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Cross-posting from the Jeep Thread - what do you guys think of this sound? I've already replaced the lifters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiM5UpBG5BQ
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Oct 8, 2012 21:16
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Did it really increase in volume or is that just the video being wonky for the first few seconds? Definitely check the exhaust; the guy who bought my brother's '94 Z28 nearly tore apart the bottom end of it until he found out it was a loose header. I'd be tempted to yank the belt off and start/run it for a very short time just to see if it's actually a belt-driven accessory making that racket. How hard is it for you to inspect the flexplate/flywheel on your Jeep? Could be something loose down there too.
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Oct 8, 2012 21:22
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Oxford Comma posted:What's a good car that I can get for about a grand, that I can take apart and gently caress with to learn how the internals of a car work? I'm going to guess a Civic probably tops this list, but thought I'd ask AI first. I'm going to go ahead and guess that a civic isn't a good choice. The honda-and-toyota tax means that a $1000 civic is going to be a really, really poor condition civic. They also don't exactly have tons of room in the engine compartment to work around. I'd suggest something like this: A $900 '96 Buick Century. It's a whale, so I bet it's easy to work on, it doesn't have massive miles, and your first project will be pretty easy: peeling open the doors to figure out what's wrong with the electric windows. Parts should be cheap, too. Here's another option. A ford ranger is going to be super useful occasionally, it's got plenty of room to work on, as an 87 I assume it's probably fuel injected rather than carbed, and you can start learning about steering components as you disassemble the front end to fix the slop in the steering. e. OR! You could get this "Mechanic special" mystery car. It might have a warped head gasket, but it also apparently runs great! What year, make, model, color, or mileage? Who knows, who cares, for $1000 this possibly destroyed or possibly pristine car can be all yours. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 21:24
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What car is in the foreground? I thought latest gen Civic at first, but it's not quite right: drat new cars looking the same.
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Oct 8, 2012 21:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did it really increase in volume or is that just the video being wonky for the first few seconds? The video is wonky for the first few seconds  It's a manual transmission, I6 4.0. Replacing the lifters was the most technical thing I've ever done on a vehicle. I need to read up on flywheels to know what I'm looking for. What's boggling me right now is that the Jeep is running perfectly. It seems like a problem this LOUD would have side effects that would be noticeable in performance. Wouldn't running the engine without the belt on be a very bad thing to do?
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Oct 8, 2012 21:33
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Yanking the belt would be a bad thing if you tried to actually drive it; you can run an engine (especially the Jeep 4.0) with no belt driven accessories at idle for a very short period of time with no problems. I did far worse to my GMC's old smallblock when the waterpump exploded, and it had no ill effects (ran it for ~1.5 miles with no water flowing in the block and all of the coolant draining out of the heads). Yank the belt, start it up and idle it for a few seconds to see if the sound is present, and shut it off. You'll know right away if the sound is there or not if it's that loud, and if it's not there anymore then you know you need to focus on the belt-driven stuff. If it is still there, then I'd look at exhaust, bottom end, and flywheel bolts. You say replacing lifters is the most technical thing you've done? That's pretty damned in-depth, honestly, and not the kind of thing most people would fess up to as "oh I've only gone this deep". Are you sure you got the valves adjusted properly?
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Oct 8, 2012 21:54
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I've been thinking about picking up a cheap, RWD sports car to wrench on the side, and have an alternative transport if I need to work on my Protege. I've been leaning towards MR2s, but I am 6'5", so size is an issue. I sat in an auto AW11 recently, and headroom and footroom were fine, but the center console stuck out so far there was no lateral room for my knees. Are the SW20s any better about this, or am I SOL on that front? I'm in Central FL, so RX7s and 240sx's are way overpriced for their condition.
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Oct 8, 2012 21:56
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So I've seen a few videos online where some jackass in a RWD sports car floors it on a straight road and somehow manages to spin out of control. I'm wondering if this sort of situation would be harder to control if it was LSD vs open diff. I'm thinking with an LSD the side getting more traction would make your vehicle try to veer more?
