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Snowdens Secret posted:What keeps a regular Sportster from turning into an XR via the race parts? From the chatting thread: I think the XR1200 has a higher spec engine and different frame as well. Not entirely sure though. When it comes to cruisers, the Diavel is where I would have thought Harley would have eventually ended up...someone finally took advantage of long wheelbase, dumped a monster engine in it, and made a stupid fast bike in a straight line. Same with the VMax.
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Oct 11, 2012 06:53
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Z3n posted:I think the XR1200 has a higher spec engine and different frame as well. Not entirely sure though. It does have a higher revving engine, with oil cooled heads and a few other changes. The frame is very close except for a couple of degrees of rake and, of course the tail section.
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Oct 11, 2012 13:01
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XR1200's got the oil cooled heads yeah (and an oil cooler), and I think it uses a hotter cam. Biggest performance increase probably comes from the intake and exhaust though.
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Oct 11, 2012 17:14
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nsaP posted:I always had a thing for XR1200s until I found out they're nearly 550 lbs if I remember correctly. No wonder at Indy the Moto3 250cc singles turn faster lap times... The nice thing about motorcycling is it isn't always about lap times. I think 550lbs is fine for a street bike with a buttload of midrange like the XR has. The XR is not super flickable but it will lean over and hold a line well enough. XB12S Lightnings are what you "XR is too heavy" guys are looking for though. Under 500lbs, similar sound and torque to an XR, oil cooled heads like the XR, proper rear suspension, only one front brake to worry about, fully-reprogrammable ECM, and around half the cost. It's an ugly duckling but you don't see much of it from the saddle.
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Oct 11, 2012 18:47
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clutchpuck posted:The nice thing about motorcycling is it isn't always about lap times. I think 550lbs is fine for a street bike with a buttload of midrange like the XR has. The XR is not super flickable but it will lean over and hold a line well enough. The oil cooled heads are XR1200 only, weirdly, since the heads are actually exposed to the air on that.
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Oct 11, 2012 21:02
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I could be wrong about the head-specific detail, but the XBs are air/oil cooled because, good god, they need to be.
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Oct 11, 2012 21:05
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clutchpuck posted:The nice thing about motorcycling is it isn't always about lap times. I think 550lbs is fine for a street bike with a buttload of midrange like the XR has. The XR is not super flickable but it will lean over and hold a line well enough. True enough, it sounds like you have me pegged. I didn't mean that it's all about lap times, it was just a comparison. It just struck me as odd how heavy it was for a naked standard, since it has 120 pounds or so on my naked 600. It was just hard for me to see where that weight was. I'm also just a little girl that likes light bikes as well.
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Oct 11, 2012 23:05
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Curb weight on paper doesn't always translate directly to riding dynamics. Try one if you can, you might like it despite its porkiness.
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Oct 11, 2012 23:28
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Snowdens Secret posted:Cruisers are inherently heavy. It's a consequence of the steel frames, dual shocks, heavy bars, chrome and cosmetics etc. instead of an aluminum backbone and plastic body. The weight does have the advantage of damping engine vibes. Buell S1 weighs 440 dry, has a steel frame, and a better isolated engine than even the newest rubber mount sportsters. Oh, and it's powered by the sportster engine.
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Oct 12, 2012 01:41
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New Exhaust flyby video, just because. http://youtu.be/gnbIkiF3EBc?hd=1
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Oct 12, 2012 20:22
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That 4runner sounded 
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Oct 12, 2012 21:29
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I've been away from CA for a while because I had gotten to the point where my zephyr 550 was causing me more pain than joy to ride. It needed a tire and I figured I'd throw it on CL for a rediculous high price and see what happened. Well it sold instantly and due to it being fall I looked around for a cheap sportster. I found several for under $2500 but in person they were beaters. The last one I looked at ended up being a sweet deal. 2002 XL 1200 with harley leather bags, qd windshield, qd sissy bar, sceaming eagle pipes, stock seat and oem touring seat. 14k miles motor has dust caked in the nooks and crannies from being parked at a woodworking shop and the front tire is original and completely bald. He wanted 3500 but I got him to take 2700. I'm starting to get all the maintenance done and wonder what you goons recommended checking. So far I've changed oil, tranny oil, put a bit of seafoam in the tank and cleaned the air filter which ended up being a k&n(score!).
