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Ashex posted:I bought a 2008 Versys yesterday and am loving it, I do kinda wish I got the one I test drove earlier that week as it definitely had a bit more torque to it but this one has 15k less miles. Popping on deceleration is pretty normal. I think it means that you're a little bit rich for conditions (high revs with the throttle plate closed), but fixing that problem would make you lean everywhere else.
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Oct 6, 2012 22:57
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Ashex posted:I bought a 2008 Versys yesterday and am loving it, I do kinda wish I got the one I test drove earlier that week as it definitely had a bit more torque to it but this one has 15k less miles. It's unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust and exploding there. With less back pressure from the new exhaust, it flows quicker and doesn't have time to ignite in the cylinders. If your bike is EFI, you can have it remapped. However it's extremely common, and unless gross, won't damage anything. Happens on my bike too, and I kinda like it.
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Oct 6, 2012 23:03
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xaarman posted:It's unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust and exploding there. With less back pressure from the new exhaust, it flows quicker and doesn't have time to ignite in the cylinders. If your bike is EFI, you can have it remapped. However it's extremely common, and unless gross, won't damage anything. Happens on my bike too, and I kinda like it. Yeah it's an awesome sound and Aprilia had to withdraw a remap for the Shiver/Dorsoduro because so many people complained about it "fixing" the "problem". It's probably not brilliant, long-term, for your catalytic converter but probably no worse than the occasional tank of bad fuel.
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Oct 6, 2012 23:09
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grunthaas posted:I was oiling the chain on my 98 zx6r today and noticed that theres a lot (>5mm) of rotational movement between the rear sprocket and wheel. I took the wheel off and the cush drive rubber is all there, I guess it must have just squished up with age, is this too much free play? How much slack is there if you try and pull the chain from the sprocket? Also, what do the teeth look like on the sprocket? For reference: 
xaarman fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 23:11
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Got it, the PO kinda said the same thing as you guys. I'll take a look at the EFI settings later today. Any idea why the torque is different then the other Versys I rode (it accelerating much faster)? From what I saw that one was all stock except for heat grips and a Scorpion exhaust. Ashex fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 23:14
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Burble and pop on decel are not the same as the very noticeable BANG of backfiring, which can be destructive and does indicate something's wrong. If you think it's fueling funny and down on power, an aftermarket fuel controller (or whatever map / tuning it's set up with) is a definite suspect. Generally they're only needed if you have at least non-trivial intake and exhaust mods, so if you don't have anything more than a slipon you may want to try removing the Juice Box and seeing if it runs better.
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Oct 7, 2012 00:01
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Also JASO MA means it doesn't have the 'high efficiency' additives for car engines that are potentially bad for your clutch. So you want a JASO MA oil. I don't know what MA2 means off top of head.
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Oct 7, 2012 00:04
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cixelsyd posted:oiloiloil Rotella T6 is fine, fellow Floridian here and it's been in my bikes for years. Use away.
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Oct 7, 2012 01:02
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Popping on deceleration can mean lean too.
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Oct 7, 2012 01:33
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What do you use to clean a helmet visor? I've tried windex in the past but it seemed to mess with the plastic... or maybe that was the rubbing alcohol
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Oct 7, 2012 02:41
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Ashex posted:I bought a 2008 Versys yesterday and am loving it, I do kinda wish I got the one I test drove earlier that week as it definitely had a bit more torque to it but this one has 15k less miles. Does it have an aftermarket pipe? That generally happens with them. Its not anything to worry about unless its like one single large bang instead of multiple pops and burbles.
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Oct 7, 2012 03:04
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 Naturally, my DRZ has been dropped before and it takes it well with some exceptions. I'm looking to replace this part and found the Zeta Comp Bar Stabilizer (http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/5/13/index.shtml), but I'm having a difficult time finding out what size or where to measure from especially since the size ranges from 80mm-106mm which isn't too much of a gap to screw it up. Any ideas goons? (Those are Renthal Fatbars, which if I'm correct are 1 1/8" tapering to 5/8" at the end)
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Oct 7, 2012 03:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Does it have an aftermarket pipe? That generally happens with them. Its not anything to worry about unless its like one single large bang instead of multiple pops and burbles. I would consider it a single large bang, I'll see if I record a sample for you guys as it doesn't sound incredibly loud but it doesn't come in multiples.
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Oct 7, 2012 05:14
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My ZX6R and GSXR both made loud pops / flame coming off the throttle quick or rolling back in.
