item is pretty much the first dead giveaway.
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Sep 20, 2012 02:10
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some texas redneck posted:I do need to figure out how to properly diagnose a bad cap, aside from "welp it's buzzing and won't start". Remove the cap, short the leads to discharge it and put your multimeter on both leads set on resistance. It should start at 0 and eventually go to infinite as the little battery in your meter charges it. If it doesn't or if either lead is shorted to the casing it's bad.
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Sep 20, 2012 02:13
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Motronic posted:Remove the cap, short the leads to discharge it and put your multimeter on both leads set on resistance. It should start at 0 and eventually go to infinite as the little battery in your meter charges it. If it doesn't or if either lead is shorted to the casing it's bad. You can also hook a 12V bulb up to the cap in series, and then in series again with a 12V battery. Initial conenction bulb should be bright, and it should then dim to drat nearly imperceptible brightness as the cap reaches equilibrium... Start/Run caps are nonpolarized, but if you're testing a polarized cap (like a big power filtering cap) keep the polarity correct... This doesn't work on anything smaller than a normal nutsack though, they charge too rapidly and you'll just get a small glow and then nothing...
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Sep 20, 2012 02:21
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You can do a dead short to discharge? I always thought you had to use a resistor of some sort? I've used a 120V 7 watt bulb to discharge a few flashes; lights up the room pretty drat bright for a bit - but flashes also run at a slightly higher voltage.. Though the only caps I've messed with have been for camera flashes. I've learned the hard way just how much of a punch those tiny things can pack, even when the flash is "dead" (hadn't worked in a few weeks). Sponge! posted:Well usually they bulge pretty bad, or they trip the breaker... Diagnosing them involves a DMM with a capacitance measuring tool (most go up to about 90F, which covers most residential sized caps.) Even the HVAC techs usually go the "substitute known good part" route because its usually piss easy and if it doesn't work its NBD... I know bulging = bad cap, haven't had one trip a breaker yet. The furthest I've dug into an outside unit so far has been to replace a bad contactor; my experiences with caps in camera flashes has left me a bit leary of going near them again  Still, they're cheap enough that it probably wouldn't hurt to keep a spare around.
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Sep 20, 2012 02:29
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some texas redneck posted:You can do a dead short to discharge? I always thought you had to use a resistor of some sort? I've used a 120V 7 watt bulb to discharge a few flashes; lights up the room pretty drat bright for a bit - but flashes also run at a slightly higher voltage.. A normal start/run cap doesn't have enough juice in it to really justify a resistive load. Flash caps and filter caps and HV filter caps, sure. I wouldn't do it a hundred times in a row to a good cap or anything, but as a safety measure it works fine and won't do any appreciable damage to the cap itself...
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Sep 20, 2012 02:36
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Sponge! posted:A normal start/run cap doesn't have enough juice in it to really justify a resistive load. Yep...exactly what I was going to say. I've still got my old CRT monitor/tv discharging tool which is resistive but there's no need on your typical residential (and probably even commercial) AC or air compressor startup cap.
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Sep 20, 2012 03:01
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Cross-posting from the Craiglist thread so I don't ask a bunch of questions in there.... Might go look at a '97 4runner but noticed this rust on both sides of the wheel well. This is the driver rear, so it looks like some is on the edge of the rear passenger door.  Assuming that's the only rust, how big of a deal is it? I've never really dealt with rust outside of sanding down some surface rust in a trunk before. If it isn't that bad, how would I go about treating it, or would I need to take it to someone?
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Sep 20, 2012 23:03
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I would be more concerned about the strawberry milkshake on that runner than any rust issues. Speaking of which, does anybody know if the 2.7l version suffered from the milkshake, or was it only the 3.4l?
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Sep 20, 2012 23:29
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DrPain posted:I would be more concerned about the strawberry milkshake on that runner than any rust issues. Regarding that... I haven't looked at any 3rd gen 4runners yet. Should I just be checking all the fluids for presence of this? And if the fluids look good to go, should I be ok and just get an aftermarket transcooler installed?