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Oct 16, 2012 00:51
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There's not a whole lot else. Inspect the belt, clean it if you're anal retentive. Check your brake pad thickness. Lube your control cables, maybe, especially if the clutch one feels notchy.
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Oct 16, 2012 01:23
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Couldn't hurt to bleed the brakes or even replace the brake fluid.
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Oct 16, 2012 01:46
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Oh yeah brake fluid... Am I alone on this or do most bleed jobs end up as a flush anyway by the time it's finished? The primary chain is another thing to check but it's probably fine.
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Oct 16, 2012 01:52
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Great price! Congrats! Do the clutch adjustment (15 minute job) Check jets in carb and then plugs to make sure taxes are paid and it's tuned well.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:25
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I forgot to put that I replaced the plugs so I'll have to run it a bit and see how it goes on jetting, I can say that with the cleaner off and my hand in front of the carb my hand gets misted with gas when I crack the throttle someone was saying that means it's jetted richer. It has mid controls and everyone keeps saying I should get forwards but the ones I test drove I wasn't a fan of so I'm thinking about just cheap hiway pegs for long trips any good cheap sets I should look for? I also want to blackout everything I can and trash all the lovely live to ride 'merika trinkets. The shop I'm having do the tires said they would check all the bearings, belt ect.. when they put on the tires. They seem really nice, I called and asked how much to put on tires and they said $35f $45r I asked if they require me to buy tires there and the guy started laughing and said only ripoff shops do that, I told him that he was the first shop that didn't double the install fee if I brought them in. The weird thing is I mainly went with Harley because no area shops would touch metric bikes, then I stumble on this shop by my house that does race/dyno work on metrics that has no problem working on a harley cheap. Craigslist ad pic  What actually was there  Bonus goony cell phone photo 
my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Oct 16, 2012 |
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Oct 16, 2012 03:25
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Definitely a nice score for $2700. If it were me, I'd sell the bags and swap the bars. Sporties look goofy with bags.
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Oct 16, 2012 13:55
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Bags are so handy though. I'd get a set of easy brackets. Expensive at $125 or so but you can take the bags off/on in 2 minutes. I run them on my sporty. Get a solo seat and easy brackets and you can turn it from cruiser to around town in 5 minutes. Those bars don't look the best but they are nice if you are going to be on long trips.
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Oct 16, 2012 14:52
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I was going to swap the bars but I'm not sure what I want I thing drag bars with a riser look cool but probably won't be comfortable so I'm thinking more of a superbar with a riser, so I need to figure out a bar/riser/way to mount the speedo. I bought the bike with the intention of long distance rides so it really is geared up perfectly and I'll just take off windshield, touring seat, sissybar and bags for around town but this way I don't really have much upgrading to do besides highway pegs. I'm not even sure how to take off those bags, they are harley branded, the insides are plastic shell with a leather cover. It sounds like I'll have to unbolt them from inside the fender so I'll have to see if they are easy bracket compatible and invest the $125 or whatever.
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Oct 16, 2012 17:17
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I had bars just like that on my vstar and changed them out after a 3000 mile trip. The grip angle made me have to bend my wrists out which made my fingers numb after like 100 miles - sucked for those 500 mile days. The new ones I got placed the grip at approximately the same location - just barely lower and aft of stock - but the angle let me keep my wrists straight and it was a big improvement.
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Oct 16, 2012 17:36
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I really like the riser/bar/Speedo mount from the sportster customs. They are the ones that have the Speedo mounted behind the bars. Last I checked they weren't going for that cheap though. I wanted to buy one and have them powder coated black. I have the bars that come standard on the sportster and they aren't bad. Most of the comfort on my bike comes down to the seat. I run a Mustang deluxe for long trips and it's nice. Easy brackets should work for you. My bags have the hard plastic insides and work well.