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Oct 8, 2012 22:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yanking the belt would be a bad thing if you tried to actually drive it; you can run an engine (especially the Jeep 4.0) with no belt driven accessories at idle for a very short period of time with no problems. I did far worse to my GMC's old smallblock when the waterpump exploded, and it had no ill effects (ran it for ~1.5 miles with no water flowing in the block and all of the coolant draining out of the heads).  IOwnCalculus posted:If it is still there, then I'd look at exhaust, bottom end, and flywheel bolts. You say replacing lifters is the most technical thing you've done? That's pretty damned in-depth, honestly, and not the kind of thing most people would fess up to as "oh I've only gone this deep". Are you sure you got the valves adjusted properly? My progression as a mechanic has been like this: Oil change x 20. Buy jeep. Oil change, diff fluid / trans fluid change, brake pads, valve cover gasket, replace about a million sensors, replace lifters and push rods. I'm having fun but also need to drive to work every day. From what I understand there is no adjustment on this engine. I torqued the rocker arms to 19 ft. lbs. and that's it. The only thing I potentially messed up while replacing the lifters was not soaking them in oil for a few hours before installing them. The guide I was using (Chilton I think) said that it was unnecessary to soak them, as they are filled within seconds of starting the engine. I already have a used manifold coming from ebay (I got it for A PENNY wtf) and if it looks good I'm going to put it on there. I was thinking about headers but $500  I'll check out the flywheel bolts. When you say bottom end you're referring to pistons mostly right? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Oct 8, 2012 |
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Oct 8, 2012 22:27
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Bottom end meaning anything in the rotating assembly, including the pistons. A noise that loud could be a failed main bearing, a failed rod bearing, or a great many other things; but the Jeep 4.0 being what it is, I'd look for that last.
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Oct 8, 2012 22:34
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A couple days ago my headlights on my car just stopped working. The brights work but only if I only back on the switch, and the weak orange lights to the side work but nothing else. I bought new fuses and headlight bulbs but it still doesn't work at all. A friend of mine who is more car savvy than I am (but not greatly so) said it might be the headlight switch. Does that seem like that would be the case? it looks like I can get the part fairly cheap online but I was hoping for a second opinion before buying the part. My car is a 2003 Dodge Stratus if that's important. If that IS likely the problem how hard is that to replace anyhow? generally the only Car care stuff I am capable of is stuff I have been shown how to do before, easy stuff like changing my brakes/oil.
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Oct 8, 2012 23:00
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Fucknag posted:I've been thinking about picking up a cheap, RWD sports car to wrench on the side, and have an alternative transport if I need to work on my Protege. I've been leaning towards MR2s, but I am 6'5", so size is an issue. I sat in an auto AW11 recently, and headroom and footroom were fine, but the center console stuck out so far there was no lateral room for my knees. Are the SW20s any better about this, or am I SOL on that front? I'm in Central FL, so RX7s and 240sx's are way overpriced for their condition. Have you ever sat in a Miata/Mx-5? I know it sounds ridiculous but a mate of mine who is 6'4" uses one as a daily driver and has no issues at all. Most of his height is in his legs as well; where the centre console is works really well for him as a knee rest.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:12
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Memento1979 posted:Have you ever sat in a Miata/Mx-5? I know it sounds ridiculous but a mate of mine who is 6'4" uses one as a daily driver and has no issues at all. Most of his height is in his legs as well; where the centre console is works really well for him as a knee rest. NA/NB is thoroughly out, I have trouble fitting my feet in the footwell and the shifter is under my knee in 1st and 2nd. NC might work, but even the earliest years are still a bit too new to be in cheap second car territory.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:14
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The jeep 4.0 has hydraulic lifters so no worries there. It could be a flywheel/flexplate, but it really doesn't sound like it. Still, give the bellhousing a listen, if it's especially loud near there, you might be onto something. It really sounds way too loud to be an exhaust leak, but I could be wrong.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:34
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Bruc posted:A couple days ago my headlights on my car just stopped working. The brights work but only if I only back on the switch, and the weak orange lights to the side work but nothing else. I bought new fuses and headlight bulbs but it still doesn't work at all. Looks like your high beam switch is part of the headlight switch, correct? In that case, I'd say yes, it probably is the switch. You'll have to remove the steering wheel (which means removing the air bag) to replace the switch. It's not terribly difficult, but it's not the easiest job either. You'll need basic tools, and you'll probably need a steering wheel removal tool (AutoZone will loan it to you). The battery absolutely needs to have been disconnected for awhile (at least 15 minutes) before you go mucking around with the air bag. Astonishing Wang posted:Cross-posting from the Jeep Thread - what do you guys think of this sound? I've already replaced the lifters. I'm going to agree with kastein, I think that's entirely too loud to be a cracked exhaust manifold. If it's quiet when you pull the belt, spin each accessory and pulley by hand - something making that kind of racket will be binding up or feel weird when you spin it. If it's still noisy with the belt off, you can pull a plug wire (one at a time). If it quiets down on 1 cylinder, then you have either a bad bearing on that cylinder or one hell of a nasty exhaust leak on that cylinder (cracked manifold or blown exhaust gasket). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Oct 9, 2012 |
