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kastein posted:sway bar bushings are easy, CV joints are a few hours apiece maximum depending on model, wheel bearings can be done at the same time, struts as well. Maybe $600 in parts (unless you are very unlucky)... but if you pay someone to do it, yes, it will be expensive. I'm going to use this as an excuse to get a different car. Probably a civic of around the same mileage. It's been an absolute pain getting any sort of parts for this car. I'm in Canada, so ordering from the States is brutal, and no one local carries all the parts. It's a 2000 1.6L protege, but for some reason a lot of the parts are the 94-96 protege. It's been so hit and miss with parts from the internet it's not even funny. Some fit, some wont, either way I'm out the money.
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Oct 2, 2012 04:24
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Godholio posted:Disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for a few minutes will avoid that so you can remove the airbag. some texas redneck posted:I do recommend installing smoke at some point, but not through the wires.
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Oct 2, 2012 10:47
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I missed where you said what type of car it is, but a new stalk for one of my previous cars was only like $25. Worth looking into.
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Oct 2, 2012 14:07
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Godholio posted:I missed where you said what type of car it is, but a new stalk for one of my previous cars was only like $25. Worth looking into. Daihatsu Terios from 1998, from the depths of the internet i managed to pull a technical manual which resembles the manuals you get on how-to assemble IKEA furniture. This is the multi-lever, i am doubtful the relay or fuse is burnt out, otherwise i'd have no warning lights either from what i've read. It's probably corrosion or dust that was causing it. 
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Oct 2, 2012 15:22
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This may be an entirely stupid question so feel free to tell me I'm being an idiot. I need a new radiator in my older model Camry. I don't have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars (my dad just showed me how to replace my brake pads). How bad of an idea would it be for me to try replacing it on my own? There is a step by step article I found online. Bad idea?
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Oct 2, 2012 16:53
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Bloody Cum Fart posted:This may be an entirely stupid question so feel free to tell me I'm being an idiot. I need a new radiator in my older model Camry. I don't have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars (my dad just showed me how to replace my brake pads). How bad of an idea would it be for me to try replacing it on my own? There is a step by step article I found online. Bad idea? It's probably a bad idea if you have no way to get around if not everything goes according to plan.
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Oct 2, 2012 17:04
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DamnGlitch posted:It's probably a bad idea if you have no way to get around if not everything goes according to plan.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:01
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Bloody Cum Fart posted:This may be an entirely stupid question so feel free to tell me I'm being an idiot. I need a new radiator in my older model Camry. I don't have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars (my dad just showed me how to replace my brake pads). How bad of an idea would it be for me to try replacing it on my own? There is a step by step article I found online. Bad idea? It's 5 hoses (if automatic.. 3 otherwise) and a handful of screws/bolts/nuts. The hardest part will be figuring out how to unplug the radiator fans. It's can be a drat messy job though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Oct 2, 2012 |
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Oct 2, 2012 18:03
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I could swear you're in the bachelor poo poo thread and from the greater Boston area... let me know if you need a hand, I'm too broke to buy gas atm but not very far away and probably have all the tools needed. It generally is a messy job, I usually get about 3/4 of the coolant on myself and the ground and the other 1/4 ends up in the drain pan.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:07
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Actually getting the big items out of their tiny spaces (and reinstalling them) is the only challenging thing about a radiator swap. It's a loving puzzle.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:09
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Bloody Cum Fart posted:This may be an entirely stupid question so feel free to tell me I'm being an idiot. I need a new radiator in my older model Camry. I don't have much mechanical knowledge when it comes to cars (my dad just showed me how to replace my brake pads). How bad of an idea would it be for me to try replacing it on my own? There is a step by step article I found online. Bad idea? A radiator is usually a pretty easy job (although messy). The first radiator I replaced was in my '92 Mustang. I used a $3 socket set and did it in my apartment building parking lot. It took about 1 - 1.5 hours. Fortunately it rained right after, so apartment management never found the coolant mess there and I didn't get bitched at. There are exceptions to every rule though. I would expect a Camry radiator to be cake, but I've never worked on one.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:18
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kastein posted:I could swear you're in the bachelor poo poo thread and from the greater Boston area... let me know if you need a hand, I'm too broke to buy gas atm but not very far away and probably have all the tools needed.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:46
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I don't have plat anymore since I lost the Car Game, email is kastein (at) w1kas.net though.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:14
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kastein posted:I don't have plat anymore since I lost the Car Game, email is kastein (at) w1kas.net though.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:32
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1993 Del Sol. My windshild has a lot of sand pitting and I would like to get it replaced. Are all replacement windshields about the same quality, or should take it somewhere specific or ask for something specific to make sure I get good replacement glass?
