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Geirskogul posted:Because you're still turning the transmission.
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Oct 8, 2012 15:29
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So my bike has been pretty much unattended for 4 months. Jumped started a couple times for short trips. (dumb to leave it. I know) It obviously won't crank over right now. Should I bother getting it charged at autozone or just get a new one? Can I get a new battery at an autoparts store or must I go through a dealer? (it's a KTM)
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Oct 8, 2012 17:47
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Get it tested at autozone and see if it's ok. I'd get an AGM battery at your local batteries plus.
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Oct 8, 2012 18:15
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I bought a 1996 FZR600 engine (crashed, badly, no carbs/starter/etc, chunks out of the case) , to take apart with my 8 year old nephew, as a means to introducing him to wrenching. We had an awesome time yesterday afternoon, managed to get the following parts off - camshaft cover camshaft retainers (top half of bearings?) camshaft chain guide oil sump oil pressure switch all the crankshaft main bolts How does one go about getting the cams out? I put together a couple of SBC engines when I was right out of high school, so I am not complete novice, but the cam gear is in the middle on this thing, I am dumbfounded. Is there a basic procedure to splitting the case? Of course I do not have a shop manual, this was a $100 impulse purchase and I doubt there is a lot of stuff to salvage here. I would like to sell the pistons/rods on ebay, just so my nephew can see and end goal to this. tldr: how do I get the cams out of an inline 4 bike motor, how do I get the block away from the lower case?
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Oct 8, 2012 20:15
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some_admin posted:I bought a 1996 FZR600 engine (crashed, badly, no carbs/starter/etc, chunks out of the case) , to take apart with my 8 year old nephew, as a means to introducing him to wrenching. A google search for "FZR manual" will get you one. In fact the first two results link to a directory with the entire manual in PDF format.
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Oct 8, 2012 20:58
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Z3n posted:Get it tested at autozone and see if it's ok. It's dead I have the YTZ10S and that's $140 (AGM one) ordered from o reily. The ETZ10S is $90 and I can get it today. I think that's 180 cold start amps and the Y is 190. Plus a bit of a size difference. With some googling I see a lot of sumo people talking about the speedcell ss. I don't think I'll be keeping the bike for all that much longer. I haven't called battery plus yet. What do you guys think?
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Oct 8, 2012 21:56
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Just get whatever's available now. I doubt you'll notice a difference and when you sell you won't be mad you put in a nice battery just in time for the new owner to ride off on it.
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Oct 8, 2012 21:58
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So I'll be fine with the cheaper one? $50 is a big difference. And why the gently caress are car batteries cheaper? The cold start won't make a difference? - edit battery plus has the same one I have (Yuasa model) for $90. Guess I'll go with that Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 22:29
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SB35 posted:A google search for "FZR manual" will get you one. In fact the first two results link to a directory with the entire manual in PDF format. derp, yeah I guess that was kind of lazy. I'm usually more diligent. thanks to goon who actually pm the manual to me.
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Oct 8, 2012 22:47
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Yeah that's why batteries plus is the best.
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Oct 9, 2012 00:05
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I can't find a clear answer on google but looks like the speedcell is $250 Thanks dude. I hope he got the model right because $50 is a big difference. Guess I'll find out when I get there.
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Oct 9, 2012 00:08
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If you just want a cheap battery that will crank, auto stores often don't have bike batteries but Wal-Mart does and they're p cheap
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Oct 9, 2012 07:53
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Got one from Walmart yesterday for $60 bux.
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Oct 9, 2012 12:18
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Suspension! So my 1991 Nighthawk has what appears to be the stock suspension on it. Going over even small bumps feels pretty rough. Big bumps are like a kick in the rear end, complete with nasty clunking sound. That said, never having ridden a bike with anything but stock suspension - what will changing out the rear shocks for some progressive shocks do for the bike? In what way does it change things? Do I also replace the springs? Are those part of the assembly or separate?
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Oct 9, 2012 13:27
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What's the deal with Lithium battery conversions? I take it the bike wont charge the battery properly (or at all?) so I'll have to occasionally plug her in?
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Oct 9, 2012 13:34
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Dont put a lithium battery on your bike unless the battery has charging and balancing circuitry built in. You cant just endlessly trickle charge a lithium like you can a regular battery or you'll wind up with a nice lithium fire
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Oct 9, 2012 14:57
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You cant just endlessly trickle charge a lithium like you can a regular battery or you'll wind up with a nice lithium fire Maybe that's exactly what he wants. 
