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I was gonna say... 77mm is probably the best place to invest in filters.
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Sep 29, 2012 06:58
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SoundMonkey posted:82mm is the pro filter diameter What if you get something with a red ring? 
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Sep 29, 2012 07:03
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Representing the proest filter size: 49mm 
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Sep 29, 2012 09:09
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longview posted:Representing the proest filter size: 49mm My two favorite lenses use either 49mm or 82mm. I hate buying filters, btw. 
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Sep 29, 2012 09:20
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SoundMonkey posted:77mm is the pro filter diameter Yeah a ton of good lenses use 77. Remember that you need caps for each step down ring you get if you plan on leaving them on.
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Sep 29, 2012 10:17
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39mm ought to be enough for anybody.
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Sep 29, 2012 20:01
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I'm pretty sure this is forbidden in the bible somewhere
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Sep 29, 2012 21:58
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Martytoof posted:I'm pretty sure this is forbidden in the bible somewhere
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Sep 29, 2012 23:38
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I inherited a Nikon D40 with some sort of close up lens and some sort of autofocus lens. The camera on my android phone is complicated enough for me. How much money could I be looking at if I tried to unload this thing?
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Sep 29, 2012 23:48
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TheReverend posted:I inherited a Nikon D40 with some sort of close up lens and some sort of autofocus lens. The camera on my android phone is complicated enough for me. How much money could I be looking at if I tried to unload this thing? Give us the numbers/letters on the front / sides of the lenses. D40 with kit lens? Probably $150-200. Unknown macro? More likely the low end, but ... $25 - $500. It could be some super rare macro lens, but what are the chances of that, right?
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Sep 29, 2012 23:50
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Krakkles posted:Give us the numbers/letters on the front / sides of the lenses. I'm having trouchle finding model numbers. Short one says: AF NIKKOR 50mm 1:1.8 Big one says:(DX)af-s nikor 55-200mm and DX SWM ED [infinity]-.95m/3.12ft [null]52
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Sep 29, 2012 23:58
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TheReverend posted:I'm having trouchle finding model numbers. You nailed it, those were exactly what we need. A Nikkor AF 50 f/1.8 is probably worth about $80. They sell new for about $125. The Nikkor AF-S 55-200 is probably good for about $125-150. Retail is $199.
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Sep 30, 2012 00:09
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Ok so 325 for everything, is that a fair deal? Thanks for the help 
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Sep 30, 2012 00:18
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Or sell the lenses and get a 35 mm f/1.8. The best Nikon lens ever.
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Sep 30, 2012 00:27
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TheReverend posted:Ok so 325 for everything, is that a fair deal?
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Sep 30, 2012 00:33
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50 1.8 is a pretty common but "sought after" lens because it's cheap, fast, and good. You'll likely have zero problems unloading that. Everything else? Ehh. You'll find a buyer but it'll probably be someone who doesn't know much about digital photography or really doesn't want to spend a lot.
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Sep 30, 2012 01:12
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I dunno, the d40 is the best dslr ever made.
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Sep 30, 2012 02:09
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SoundMonkey posted:77mm is the pro filter diameter 77mm is optimal for most people. For the P67 crowd, I recommend the 82mm for compatibility with the 75mm and some of the long lenses. Step up rings are cheap as hell. e: 49mm is inferior, get 52 or 58mm and use an adapter.
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Sep 30, 2012 02:45
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TheReverend posted:The camera on my android phone is complicated enough for me. Phone camera apps are hell to control and a DSLR is much easier to use. (And the basic parameters of an exposure are quite easy to understand, and those are all you need to know to use it in a non-auto mode. In full auto you obviously don't get as much control of the final result, but the image quality will still be superior to a phone camera.)
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Sep 30, 2012 09:04
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Urgh angry about flashes here. I bought a Nissin Di466 for Nikon and a Hähnel wireless trigger on sale today, thinking I would finally get not just proper manual controlled flash, but also off-camera. Well, turns out that the drat flash only fires when it gets full i-TTL control signals. It's literally impossible to have it trigger with a basic two-contact hotshoe. Meaning that it can't be triggered by the radio trigger. At least it can still work in an optically triggered slave-mode, so if I trigger one flash with the radio-thingy then the Nissin can trigger from that in turn. But... why. Why can't you just make a flash that works on any stupid camera. 
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Sep 30, 2012 19:38
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nielsm posted:Urgh angry about flashes here. http://www.nissindigital.com/files/en_di466_users_nmanual.pdf It defaults to TTL mode but according to this PDF you can set it in manual mode.
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Oct 1, 2012 03:54
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8th-samurai posted:http://www.nissindigital.com/files/en_di466_users_nmanual.pdf I know. Manual mode still only fires when it gets TTL signalling. It fires on my D40's hotshoe. It won't on my F90, Rollei 35 or radio trigger, regardless of mode set. The Slave 2 mode is the only way to get that flash to trigger without i-TTL signalling in the hotshoe.
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Oct 1, 2012 10:22
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Why did you buy this instead of one of the many cheap flashes known to work without ttl? :-/
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Oct 1, 2012 10:37
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nielsm posted:Phone camera apps are hell to control and a DSLR is much easier to use. (And the basic parameters of an exposure are quite easy to understand, and those are all you need to know to use it in a non-auto mode. In full auto you obviously don't get as much control of the final result, but the image quality will still be superior to a phone camera.) I decided to give it a try. Here's a photo of my kitty. Am I doing this right? I used the short lens. Manual focus. http://i.imgur.com/JDXbU.jpg
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Oct 1, 2012 21:45
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Thanks for the replies about the filter thread size. I have another question. I got the tamrom 17-50mm f/2.8 and I see it comes with a lens hood. Does the hood interfere with putting a filter on? I'm intending to put a 77mm circular polarizer with a step up ring to get the filter to match with the 67mm filter thread. Any issues with this combination?