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Oct 16, 2012 18:10
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The Sportster I picked up a monthish ago currently has V&H 2-2 Big Shot pipes as seen here. After a month of riding, they're a bit loud and I'm not super crazy about the shorty look. I'm looking at getting some V&H Blackout 2-1 as seen here. Some actual muffler action going on, as well as an optional quiet insert to play around with. Sounds great from what I could find on Youtube, and I think they look a bit better visually. A few newbie questions:
The above page for my current 2-2 exhaust mentions special mounting hardware, but the 2-1 does not. Does that mean I need to retrograde to a stock Sportster exhaust mount to install the 2-1? How should I expect this to affect performance? Reviews seem to point towards boosted torque, but that's coming off of the stock sporty pipes. What else am I missing? Never installed pipes before 
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Oct 23, 2012 14:57
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:The Sportster I picked up a monthish ago currently has V&H 2-2 Big Shot pipes as seen here. After a month of riding, they're a bit loud and I'm not super crazy about the shorty look. I'm looking at getting some V&H Blackout 2-1 as seen here. Some actual muffler action going on, as well as an optional quiet insert to play around with. Sounds great from what I could find on Youtube, and I think they look a bit better visually.  My bike went from 2-1 to a 2-2. Both exhausts had their own individual mounting plate system, hardware included: I wouldn't worry about that part at all. You'll need to remove the old, then buy & install new gaskets for the exhaust flange - head mount. The local Harley dealer had these in stock; the Screamin' Eagle™™™ ones are actually cheaper than the stock ones, and are a little bit beefier. I removed the old ones by spraying in some light petroleum-based lubricant, then carefully sticking a flathead screwdriver into them, then nudging, and they came out in one piece. A little bit of carbon buildup on the head-flange point of contact that I removed as carefully as hell with a straight razor. The 2-1 was two pieces on my Softail - from the head to the mounting plate (mostly the "2" part), then basically a slip-on muffler (the "1" part) joined very tightly with a simple clamp actuated by a bolt / nut combination. Get used to these extremely tight sorts of clearances by the way. The head studs (which are in the head (amazing), and serve to anchor the exhaust pipe's flange to the head) likely are going to be fine thread and very, very rusty, same with the nuts. I'd go very slowly here using Knock-R-Loose or whatever you'd like to use for a few minutes - tapping every once in a while on the stud - before you even attempt to get these nuts out. If you start to need muscle, seriously consider spraying more penetrant and giving it some time and more taps with a deadblow or whatever. To remove and replace these nuts (you WILL go to your local Ace Hardware and buy new nuts) is the biggest challenge you have, because if you have lovely sockets the tool itself will be too thick to fit between the nut and the recesses in the heads, and between the nut and the exhaust pipe (you run into this on performance headers on Chevy small blocks all the time). Also, you'll be using socket extensions and what-not when you go to affix the new nuts + flange + pipes to the heads, which will rob you of any feel when threading, leaving you with a very real possibility of either galling the nut, or the stud, or just plain old cross-threading the whole thing which of course is no fun, because then it's take a motorcycle to a mechanic time for them to extract and replace the studs. When I threaded these nuts, I did it by hand to avoid this possibility. It took me a good three hours or more and a LOT of patience to get this right... you have to remember that the weight of the pipes is, to a certain extent, just sitting there while you try to thread these nuts in a very, very tight space. So you nudge the pipe and the pipe moves the whole thing and the nut falls out of the tips of your fingers. OH and a little magnet grabber. That's going to come in handy when you lose a nut and it drops into some unknown crevice you'd think would never exist on something as porous as a motorcycle. Other than that, absolutely do NOT tighten anything down before anything else; you'll want to get stuff a little bit tight here, then there, then step back and look at the alignment of the pipes and what not, then adjust a bit and tighten a bit more, then step back again, then re-tighten. Either use some reversible LocTite, or the penetrating kind (purple I think) after you get everything where you want it to go, OR ride a few days then go back and re-tighten everything, and repeat maybe a couple weeks later. It's really super-easy, but still harder than you feel like it should be; at least that was my experience. Performance-wise, you'll probably notice a difference in performance, but if anything you'll notice and be grateful for the change of the sound of the bike more.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:05
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Hey, I really appreciate you typing that up. Fantastic tips. I'll make sure I have all my sockets/threadlube/loctite lined up beforehand so I have to make minimal frantic trips to various hardware stores. I'll also post back here whenever I get it done. I've still got most of my Dianese jacket on a credit card and was going to strictly abstain from new parts until that's paid off but but but I did get it on clearance and saved a lot and...