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Sep 20, 2012 23:35
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Hashal posted:Regarding that... I haven't looked at any 3rd gen 4runners yet. Should I just be checking all the fluids for presence of this? And if the fluids look good to go, should I be ok and just get an aftermarket transcooler installed? It's only on automatics, and mostly on the 3.4l engine as I understand it. There was a design flaw in the radiator that can lead to coolant and trans fluid mixing together. If the trans fluid and coolant look clean, then you should be okay. Trans cooler is probably your #1 first priority if you buy a 3rd gen automatic. This write up has more information than you could ever need on these trucks. DrPain fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Sep 20, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 23:40
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DrPain posted:It's only on automatics, and mostly on the 3.4l engine as I understand it. There was a design flaw in the radiator that can lead to coolant and trans fluid mixing together. If the trans fluid looks clean, then you should be okay. Trans cooler is probably your #1 first priority if you buy a 3rd gen automatic. Yeah, it is the 3.4l auto. But if I do purchase, I'll definitely be doing that first along with flushing the coolant and trans fluid.
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Sep 20, 2012 23:50
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I am having issues with my wife's 2004 Kia Sorento; for some reason the power locks are not working. I first noticed it when I used the keyless remote to open the door to no effect, and I also noticed the absence of the lights and sounds it makes it I key the remote. Also the keyless remote will not open the back window on the tail gate. I opened the door with my key and used the switch to unlock the rest of the car and noticed that the switch was inop. So the switch and the keyless remote do not open or unlock the vehicle. I thought it might be a fuse, but all associated fuses showed continuity with my multimeter. I took off the drivers side door panel as that is where the only power lock switch is located in the vehicle and tested some wires for continuity without any problems. I think I found the power locking mechanism in the door, and when I had all the wires connected I couldn't feel or hear any movement in the mechanism when using either the keyless remote or power lock on the door. I did however notice sound coming from what I suspect is the solenoid in the passenger door frame. I keyed the unlock button on the remote, but it still failed to unlock the door. The sound was limited to just that area, and no sound is audible from any other input to the remote. I think the problem is the door actuator on the drivers side, but that doesn't explain everything else. Could anyone give any suggestions as to what the problem could be, or what my next course of action should be? SirDrinksAlot fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 20, 2012 23:57
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SirDrinksAlot posted:I am having issues with my wife's 2004 Kia Sorento; for some reason the power locks are not working. I first noticed it when I used the keyless remote to open the door to no effect, and I also noticed the absence of the lights and sounds it makes it I key the remote. Also the keyless remote will not open the back window on the tail gate. You checked the battery in the remote(s), right? Has the vehicle battery been disconnected recently? It may need to relearn the codes from the remotes...
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Sep 20, 2012 23:59
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Sponge! posted:You checked the battery in the remote(s), right? The vehicle battery has not been disconnected as far as I know. As for the keyless remote, if the battery were to be dead in the remote, would that still effect the power locks on the doors?
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Sep 21, 2012 00:02
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SirDrinksAlot posted:The vehicle battery has not been disconnected as far as I know. As for the keyless remote, if the battery were to be dead in the remote, would that still effect the power locks on the doors?  I somehow totally missed that even using the onboard buttons your power locks are not working... Welp.I'd check grounds and harnesses from the body control module that handles the power locks etc. If you're comfortable with tinkering, hit each door solenoid with 12V and see if it locks/unlocks that way. If it does, work your way up the harness. If it doesn't, check the grounding, and call a priest?
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Sep 21, 2012 00:06
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Sponge! posted:
Ok I bought a manual for this vehicle but it isn't really what I was looking for. Is there some kind of manual I can buy that breaks the car down into schematics/diagrams/wire diagrams with all the components listed?
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Sep 21, 2012 00:21
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SirDrinksAlot posted:Ok I bought a manual for this vehicle but it isn't really what I was looking for. Is there some kind of manual I can buy that breaks the car down into schematics/diagrams/wire diagrams with all the components listed? You want the ETM. Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Big enough on its own to be a volume in and of itself, especially with anything 98 or newer. :worms:
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Sep 21, 2012 00:32
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I was stupid and lost the metal clip that puts pressure on the headlight bulb in an 06 Hyundai Tucson. Is there any way to just purchase that clip? I replaced the bulbs and rather than spend $100+ on a complete new assembly I'll probably just glue it in place since the odds of it burning out before we sell it in a few years are pretty remote. If it does I can always spend the money then and replace the whole assembly.