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Oct 9, 2012 02:35
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Also - I'm saying that as a guy who has had multiple jeep 4.0 manifolds crack. Hell, the factory one from my 98 XJ (removed it when I put the new motor in a few months ago) had a 1/8" wide crack all the way around one of the runners where it went into the 2-to-1 collector. It wasn't nearly that loud, unless your phone mic is picking things up strangely. Loose flexplate to torque converter bolts (you don't have these, so maybe pressure plate bolts or flywheel bolts... or some other issue in the bellhousing, or something else entirely) however sounded so much like a bad bottom end on my 91 MJ that I actually threw my engine hoist, a full set of fluids and gaskets, and my spare motor into the bed before leaving for a trip to Pennsylvania, fully expecting to have to swap a motor in the breakdown lane or a rest area. One of my friends didn't believe I drove down on a motor that I thought was about to blow until I goosed the throttle, which resulted in him yelling "oh my GOD! You drove that here from Massachusetts?!" and taking a few steps back. I want it to be a manifold issue for your sake, but it just doesn't sound like one to me.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:46
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kimbo305 posted:What car is in the foreground? I thought latest gen Civic at first, but it's not quite right: Cruze? 
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Oct 9, 2012 04:18
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Geoj posted:Cruze? I dunno, looks very late-model Kia to me, like maybe the new Optima? edit: Probably a Forte or whatever it's called in wherever wacky part of the world that is.
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Oct 9, 2012 04:25
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Is there a way to test the individual cylinders if I have a coil rail and no wires? Thanks again for all of your help folks. I'm afraid I may be in over my head.
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Oct 9, 2012 04:26
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YF19pilot posted:I dunno, looks very late-model Kia to me, like maybe the new Optima? http://www.lincah.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/2010-kia-forte-side-picture.jpg It's definitely not an Optima.
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Oct 9, 2012 04:58
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Well, she done quit on me. The clattering got worse, then it felt like a thousand marbles shot through the engine compartment and it died. Seems like there'd be a trouble code for 'I just poo poo the bed.'
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Oct 9, 2012 05:00
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Astonishing Wang posted:Is there a way to test the individual cylinders if I have a coil rail and no wires? Thanks again for all of your help folks. I'm afraid I may be in over my head. Get a bolt with the same thread pitch as your spark plugs and substitute one plug at a time until you figure out which cylinder is the culprit...?
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Oct 9, 2012 05:01
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Astonishing Wang posted:Well, she done quit on me. The clattering got worse, then it felt like a thousand marbles shot through the engine compartment and it died. Seems like there'd be a trouble code for 'I just poo poo the bed.' Tough break man At least you can get a new engine dirt cheap as there is a million jeep 4.0 blocks just waiting to be picked.
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Oct 9, 2012 05:20
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My car has recently started to make a ticking/clacking sound. It is hard to pin down but it seems to be coming from the top end and is closely related to the rpm - I would say it happens possibly every 2 or 4 revolutions. It sort of reminds me of the sound the lifters make for a few seconds after starting the engine on a winter day. Am I on the right lines in thinking it is a hydraulic lifter that has finally given up the ghost? Any way I can verify this? What are the alternatives I should be looking at? If it is a lifter, do I need to fix it? I never really understood what the reason for them existing is - what is worse if one lifter is unable to fill with oil? Other than the godawful clacking, I mean. The car is an Opel Omega 1995, 2.0L 100kW, 4 cylinder.
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Oct 9, 2012 06:35
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EssOEss posted:If it is a lifter, do I need to fix it? I never really understood what the reason for them existing is - what is worse if one lifter is unable to fill with oil? Other than the godawful clacking, I mean. Hydraulic lifters ensure zero clearance between the cam and the valve, eliminating the need for lash adjustment and keeping noise down. If left in its current state you may notice slightly worse economy (as the effected valve(s) will open later and close earlier) and increased engine noise.