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Oct 2, 2012 21:42
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SkunkDuster posted:1993 Del Sol. My windshild has a lot of sand pitting and I would like to get it replaced. Are all replacement windshields about the same quality, or should take it somewhere specific or ask for something specific to make sure I get good replacement glass? I can't say for your model in particular, but I can tell you that there is a huge difference in quality between the windshields I've gotten for Porsches and Land Rovers. Not so much on Fords and Chevys. I don't know if that's an import/domestic thing, and expensive car thing, or a small production run thing. But I'd be careful. I had one guy come out to drop a windshield in a Porsche I was working on and the first one he brought was literally 1/2" too narrow. And he would have just caulked it up and put the trim back over like it was just fine if I had let him. This was a piece of Safelite glass. He came back out the next day with something that had german writing all over the stickers (but not Porsche) and it magically fit properly.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:47
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Motronic posted:I can't say for your model in particular, but I can tell you that there is a huge difference in quality between the windshields I've gotten for Porsches and Land Rovers. Not so much on Fords and Chevys. I don't know if that's an import/domestic thing, and expensive car thing, or a small production run thing. It could be worse... Range Rovers have the heated wind screen thing... hugely expensive!
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Oct 2, 2012 21:54
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BrokenKnucklez posted:It could be worse... Range Rovers have the heated wind screen thing... hugely expensive! So do all Disco 2 and later with the cold climate package. It's an $800-$1200 windshield.
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Oct 2, 2012 22:04
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BrokenKnucklez posted:It could be worse... Range Rovers have the heated wind screen thing... hugely expensive! Same with every rear windshield. For a 93 Taurus it was something like $500 a decade ago. Fuckers and their bb guns.
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Oct 3, 2012 01:12
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My friend's car is doing an odd thing. 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid. About 30s after she starts driving it "stutters". Just once. Today it happened while stopping at a light and the car stalled out. It's VERY consistent, happening about the same distance away from places she commonly drives, and after it happens everything is fine. Any thoughts?
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Oct 3, 2012 02:24
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Godholio posted:Same with every rear windshield. For a 93 Taurus it was something like $500 a decade ago. Fuckers and their bb guns. I didn't realize rear heated glass was so expensive, but Broken and I aren't talking about big rear end stuck-to-the-inside kinda heating elements. These are very small wires embedded between glass layers. You barely notice them unless you get up close. And it's a glorious option to have (if you ever deal with cold and humid). I don't know why it's not on more cars.
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Oct 3, 2012 02:28
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 My first truck, a Ford Ranger EDGE  I want to put bigger tires on this thing once these wear out. What are the biggest I can do without lifting it? or should I lift it!?
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Oct 3, 2012 02:48
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Agrocrag posted:What are the biggest I can do without lifting it? or should I lift it!? For what purpose? Is this a mall crawler or do you need clearance for something. If so, you should talk about what kind of surfaces you drive on and the soil/mud conditions.