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Sep 21, 2012 02:04
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Anybody know anything about Hydroboost brakes? The 2003 Escalade (6.0L, AWD, 175k miles, automatic) I picked up over the summer has a bit of an issue. During normal driving the brakes work fine, but if I hit the pedal hard (like a panic stop) it immediately feels really hard at first, then goes down. Ordinarily I'd attribute this to a booster failing or low vacuum / vac leak, but the brakes in this truck run off of the power steering. No PS leaks that I can tell. Also maybe of note, is if you stand on the brakes hard with the engine running and the car in park, it makes this loud awful squealing noise. My thoughts are that the PS pump is starting to get weak, although it doesn't make any whining noises or anything and steering feels fine. Is there a possibility it's the Hydroboost unit itself? How can you tell which one is bad? Don't want to just throw parts at it. e: I posted here about brake issues in the truck a while ago, but hadn't driven the truck enough at that point to notice the "hard pedal when panic stopping" thing yet. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 21, 2012 05:18
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Hi, 2000 Volvo C70 Convertible with the Low-Pressure Turbocharged Engine I've been getting a clunking noise on tight turns, and potholes. The right front strut, when I press down on the car sticks out of the hole farther than the drivers side, by a lot. It's just spongy feeling when pressed down on, versus the firmness of the drivers side. I'm thinking the front strut mount on the passenger side has failed. What do you guys think? How easy is that repair? I've done brakes before.
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Sep 21, 2012 15:01
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Utopian Mind posted:Hi, Could you take a picture of the hole you are talking about. Not sure if shocks are supposed to stick out of anything.
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Sep 21, 2012 17:54
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Any advice for removing a over-tightened oil drain plug? I was changing to change my wife's car's oil, and the drain plug is impossible to get off. The Toyota dealership did her oil previously, and it seems like the cockheads there over-tightened it. I've had issues with dealerships over-tightening things like lug nuts and drain plugs (heck, this forum helped me with removing some over-tightened lug nuts). Help? 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 03:27
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melon cat posted:Any advice for removing a over-tightened oil drain plug? I was changing to change my wife's car's oil, and the drain plug is impossible to get off. The Toyota dealership did her oil previously, and it seems like the cockheads there over-tightened it. I've had issues with dealership over-tightening things like lug nuts and drain plugs (heck, this forum helped me with removing some over-tightened lug nuts). I ran into this same issue last night. Just jack the car up properly with jack stands and use a breaker bar.
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Sep 23, 2012 03:41
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Will 6.5 inch speakers fit in the front door of my 01 Forester? Alpine SPR-60s.
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Sep 23, 2012 10:23
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Nierbo posted:Will 6.5 inch speakers fit in the front door of my 01 Forester? Alpine SPR-60s.
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Sep 23, 2012 12:08
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Rhyno posted:I ran into this same issue last night. Just jack the car up properly with jack stands and use a breaker bar. And when that fails go out and pick up another drain plug and a 10" pipe wrench. That's how I end up getting most drain plugs out that come to me overtightened. Sometimes with a piece of pipe over the handle of the wrench if I have space.
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Sep 23, 2012 16:33
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Rhyno posted:I ran into this same issue last night. Just jack the car up properly with jack stands and use a breaker bar. BUT, another issue has cropped up. While the oil drug plug has been taken care of, the oil filter has been over-tightened, as well (thanks, Toyota dealership!). I have a ratchet and strap-style wrench, but neither fit- the Toyota-brand filter's too skinny (I'm replacing it with a FRAM). It's almost as if the dealership does this so you have no choice but to go to them for an overpriced oil change.  Any suggestions for removing a over-torqued oil filter? For the record- gently caress dealership service centres. Ugh. melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 18:53
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If you can fit channel locks up there, grab and crush a little. Or stab it through the side with a screwdriver...this one's a little messier. Edit: Also, never use Fram. I missed that at first. Godholio fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 19:03
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melon cat posted:This worked- thanks. 1) Don't use Fram, ever. Use Wix. 2) Look up your oil fiter size here http://www.mypdtv.com/FILTER.pdf and go to your local parts store and pick up an exact size filter wrench.
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Sep 23, 2012 19:04
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drat. I had no idea that FRAM was such poo poo quality- it's all you can find around here. I'll try what you both suggested! Thanks for the help. Edited to ask: What brand air filters would you guys suggest? Only asking because, yeah you guessed it, I've got FRAM air filters in there, right now. melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 19:29
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This is potentially a really stupid question, but here goes: I've got a 2000 Ford Taurus. Got in a traffic collision a few months back where I rear-ended the guy in front of me because he stopped short. The only real damage this caused to my car was that it bent the hood up, to the point where it's pretty hard to lift to see under the hood. You have to really force it. It did expose some of the underside of the hood, though. Here's what it looks like:   Anyway, my car's gotten dirty since the collision. I've tried to clean it a few times with household products but those weren't really getting the job done. There's a $5 drive-in car wash place near my house, and the last time I took my car through it, it made it really sparkle, like when I first got it home from the dealership. So I want to run my car through that again, but I don't want to ruin my engine and other inner workings of the car since they're exposed. However, this car went through tons of rain in Hurricane Isaac recently, and before that, I even had to drive it through a flood or 2 to get home (street flooded after it rained really hard for a long period of time). And after all that, it still works the same as it ever has. With that being said, my question is this: Will my car survive a drive-in car wash? Or is this a horrible idea that will destroy my car and render it unusable?
