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Oh, you didn't know? Being out of production (and pro-painted!!) makes a model's value go up at least tenfold  E: can you just leave plastic models in simple green? It won't start eating away at them if you leave them in for too long (or forget about them altogether?) Icon Of Sin fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Sep 30, 2012 |
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Sep 30, 2012 00:20
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DICKS CURE DYKES posted:Oh, you didn't know? Being out of production (and pro-painted!!) makes a model's value go up at least tenfold I have had various plastic models sitting in simple green for over a year to no ill effect.
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Sep 30, 2012 00:53
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DICKS CURE DYKES posted:Oh, you didn't know? Being out of production (and pro-painted!!) makes a model's value go up at least tenfold I don't care so much about the paint job - I mean, pro-painted is nice, but I'd rather do my own paint job even if it is lovely because otherwise it's not 'mine' - but some of those out of production models are really loving cool. Too bad most of them seem to be going for nearly $40 each. Going by this logic, I picked up a loving steal, but I still just paid more per model for used ones than I did for brand new ones. I think it was worth it though. Now, to get more paints because holy poo poo 4 bases/2 layers/1 shade is not enough! I do have a question about the ink washes I got though (kind of an impulse buy). I picked up some of the Army Painter ink washes - strong, dark and light tone, they were only a few dollars each - but I'm not sure if ink washes and shade paints in general need to be thinned as well? Do they just get painted on like other paints, and they magically recede in to the cracks? Or do I paint them on in some special way? The few guides I've found on the washes seem to just take the attitude that the reader already knows how to paint with washes, and just needs to know how best to take advantage of them.
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Sep 30, 2012 00:54
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Finished up Sammael tonight before I head out I left the book mostly blank for his owner to fill in, since I can't freehand for poo poo.
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Sep 30, 2012 03:03
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Gammon posted:Man, I had no idea it was that easy. Looks like I'm buying me some acetone, and the painted miniatures. I can't believe just how expensive some individual models are on eBay, even if they are out of production. It's pretty much the only good thing about metal miniatures. Gammon posted:I do have a question about the ink washes I got though (kind of an impulse buy). I picked up some of the Army Painter ink washes - strong, dark and light tone, they were only a few dollars each - but I'm not sure if ink washes and shade paints in general need to be thinned as well? Do they just get painted on like other paints, and they magically recede in to the cracks? Or do I paint them on in some special way? The few guides I've found on the washes seem to just take the attitude that the reader already knows how to paint with washes, and just needs to know how best to take advantage of them. If it's a "traditional" ink you'll probably need to hit it with some matte varnish when you're done, because they can dry a bit glossy. Varnish is good anyway, so no biggie. As far as painting it on, you can thin it like paint if you want a more subtle effect, and you can put on multiple coats. It will then magically recede into the cracks, but sometimes there are issues with pooling (new GW washes are better about that). You can either just paint it where you want it or paint it on and then blot off where you don't want it. CrotchPheasant fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Sep 30, 2012 |
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Sep 30, 2012 04:24
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CrotchPheasant posted:If they're metal, throw them in something with some acetone (nail polish) and the paint will be falling off in minutes. Sole.Sushi posted:Some do, yes; the new guy running my local GW store runs the whole, high-pressure "everything we make is the best for miniatures and specifically formulated for them" shtick that really makes me hate life. 
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Sep 30, 2012 08:24
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"I'm actually a regular. Where's the other manager..?"
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Pierzak posted:These guys are awesome, one visit in my new GW store and I no longer feel the need to buy anything GW! I mean, I play Infinity, to there's SF, I've got the Reaper box incoming in several months so that should cover fantasy, I've mostly switched to Vallejo/Reaper paints, I hate the GW brushes/dice/whatever anyway. I think I'm a happier man for that Posts like this warm my cold, black, bitter, shriveled heart.
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Sep 30, 2012 09:05
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Right, small and simple steps. I think I have mostly finished with the actual model now. I am not sure what to do about his eyes though, thoughts?