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Oct 9, 2012 07:38
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Being an OHC engine, it could be something besides a bad lifter too.
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Oct 9, 2012 08:18
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Astonishing Wang posted:Well, she done quit on me. The clattering got worse, then it felt like a thousand marbles shot through the engine compartment and it died. Seems like there'd be a trouble code for 'I just poo poo the bed.' You're hereby required to open up that engine and post pics in the horrible mechanical failures thread.
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Oct 9, 2012 15:17
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Astonishing Wang posted:Well, she done quit on me. The clattering got worse, then it felt like a thousand marbles shot through the engine compartment and it died. Seems like there'd be a trouble code for 'I just poo poo the bed.' that blows I dunno what 4.0 prices are like where you are, but up here I can get one for literally 100 bucks. If your cylinder head didn't get wrecked by whatever let loose inside, you can simply buy a new HG, new head bolts, throw your head on one, and put it back in.
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Oct 9, 2012 15:27
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Godholio posted:You're hereby required to open up that engine and post pics in the horrible mechanical failures thread. kastein posted:that blows Looks like you were pretty right on with the daily driving comments  There don't seem to be any on craigslist. Cheapest I see on ebay is ~$1,100. Should I be looking at junk yards or what? What are the good sources? Also, how hard is it to put in an engine? I assume I would need an engine hoist, engine stand, what else? Is it as simple as disconnecting everything, pulling it out, and putting in the new one (with my head) and cranking it up? I would love to be able to fix it myself for cheap, but buying a re-manufactured from Titan or something like that with a warranty really sounds nice. The rest of the jeep is in great shape. This sucks.
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Oct 9, 2012 16:29
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DO NOT EVER BUY A MOTOR FROM TITAN! They don't produce a reliable product, nor do they back it up when it fails (warranty or not), and they've been caught setting up multiple sockpuppet accounts on internet forums to try to clear their name. I can't say as it worked very well for them. I'd say to go with a Golen, ATK, or Jasper if you want a good drop-in motor with a warranty, they can probably even put the required 0331 head on it for you. Tools you'll need: * E12 inverse torx socket * regular SAE and metric sockets, ratchets, etc * krikit II belt tension gauge (assuming you don't have a spring loaded belt tensioner on that jeep, I forget if late model TJs had them) * engine hoist (the harbor freight one is great, one of the few things I recommend by them) * load leveler (the HF one is great, again, one of the few things...) * probably a dremel for exhaust header to downpipe or header to pre-cat bolts - though you've already had your head off to do the lifters, so they might just come right out. Parts you'll want to have on hand: * new thermostat, thermostat gasket * new water pump and gasket if your new motor doesn't come with a good one on it * new heater core water tube (screws into the water pump, the old one never comes out clean) * indian head gasket shellac - the kind in the metal can, not the brown plastic jar. * new spark plugs * new cylinder head (or your old one, if it's in good shape - check for cracks if you didn't do so when you did the lifters) * new head gasket and bolts (fel-pro for both) * oil filter, coolant, oil * distributor gasket for a 00-01 (goes under the distributorless ignition system sensor) * new oil pan and valve cover gaskets if you really want to go stir-crazy on the new motor or they're leaking when you get it (get the fel-pro one piece blue silicone and steel ones, they're way better) * new rear main seal if it's leaking on the new motor - I'm of the mindset that says not to change it unless it's leaking, because there's a good chance of nicking the crank and/or screwing up the RMS install if you've never done it before. Then you get to drop the pan again in a few thousand miles and do it over. I prefer to wait till I know it's actually leaking. * manifold gasket (same gasket is for both the intake and exhaust, you probably already know this) * any exhaust donut gaskets and/or bolts for attaching the manifolds to the pre-cats * new motor mount bushings if you so desire - do NOT buy Anchor brand, the price is great but the product is horrible. You don't need to do this, but it's so much easier when the motor's coming out for other reasons already. Basically, strap the transmission up with a large ratchet strap, unbolt all the accessories and hoses and pipes and stuff, bag all the bolts up and label them so you know where the gently caress they came from, yank engine out, put new engine in. Change oil. Removing the grille may make the job a lot easier. The last 4.0 I swapped (in commissargribb's YJ) we did without pulling the grille, but we had a 2 ton chainfall hoist hanging from a warehouse ceiling to do it with, and 6 hands and a load leveler to guide it in, so it's not really a fair comparison. I always pull the grille and radiator when I'm doing one with a regular engine hoist. You may need to remove the AC condensor and have the system evacuated if you can't find a way to carefully turn the condensor to one side and tie it to something. With practice you can do a 4.0 swap in one day, but budget 3-4 for the first one. My first 4.0 pull and install (on separate jeeps) I was just there to help/stand around and drink beer, so I got a bit of a jump on the learning curve. e: holy christ that's a lot of words 
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Oct 9, 2012 16:48
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some texas redneck posted:Looks like your high beam switch is part of the headlight switch, correct? In that case, I'd say yes, it probably is the switch. Removing the wheel is probably not necessary. Most of the Chrysler vehicles that age wrap a two-piece shroud around the column and stalks. Remove a couple screws from the underside, pop it off, and there are your stalks and connectors. Assuming that's the case, removing the wheel and airbag will leave you staring at absolutely nothing useful.