Rageaholic fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Sep 23, 2012 |
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Sep 23, 2012 21:10
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melon cat posted:drat. I had no idea that FRAM was such poo poo quality- it's all you can find around here. I'll try what you both suggested! Thanks for the help. I don't think anyone has ever complained about Fram's quality for air filters - they don't have to deal with high pressure, and a paper air filter is pretty much a paper air filter. The fear with Fram's oil filters is that the cardboard endcaps could disintegrate and that the filter media is smaller. With that said, I'm personally starting to come the other way around on Fram. I won't go out of my way to choose one...but realistically, given how many millions of cars are out there with Fram-branded or Fram-made filters, clearly their design choices haven't been catastrophically bad. Strangely enough, though, Fram is one of the most expensive options for the cartridge filter on my MS3. I can get OEM or Wix filters for about half the price as long as I'm willing to buy more than one or two at a time.
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Sep 23, 2012 23:13
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:With that being said, my question is this: Will my car survive a drive-in car wash? Or is this a horrible idea that will destroy my car and render it unusable? It'll be perfectly fine. Your engine bay gets wet anyway anytime you drive in the rain. The only potential danger would be getting water in the electrical connectors and shorting something out, but that pretty much takes a direct blast from a pressure-washer -- incidental spray from a car wash is no trouble at all.
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Sep 24, 2012 00:06
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Fucknag posted:It'll be perfectly fine. Your engine bay gets wet anyway anytime you drive in the rain. The only potential danger would be getting water in the electrical connectors and shorting something out, but that pretty much takes a direct blast from a pressure-washer -- incidental spray from a car wash is no trouble at all. Awesome  That's reassuring. Thanks!
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Sep 24, 2012 00:39
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Update from many pages ago: MINE
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Sep 24, 2012 02:19
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Black88GTA posted:Anybody know anything about Hydroboost brakes? The 2003 Escalade (6.0L, AWD, 175k miles, automatic) I picked up over the summer has a bit of an issue. During normal driving the brakes work fine, but if I hit the pedal hard (like a panic stop) it immediately feels really hard at first, then goes down. Ordinarily I'd attribute this to a booster failing or low vacuum / vac leak, but the brakes in this truck run off of the power steering. No PS leaks that I can tell. Also maybe of note, is if you stand on the brakes hard with the engine running and the car in park, it makes this loud awful squealing noise. Sounds like a booster failure. Double check your pump though... also change your fluid to. poo poo fluid will cause funky things. Unrelated content: Who has experience bring color back into leather seats? I can see the hide in a few places, and I want bring the color back with out reupholstering. Worst case scenario, I found a set of black seats at the junk yard. The current interior is a light gray, but the contrast of black leather buckets will look good.
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Sep 24, 2012 02:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:With that said, I'm personally starting to come the other way around on Fram. I won't go out of my way to choose one...but realistically, given how many millions of cars are out there with Fram-branded or Fram-made filters, clearly their design choices haven't been catastrophically bad. I agree that the worry about Fram oil filters is a bit overwrought. On the other hand, for most people a Fram filter costs like $3 or $4, and a premium brand filter costs like $5 to $6. For me, two dollars more is a no brainer. In fact I'll happily pay $12 for a Mobil One. Why not? The difference is the price of a sandwich. Rageaholic Monkey posted:With that being said, my question is this: Will my car survive a drive-in car wash? Or is this a horrible idea that will destroy my car and render it unusable? I agree with Fucknag that your car will be fine to go through the wash. However, I'm a little worried that the accident may have damaged the latch on your hood. Also, with it up like that, air can catch it better, especially when you're on the freeway. If the hood suddenly flies open, it will block your view, could smash the windshield, and could cause an accident. Please make sure your hood is safe.
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Sep 24, 2012 05:36
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