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Oct 9, 2012 14:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Dont put a lithium battery on your bike unless the battery has charging and balancing circuitry built in. You cant just endlessly trickle charge a lithium like you can a regular battery or you'll wind up with a nice lithium fire You can put a Shorai lithium battery on a trickle charger if it does not have a desulfication mode. The Battery Tender brand fits the bill. The special balancing chargers are better for them though.
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Oct 9, 2012 15:44
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Wouldn't a lithium battery be considerably less useful in an automotive application? Big current drains tend to kill them off, they die naturally in a few years, and when they go wrong they get a bit explode-y which is suboptimal given where most bikes keep their batteries...
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Oct 9, 2012 17:50
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Backov posted:Suspension! Is it worth your money? If the shocks are functional, just softly sprung and damped from the factory, how much is it going to improve the usability of a 1991 Nighthawk to upgrade them? If it's really sitting on its rear end and (even after using any preload adjustment you may have) this is an issue for you, given the likely quality of the OEM shocks, I would spring (hah!) for a pair of complete aftermarket adjustables. Hagon, EMC, Ikon should be able to provide something relatively inexpensive with a spring rate appropriate for the bike and your weight. Hagon actually seem to do a range from 150 to 300+ UK poonds for the pair. http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/ http://www.emc-suspensions.fr/ http://www.ikonsuspension.com/
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Oct 9, 2012 19:24
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Wouldn't a lithium battery be considerably less useful in an automotive application? Big current drains tend to kill them off, they die naturally in a few years, and when they go wrong they get a bit explode-y which is suboptimal given where most bikes keep their batteries... http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx The LiFePO4 batteries have proven to be popular and durable, from everything I have read. There was a YouTube of an exploding Lithium battery, but I've read that almost any battery would fail catastrophically, explode etc. in the conditions of that test.
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Oct 9, 2012 22:24
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grunthaas posted:Not much slack and teeth are good, I put on a new chain and sprockets about 4000 miles / 6 months ago. I cant remember if this movement was there before, I just happened to have noticed it this time when I was doing the chain. As long as everything is properly tightened and you double checked it was the right chain/link/sprocket size, there shouldn't be any issues. xaarman fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Oct 9, 2012 |
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Oct 9, 2012 22:35
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Tamir Lenk posted:http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx There's a couple of slightly dubious omissions/distortions in the first paragraph of that blurb, none of which really address the problems with lithium-chemistry batteries I mentioned - particularly the self-discharge and capcacity-loss problems (both of which are exacerbated by keeping them in hot locations, and there aren't many cool locations on a bike). I know lead-acids self-discharge too but the capacity-loss problem just isn't there - grab an unused 20-year-old lead-acid battery, charge it up (maybe replace the electrolyte), it'll be as good as new. Also a good trickle charger like an optimate can desulfate a lead-acid battery which, as long as you don't let the damage get too far, basically means it'll last forever (not really, of course, but longer than the vehicle it fits in if there are no other problems). Also it doesn't even attempt to address the massive loss of efficiency of lithium batteries in high-current applications (even little bikes can need 5 or 10 amps to turn over) or the lower power density and charging efficency of LIon. They're fantastic where weight is all-important, particularly electronics where it's a constant low-drain, and I suppose they'd be great on a race bike running without a starter, maybe even without a generator on a total-loss system like the old 2-stroke GP bikes, but for road bike use I'm not sold. In particular, the safety thing will always be an issue to me. Lead-acid batteries are pretty nasty things when they fail - nobody likes hydrogen or sulfuric acid getting into places it shouldn't - but lithium is nastier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0&t=109s That's just from overcharging. Given the amount of hosed reg/recs in this thread alone I really don't know if I want that nestling 3 inches below my testicles. And yes, I know lithium batteries have a shitload of failsafes but ultimately in an identical situation - overcharging, safeties defeated - you're going to get a pop and maybe a flash of flame from a lead-acid battery, and probably some very nasty acid pooling in your battery tray (and they're normally plastic for a reason).
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Oct 9, 2012 23:11
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LiFePO4 cells are much safer than the usual Li-ion or LiPo cells, I have yet to see any reports of them actually exploding or even catching on fire.
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Oct 10, 2012 00:00
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The biggest complaint I've heard from Shorai owners is that they don't put out much amps when they're really cold. Drawing a little current self-heats fairly effectively, so on a cold morning turn your lights on for a few minutes before hitting the starter. Also Shorai was rather optimistic with recommended battery replacement sizes and you usually have to go a size up, or at least used to. Some guys said their batteries failed immediately or almost immediately, but I'm not sure any pattern was found, and that wasn't very recent. Long and short though, if you're not shaving every ounce for track work, your existing battery is probably fine
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Oct 10, 2012 00:54
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I'm shaving weight for the simple fact that I can. I left the bike stock for four years and now I'm just seeing how far I can take it. I've already dumped a fuckload of weight by taking out the megalithic air box and the boat-anchor stock exhaust, as well as stripping out the emissions hosing and valves. The battery is the next "needlessly" heavy item to look at. Next year, if I'm not using it to travel around the world, I'm spending my bonus on sending the cylinder and head for a complete bore, cam and flow job in Germany. Maybe some Alpina carbon matrix wheels and some suspension work too. Thanks for the input guys.