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Oct 7, 2012 06:14
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Pham Nuwen posted:What do you use to clean a helmet visor? I've tried windex in the past but it seemed to mess with the plastic... or maybe that was the rubbing alcohol plain water always seemed to work fine for me.
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Oct 7, 2012 06:28
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I use washing up liquid, hot water and a plain sponge. Just make sure you havn't left spaghetti bolognese on the sponge; it makes a mess. I just carry a bit of kitchen towel when I'm out. My friend's got a pinlock on his visor. It was working fine, then it got a wee bit of fog in the corner. He took it off to clean, reinstalled it and now it all fogs up. Anyone got any ideas or tips?
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Oct 7, 2012 09:03
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Orange Someone posted:I use washing up liquid, hot water and a plain sponge. Just make sure you havn't left spaghetti bolognese on the sponge; it makes a mess. I just carry a bit of kitchen towel when I'm out. Washing up liquid has salts in it that scratches plastics/hazes it. Use regular water or a specialist visor cleaning spray..
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Oct 7, 2012 10:25
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I just use lukewarm water and soft soap. I also have some Novus (plastic clean and polish/scratch remover) that I use occasionally.
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Oct 7, 2012 13:13
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Ashex posted:I would consider it a single large bang, I'll see if I record a sample for you guys as it doesn't sound incredibly loud but it doesn't come in multiples. The generic answer to possible fuel / air / spark issues on a modded bike is to return it to stock and get it running right from there and then put the mods back on one by one. Still think that Juice Box setup could be done wrong or busted. Does it just plug into the diagnostics plug or is it snaked into all sorts of poo poo?
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Oct 7, 2012 14:02
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Doing my first complete teardown and rebuild on a CB900c. There's a sprocket on the main shaft that makes no sense. What's it for? I'm not going nuts, it's supposed to be installed, I just can't figure out why. Right here, part #11: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1980-honda-900-custom-cb900c/o/m151816#sch4721 You can see it installed in the service manual here. It's clearer in the picture on the right. See how the teeth don't quite line up with the actual drive gear? That's cause it has a different number of teeth. But it doesn't drive anything. It mates with the clutch outer along with the main drive gear, and seems to rotate at a different speed for no apparent reason. More confusing is that there's no bearing or anything. It just slides between the main sprocket and the collar in the left pic. 
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Oct 7, 2012 18:30
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Weird. Some sort of locking ring?
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Oct 7, 2012 19:10
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Ola posted:Weird. Some sort of locking ring?
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Oct 7, 2012 19:44
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Could be some sort of oil delivery/distribution mechanism, sort of working as a gear pump? Or could dampen vibration. I don't know, I'm just making stuff up here.
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Oct 7, 2012 19:53
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rebuild it without it in, bounce it off the rev limiter until it stops making noise, tear it back down and see what broke. FOR SCIENCE.
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Oct 7, 2012 20:22
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So I went to start my bike today and couldn't get it to fully turn over. Was working fine last night when I parked it, and I could tell someone messed with it a bit over night (not uncommon where I live), adjusting the mirrors and so forth. Not a huge deal, but could be related. So I went to start it. FI primes, 1st gear with the clutch in, starter motor turns, but no complete cranks. The bike gave a good lurch forward too, which it normally does, but no where near this strong. I repeat this for a bit because I'm dumb and figure it was most likely just the cold weather. Drop the bike into neutral, clutch in, FI primes, hit the starter and I'm still not getting any complete rotations, though the battery seems kind of weak at this point. Starter is still turning, but sounds weak. I called a friend who helped me try and bump start it, but as soon as I drop it into gear it the rear wheel basically just locks up. Maybe get 1/8 of a rotations before it skidded. So with the clutch lever in all the way in it appears that the clutch is not fully disengaged. With the lever pulled in all the way it was still quite hard to get the bike rolling around. With the bike in neutral it rolled no problem. So my first order of business will be to re-adjust the clutch once I get it home to my garage. With the bike in first gear we could push the bike, but it took both of us to do it. Also the bike did lurch forward when the starter was applied. So I'm still hopefull the engine isn't seized. Today was the coldest day I've tried to run the bike so that may be a factor as well.
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Oct 7, 2012 20:36
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Today was my last ride before going on a business trip and then vacation, so I won't see my bikes for nine days. I shut the fuel off on the carbureted one and rode it until the bowl was dry -- anything else I can do to encourage them to start right back up when I get home?