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Oct 25, 2012 02:04
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You will need the O2 sensor whether you take it off old pipes or get a new one. The 2-1 should give you noticeably more mid range torque. Basically better everywhere and equal at WOT to your current pipes. You will probably want to put new plugs in and then check them after you ride with the new pipes for a bit. You may need to change jet size or even needle type/shim level if its running rich or lean.
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Oct 25, 2012 02:08
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So, I test rode a Sportster 72 yesterday. The whole Harley thing I always made fun of? It makes sense now. Oh god what did I do. Is 13.9 with stage one mods a bad deal?
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Nov 3, 2012 00:36
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iwentdoodie posted:So, I test rode a Sportster 72 yesterday. The whole Harley thing I always made fun of? It makes sense now. Oh god what did I do. I haven't priced them but I'd buy one without the "stage one mods" and do it yourself afterwards. You'll most likely be money ahead and buy better aftermarket parts than they've used. Edit: checked some of the forums and 13.9 seems VERY high. Where do you live? Looked like guys were getting them stock for <10k. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Nov 3, 2012 |
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Nov 3, 2012 00:55
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iwentdoodie posted:So, I test rode a Sportster 72 yesterday. The whole Harley thing I always made fun of? It makes sense now. Oh god what did I do. I'd say that is high. I'd shop around for sure. Neighbor came home with one mid-summer and paid a bit over 10k with a few mods like new bars, bags etc.
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Nov 3, 2012 01:09
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Scrapez posted:I haven't priced them but I'd buy one without the "stage one mods" and do it yourself afterwards. I live in Guam, so there is no shopping around. Captive markets are a bitch. The reseller for the military wants 14.6 for a bone stock one, so that dealer price is actually cheap. Without the air cleaner, ecu and baffle change they'll do 13 even. Dammit, why did that bike have to be so fun?
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Nov 3, 2012 05:28
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iwentdoodie posted:So, I test rode a Sportster 72 yesterday. The whole Harley thing I always made fun of? It makes sense now. Oh god what did I do. Please don't buy one with that metal flake paint, get one more like this:  Except without the skull on the transmission, oh god Harley Davidson you can make some nice bikes but why must you always tack this gaudy crap on them...
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Nov 3, 2012 08:06
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Pham Nuwen posted:Please don't buy one with that metal flake paint, get one more like this: I'd prefer a gas tank that holds more than a pint of gas but besides that that's a drat fine looking motorcycle
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Nov 3, 2012 13:21
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As winter descends, the Harley thread grows quiet... 
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Nov 10, 2012 08:27
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Schlieren posted:As winter descends, the Harley thread grows quiet... Contrarily, I just bought my first bike:  2011 Street Bob. Got her used with 2,000 miles.
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Nov 11, 2012 17:18
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Schlieren posted:As winter descends, the Harley thread grows quiet... It was 31 degrees F this morning as I left for work on my DRZ. The only other bike I saw on the way was a Harley oddly enough. With no helmet. Holy gently caress. I had my bar mitts on, warm gloves, a warm jacket, a balaclava, full face helmet, etc and I was still freezing.
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Nov 12, 2012 14:59
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It was 31 degrees F this morning as I left for work on my DRZ. The only other bike I saw on the way was a Harley oddly enough. Recently I have seen Harley drivers go around in shorts, half helmets and no gloves. I live in NH 
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Nov 12, 2012 15:17
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Bon Mot posted:Contrarily, I just bought my first bike: Beautiful. How do you like the pipes?
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Nov 12, 2012 19:10
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ElMaligno posted:Recently I have seen Harley drivers go around in shorts, half helmets and no gloves. I found a video of one of those guys getting off his bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5gGV1WB-xg&t=100s
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Nov 12, 2012 21:57
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Braincloud posted:Beautiful. How do you like the pipes? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjGk89Pf-vE
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Nov 13, 2012 02:20
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I hope some of you own this shirt, it's fantastic.
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Nov 25, 2012 03:34
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