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Oct 9, 2012 16:57
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kastein posted:DO NOT EVER BUY A MOTOR FROM TITAN! They don't produce a reliable product, nor do they back it up when it fails (warranty or not), and they've been caught setting up multiple sockpuppet accounts on internet forums to try to clear their name. I can't say as it worked very well for them. I'd say to go with a Golen, ATK, or Jasper if you want a good drop-in motor with a warranty, they can probably even put the required 0331 head on it for you. wowowowowow. Thanks for all of this info! After all of this poo poo that probably went on in the bottom end of this motor it's probably not salvageable right? Wouldn't be able to just clean it out and put in new pistons, connecting rods, etc.? That's probably harder to do anyway.
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Oct 9, 2012 17:44
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Depends. If it is a conrod bearing or main, you might get away with reusing the block, put new crank/bearings/conrods/any other needed parts in it. If it was a piston skirt that let loose, the noise getting worse probably meant the piston came apart and the conrod spent some quality time with the cylinder bore, which means the block is junk now. Either way, you're probably better off with a known good 4.0 short/longblock unless prices are truly horrible where you live.
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Oct 9, 2012 17:57
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COUNTIN THE BILLIES posted:I'm thinking of changing the battery in my car. Is this an easy job or should I bring it to the mechanic? It shouldn't be hard. Unless you run into a situation like me where everything is corroded to hell and the battery terminals are thin and tear like paper. I've got some nice brass terminals on there now though. New question - My exhaust is rattling. It's only noticeable (from the driver's seat anyway) when starting the vehicle and when around a certain RPM. It happens in park so it's definitely my exhaust, this I can figure out. I haven't really had a chance to jack it up and look, so based on this info can anyone give me a good idea of what it is? Loose fastener is my guess
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Oct 9, 2012 20:40
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Loose/dented heatshield would be the most likely culprit.
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Oct 9, 2012 20:52
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My girlfriend's beater '98 Prizm has some pretty bad rust on the edges of the hood, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't perforated yet. We care almost nothing about aesthetics, but don't want to have to replace a hood if we can avoid it. Would slathering the rust spots with rust converter and then rattlecanning over them be enough to buy a couple more years? Or should we start looking to source a hood from a junkyard? Do I need to sand in addition to applying the rust convertor, or should I just sand without doing any of the rust convertor stuff?
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Oct 9, 2012 21:43
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If you don't care how it looks, why do anything?
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Oct 10, 2012 00:50
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Lowclock posted:If you don't care how it looks, why do anything? Isn't rusting holes through the hood something that will cause it to fail inspection?
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Oct 10, 2012 00:51
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doubtful, inspection here is just whether it passes OBD tests, and do all your lights/horn work
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Oct 10, 2012 02:18
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Weinertron posted:Do I need to sand in addition to applying the rust convertor, or should I just sand without doing any of the rust convertor stuff? At least hit the rust with a wire wheel/brush to remove anything loose before going over it with the rust converter. The goal is to take as much of the rust out as possible; like cancer if you don't remove all of it it will come back and spread. e: You might also check if there's a Certifit near you, their prices on body panels are fairly reasonable (as in close to what you'd pay used at the junk yard for a brand new hood.) They list a hood panel for your car but they took the prices out of their online catalog a few months ago. Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 02:30
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