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Sep 30, 2012 09:27
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Speaking as a complete painting moron I'd say leave it as is 
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Sep 30, 2012 09:31
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Man I wish DC jump chaplains were worth the points on the tabletop because that model is baller as gently caress. As for the eyes, they look fine right now, the rest of the mini has enough detail and contrast that it doesn't look unfinished or bad or anything. If you wanted you could do some lenses with that whole gem painting trick, or maybe make the eyes glow and do some subtle OSL?
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Sep 30, 2012 09:35
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Honey Badger posted:Man I wish DC jump chaplains were worth the points on the tabletop because that model is baller as gently caress. Yeah I dont play so I was disappointed when i heard that they were no good. Probably one of the best minis that GW have produced. I tried the gem effect but I cant get it so that the lense flare does not look like a pupil. I might try OSL but it has always ended up looking terrible when I have tried before.
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Sep 30, 2012 11:15
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No rush on my air brush question. I was using it today, and having the same problems, until I gave up. When I was cleaning it out accidentally broke that piece that holds the needle in place at the tip. I think I tightened it back on too strong. The screw threading just ripped away leaving half of it in my airbrush with no way to get it out. I'm not sure what metal that bit is made out of, but man, I was not even going overboard.  There goes $214...
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Sep 30, 2012 12:03
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:No rush on my air brush question. 1) Depending on your airbrush, you may already have a replacement nozzle in the box it came in. They break sometimes, and most manufacturers are aware of that. Failing already having one, you can get one from them directly. 2) Push a wooden skewer/chopstick/whatever into the hole (one a bit bigger than the hole that the threads left you). Wedge it in tight with the hole, and start twisting as if you were unscrewing the nozzle. 3) Most nozzles are made of brass.
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Sep 30, 2012 13:15
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I've assembled my Monolith but there are some gnarly mismatches where some of the walls meet. Do I treat them like the world's biggest mould lines and scrape them down, or just ignore them and hope the black on black will hide them when it's painted?
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Sep 30, 2012 16:11
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Finished 5 of the assault marines so far, the rest have to be stripped before I start on them. I gave the squad leader a plasma pistol (and 2 melta bombs), but he's pointing it straight at the camera so you can't quite see it. I still need to touch up a few of them (especially the 4th one from the left, it's funny how a camera flash helps you find those spots ) but they pass the 3 ft test pretty easy. I have like 6 different colors on each one  Leadbelcher Abbadon Black Warplock Bronze Castellan Green Mephiston Red Gehenna's Gold and washed over with Nuln Oil. Thanks for the tip to get a pot of that stuff, I like how it makes them look a bit dirty and weathered. Icon Of Sin fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Sep 30, 2012 |
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Sep 30, 2012 17:08
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I posted some WIP shots in the Scale modelling thread a while back of a 1:32 scale BSG Viper MKII I made, and I just got a cool display case for the finished thing. I'm tempted now to get some LED strip lights to line the inside bottom edges.      
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Sep 30, 2012 19:38
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Unf. That's delicious. That you can keep that thing under glass and not fly it around the room with your hand making pew pew noises says a lot for your strength of will.
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Sep 30, 2012 19:48
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Just finished up the prototype scheme of some Dire Avengers that have been taunting me for too long. Unfortunately, I've been working on a fire prism, and the scheme hasn't been translating well to vehicles. I'll finish it off, and hope it looks better when it's done, because I think it looks pretty rocken' on infantry.  
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Sep 30, 2012 20:37
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Yeah I dont play so I was disappointed when i heard that they were no good. Probably one of the best minis that GW have produced. He's up there with the Terminator armor Librarian and Rune Priest for gorgeous minis I want to buy and paint even though I have no use for them in my army. Maybe some day when I'm not a broke-rear end college student
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Sep 30, 2012 20:50
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This rules! Definitely get the lights in the display case.
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Sep 30, 2012 21:01
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Part 2 wip
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Sep 30, 2012 22:26
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Man, that is just loving incredible. So much better than anything I could hope to do. What colour(s) do you use for the flesh?