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Oct 3, 2012 03:12
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I recently bought a 1988 Firebird Trans Am (305 TPI 5-speed). She's got a lot of issues so this may be an unanswerable question. She starts up just fine and idles at 800-900 RPMs all day... until I start driving it. She likes to stall out when putting the clutch in and decelerating but I can start her right back up again. While the clutch is in or while I'm at a stop light the tach will jump around between like 200 and 1000 RPMs. I say "likes to" because it's not all the time but it might happen 2 or 3 times on a 5 mile drive. The check engine light comes on when it stalls but shuts off upon restart, also I don't have the proper code reading device and the paper clip method was too confusing for me (the flashes seemed to flash a code 6?). From the info I've been able to gather from the web the O2 sensor(s) seems to be the most prominent suggestion. Anyone have a clue as to what's up? disclaimer: I don't really know much about cars.
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Oct 3, 2012 03:38
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Motronic posted:For what purpose? Is this a mall crawler or do you need clearance for something. If so, you should talk about what kind of surfaces you drive on and the soil/mud conditions. My friends go off roading, or what they like to call mudd'n. I would like to join them on some of the lighter trails. For example my friend has an 80's 4runner with 33" tires and a six inch lift. I don't want something huge, just slightly better than stock
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Oct 3, 2012 03:42
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goat manilla posted:I recently bought a 1988 Firebird Trans Am (305 TPI 5-speed). She's got a lot of issues so this may be an unanswerable question. I admittedly don't know poo poo about 80s GM injection - however, I'd guess this is either a bad idle air control valve (or whatever controls idle on 80s GM TPI) and/or a sizable vacuum leak. A hissing under the hood would point toward a vacuum leak. Same if you hear a hissing when you step on the brakes, though that would be localized to the brake booster. Generally, an oxygen sensor doesn't have much to do with idle (again, not familiar with 80s GM injection, so I could be off). I'm going to guess Motronic will be able to take a much more accurate guess though.
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Oct 3, 2012 05:41
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Motronic posted:I didn't realize rear heated glass was so expensive, but Broken and I aren't talking about big rear end stuck-to-the-inside kinda heating elements. These are very small wires embedded between glass layers. You barely notice them unless you get up close. It quite literally... is the loving bee's knees of automotive technology. If you live in a lovely climate, you never ever scrape a window again. For what its worth, My Cadillac has the ability to have heated windows, but is currently replaced with a non heated window. And no, I am not spending $800 on it. The alternator even has special leads on it just for the window heater. goat manilla posted:
Your check engine light is doing the correct thing.. because theres nothing running and well, check the engine. Your O2 sensor would only cause rich as hell running, so smell your exhaust. If it smells really rich there is problem 1. Also check your plugs, wires, rotor and cap, those can all lead to lovely running (this is a right of passage by the way - changing plugs on an F body is hell). Check your vacuum lines as well... grab some carb cleaner and spray it in the general vicinity of vacuum lines. If your idle changes, that will give you an idea of what lines are bad. But I am sure at this point, non of the lines have ever been changed and are pretty toast from heat and so on. http://youtu.be/V8nZpQyoRh4 This video is at least decent and mildly entertaining. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 09:20
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There actually is a hissing noise that I can hear right after I shut the car off, so perhaps there is a vacuum leak? I can't say that I hear it while braking though. I was afraid I would have to replace the plugs, wires, and cap... I suppose this confirms that. I guess these will be my next steps then, thanks for your quick responses... and thanks for that youtube video, the guy explains it much better than stupid Ehow.
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Oct 3, 2012 11:30
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Motronic posted:I don't know why it's not on more cars. Motronic posted:It's an $800-$1200 windshield.  This glasschat is why I keep glass coverage on all my vehicles no matter how old. Given the number of windows and windshields I've had replaced, I think I'm currently ahead by around $4,000.