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Oct 7, 2012 22:31
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Safety Dance posted:Today was my last ride before going on a business trip and then vacation, so I won't see my bikes for nine days. I shut the fuel off on the carbureted one and rode it until the bowl was dry -- anything else I can do to encourage them to start right back up when I get home? give them a motivational speech? Seat-rub? Me, I usually just turn the key and push the start button, but my last 2 bikes have been fuel injected.
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Oct 7, 2012 22:49
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I was thinking some sort of safety dance...
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Oct 7, 2012 23:09
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Boss posted:So I went to start my bike today and couldn't get it to fully turn over. Sounds like a combination of cold oil and maladjusted/worn clutch. What weight are you running, and how cold was "coldest?"
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Oct 7, 2012 23:20
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nsaP posted:I was thinking some sort of safety dance... Oh you...
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Oct 8, 2012 00:03
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Any CAers use a bike pump for maintaining tire pressure? I'll be in NC for a year, away from our lovely 200+ gallon shop air compressor, and need a way of topping up my tires. I had been looking at little 120v and 12v compressors but they all seem to suck, a manual pump would have way fewer things to have go wrong. I was thinking about a floor pump like this: http://www.amazon.com/Serfas-TCPG-Bicycle-Floor-Pump/dp/B001MK3GFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1349648176&sr=1-1 Thoughts? MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 00:37
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I use something pretty much exactly like that and it works great. I only have to pump about 2 times per PSI, so it's definitely an easy solution.
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Oct 8, 2012 00:56
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Any CAers use a bike pump for maintaining tire pressure? I'll be in NC for a year, away from our lovely 200+ gallon shop air compressor, and need a way of topping up my tires. I had been looking at little 120v and 12v compressors but they all seem to suck, a manual pump would have way fewer things to have go wrong. I've used one similar to that, it worked well. Better than he cheap Halfords foot pump I usually use, but even a foot pump still does the job.
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Oct 8, 2012 00:58
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Most gas stations have free or cheap compressed air you know
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Oct 8, 2012 02:42
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AncientTV posted:Sounds like a combination of cold oil and maladjusted/worn clutch. What weight are you running, and how cold was "coldest?" Ok so I got it running once I got it in a garage and charged up my battery. Adjusting my clutch will be the first thing I do tomorrow. I'm also starting to suspect my battery may be on its way out. No hard feelings its given 6 years of service. It was about 8C out. Which is about 46F. I'm running 10w40 right now. Still felt like there was quite a bit of drive train drag with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. In neutral the bike rolls with ease. Took quite a bit of force to roll it with the clutch lever pulled all the way in. Am I right to think this is a symptom of a misaligned clutch?
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Oct 8, 2012 04:48
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I have a similar question. I've had to push start a number of times, and I've noticed that, while the bike rolls easily in neutral, putting it in 2nd and rolling it with the clutch disengaged (lever pulled all the way in) takes slightly more work, and I can hear something softly clicking. Why is this?
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Oct 8, 2012 04:54
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Because you're still turning the transmission.
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Oct 8, 2012 05:23
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xaarman posted:How much slack is there if you try and pull the chain from the sprocket? Also, what do the teeth look like on the sprocket? For reference: Not much slack and teeth are good, I put on a new chain and sprockets about 4000 miles / 6 months ago. I cant remember if this movement was there before, I just happened to have noticed it this time when I was doing the chain. grunthaas fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 10:15
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Boss posted:Ok so I got it running once I got it in a garage and charged up my battery. Not necessarily, cold oil can still make pushing a bike around hard work, the rear wheel is still trying to spin the transmission. Adjust it as far out as it will go while still being operational, and compare that with how everything feels now. If it doesn't feel any different, you're just feeling oil drag and can switch to 5w30 or 5w40 if you want (but 10w is still 100% fine for that temperature range). If it feels different, you'll know that your clutch was maladjusted. Adjust from there to suit your preferences.
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Oct 8, 2012 14:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:What do you use to clean a helmet visor? I've tried windex in the past but it seemed to mess with the plastic... or maybe that was the rubbing alcohol Generally never use Windex or other home-window-cleaning products for anything you have to drive or ride, as one of the big selling points of most home windowcleaners is the super shine that they add to the surface. You can probably imagine why this is death-grade horrible at night on the road. People have already recommended visor-specific stuff; I use Stoner's Invisible Glass for cars (works nicely on uncoated glasses too).
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Oct 8, 2012 14:22
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