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Sep 30, 2012 23:37
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Between you and big_g I now have a massive urge to make display cases for my army with awesome backdrops from the FW books. My mooooooney 
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Oct 1, 2012 01:19
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These look pretty drat good, nice work. They look similar to the paintingclinic.com guy's eldar. I think he did a guide for his fire prism. Might be worth checking out.
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Oct 1, 2012 02:48
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Hixson posted:These look pretty drat good, nice work. Shamelessly cribbed from him, yeh. My purple's turning out more of a pastel instead of a bright purple, though, which is making the vehicle look kinda muted.
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Oct 1, 2012 03:08
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Crossposting from the oath thread I kinda hope they make new Guardians when the Eldar get a refresh.
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Oct 1, 2012 03:39
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That green monolith is screaming for drybrushed highlights, but everything else looks outstanding! Are they standing on a first-edition Blood Bowl astrogranite field?
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Oct 1, 2012 04:07
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moths posted:Are they standing on a first-edition Blood Bowl astrogranite field? Yeah, I thought it would make a good backdrop.
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Oct 1, 2012 04:25
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Gammon posted:Man, that is just loving incredible. So much better than anything I could hope to do. What colour(s) do you use for the flesh? The basecoat was a mix of Dark Flesh+Elf flesh, then washed with a thin glaze of carroburg crimson + druchii violet and then another of pure violet in the deepest recesses. Then the skin was highlighted by just adding Elf flesh into the mix and for the final bits, a touch of bleached bone was put in.
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Oct 1, 2012 06:15
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Honey Badger posted:He's up there with the Terminator armor Librarian and Rune Priest for gorgeous minis I want to buy and paint even though I have no use for them in my army. Lemartes really improved over his old model:  Yeah, that's a banner pole he's holding. And you should add a terminator chaplain to your list.
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Oct 1, 2012 07:50
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Had a go at one of the cultists, pretty generic simple colour scheme as I'm not entirely decided on what scheme to paint the chaos marines yet. The red will be changed to whatever colour the legion I go with uses (at the moment Word Bearers)
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Oct 1, 2012 12:03
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Ma n RichyP, you really know how to paint flesh well.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:05
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CyberLord XP posted:Ma n RichyP, you really know how to paint flesh well. On a white base its pretty easy to do, I hated doing it when I used to prime black. Basically it's: 1) Wash(flood) with devlan (Hairdryer it dry because I'm impatient) 2) Water down Tallarn Flesh so it's ridiculously thin and paint over the wash (gives free shading thanks to the wash showing through) 3) Introduce VMC Sand (similar to a mix of Bleached bone and yellow) to the thin mix above and apply in various places. On black it was always the reverse, with a thick layer of Tallarn first, ending in a wash, result is similar but it tends to turn out a bit pinker. I found an old image that did the technique on black: 
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Oct 1, 2012 12:14
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I really need to start priming white. It just seems to work a lot better for doing colours.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:27
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It really is, but it's also a lot more work. No more just leaving bits black as shadow. Really noticed the difference when I went back to a black undercoat for Nemesor Zahndrehk, I could be super lazy.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:40
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Priming white, a wash and basing with thinned colors is definitely something I want to try! It's too bad everything I'm planning to paint next month is going to be pretty dark.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:40
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I dont think I want to prime black again. The lemartes I did above was primed grey and he turned out fine.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:44
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I've never primed grey, I should really experiment with that. Maybe this month's Oath.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:47
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It just makes things so much easier working with all the light parts of the paint job even if the majority of it is black. Dark colours will get great coverage regardless of the undercoat.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:51
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krushgroove posted:Priming white, a wash and basing with thinned colors is definitely something I want to try! It's too bad everything I'm planning to paint next month is going to be pretty dark. It's great for a lot of things, but as mentioned you can't leave any gaps (hence why I always pre-wash) and metals are a total pain so you need an intermediate colour as a base. I use brown for golds and bronzes and grey for silvers.
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Oct 1, 2012 12:56
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