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Oct 2, 2012 02:16
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TheReverend posted:I decided to give it a try. Here's a photo of my kitty. Am I doing this right? You have successfully uploaded a picture of a cat to the internet. That's probably an achievement of some kind. Sarcasm and suchlike aside, it's a decent picture - the eyes are in focus, something appears to be happening (even if it's only cat-stare-at-nothing), and the exposure (short explanation: how bright everything is) isn't bad. Shoot lots more, and tell us how you like it. Perhaps you'll enjoy it?
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Oct 2, 2012 02:59
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GoldenNugget posted:
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Oct 2, 2012 07:51
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evil_bunnY posted:it's either the hood or the polarizer, sorry. Thanks for the reply. That's too bad. So what's better for outdoor shooting? The polarizer or hood? I have noticed on my other lens that I do get some lens glare if the sun is in front and above me but I do like getting bluer skies if it's a sunny day. vv thanks! GoldenNugget fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Oct 2, 2012 |
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Oct 2, 2012 09:09
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I'd probably just use the hood whenever I'm not outside. It's pretty small (since it has to cover only enough for 17mm) so I wouldn't sweat it too much. It's nice to protect the front element from bumps though.
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Oct 2, 2012 09:21
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Cross posting from the Canon thread. I just received an email that DWI is selling the 7D Body Only for AU$999 as a "group buy" (whatever that means) for the next 18 hours to Aussies and Kiwis. A total of 50 available. They include postage and their courier/insurance prices are pretty drat cheap. I've used them a few times and am pretty happy with them, so I thought I'd share here in case anyone was interested.
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Oct 3, 2012 08:53
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My wife currently shoots on a 50D and uses the 17-50 Tamron as well as the nifty 50 usually. She wants to get a second body and turn the 50D into a backup, and is considering going full frame. Would those two workhorse lenses be usable on say a 5dmkii? If not, how do you know which lenses will work?
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Oct 3, 2012 19:05
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khysanth posted:My wife currently shoots on a 50D and uses the 17-50 Tamron as well as the nifty 50 usually. She wants to get a second body and turn the 50D into a backup, and is considering going full frame. Would those two workhorse lenses be usable on say a 5dmkii? If not, how do you know which lenses will work? 17-50, no. 50mm, yes. On a full frame body, Canon lenses that are designed "EF" (as opposed to EF-S) will work on full frame. Tamron has a similar designation for full frame vs. crop lenses, but I don't recall what it is.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:11
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The 17-50 will mount and not cause damage to the camera (as an ef-s will hit the mirror) but the vignetting will make the lens essentially useless. It's kind of, sort of usable on a 1.3x crop.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:13
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Crop sensors have come a long way since the 50D. I wouldn't rule out a newer crop body, especially given the price premium of full frame.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:33
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khysanth posted:She wants to get a second body and turn the 50D into a backup, and is considering going full frame.
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Oct 3, 2012 19:43
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TheAngryDrunk posted:17-50, no. The Tamron code is "Di". For dual format you see. For crop sensor lenses they're called "Di II", which stands for Crop Sensor Only. There's also "Di III" which stands for "Mirrorless Cameras" It's very clear, really.
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Oct 3, 2012 20:10
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Mr. Despair posted:The Tamron code is "Di". For dual format you see. For crop sensor lenses they're called "Di II", which stands for Crop Sensor Only. There's also "Di III" which stands for "Mirrorless Cameras" Clear as mud!
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Oct 3, 2012 22:01
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evil_bunnY posted:Why and what is it for? She has been booking more wedding gigs and needs a backup body for those (has been renting lenses, obviously). She also shoots a lot of wildlife and I work in film, so I personally think the 7D might be a good choice for the extra range a crop provides on lenses like the 100-400, and being able to shoot video for me.
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Oct 4, 2012 18:23
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Just picked up a T3i as my first DSLR and as expected a blast already. Have the kit lens and a 55-250, but no prime lens. Is the 50 1.8 II pretty much the standard budget lens? In my limited usage, I've found on close shots I really prefer manual zoom (rather than it wandering for 20 seconds while I lose that great shot), and I've read it's not as easy to manual focus as others. Price is a concern, but if I like to manual focus is it better to go with the 1.4 or 35 F2? Any other brand options that will fully interface with the camera for a cheaper price, or is it just pretty much not worth it to go with anything else?
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Oct 5, 2012 02:44
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Sigma and Tamron lenses are fully compatible with cameras from Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, and Olympus (did I miss anyone?) if the Sigma/Tamron lens is made in the appropriate mount. Those third-party or aftermarket lenses are usually just as good as the brand-name gear; the Tamron 17-50/2.8 is in the thread title for a good reason. The aftermarket lenses are often, but certainly not always, cheaper than the brand-name equivalents (equivalent here meaning focal length and maximum aperture, other features may differ), though the market shifts around fairly quickly. There are a few other manufacturers, too, like Tokina or Samyang, that also make lenses in major-brand mounts; they also "fully interface", though Samyang in particular is carving out a niche making new manual-focus-only lenses (so obviously it won't autofocus on your T3i). If you find you really like close shots you could consider a macro lens (and yeah, manual focus is pretty much standard when it comes to the really close stuff, partly because the depth-of-field on that bee in that flower is 2mm if you're lucky). The macro thread is a good place to get some ideas: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3269817
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Oct 5, 2012 03:13
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