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Oct 10, 2012 07:57
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I take a poo poo before every ride for maximum performance.
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Oct 10, 2012 08:40
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nsaP posted:I take a poo poo before every ride for maximum performance. My laxative budget is approaching parity with my fuel budget.
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Oct 10, 2012 09:00
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If you don't use the rear brake, you might as well cut off your right leg. Saves both weight and drag. But no knee to scrape...hmmm, perhaps not a good idea after all.
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Oct 10, 2012 09:07
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I cut my head off to save weight. I save tons on no longer needing a helmet.
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Oct 10, 2012 09:21
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Collateral Damage posted:I cut my head off to save weight. I save tons on no longer needing a helmet. I cut off everything below the neck! 80% weight savings! 
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Oct 10, 2012 10:10
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Ola posted:If you don't use the rear brake, you might as well cut off your right leg. Saves both weight and drag. But no knee to scrape...hmmm, perhaps not a good idea after all. Also dont forget to actually remove the rear brake too, if you do this.
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Oct 10, 2012 12:14
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Hey guys, Gasoline is lighter than water, right, so can I use that for coolant instead? By my calculations I could save over 300 grammes. Ola posted:If you don't use the rear brake, you might as well cut off your right leg. Saves both weight and drag. But no knee to scrape...hmmm, perhaps not a good idea after all. What if I only cut off my leg below the knee? Best of both worlds surely?
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Oct 10, 2012 13:10
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Has anyone had Velocity Stacks on their 600 I-4 (or shortened-from-OEM stacks)? I'm thinking about getting some from Factory Pro for my 636 - mainly cuz of the sound. Does anyone have any opinion?
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 15:23
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the walkin dude posted:Has anyone had Velocity Stacks on their 600 I-4 (or shortened-from-OEM stacks)? I'm thinking about getting some from Factory Pro for my 636 - mainly cuz of the sound. Does anyone have any opinion? Yes. They boost top end and make midrange worse, generally. Also if you want to get the best out of them, you're going to need tuning. I wouldn't run them on anything but a dedicated trackbike. Best way to get louder induction noise is to drill holes in the airbox but it's going to gently caress with your fueling, reduce the benefits of ram air, etc.
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Oct 10, 2012 17:27
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True story, I took the intake boots off of my F4i and it sounded goddamn amazing but I lost a bunch of low end. edit: It also bogged a bit in and out of the throttle at low revs. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 19:16
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the walkin dude posted:Has anyone had Velocity Stacks on their 600 I-4 (or shortened-from-OEM stacks)? I'm thinking about getting some from Factory Pro for my 636 - mainly cuz of the sound. Does anyone have any opinion? This is a dickish question but aren't you deaf? why gently caress with the performance of the bike just for something you cant get 100% of the desired benefits from.
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Oct 10, 2012 19:54
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Loud intakes and lovely throttle response saves lives.
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Oct 10, 2012 20:06
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That's a completely valid question. I'm profoundly deaf meaning my threshold is 110 dB. I can hear my Ninja's induction noise (its pitches, rises and falls) and I'm absolutely captivated by it. My SV650's exhaust sound is quite binary compared (on-off roaring noise, which I also can hear but it's not musical like the Ninja's). My old 636 had a slip-on, which was loud as hell by itself. But my new 636 has the stock exhaust, and hearing the induction noise by itself was like a revelation for me, and my lust is telling me to focus on that area for potential modding. Someone on Kawiforums suggested that I get Velocity Stacks for even more awesome induction noise.
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Oct 10, 2012 20:12
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infernal gearbox question: I can shift into 1st, and I can shift into 2nd, and back and forth and back and forth and back and forth etc for what seems forever before that damned green N light lights up. Is this a Ducati thing, or just mine? Also, this morning I noticed that the revs drop a bit from idling in neutral idling in 1st with the held in. The bike was still cold and it only idles around 1k rpm, so the dip caused it to stumble a bit (it actually stalled first time). The clutch lever is adjusted to closest-to-the-grip position, so I'm wondering if it might be that the clutch isn't fully disengaging when the lever is pulled all the way it, or if it's just a dry clutch thing?
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Oct 10, 2012 20:54
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