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Oct 3, 2012 13:06
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Splizwarf posted:
Adding $800 as an option on luxobarges (think 5/7 series, A8's etc) is tenths of a percent of the purchase price for an option that they could sell the hell out of if more people actually knew just how awesome it is. Think about it....people are willing to pay $1700 extra for 4-zone climate control and a retractable side shade on an A8. Or $800 for a heated steering wheel and rear seats plus a ski bag (also A8 pricing).
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Oct 3, 2012 15:04
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goat manilla posted:There actually is a hissing noise that I can hear right after I shut the car off, so perhaps there is a vacuum leak? I can't say that I hear it while braking though. I was afraid I would have to replace the plugs, wires, and cap... I suppose this confirms that. I guess these will be my next steps then, thanks for your quick responses... and thanks for that youtube video, the guy explains it much better than stupid Ehow. Hissing can be many things. Did you have the AC on? Hissing that is loud enough to hear is generally AC that is low, but not always. Start with your ignition parts then move on. If the car has been neglected, plugs wires and so forth will usually spring them back to life. Also, this gives you a good place to start from. A solid ignition system is the back bone to any car and gives a good place to start testing.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:37
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I have a 2006 bmw 530i, a little over 60k miles. The other day my stupid friend took it up to 144 mph. Its never gone that fast. The car will be fine right?
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Oct 3, 2012 16:38
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sincx posted:I have a 2006 bmw 530i, a little over 60k miles. The other day my stupid friend took it up to 144 mph. Its never gone that fast. Is it doing anything weird? If not it's fine.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:47
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sincx posted:I have a 2006 bmw 530i, a little over 60k miles. The other day my stupid friend took it up to 144 mph. Its never gone that fast. What's the problem? It was designed to do that.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:49
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sincx posted:I have a 2006 bmw 530i, a little over 60k miles. The other day my stupid friend took it up to 144 mph. Its never gone that fast. Many of them do that every single day back where it was made. Unless you have terrible tires or overheated the brakes or something you're fine.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:57
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sincx posted:I have a 2006 bmw 530i, a little over 60k miles. The other day my stupid friend took it up to 144 mph. Its never gone that fast. Its limited to 155. For short bursts, I don't see the problem. The worst thing that could happen is tire failure... but usually they require that higher speed tires.
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Oct 3, 2012 16:58
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I hope you told your friend that was okay for him to do. Otherwise, gently caress that guy 
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Oct 3, 2012 19:17
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I've read that mixing coolant types can result in a cooling system full of crystallized goop. Will this happen immediately and at any temperature? I just removed all the cooling system parts and drained the block in a new-to-me BMW, and I'm not sure what the PO used. I think it was originally green, but what's in my catch pan is kind of brownish or redish green. Could I pour a little BMW factory coolant into the pan as a test for reactivity? Alternately, I was thinking I'd refill the system with only distiller water and run that for a few days and dump it as a flush, then refill with factory coolant/water. I never liked the idea of using water from a hose for flushing - if you're only supposed to use distiller water when you mix/fill, why put tap water through it and risk leaving residue? Thoughts?
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Oct 3, 2012 22:01
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televiper posted:Thoughts? I like your thinking sir. Carry on, except there will be no reactivity. Actually I would be more worried that there is something mixing in with your coolant if your describing a red color. That is usually transmission fluid (if its an auto box)... Is your radiator new? If your that far in, might as well replace the radiator too. Flush the hell out of it, then replace with a proper 50/50 coolant mixture specified for your car. And as outlandish as this sounds, ask your dealers price on coolant. At least my local dealer is competitive on pricing. I'm willing to pay an extra $1.00 just for proper fluids. For a side note: Before I was active here in AI, I was guilty of just using "what ever". After being here, I find that its just worth spending a little extra for proper fluids.
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Oct 3, 2012 22:58
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Does anyone have a list of what Mercedes defines as their "A" and "B" services? I found this, but it's from 2006 and I'm not sure if things have changed. Yes. I am aware how ridiculous this is. quote:A SERVICE (~ $225.95 + tax) :
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Oct 3, 2012 23:10
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